How should I attack these felled trunks?

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You'd need a big peavey if you had to roll stuff like that around all the time. Nice one.


I broke the hook on it once and had to reinforce the weld, but works great now.
 
OP here. Thanks for all the advice. I'm feeling much more confident that I can get this done. Not sure if you can see, but in the first photo the trunk all the way back is looking very well balanced on a log with both ends off the ground. I should be able to attack from both ends without too much trouble. The first two have some air underneath, so I'm inclined to try the bottom up approach. I really don't want to pinch the bar. I only have metal wedges and would hate to hit one with the chain. Looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend.
 
Yes, don't use a metal wedge if you like your chain. You can always use a piece of wood if you need a wedge in a pinch. You probably won't need to look far to find one.
 
Have you gone and burned all the trees?


I know what you mean. There are no trees here in this part of Wyoming it is just grass land. I scrounge all my wood from town or go to the mountains.
 
You do realize that sooner or later some of the bucking you do on those logs is going to be cutting from the top down.
All you need is one plastic wedge and do not worry about pinching the bar.
 
I know what you mean. There are no trees here in this part of Wyoming it is just grass land. I scrounge all my wood from town or go to the mountains.

How did you get those rounds home? Figured they were on the property somewhere. I split large rounds on site, which is why I don't end up taking too many large rounds by myself.
 
You do realize that sooner or later some of the bucking you do on those logs is going to be cutting from the top down.
All you need is one plastic wedge and do not worry about pinching the bar.

I used a plastic wedge while bucking for the first time the other day. It's a pleasure. No staring at the kerf, just start the cut, bang in the wedge and finish. No worries, no kickback, no problems. Done it both ways and I'm liking the wedge.
 
I used a plastic wedge while bucking for the first time the other day. It's a pleasure. No staring at the kerf, just start the cut, bang in the wedge and finish. No worries, no kickback, no problems. Done it both ways and I'm liking the wedge.

Don't even start believing that wedge will stop/prevent a kickback. I have started using them for felling but see no use for them for bucking. If I need to wedge to buck I am not looking at the log right.
 
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I cut those and then rolled them into my trailer which has a ramp. I am 63 so it takes all I have to get them in there but I manage.
This was taken in town at my brother in laws place, I live about 30 miles out of town.
That round is about 40" across.

[Hearth.com] How should I attack these felled trunks?
 
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I do not advocate that a wedge will stop kick back but it will prevent the bar from being pinched.
 
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Don't even start believing that wedge will stop/prevent a kickback. I have started using them for felling but see no use for them for bucking. If I need to wedge a buck I am not looking at the log right.
Have it your way but as far as I'm concerned for $4 bucks the added safety and convenience when needed is worth it. Nobody said anything about absolutes or cutting w/ the saw in one hand and a beer in the other but the wedge does what it's supposed to.

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Yep even professional loggers use wedges when bucking large logs. Good videos with good safety tips. Thanks for sharing those jatoxico.
 
Excellent example of how to drive a chain and bar into the dirt.

Do it however it feels good for you. Stay safe.
 
I find a wedge to be useful to me at least when bucking up log loads. Its not that I just bang it in and run the cut into the dirt, but occasionally you get odd shaped logs that bend, etc and cant easily be cut 3/4, rolled, then cut 1/4. In these cases its nice to have a wedge to keep the kerf open while you finish the rest of the cut.

Is it possible to buck all your wood without a wedge? Sure. But they're useful to have around. I buck and haul all of my wood without a peavy/cant hook/round grabbers, but that doesn't mean that they're not useful and that others wont find them to be a help.
 
I too use a wedge when doing log loads in the back yard. There are often a few stems like the OP that cannot be rolled, even when up on stringers. The wedge is a good trick to have in your bag. Not for every cut but when you need to it works.
 
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Dig under that spot that has some light under it. Then make the first cut up through the log. Then you have two pieces that are a lot easier to flop over.
+1000 to this. Any time you can make the log lighter, it will be a lot easier to roll over.

But first, I would cut from top down and keep a very close eye on the kerf. Any movement, you get that saw out fast. You can do this without pinching the saw if you pay close attention to it. Then go about the under cutting. It is simple and it works.

In principle you are absolutely right. If done correctly, there is no need for wedges. But working by yourself, and especially new to working with wood this big, I HIGHLY recommend a felling wedge. You get your cut started and insert it so that the saw cannot be pinched.

I have been at this for a while, and I have worked with more than decent sized firewood. No matter how careful you are, it is easy to get a saw pinched. Sometimes those logs do something you didn't anticipate.



With the right peavey you can roll those logs. This is one I made just for large logs.
But your trees are nice and round.......his have large limbs sticking out. Those will be difficult to roll over, even with help.
 
I really don't want to pinch the bar. I only have metal wedges and would hate to hit one with the chain.
OP, you are correct.

What you are looking for are called "felling wedges" and they are plastic. If you hit one with the bar the chain will simply take a little of the wedge off. You try not to hit them, but it happens <>
 
We'll smokedragon they do not always come round I just cut the branches off to make them round so I can then roll them. But good point.
 
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In principle you are absolutely right. If done correctly, there is no need for wedges. But working by yourself, and especially new to working with wood this big, I HIGHLY recommend a felling wedge. You get your cut started and insert it so that the saw cannot be pinched.

+1 to the OP, bet you find them useful.
 
If you guys take a good look at the first log you might see that you can probably put a 4x4 under the middle and then roll it with a peavey from the butt end 1/4 or so turn clockwise. If there are no knobs on that side it looks like you will get the top half suspended clear up off the ground and free cuts for the top half of the log. That is what I always go for. No digging or wedges or under cutting to debate if you can get that top free and clear. Get rid of that weight and you will wind up with a mangeable lower trunk where you can cut your rounds till just before pinch and roll to finish.
 
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