Help with my insanely hot Regency 2450

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corona5k1635

New Member
Dec 31, 2023
39
Eastern PA
Hi all, looking for some help!

My Regency 2450 insert (1 yr old, bought & installed from a Dealer) has always run hot...too hot. Last winter, as a brand new stove, the door could not get a good seal. It could not pass the "dollar bill test." After many attempts to adjust it, the Dealer made good on the warranty and replaced the entire unit and re-installed. The new one sealed adquately but was still running too hot. Stove Top Temps flew into 700s and 800s even when turning the primary air 100% shut within 15 minutes from a cold start. Then I completely blocked the little air boost at the front just beneath the door on the inside of the firebox. Used heavy duty aluminum foil. That, in combination with the techniques described on this forum (larger splits, packed very tightly, coals raked to the front on hot reloads, top-down method for cold-starts) kept the STT between 650 and 850 at worst. Secondary air tubes always glowing red hot. I'd gotten used to that.

But yesterday I had a real scare. I use an IR thermometer and track the temperature "STT" (top of the firebox, within 1/2" of the flue collar is the hottest so that is what I use) and "G" which is the Glass. Front and center. The fire went crazy and the stove top began to glow a dark red (not the entire top, just the part within 1" of the flue collar.) I try to turn the air 100% down ASAP. I've watching each light off like a hawk and turning it down as quickly as I feel like I can without losing the flames altogether. Here is my data:

2/6
3:04 Filled box on big bed of hot coals. Originally, the coals were raked to the front but then loading wood was going to be all tilted and not fit well. So, distributed the coals all over the bottom and loaded on them.
3:08 Door shut & latched STT 260 G 345
3:14 STT 470 G 500 Air down to 20%
3:15 Air back up to 100% b/c all the flames died.
3:17 Back to full flaring. Air down to 50%
3:18 STT & G 550
3:20 Air to 35% STT 650 G 580
3:25 Air opened to 100% again because flames died out, then almost immediately shut.
3:26 STT 730 G 577. Air remains shut, should be stable now
3:44 STT 980 G 787 AHHHHHHHH (Stove top glowing red near flue collar)
3:55 STT 980 G 770
4:23 STT 820 G 750
That was very scary. Loaded full onto a full hot bed of coals and there were several small splits (like 1-2" thick) at the top so maybe that is why it got up to 980??
4:42 STT 780 G 750
6:45 STT 515 G 644 Room 75 Outside 36

OK so I blamed myself since I loaded on a full bed of coals. I figure that meant too much wood caught at once and too much off-gassing. Shame on me I figured. But then, it happened again today from a cold-start. (For cold-starts I've been using the method outlined by @begreen on the thread "Starting a Fire and Running an EPA stove" like a cookbook recipe and it has been working amazingly...until just recently.) As a result of today's fiasco, I feel like it is completely unsafe to run the stove. Here is the data for today (still burning, still have visible flame at 10:35pm..)


2/7
5:14 lit, stuffed full box (wood tetris style, but with gaps for sure)
5:16 Door shut & latch
5:24 Air reduced to 30%
5:33 STT 535 G 309 Air shut.
5:40 Fan on high
5:41 STT 870 G 500
5:46 STT 920 G 645 !!!!!!!!!!!! (Stove top glowing red near flue collar)
5:50 STT 917 G 665
6:00 STT 890 G 684
6:10 STT 870 G 750
6:22 STT 870 G 806
6:45 STT 815 G 860
7:00 STT 690 G 750
7:43 STT 603 G 680. Air opened to 10%
8:21 STT 550 G 675
10:15 STT 378 G 500

I have data for every fire going back a whole month just like this and it never went above 850 STT until just today, yesterday (and 2 days ago it also hit 890) That's three days in a row and I feel like I am burning dangerously hot and have tremendous anxiety over this. Just to be clear, every time use the stove I am completely filling the box with wood. Stuffing it like the Turkey on thanksgiving. Because that is what I'm supposed to do. What has changed? Well, over the last week, I finished my previous cord of mixed hardwood where each split was pretty big, 6-8" size thick. Now, I'm burning smallish splits of Ash which had been split and stacked as smallish splits for about one year. Some pieces are just 8-10" long so I'm using tetris skills to put things in E-W and also mainly N-S orientation. Whatever works to just fill the box as tight as possible. But it is not super tight...plenty of little air pockets throughout the pieces.

