Help size my future BK

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I am tagging two of the usual suspects from the "green room" area at hearth dot com into this thread.

@woodgeek and @peakbagger . I am not convinced any wood stove is the best option here, given the efficiency of the home.

Should the OP consider perhaps a heat pump (perhaps ground source?) with some solar panels to help offset ongoing operational cost?

@ironglen what are your goals?

Is your wife's around the house wardrobe suitable to your role as husband and master of the house, or do you need more BTUs in your insulation envelope to step fully into God's plan?

In 2014 Alaska dollars a good quality chimney and a good quality wood burner are going to set you back about $5k each. Plus you will have to deal with 3 cords every year, soup to nuts. How much system can you get with solar/ heat pump for that, and is having some AC available in the summertime attractive?

FWIW ironglen is in about 1100 sqft and using 55MBTU annual for heat and hotwater. I am in 2400 sqft and using about 275MBTU annually samey same. Ironglen does live in a more moderate climate than I, but his home (mine is 3+ star) is also more efficient than mine.

I am not convinced any wood burning stove on the market is the best choice here, without knowing OPs goals and some heat pump type input from the green room.
 
Well you’re right. The steady heat even on low will overheat my house sometimes during our intermittent warm spells. I’m going for a 24hr burn tonight so at a low setting and it’s still 73.2 in the farthest room in the house so I definitely understand.
 
The fireview is a great stove. It’s really small though, measures less than 2 cubic feet with a weird shape that you can’t stuff as well as a princess. Anything a fireview can do, a princess can do for longer.

Good cat stoves use the firebox as a fuel tank and give the operator a wide range of burn rates to choose from. BK and Woodstock give a pretty wide range, kuma apparently not so much.
I thought so too, but the specs keep nagging at me after seeing the fireview output listed at 7.6-46.5k BTUs and the princess at 13.6-40.4k BTUs. If true, that's a huge difference in the lowest output (I'm skeptical, thinking the low end may be warm soapstone without viable embers). The lowest output BK is the Boxer 24 at 9.6-30k BTUs. I know of no other comparable stoves with low output capability and usable top-end output other than the Kuma line.

The smaller Kuma's are listed at 10.6-32k BTUs, but the 1.74 ft3 fireboxes must be a limitation with our spruce fuel here as a dealer said <8 hr burn times with spruce, probably 6 hrs.

Will the real-world output BTUs be much smaller than the EPA-tested rated outputs for all stoves using spruce? I thought the BTU capacity species differences would extend the length of output more than affect the rate of output.
 
I am tagging two of the usual suspects from the "green room" area at hearth dot com into this thread.

@woodgeek and @peakbagger . I am not convinced any wood stove is the best option here, given the efficiency of the home.

Should the OP consider perhaps a heat pump (perhaps ground source?) with some solar panels to help offset ongoing operational cost?

@ironglen what are your goals?

Is your wife's around the house wardrobe suitable to your role as husband and master of the house, or do you need more BTUs in your insulation envelope to step fully into God's plan?

In 2014 Alaska dollars a good quality chimney and a good quality wood burner are going to set you back about $5k each. Plus you will have to deal with 3 cords every year, soup to nuts. How much system can you get with solar/ heat pump for that, and is having some AC available in the summertime attractive?

FWIW ironglen is in about 1100 sqft and using 55MBTU annual for heat and hotwater. I am in 2400 sqft and using about 275MBTU annually samey same. Ironglen does live in a more moderate climate than I, but his home (mine is 3+ star) is also more efficient than mine.

I am not convinced any wood burning stove on the market is the best choice here, without knowing OPs goals and some heat pump type input from the green room.
I posted this over at nemohoes thread on Hearthstone/Heritage Soap Stone Models as I thought we had similar goals for a wood stove:

I think that you and I have similar wants for a stove and somewhat similar conditions/heating needs. The most important being correct output for the space 24/7. Mine are:
1. ability to lower output very low
2. enough output to be the sole heat source
3. long burn times (enough to sleep!)
4. reliability/quality
5. ease of maintenance/use
6. 2023- 30% tax credit eligible
7. affordable
8. match decor/aesthetics

#1 -closer- to year round use (8-9 months anyway)
#2 being we are limping along at the moment since both utilities and our NG furnace are unreliable (only 5yrs old with supply shortage affecting part availability) AND we are striving to reduce recurring costs as we approach retirement
#3, 5 for ease of use for both myself and wife
#4 same as above
#6 tax credit covers the cleaner, quality stove AND expensive new flue required, estimated $4k cost after the tax credit

#9 priceless peace of mind when I am away for my wife to heat the home without dependence on others

I installed ceiling fans and an evaporative cooler for the home mainly to reduce gravel road dust: our summer highs are only in the low-mid 80s and comfortable in the shade. I just installed a new, white metal roof with the correct attic soffit and ridge venting this Oct.

