How to attach stove pipe to an old Lopi insert if there is no collar?

[redrig]

Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?

 

[robertk]

Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?

Look at the top most piece in my photo. The 6" stainless flue fits inside of the top ring. I did it that way so if anything drops down out of the flue it will fall into the fire box. When I run a brush down from the top of the stainless liner when cleaning,I end up with a small pile of creosote in the fire box.

I hope this answers your question

 

[dieselscout80]

Robert, is your stainless flue just setting in there or did you screw it to the adapter your son built?

 

[redrig]

Look at the top most piece in my photo. The 6" stainless flue fits inside of the top ring. I did it that way so if anything drops down out of the flue it will fall into the fire box. When I run a brush down from the top of the stainless liner when cleaning,I end up with a small pile of creosote in the fire box.

I hope this answers your question

Gotcha, thanks for the explanation.

It sounds like then you are not using the appliance adapter and your top most ring is probably in the neighborhood of 6.25 ID to allow the stainless liner to fit inside of it.

 

[robertk]

Gotcha, thanks for the explanation.

It sounds like then you are not using the appliance adapter and your top most ring is probably in the neighborhood of 6.25 ID to allow the stainless liner to fit inside of it.

I'm not sure what the appliance adapter is.
The reasons I had to make my own adapter was lack of room above the stove and the angle which the stainless liner connected to the top of the stove. I think the diameter of the top piece is 6.75 inches to allow for the outside diameter of the flue and the angle which it entered the stove adapter. I'll try and take a photo of it tonight (before the Giants game) if no one has a fire lit when I get home.

 

[redrig]

I'm not sure what the appliance adapter is.
The reasons I had to make my own adapter was lack of room above the stove and the angle which the stainless liner connected to the top of the stove. I think the diameter of the top piece is 6.75 inches to allow for the outside diameter of the flue and the angle which it entered the stove adapter. I'll try and take a photo of it tonight (before the Giants game) if no one has a fire lit when I get home.

^^^^ That is the appliance connector thing I was referring to. It comes with most liner kits and new stoves connect up with these, that is how you make the connection from liner to stove.

I just didnt know if you used one to connect up to your homemade adapter or not. But is sounds like you did not use one , you went straight from liner to your homemade adapter.

no need to take any additional pics, just curious on how you made your connection.

I apprecaiate your help.

 

[FromHollywood]

Anybody know where I could find a simple 8" exhaust collar that I could have welded onto my insert? I was planning on building a fancier thing but I think just a simple round collar would be fine. I'd like it to be thick metal like the stove itself.

I looked at buying a short length of 8" round stainless pipe. There is a place called OnlineMetals but their 8" pipe has an inner diameter of 8.329" which, I think, is too big for standard 8" stove pipe.

 

[FromHollywood]

Thanks for the clarification RobertK, that is great work you and your son did. I am basically doing the exact thing except mine will be square at the bottom.

I do not have access to a roller to make one like that but today I found a solution online, I found a metal mart that sells all types of pipe by the inch, and they have one that should work perfect.

Redrig, Can you share the name of the metal mart where you found the pipe by the inch? I found a place called OnlineMetals but their 8" stainless pipe has an inner diameter of 8.329" which is too large for 8" stove pipe.

 

[Woody Stover]

Just got this for my buck 91.
(broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/partsstore/product.php?productid=264&cat=137&page=1)

(broken image removed)

 

[Woody Stover]

I took a couple of measurements on the Buck. Flue outlet is right at 8" across. The L-bolts should be able to grab anything 1.75" or less below the top of the opening.
I have flex at the bottom of the rigid liner. I got a 30* elbow, and that will go into the flue collar. The elbow doesn't fit all the way down to the ledge on the inside of the collar, but it extends a decent amount past the screw holes in the collar...