Do you guys think its possible that my stove is over-firing because of the different wood species and size of the splits?? Is that even possible??
 
Overfire is normally caused by excessive draft. How tall is your chimney from the top of the stove to the cap? Smaller splits will definitely burn hotter as well.
 
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Sounds like you are reloading on an excessive amount of coals. Also looks like you may have time to try reducing the coal pile first. Possibly?
Have you tried tossing a single split on your big coal pile and running the air control wide open until the stove is cooling? This will really reduce your excessive coaling issue. Repeat the single split trick as necessary.
Excessive coaling is a problem in colder weather for many. Problematic on reloads as it causes super-fast off gassing of the fresh load leading to super high temps.
This method is worth a try! You will be utilizing the coal pile for nice heat as well while burning it down. Good luck.
 
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Sounds like you are reloading on an excessive amount of coals. Also looks like you may have time to try reducing the coal pile first. Possibly?
Have you tried tossing a single split on your big coal pile and running the air control wide open until the stove is cooling? This will really reduce your excessive coaling issue. Repeat the single split trick as necessary.
Excessive coaling is a problem in colder weather for many. Problematic on reloads as it causes super-fast off gassing of the fresh load leading to super high temps.
This method is worth a try! You will be utilizing the coal pile for nice heat as well while burning it down. Good luck.
Thanks for the tip, agree 100%. I think that will solve the issue I had on the hot reload.

But I'm still in trouble since it happened on the second day, with the top-down method from a cold-start.
 
You need a damper. Glowing is never good. Check again for leaks.
 
You mean, I should put in a key damper in the flue liner itself? Since it’s an insert and it’s all blocked by the face plate I suppose this means taking the whole unit out and putting it right above the flu collar? There’s very little space before is blocked off by the chimney. Is it OK to put it that low in the flue?
 
It's tough but not impossible.
Detailed thread by davidmsem someplace here.
 
Dealer wants me to change the gasket. Looks like I’m doing that first. I don’t think it’s gonna work. There is a section of the door that when a dollar bill is put there I can pull it out relatively easily. There is some resistance, but not much. Whereas, the rest of the spots around the door I could not get that dollar bill out at all or it would rip. So maybe, maybe that means the seal is not adequate?
 
Damper can be done with only removing the face plate insert can stay in place) . Drill the appliance adapter and you can put the damper plate in through the stove. thread the damper handle through the plate from the outside. Just get a long 1/4” drill bit. I needed washers next to the liner as the jagged hole edges were catching the damper plate as it rotated.

Making a connection through the faceplate takes some fabrication. Welder extra 1/4 rod/bolt and maybe a universal u joint.
 
Dealer wants me to change the gasket. Looks like I’m doing that first. I don’t think it’s gonna work. There is a section of the door that when a dollar bill is put there I can pull it out relatively easily. There is some resistance, but not much. Whereas, the rest of the spots around the door I could not get that dollar bill out at all or it would rip. So maybe, maybe that means the seal is not adequate?
If there is some resistance, I think it's good.
 
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Sometimes this issue can be the wood, the way it is loaded, and how the air control is operated. Thicker splits will burn slower, especially if they are packed tightly. Also, the air should be turned down as quickly as possible without snuffing out the flame. This slows down the offgassing of the wood.
 
I spent some good time looking for air leaks. With just a 17 ft flue it just doesn't make sense to me that it could be the draft. So should be air leak. I took out the blower from the base and looked all over with a flashlight. Nothing to see. Then spent a nice bit a time trying to adjust the door to make it seal more tightly. Took out a couple of washers and then when I shut the thing I couldn't get it open again. Had to take it easy since I knew if I torqued it enough I'd snap the door handle clean off... ended up getting it open and then put the set-up just right back to the way it was. The door gasket is just one year old and very pliable. I went to the spot (about a 2" long section) at the top of the door that is the weakest on the dollar bill test and smooshed it hard with my fingers. Compressed it. Then shut the door and there was a visible gap where I could easily slide a screwdriver in behind the glass. Then I "un-smooshed" it by pulling/pushing on it a bit to close that gap.