We would enjoy a bit more BTUs, as we keep the thermostat around 68 for thriftiness over comfort (it's cooler than we prefer).

I have some tree removal experience and tools to use for wood prep: chainsaws, a trailer, and pickup and a friendly lifelong firewood supplier neighbor for advice (I'm pretty sure he doesn't know current stove technology and sizing).

Almost forgot, my wife and I have done physical work together (still married!) and she may help with wood prep as we spend a lot of time outdoors.

Hope that helps.
 
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+68 dF in the winter for thriftiness, cooler than you prefer?

BK 30 box. Chinook, Ashford, Scirocco, I don't care. Possible Princess for the bigger fuel tank if your spouse is OK with the aesthetics.

Plan on 5 cords annually. Start bringing home pallets to stack on TODAY and order your first two incoming cords as soon as you have 5 levelled pallets to stack on. You can top cover with anything waterproof, metal roofing, old shower curtains, anything to keep the rain off.

Remember to tell your insurance agent that your are supplemental wood burner, with NG as your ongoing primary heat source.

Switch to boxer shorts.

Prepare for a new season in your life that includes the Song of Songs.

Peace out.
 
+68 dF in the winter for thriftiness, cooler than you prefer?

BK 30 box. Chinook, Ashford, Scirocco, I don't care. Possible Princess for the bigger fuel tank if your spouse is OK with the aesthetics.

Plan on 5 cords annually. Start bringing home pallets to stack on TODAY and order your first two incoming cords as soon as you have 5 levelled pallets to stack on. You can top cover with anything waterproof, metal roofing, old shower curtains, anything to keep the rain off.

Remember to tell your insurance agent that your are supplemental wood burner, with NG as your ongoing primary heat source.

Switch to boxer shorts.

Prepare for a new season in your life that includes the Song of Songs.

Peace out.
Give us a break! We're formerly from west Texas with summer highs in the 100s, but we now go outside nearly every day for work or recreation and eat at home, so we're pretty thin. Winter indoor humidity averages 24% according to my Airthings radon monitor (highly recommended) which makes it feel colder along with the altitude caloric loss. I'm afraid to ask: what temp do you keep your living space in the tundra?

So, not too much output in the BK stoves? Or is it a matter of no other appliance capable of providing the lower output? I can use the NG furnace to maintain temp for lower demands, eh? Would prefer the Chinook 30, but we're ok with the princess too.

I've got pallets and pavers to rest the wood on but will get wood and cover asap and eventually build a permanent covering. I wouldn't want to install a stove and not use it.

My neighbor said 3-4 cords annually, but 5 is less than 6!

Already checked with insurance: an increase of $16/year.

Switched to boxers in my 20s!

Now, I had to look up the 'Song of Songs': you got me on that one! I'll have to share the newfound knowledge.
 
I prefer for my wife, at home, to be barefoot in shorts and a tank top. I generally find +80 to +95 dF to be adequate, but each person is different in their cold tolerance, metabolic rate and so forth. When she is wearing fuzzy socks and long pants she is on the phone with her mom looking at California on realtor dot com.

If you are maintaining +68dF consuming 9 MBTU in January, and want to be a little warmer, you got some headroom on the 12K BTU/hr baseline. A lot of headroom. Depends on the wardrobe you would like your wife to choose of her own free will.

At this level, the real difference between the 30 size box, the princess and the king is the size of the firebox, how often you want, or are available, to reload the stove. All three of those stoves are pretty equal in output until you start talking about 3k sqft and up where the king starts rising up out of the surf with Venus on his shoulders.

I am not really equipped to give you a lot more meaningful commentary at this point, without coming to your house and feeling for airleaks around the window frames in cold weather. If you have, or plan on, kids at home, go big aka princess. If the kids are up and out, the 30 boxes are more attractive for folks with fashion sense. Given your square footage (and moderate climate) I don't see much point in installing an 8" chimney to accommodate the BK king or similar, there should be many options for 6 inch chimney pipe to meet your needs.

If your wife likes the looks of a Princess, get one on backorder right now before she changes her mind. The larger capacity firebox will give you more (time sensitive) flexibility on reloads compared to the 30 sized boxes.