 

[FromHollywood]

I took a couple of measurements on the Buck. Flue outlet is right at 8" across. The L-bolts should be able to grab anything 1.75" or less below the top of the opening.
I have flex at the bottom of the rigid liner. I got a 30* elbow, and that will go into the flue collar. The elbow doesn't fit all the way down to the ledge on the inside of the collar, but it extends a decent amount past the screw holes in the collar...

Woody, This is EXACTLY what I've been hoping to find. Thank you so much for posting this. The only issue with it is that the Lopi has a draft rod (see my first photo) so I'd have to get someone to cut a notch out of this. But, thats probably cheaper than having the entire thing fabricated from scratch. Thanks!

 

[Woody Stover]

The only issue with it is that the Lopi has a draft rod (see my first photo) so I'd have to get someone to cut a notch out of this. But, thats probably cheaper than having the entire thing fabricated from scratch.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the rod... Hopefully you can find a way to make it work.

 

[redrig]

here is the metal place I was referring to above, they have some that are pretty thick walled tubing and sell it by the inch.

there is an 8 and 8.25 ID on this page below that may work for you. at least gets you closer than 8.4 ID

http://www.speedymetals.com/s-204-round-tube.aspx?pagenum=11

What do you need to fabricate ? cant you just take the pipe and weld to the top of your insert ?
with the notch taken out of course.

 

[FromHollywood]

Oh yeah, I forgot about the rod... Hopefully you can find a way to make it work.

Woody, It looks like that Buck collar has a wider diameter at the bottom than at the top. The hole on the top of my insert is exactly 8" diameter. What is the inner diameter of the bottom of that Buck collar? I'm hoping the bottom is a little wider so it will fully sit on-top of the stove itself and then taper down to 8" inner diameter to accept the stove pipe.

 

[redrig]

Hollywood,

I saw this on ebay, might work for you. if it was 6" I would have bought it long ago.

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fireplace-Cast-Iron-Chimney-Direct-Connect-Adaptor-/280959816765?pt=US_Fireplaces&hash=item416a82943d#ht_120wt_1172)

Its just a matter of borrowing a grinder from Flanders and making the notch, and you should be all set

 

[FromHollywood]

here is the metal place I was referring to above, they have some that are pretty thick walled tubing and sell it by the inch.

there is an 8 and 8.25 ID on this page below that may work for you. at least gets you closer than 8.4 ID

http://www.speedymetals.com/s-204-round-tube.aspx?pagenum=11

What do you need to fabricate ? cant you just take the pipe and weld to the top of your insert ?
with the notch taken out of course.

Redrig, Are you sure that pipe from Speedy is correct for wood stove heat? I was told by a stove manufacturer that the metal needs to be 304 or 316 but I'm not sure exactly what those designations mean----maybe he was just talking about the liner. Apparently, some metals warp over time with the high heat.

What I meant by fabricate is to have someone take a flat piece of metal and roll it to that round shape----like the previous poster did who made that fancy attachment for his insert. I don't have the resources to do that. So, buying a short piece of 8" pipe sounds like the way to go.

 

[Woody Stover]

Woody, It looks like that Buck collar has a wider diameter at the bottom than at the top. The hole on the top of my insert is exactly 8" diameter. What is the inner diameter of the bottom of that Buck collar? I'm hoping the bottom is a little wider so it will fully sit on-top of the stove itself and then taper down to 8" inner diameter to accept the stove pipe.

Yeah, the outlet in the Buck 91 is also exactly 8". As you can see in the pic in my first post, there's a step-down on the bottom of the collar where the gasket sits. The OD of the stepped-down portion is 7-7/8" so that it drops into the outlet slightly, with a little room for movement side to side. The wider part above the step-down is 8-5/8" so it sits on top of the outlet and the gasket is compressed to the top of the stove.

Actually, the top of the collar tapers narrower on the inside as you go down. It is 8-1/8" at the top to accept the pipe, but tapers smaller to provide a tighter gap between the collar and the pipe. The elbow that will go into the collar on my install is crimped so it will drop in further than a plain-end pipe would. As I said earlier, the elbow doesn't drop all the way down to the shelf inside the collar but it goes in far enough to get below the screw holes by a decent amount. You can see the marks that the crimped elbow left when I dry-fitted it.