I've never heard of anyone else having this issue. Is it a door issue? My model Regency is the Hampton so that means cast-iron door. I am starting to wonder if that was a bad decision. The 100% steel all around 2450 may just work better when it comes to the door sealing...

My dealer may help me install a damper. But for now, he wants me to go after the gasket, so I need to do that
 
Have you put a straight edge along both the door and the stove body to see if both are flat?

I do think a gasket that you fluff up to not have a gap is too loose.
Maybe they stretched it too much when "glueing" it down upon initial installation.
 
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I spent some good time looking for air leaks. With just a 17 ft flue it just doesn't make sense to me that it could be the draft. So should be air leak. I took out the blower from the base and looked all over with a flashlight. Nothing to see. Then spent a nice bit a time trying to adjust the door to make it seal more tightly. Took out a couple of washers and then when I shut the thing I couldn't get it open again. Had to take it easy since I knew if I torqued it enough I'd snap the door handle clean off... ended up getting it open and then put the set-up just right back to the way it was. The door gasket is just one year old and very pliable. I went to the spot (about a 2" long section) at the top of the door that is the weakest on the dollar bill test and smooshed it hard with my fingers. Compressed it. Then shut the door and there was a visible gap where I could easily slide a screwdriver in behind the glass. Then I "un-smooshed" it by pulling/pushing on it a bit to close that gap.

I've never heard of anyone else having this issue. Is it a door issue? My model Regency is the Hampton so that means cast-iron door. I am starting to wonder if that was a bad decision. The 100% steel all around 2450 may just work better when it comes to the door sealing...

My dealer may help me install a damper. But for now, he wants me to go after the gasket, so I need to do that
The steel 2450 has a cast door as well. And no it doesn't make sense that you would be over drafting that much with 17' i would adjust the door latch to start
 
Oh, thanks for that clarification @bholler , I just thought based on how it looked that the 2450 had a steel door. Anyway, tried a lot of different washer combinations (take one out, etc.) and "slide it up, slide it down" combinations for the door latch. I think I've got that as tight as I can get it. I did wonder if, when they put the gasket on, perhaps they just threw it on there and yeah, stretched it too much like @stoveliker said. I think when I do the new gasket I'll try to keep it very thick all around...then I imagine I'll have to adjust the door latch again anyhow given the new thickness of the gasket. I am definitely a bit concerned that I could so easily create that gap
 
Oh, thanks for that clarification @bholler , I just thought based on how it looked that the 2450 had a steel door. Anyway, tried a lot of different washer combinations (take one out, etc.) and "slide it up, slide it down" combinations for the door latch. I think I've got that as tight as I can get it. I did wonder if, when they put the gasket on, perhaps they just threw it on there and yeah, stretched it too much like @stoveliker said. I think when I do the new gasket I'll try to keep it very thick all around...then I imagine I'll have to adjust the door latch again anyhow given the new thickness of the gasket. I am definitely a bit concerned that I could so easily create that gap
It's possible but I have never had a regency with bad gasket from the factory. I'm assuming you checked that the baffle is positioned correctly right?
 
It's possible but I have never had a regency with bad gasket from the factory. I'm assuming you checked that the baffle is positioned correctly right?
Ah, for some more context... last year I had the same issue with the lack of tight seal on the door. The unit was burning through wood too quickly and I couldn't fill the whole box 100% with splits or it would most certainly have overfired. The dealer sent the technicians to help. Their first strategy was to adjust the door latch. Once that didn't work, they came back and replaced the gasket. Once that didn't work, they tried a different door altogether. Once that didn't work, they replaced the whole body of the stove under warranty.

but, if I'm not mistaken...they kept the original door... which would mean it could be the gasket that they installed, not Regency

I will check with a straight-edge if things are ...straight. Thanks for that idea @stoveliker I didn't think of that

The baffles, yes, they are set correctly.
 