I am technically in the taiga (little sticks) with the tundra starting not that many miles north of here.

Running 50MBTU through a BK 30 box in 9 months is going to be fairly easy. Given you have done your homework already, one thing to look at is find your "degree loss per hour" with the NG furnace turned off. Mine is fairly linear from +40dF down to about -20dF, and then I am on the complex curvy part of the (exponential) curve , the bottom drops out of my degree loss per hour around -30 dF, in colder temps than that the real question is how much wood can I stuff in the stove how fast.

Spruce- Pine - Fir (SPF) is nearly ideal for getting a lot of BTUs into the stove fast without waiting for your coals to burn down. You might look to see if you can get small quantities of a moderate hardwood like birch on a regular basis for your shoulder seasons.

I did burn a cord of birch this fall (2022) looking for the longer coaling stage to keep my house warm for extended periods compared to spruce. It as a bit of learning curve, and I am not likely to do it regularly, but your shoulder seasons are less dramatic than mine. Running birch for 36 hours was nice, but I can do cold starts on spruce (each evening) routinely for much the same effect.

At the end of the day, either of a 30 box or the Princess should give you consistent 12-24 reload times with warmer indoor temps and improved spousal wardrobe. Whether you are reloading every 12, 24 or 36 hours is just going to depend on the weather. There will be times (every year) where a 24 hour burn in a 30 box could have been extended to 36 hours if you had a princess. Likewise there will be times where a 30 box can give you 12 hours but a princess might go 18 hours.

Either way, you should make time in your schedule to be available to load the stove in the morning before you leave for work, and in the evening when you return, but you most likely for most of the year will not be on a 12 hour reload schedule with either stove. Unless you have spent time in Amsterdam and have specific wardrobe goals for your wife the Viennese would find diverting.

Five cords, get 'er done. Get some motrin, I am partial to Dalwhinnie.
 
One thing to consider is if’s fairly cold out you can always open a window or 2. I have a buddy that leaves a window upstairs open all winter long. Problem around here is it warms up and if I don’t look ahead at the weather, opening windows doesn’t cure the problem very quickly. But in your case I’d suspect being so cold out it would work pretty quick if you screwed up and stuffed it full
 
Spruce can vary in density. Yours is probably tight grain and a lot more dense than our coastal second growth with rings 1/2” wide. I’ve buried a few cords of it through the years and if memory serves, our second growth seemed to burn hot and fast in a pre epa stove
 
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Notes:
you may wish to remember, regardless of what stove you purchase, turn off ceiling before loading a EPA clean burning stove. They can cause spillage of smoke when door is open.

Pallets also make superb side walls and rear walls for wood sheds. Just drop 2 x 4' down through them and screw them together.

If you find a HD or Lowes near you, visit store manager and ask for a phone call when any extra long pallets arrive with tin, lumber, trim work/moldings etc. These are usually made with 4 x 4's, great for building roof structure. You'll need some OSB and aluminum roofing, but an 8 cords shed can be built for $400 or less. A coworker was driving by a building having a new rubber roof installed. He asked to contractor for a 10' x 30' piece of rubber roof being removed. Cost: $0.

Great stuff here from real wood burners!

And if Poindexter moves to California, be right with our heavenly Father because the world is coming to an end!
 
Well you’re right. The steady heat even on low will overheat my house sometimes during our intermittent warm spells. I’m going for a 24hr burn tonight so at a low setting and it’s still 73.2 in the farthest room in the house so I definitely understand.
I think 69-72F would be the ideal temp range, perhaps dropping to 66-68 overnight and rising no more than 73-74 during the day would be acceptable. What is your home size/estimated efficiency in the PNW?
 
Notes:
you may wish to remember, regardless of what stove you purchase, turn off ceiling before loading a EPA clean burning stove. They can cause spillage of smoke when door is open.

Pallets also make superb side walls and rear walls for wood sheds. Just drop 2 x 4' down through them and screw them together.

If you find a HD or Lowes near you, visit store manager and ask for a phone call when any extra long pallets arrive with tin, lumber, trim work/moldings etc. These are usually made with 4 x 4's, great for building roof structure. You'll need some OSB and aluminum roofing, but an 8 cords shed can be built for $400 or less. A coworker was driving by a building having a new rubber roof installed. He asked to contractor for a 10' x 30' piece of rubber roof being removed. Cost: $0.

Great stuff here from real wood burners!

And if Poindexter moves to California, be right with our heavenly Father because the world is coming to an end!
Those are some great suggestions and I'm all for saving money. The nearest HD/Lowes is 2.5 hrs away, but several small lumberyards are nearby. We'll see what is approved by the spouse!
 