(broken image removed)

 

[redrig]

Redrig, Are you sure that pipe from Speedy is correct for wood stove heat? I was told by a stove manufacturer that the metal needs to be 304 or 316 but I'm not sure exactly what those designations mean----maybe he was just talking about the liner. Apparently, some metals warp over time with the high heat.

What I meant by fabricate is to have someone take a flat piece of metal and roll it to that round shape----like the previous poster did who made that fancy attachment for his insert. I don't have the resources to do that. So, buying a short piece of 8" pipe sounds like the way to go.

well that link I sent was for steel products, they have it in other types of metals, but I would assume 1/4 steel will work considering that is what your stove is made of probably, that should be more than enough.

I asked the same question in another thread and Begreen stated the 24 gauge is more than sufficient.

the 316 SS recommendation is probably for your liner.

did you check out that Ebay link ?

 

[FromHollywood]

well that link I sent was for steel products, they have it in other types of metals, but I would assume 1/4 steel will work considering that is what your stove is made of probably, that should be more than enough.

I asked the same question in another thread and Begreen stated the 24 gauge is more than sufficient.

the 316 SS recommendation is probably for your liner.

did you check out that Ebay link ?

I just checked your ebay link. That looks like it would work too though I'm not sure how much I'd have to cut out because of that draft rod. Too bad that Lopi didn't put that rod lower down so it wouldn't interfere with attaching anything. What really surprises me is that Lopi doesn't seem to have any adapter for their older inserts. Maybe they do but the dealers I've talked to don't know of any. I talked to one technical person at Lopi but he didn't know of anything either.

I think either the Buck product that Woody Stover has or just a short piece of iron pipe that has an inner diameter around 8-1/4" is the best way to go.

I will post a photo of what I end up with. Thanks

 

[Woody Stover]

short piece of iron pipe that has an inner diameter around 8-1/4"

That's gonna leave a big gap to take care of, and a big air leak if whatever you fill the gap with falls out...

 

[FromHollywood]

That's gonna leave a big gap to take care of, and a big air leak if whatever you fill the gap with falls out...

Woody, Thanks for taking those measurements for me of your Buck attachment. Your inner diameter is 8-1/8" where the stove pipe goes into. I haven't seen a piece of pipe that has exactly that inner diameter. Maybe it's best to go with that Buck adapter that you have since it was made for attaching to stove piping. If those bolts work on my Lopi insert, then I don't have to worry about hiring someone to weld anything. Based on what you said, it looks like those bolts will attach to my insert. I have 1-1/2" lip below the 8" opening on my insert (see my earlier photo) and you said that the bolts would grab anything less than 1.75" so they should work. I'm going to order it tomorrow. Thanks for your help Woody and Redrig.

 

[Woody Stover]

I wonder if it is possible to drill a hole through the cast iron for the rod? Not sure if you can drill that stuff without cracking it or some other problem...
You would naturally want a hole only big enough to allow the rod to move freely but small enough to minimize air intake into the flue...

Also, what's that in your second pic, post #39?

 

[Woody Stover]

Your inner diameter is 8-1/8" where the stove pipe goes into. I haven't seen a piece of pipe that has exactly that inner diameter.

Yeah, but as I mentioned, it's only 8-1/8 at the top, and it tapers smaller as you go down i.e. the further you push the pipe into the collar, the tighter the fit gets.

 

[David Tackett]

I just bought a collar like this and welded it on.

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-Stove-8-inch-Stove-Pipe-Weld-Steel-Collar-for-Wood-stove-Building-/200847211191?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D3454695126501548177%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D200847211191%26)

 

[scott44107401]

Robertk, did you use an appliance adapter ? or did you just run the liner over the top of your flue ?

does anyone know of a retangular adapter? Its on an old buck stove that measures 3 1/2 wide x 14 long. trying to connect flue to stove..