help with a new drolet heat max.

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Hi I did have the thermodisc check with a mult meter and a heat gun and the it cut in and out best kind, and I did jump a wire from one wire to the other and the blower cut in. I say like u said it was a mistake when they put it there that's why they changed is. What is the site u read this
 
I agree, the picture is very helpful.

I can't see for sure, but there appears to be something on top of the furnace at the very center. Is there something there, and if so, can you describe it, or take a closer picture? Did you buy the furnace brand new and install it yourself, or is there a chance that someone else has modified your furnace? I ask only to rule out the chance, especially since your picture is not consistent with the Drolet manual available online as Brenndatomu has indicated, especially since it is dated Dec 17, 2014 which is not long ago.
 
[Hearth.com] help with a new drolet heat max. [Hearth.com] help with a new drolet heat max. I did buy the furnace my self last winter and just put it in 3 months ago and installed it my self there is not on the top center. What site can I see the new drolet. I will sent a closer picture
 
OK cool, so it sounds as though you did not try running the furnace with the blower switch jumped out for a while?
I can see yours is different because you don't have the sheet metal conduit running from between the duct adapters back to the control box like the one my sister just bought. Model # DF02000 (it is sitting in my garage until I have time to put it in for them) If you look up the manual online you can see what I mean on the parts breakdown illustration. Part #79 through 84, kind of in the middle of the drawing, just left of center. That's where the switches are on this one.
There is a VERY long thread over on arboristsite called "Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - the Drolet Tundra!" It was started by an SBI rep back when the Tundra first came out. Unfortunately he doesn't work for SBI anymore and they do not have a rep that posts on AS now.
 
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It is still in the crate under plastic, I just peeked in a lil hole...you can see what I'm talking about on the owners manual cover drawing and in parts drawing
 
bedrock you must have gotten new old stock. Sissies manual was printed back in May, it shows the new setup. I checked SBI website, it shows both models DF01000 and DF02000 (Heatmax VS Tundra) both the same way. What is your manufacture date? Hers is 6/27/2014
 
Furnace is running now for the night and I don't want to mess with it while 110Volts is there, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow. It basically looks like your does in post #53, except under the shiny casing in post #57.
oh ok if u can i like to see a picture to see if they just have a hole and strew down. how long u had your furnace, does the blower run long with the damper close off. is it hard on wood.
 
Snap disc that controls my blower is shown in this picture. It has a flat surface that contacts the top of the furnace; no holes except two screw holes. You can see the outline of the snap disc in the dust on top of my furnace.

[Hearth.com] help with a new drolet heat max.

I notice in your post #53 that your wires aren't the right colors, either, (red and white) further suggesting that your furnace is not quite consistent with what SBI mass-produced according to the manual. Hopefully, in your discussions with SBI, they are aware of whatever configuration you have, so that you and they are solving the same problem.
 
Snap disc that controls my blower is shown in this picture. It has a flat surface that contacts the top of the furnace; no holes except two screw holes. You can see the outline of the snap disc in the dust on top of my furnace.

View attachment 152938

I notice in your post #53 that your wires aren't the right colors, either, (red and white) further suggesting that your furnace is not quite consistent with what SBI mass-produced according to the manual. Hopefully, in your discussions with SBI, they are aware of whatever configuration you have, so that you and they are solving the same problem.
Thanks for the picture I will call SBI again on Monday.
 
You're welcome.

I forgot to answer some of your questions: I've had my furnace since August, and have been burning since Nov 1 2014. I've gone through 4+ full cords of low-density wood, and I probably could have been doing better for a while if I had better understood how to run the furnace. It took me some experimenting to get better at it.

My blower usually stays on the whole time even with the damper closed during secondary combustion. For example, if I load the furnace completely full, the secondaries will burn for 2+ hours, and the blower runs constant that whole time. Once its down to coals, the blower starts to cycle on and off.
 
Snap disc that controls my blower is shown in this picture. It has a flat surface that contacts the top of the furnace; no holes except two screw holes. You can see the outline of the snap disc in the dust on top of my furnace.
Did you have to drill those screw holes or were they there already?
 
You're welcome.

I forgot to answer some of your questions: I've had my furnace since August, and have been burning since Nov 1 2014. I've gone through 4+ full cords of low-density wood, and I probably could have been doing better for a while if I had better understood how to run the furnace. It took me some experimenting to get better at it.

My blower usually stays on the whole time even with the damper closed during secondary combustion. For example, if I load the furnace completely full, the secondaries will burn for 2+ hours, and the blower runs constant that whole time. Once its down to coals, the blower starts to cycle on and off.
Thanks a lots
 
Snap disc that controls my blower is shown in this picture. It has a flat surface that contacts the top of the furnace; no holes except two screw holes. You can see the outline of the snap disc in the dust on top of my furnace.hi I just look a my furnace I don't have the gap between the to 8" pipes

View attachment 152938

I notice in your post #53 that your wires aren't the right colors, either, (red and white) further suggesting that your furnace is not quite consistent with what SBI mass-produced according to the manual. Hopefully, in your discussions with SBI, they are aware of whatever configuration you have, so that you and they are solving the same problem.
 
Did you have to drill those screw holes or were they there already?

They were already there, I didn't have to drill or assemble anything, what you see in post #65 is just me disassembling what I had purchased assembled by SBI.
 
Oh, yeah, sorry. I'm getting you confused with somebody else that added the cold air return kit. The kit comes with parts to move the switch to the top like they are now.
 
Oh, yeah, sorry. I'm getting you confused with somebody else that added the cold air return kit. The kit comes with parts to move the switch to the top like they are now.

Hmm, I added a cold air kit and didn't have to move anything.
 
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