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I prefer for my wife, at home, to be barefoot in shorts and a tank top. I generally find +80 to +95 dF to be adequate, but each person is different in their cold tolerance, metabolic rate and so forth. When she is wearing fuzzy socks and long pants she is on the phone with her mom looking at California on realtor dot com.

If you are maintaining +68dF consuming 9 MBTU in January, and want to be a little warmer, you got some headroom on the 12K BTU/hr baseline. A lot of headroom. Depends on the wardrobe you would like your wife to choose of her own free will.

At this level, the real difference between the 30 size box, the princess and the king is the size of the firebox, how often you want, or are available, to reload the stove. All three of those stoves are pretty equal in output until you start talking about 3k sqft and up where the king starts rising up out of the surf with Venus on his shoulders.

I am not really equipped to give you a lot more meaningful commentary at this point, without coming to your house and feeling for airleaks around the window frames in cold weather. If you have, or plan on, kids at home, go big aka princess. If the kids are up and out, the 30 boxes are more attractive for folks with fashion sense. Given your square footage (and moderate climate) I don't see much point in installing an 8" chimney to accommodate the BK king or similar, there should be many options for 6 inch chimney pipe to meet your needs.
LOL! I thought you were implying we were pampered and expected you to say you were at 60F indoors or something. Guess I missed the written inflection! There was some beach real estate viewing when we first moved here...but then I introduced her to snowshoeing. Cold temps are much more tolerable when you have recreation opportunities. I've found that quality/appropriate clothing is critical.

I'm should mention that I'm waiting every day for our first NG bill since I installed new argon windows, we blew an additional pallet of cellulose attic insulation this fall, and hope to stop or reduce the heat-zapping 24/7 crawl space radon fan once I get around to cleaning and plastic wrapping the crawlspace floor. I also have exposed insulation in the carport addition that needs sheetrock and sealing.

We can realistically reload without issue morning and evening, but the ability to extend to 16 or more hrs could be helpful.

We care how things look, but comfort is key which means proper sizing for the envelope's heating needs.

I worked in HVAC and I am familiar with air sealing and insulation materials/installation. I used butyl tape and spray foam to seal the new windows and all ceiling boxes, fan boxes, outlet boxes, pipe openings, and ducts have spray foam or caulk. Door seals are in good condition with tight latches. I will seal the perimeter sill plates when I replace the flooring as the area is cooler, without drafts.

It's just my wife, dog, and I.
 
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I think 69-72F would be the ideal temp range, perhaps dropping to 66-68 overnight and rising no more than 73-74 during the day would be acceptable. What is your home size/estimated efficiency in the PNW?
Sw Ohio here, and the above temperature ranges are nearly identical to what we like. It’s 40’s to 55F here currently. We like the house IAT (inside air temperature) about 70-72 during these more mild OAT (outside air temperatures). Of course bedrooms in that 66-69F range currently. Last week I had -45F OAT one evening and -11F to -15F for about 4 days. Currently 50 at 5am this Saturday morning with 58F yesterday … total temperature swing last weekend to this weekend is 103 degrees.

My home 1350 sq ft of 1954 build construction and not really the worst or the best insulation.

Threads like these are my wheel house and the ones I enjoy the most.

1. Little to no interference from moderators.😂
2. I love the numbers and real world experiences shared by regular forum members who are really into this and the number crunching.

That said, everyone including the OP has done a great job with the numbers so I won’t go into that only to say that your home and mine are very close in size. What we expect and what our concerns are, are indeed very similar as well….strikingly similar.

While I’m NOT currently burning wood, have never burned or owned a BK, WS, or Kuma stove, if you throw in Lopi (I have a Liberty)…those are my top 4 stove pics and I’ve spent about 7-8 years now looking at websites, brochures, going to dealers and crawling over, around, on top of, and into these stove. There are 3 other stove brands that I like that are great but with the exception of one of those brands they never made it into my top 4 choices. Over that time span of 7-8 years researching one unmentioned brand has just about tied to get into my top four, so we’ll call in top 5. LOL! I will not name it and it isn’t important really. Let’s just say it’s well made and fits the category of my last two stoves mentioned above in build quality and features that I’m like. I have listed stoves in order of my preference for your consideration.

If I could chime in here, it would be to give you comparable information that addresses your concerns about which wood stove to buy based on your said needs/wants, but from a different perspective…because I burn coal. That’s right. Anthracite hard coal.