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Update: Last night I put on a new gasket, used the OEM from my Regency dealer. Putting that on was a new experience. Scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape... but anyway got done eventually. I dry fit the gasket on the door and set it up to be as thick as possible. Didn't even need to cut off any excess length as a result. Put the door back on and couldn't shut it, which I was kind of hoping for, trying to get that seal good and tight. So I put 4 extra washers into the door latch adjustment (2 on top, 2 on bottom; 4 total) and then it could shut very tightly. I could feel the compression of the gasket, which was good. Immediately did the "dollar bill" test and my goodness, is this the way it's supposed to feel? Never had a seal so tight. That dollar bill could not budge. This was very encouraging. I now have a hope that perhaps, perhaps, the air leak(s) were all around the door seal (or lack there of hah) and maybe the unit will work under control like it is supposed to. From day 1 of the install last year until now it has never been anywhere near this tight. Anyway, I then set the gasket with the red RTV silicone stuff that came with the gasket.

I tried to determine when it's OK to test it. Should I wait 24 hours from setting it and then make a small fire? I mean, the directions on the stuff says such and such time to cure but...won't a fire cure the hell out of it?
 
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I'd follow the instructions. Unless you liked the scraping :p

If the dollar bill is tearing (tight), I'd see if you can slightly loosen up the adjustments - it'll work well, but squeezing it too hard will decrease its sealing lifetime.

Now if adjusting the latch is not possible anymore then so be it (you can always tighten it when the gasket relaxed state gets less thick).
 
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I'd follow the instructions. Unless you liked the scraping :p

If the dollar bill is tearing (tight), I'd see if you can slightly loosen up the adjustments - it'll work well, but squeezing it too hard will decrease its sealing lifetime.

Now if adjusting the latch is not possible anymore then so be it (you can always tighten it when the gasket relaxed state gets less thick).
Ah, good idea! I have more washers I can add. Guess I'll add a couple more and then re-test the dollar bill to ensure it is still very tight. Thanks
 
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Some good resistance is needed, not a stuck bill.
Nothing wrong with the latter but it will lead to a gasket that needs replacing sooner.
 
OK so the new gasket is all set and cured. Had my first fire with the new gasket. I am not sure if there was any difference. I loaded the box full and did a top-down start as usual. This time, however, I was so nervous that it would turn into another runaway with STT over 900 degrees that I closed the air completely just 6 minutes after first lighting it. That was so early that I had to retreat and open it up later on. Here's the details of the burn:


2/12 38-degrees, full box, top-down start, NEW GASKET. 100% tight
4:38 lit
4:39 Door shut
4:42 Air reduced to 65%
4:42 Air reduced to 15%
4:44 Air shut. Fan on low
4:45 STT 504 G 245
4:55 STT 500 G 360 Air up to 30%
4:57 Air reduced to 20%
4:58 STT 504 G 395
5:04 STT 665 G 485 Air shut again
5:20 STT 665 G 565 Air remains shut
5:33 STT 665 G 620
5:44 STT 722 G 667
6:18 STT 675 G 685
6:32 STT 600 G 660. Air open to 15%
6:50 STT 600 G 690
7:10 STT 630 G 686
7:25 STT 617 G 685
Cruising from here on.

What do you think? Is this a normal burn for this stove? This was very hard to control and I wanted to keep it under 700 on the stove top but it still snuck up there on me for a bit. Seems to me way too easy to screw this up when in fact the entire wisdom of a non-cat stove is to not really be able to mess it up as long as you turn that air down. Any one have any tips to harness the Regency off-gassing nightmares I am having?

Another thought is maybe top-down is just too aggressive for this Regency stove. The manual says nothing about it. It gives instructions to make a fire traditionally in stages with kindling from the bottom. Perhaps the top-down gets the stove top too hot too fast which causes the glowing over-firing? I mean, when I had the glowing stove top a few days ago, the stove top was at 980 but the front center glass reading was only at 787 at the same time and never got any hotter. Should I just be doing hot reloads on coals raked to the front and abandon the top down? That would be very sad because top-down is way better for clean burning nearly instantly...
 
Glass temperatures are irrelevant. The firebox temp behind it will be 1000-1200º normally in order to achieve secondary combustion.

It sounds like more control is evident. The firewood may be exceptionally dry. Can you post a picture of the loaded firebox before ignition?