Now before you or anyone else gets their panties in a wad my suggestions and comments for you have absolutely nothing to do with coal. Rather the numbers I’ve gathered for my own use, reasons I bought the stove, and the stoves size might help you.

I had first and foremost set out researching wood stoves and stumbled across an anthracite coal forum, which also led to researching about anthracite, its cost as an alternative fuel, stoves, etc. (Anthracite will be cost prohibitive for you at your location so don’t bother considering it…rather track with me for a Segundo.) Anthracite for me was a cost efficient alternative to fuel oil. An aging body as well as the fact that even though I have my own wood lot I no longer have a wood splitter, need a new saw, need a wood hauler truck/trailer…just too many expenses to get back into cutting wood. We used to cut and sell but sold everything. So for me buying anthracite was an alternative to buying wood and/or fuel oil.

To give you an example…
I was buying wood cheaper than coal but when considering btu/lb coal was still cheaper that last few years. Now coal prices have doubled but still far cheaper than fuel oil. With coal I went from $325/yr ($250/ton) to heat my home to $750/yr ($500/ton). Fuel oil comparison was $2500+/yr to $5000-$6000/yr.

As it turned out two of the coal stoves I researched and learned about peaked my interest because just like Blaze King wood stoves, they too operated by bi-metallic thermostat on the back of the stove for nice steady heat 24/7 that is repeatable. That word repeatable, as it turns out, is very important. You can come close with a soapstone stove, but close is as close as you’ll get. There’s nothing like a thermostat on a stove. It’s just plain convenient, especially for the ladies.

So my interest was peaked about these coal stoves and the coal itself…and enough so that I went to a stove manufacturer, seen how the stoves were made and stuck my head into them being built as well as in the fire box while they were burning. Not literally, but I wanted to see if I could smell the anthracite burning…because if I could smell it the deal was off. I could not smell it…at all…and none of our visitors has smelled it burning inside of our home. In fact, they smell nothing. Anyway…that’s sort of off track…

Being a wood burner I still wasn’t sure if we’d like it and who wants to spend $3k on a coal stove when they aren’t sure if they’ll like burning coal. I’m going somewhere with this…track with me. So I found a nice large anthracite coal stove near new for only a few Benjamin’s, and it was local so I jumped all over it. Been burning that stove and anthracite now for 4 years.

A forum member here, also he’s a neighbor about 5 miles from me, @logfarmer, got lucky and just last fall found a 2004 used BK King model for a song. He and I had met on this forum, discovered we were local neighbors, he seen I was into stoves, and he sent me a pm or text asking what I thought about it because he wasn’t sure about buying it. I told him he better jump on it at the price if he wanted to try one. So he bought it and installed a new catalyst in it. This is his second winter with it and he’s getting 40+hr burns on coals and a good ash bed…less than half a load of walnut wood…40+hours… and he and I both are simply astounded at his results. Neither of us believed the hype. We are believers now! His home is 1800 sq ft, with a two story masonry lined chimney that by most comments here shouldn’t be working for a King model stove. He gets less than a quart of creosote when cleaning his chimney and it drafts flawlessly in an odd shaped clay lined chimney liner that is smaller than what is recommended. Again, he and I both are astounded by the BK Kings performance. A giant stove in a not so large house.

So with regard to maybe buying a secondary air tube stove or hybrid stove (besides a WoodStock) just for overnight burns: Why??? Unless you really like the WS there’s not even a real good reason to even compare it to a BK, even though burn times with the WS are respectable for the type of stove it is. Reason? With the WS, Kuma, Lopi, just in an overnight burn you will consume more wood than a similar sized Blaze King.

Now before people get their panties in a wad over me saying that…this OP is worried about too much heat from any stove…so he doesn’t need the amount of btu’s that a tube stove can throw over night. It doesn’t suit his needs as much as having a controllable stove with a thermostat that will provide plenty of heat even at higher burns and still use less wood doing it.

Back to my coal stove…a very large Hitzer 354…in 1350 sq ft. A giant stove in a not so large house. That’s the second time you’ve read that in the last 2 minutes. LOL!

By all odds this stove is way too big and the manufacturer told me that I may not be able to use it. If not for the thermostat he would be exactly right, BUT the thermostat makes it possible. Very important.

Anthracite is about 12,500 btu/lb.

My Hitzer 354 is “advertised” to burn from 1-7lbs/hr. The BK King and the Hitzer 354 are similar in size and sq ft heating capacity, approximately 2500-4000+sq ft depending on insulation. My daily consumption for the entire heating season last year was .88lbs/hr, a little bit less than 12,500btu/hr. The coldest few days last season produced the hottest temperatures I’ve ever ran the stove…420F just above the doors on the face of the stove. Most of the year this big stove cruises 275-320. Shoulder seasons it’s cruising below 225F. I couldn’t do that on a constant burn with an ordinary wood stove. My exhaust temperature remain about 94F-104F regardless whether I cruising low or burning at 325F.

The BK wood stove is the only stove made, that I’m aware of, with exhaust temperatures even remotely close to rivaling some coal stoves. The BK stove have the ability to cruise low for long periods just like a coal stove, with less need as often to empty ash, which is a nice benefit.

I had contacted @BKVP and shared with him information about my coal stove and its size, the size of my home etc. His recommendation was the BK Sirocco for my 1350 sq ft. My chimney is inside the home and masonry lined. Obviously, an insulated metal liner would optimize performance, but may or may not be necessary for my needs.

Now I have no reason to believe that @BKVP’s Sirocco suggestion was wrong. In fact, I believe that stove would serve me or you very well given our circumstances and how much heat we’re actually looking for and/or needing from the stove. The question then becomes how big of a fuel tank do you want beyond that. So how big of a wood stove fuel tank are you willing to consider?

I know that the Sirocco would work well for me…and now with information shared by my new found friend and forum member…information that he’s gathered I can now determine that I could also burn a King model in my house. However, he and both feel that a BK Princess would be plenty big for when I want to extend my burn times. Something you need to consider more. Do you work or are you gone from the home for 8hrs+ daily? That alone to me says smaller BK stove, loading on 12 shifts, but still capable of 20+hr burn times. If you’re home all day loading on 12’s isn’t bad, but a bigger stove not only can go 24+hrs between tending, it can go weeks before emptying ash and can also provide more heat for those unusual and unexpected out of the ordinary cold snaps.

From there you may need to decide how much ambience is important to you, and if it is important opt for a slightly smaller stove to burn more in the med-low to medium rate. Otherwise, get the largest fuel capacity you think you can handle without overheating your home. However, always remember that unlike my coal stove…which responds very slowly to air intake adjustments…can actually take days to stall a fire-to kill it…wood is far quicker in response…you can always build smaller hot fires and let them burn completely out for your once a day fires.

With coal AND burning it in this giant stove, (12,500 btu/lb) my .88lbs/hr … then considering the real estate of the stove body at about 185-225F … that’s about as low as I dare go for fear of the fuel load going out. As these Ohio temps always do, they fluctuate greatly and I’m doing well to burn this very large coal stove as well as I do in such a small home. I would be much better off with a smaller coal stove…and for a wood stove I could burn the King…but it puts me in the same situation I am already in…that is, many days burning as low as I can and using windowstats to cool off and moderate inside air temperatures. What makes more sense is a smaller coal stove or the Princess wood stove. More than likely @BKVP’s suggestion of the BK Sirocco would suffice without the need for more fuel capacity still me long burn times when needed AND clean glass.

All that to say this…I think our situations are very similar down to the size of our homes, albeit wood types burned will be different. I think the Sirocco/Princess stoves would fill our needs…that barring anything I might have missed.
 
Sw Ohio here, and the above temperature ranges are nearly identical to what we like. It’s 40’s to 55F here currently. We like the house IAT (inside air temperature) about 70-72 during these more mild OAT (outside air temperatures). Of course bedrooms in that 66-69F range currently. Last week I had -45F OAT one evening and -11F to -15F for about 4 days. Currently 50 at 5am this Saturday morning with 58F yesterday … total temperature swing last weekend to this weekend is 103 degrees.

My home 1350 sq ft of 1954 build construction and not really the worst or the best insulation.

Threads like these are my wheel house and the ones I enjoy the most.

1. Little to no interference from moderators.😂
2. I love the numbers and real world experiences shared by regular forum members who are really into this and the number crunching.

That said, everyone including the OP has done a great job with the numbers so I won’t go into that only to say that your home and mine are very close in size. What we expect and what our concerns are, are indeed very similar as well….strikingly similar.

While I’m NOT currently burning wood, have never burned or owned a BK, WS, or Kuma stove, if you throw in Lopi (I have a Liberty)…those are my top 4 stove pics and I’ve spent about 7-8 years now looking at websites, brochures, going to dealers and crawling over, around, on top of, and into these stove. There are 3 other stove brands that I like that are great but with the exception of one of those brands they never made it into my top 4 choices. Over that time span of 7-8 years researching one unmentioned brand has just about tied to get into my top four, so we’ll call in top 5. LOL! I will not name it and it isn’t important really. Let’s just say it’s well made and fits the category of my last two stoves mentioned above in build quality and features that I’m like. I have listed stoves in order of my preference for your consideration.

If I could chime in here, it would be to give you comparable information that addresses your concerns about which wood stove to buy based on your said needs/wants, but from a different perspective…because I burn coal. That’s right. Anthracite hard coal.

Now before you or anyone else gets their panties in a wad my suggestions and comments for you have absolutely nothing to do with coal. Rather the numbers I’ve gathered for my own use, reasons I bought the stove, and the stoves size might help you.

I had first and foremost set out researching wood stoves and stumbled across an anthracite coal forum, which also led to researching about anthracite, its cost as an alternative fuel, stoves, etc. (Anthracite will be cost prohibitive for you at your location so don’t bother considering it…rather track with me for a Segundo.) Anthracite for me was a cost efficient alternative to fuel oil. An aging body as well as the fact that even though I have my own wood lot I no longer have a wood splitter, need a new saw, need a wood hauler truck/trailer…just too many expenses to get back into cutting wood. We used to cut and sell but sold everything. So for me buying anthracite was an alternative to buying wood and/or fuel oil.

To give you an example…
I was buying wood cheaper than coal but when considering btu/lb coal was still cheaper that last few years. Now coal prices have doubled but still far cheaper than fuel oil. With coal I went from $325/yr ($250/ton) to heat my home to $750/yr ($500/ton). Fuel oil comparison was $2500+/yr to $5000-$6000/yr.

As it turned out two of the coal stoves I researched and learned about peaked my interest because just like Blaze King wood stoves, they too operated by bi-metallic thermostat on the back of the stove for nice steady heat 24/7 that is repeatable. That word repeatable, as it turns out, is very important. You can come close with a soapstone stove, but close is as close as you’ll get. There’s nothing like a thermostat on a stove. It’s just plain convenient, especially for the ladies.

So my interest was peaked about these coal stoves and the coal itself…and enough so that I went to a stove manufacturer, seen how the stoves were made and stuck my head into them being built as well as in the fire box while they were burning. Not literally, but I wanted to see if I could smell the anthracite burning…because if I could smell it the deal was off. I could not smell it…at all…and none of our visitors has smelled it burning inside of our home. In fact, they smell nothing. Anyway…that’s sort of off track…

Being a wood burner I still wasn’t sure if we’d like it and who wants to spend $3k on a coal stove when they aren’t sure if they’ll like burning coal. I’m going somewhere with this…track with me. So I found a nice large anthracite coal stove near new for only a few Benjamin’s, and it was local so I jumped all over it. Been burning that stove and anthracite now for 4 years.

A forum member here, also he’s a neighbor about 5 miles from me, @logfarmer, got lucky and just last fall found a 2004 used BK King model for a song. He and I had met on this forum, discovered we were local neighbors, he seen I was into stoves, and he sent me a pm or text asking what I thought about it because he wasn’t sure about buying it. I told him he better jump on it at the price if he wanted to try one. So he bought it and installed a new catalyst in it. This is his second winter with it and he’s getting 40+hr burns on coals and a good ash bed…less than half a load of walnut wood…40+hours… and he and I both are simply astounded at his results. Neither of us believed the hype. We are believers now! His home is 1800 sq ft, with a two story masonry lined chimney that by most comments here shouldn’t be working for a King model stove. He gets less than a quart of creosote when cleaning his chimney and it drafts flawlessly in an odd shaped clay lined chimney liner that is smaller than what is recommended. Again, he and I both are astounded by the BK Kings performance. A giant stove in a not so large house.

So with regard to maybe buying a secondary air tube stove or hybrid stove (besides a WoodStock) just for overnight burns: Why??? Unless you really like the WS there’s not even a real good reason to even compare it to a BK, even though burn times with the WS are respectable for the type of stove it is. Reason? With the WS, Kuma, Lopi, just in an overnight burn you will consume more wood than a similar sized Blaze King.

Now before people get their panties in a wad over me saying that…this OP is worried about too much heat from any stove…so he doesn’t need the amount of btu’s that a tube stove can throw over night. It doesn’t suit his needs as much as having a controllable stove with a thermostat that will provide plenty of heat even at higher burns and still use less wood doing it.

Back to my coal stove…a very large Hitzer 354…in 1350 sq ft. A giant stove in a not so large house. That’s the second time you’ve read that in the last 2 minutes. LOL!

By all odds this stove is way too big and the manufacturer told me that I may not be able to use it. If not for the thermostat he would be exactly right, BUT the thermostat makes it possible. Very important.

Anthracite is about 12,500 btu/lb.

My Hitzer 354 is “advertised” to burn from 1-7lbs/hr. The BK King and the Hitzer 354 are similar in size and sq ft heating capacity, approximately 2500-4000+sq ft depending on insulation. My daily consumption for the entire heating season last year was .88lbs/hr, a little bit less than 12,500btu/hr. The coldest few days last season produced the hottest temperatures I’ve ever ran the stove…420F just above the doors on the face of the stove. Most of the year this big stove cruises 275-320. Shoulder seasons it’s cruising below 225F. I couldn’t do that on a constant burn with an ordinary wood stove. My exhaust temperature remain about 94F-104F regardless whether I cruising low or burning at 325F.

The BK wood stove is the only stove made, that I’m aware of, with exhaust temperatures even remotely close to rivaling some coal stoves. The BK stove have the ability to cruise low for long periods just like a coal stove, with less need as often to empty ash, which is a nice benefit.

I had contacted @BKVP and shared with him information about my coal stove and its size, the size of my home etc. His recommendation was the BK Sirocco for my 1350 sq ft. My chimney is inside the home and masonry lined. Obviously, an insulated metal liner would optimize performance, but may or may not be necessary for my needs.

Now I have no reason to believe that @BKVP’s Sirocco suggestion was wrong. In fact, I believe that stove would serve me or you very well given our circumstances and how much heat we’re actually looking for and/or needing from the stove. The question then becomes how big of a fuel tank do you want beyond that. So how big of a wood stove fuel tank are you willing to consider?

I know that the Sirocco would work well for me…and now with information shared by my new found friend and forum member…information that he’s gathered I can now determine that I could also burn a King model in my house. However, he and both feel that a BK Princess would be plenty big for when I want to extend my burn times. Something you need to consider more. Do you work or are you gone from the home for 8hrs+ daily? That alone to me says smaller BK stove, loading on 12 shifts, but still capable of 20+hr burn times. If you’re home all day loading on 12’s isn’t bad, but a bigger stove not only can go 24+hrs between tending, it can go weeks before emptying ash and can also provide more heat for those unusual and unexpected out of the ordinary cold snaps.

From there you may need to decide how much ambience is important to you, and if it is important opt for a slightly smaller stove to burn more in the med-low to medium rate. Otherwise, get the largest fuel capacity you think you can handle without overheating your home. However, always remember that unlike my coal stove…which responds very slowly to air intake adjustments…can actually take days to stall a fire-to kill it…wood is far quicker in response…you can always build smaller hot fires and let them burn completely out for your once a day fires.

With coal AND burning it in this giant stove, (12,500 btu/lb) my .88lbs/hr … then considering the real estate of the stove body at about 185-225F … that’s about as low as I dare go for fear of the fuel load going out. As these Ohio temps always do, they fluctuate greatly and I’m doing well to burn this very large coal stove as well as I do in such a small home. I would be much better off with a smaller coal stove…and for a wood stove I could burn the King…but it puts me in the same situation I am already in…that is, many days burning as low as I can and using windowstats to cool off and moderate inside air temperatures. What makes more sense is a smaller coal stove or the Princess wood stove. More than likely @BKVP’s suggestion of the BK Sirocco would suffice without the need for more fuel capacity still me long burn times when needed AND clean glass.

All that to say this…I think our situations are very similar down to the size of our homes, albeit wood types burned will be different. I think the Sirocco/Princess stoves would fill our needs…that barring anything I might have missed.
Hello Hoytman and thank you for your detailed, insightful reply. My wife and I have been amazed by the numerous, quality responses here at Hearth. Interestingly, I recently saw 'rice coal' on the TSC site and had read about it: I never knew it existed.

This is a big purchase! If it weren't for the minimum output concern, I wouldn't have reached out here on the forum, but most homes have improperly sized HVAC systems (usually too large, with hot/cold short-cycling as a result) and I want comfort for us dang it. The market for small, efficient heaters is unfulfilled IMO, if only BH could or would rebadge the BK Princess to the BK 'Queen' and create a BK 'Princess' that has an output of 5k- 25k BTU output. Heck, leave the Princess alone and create a 'Smolder Prince' cat stove for 5k-25k BTU output (if used, a complimentary stove would be appreciated!). If 80% of wood stove time is run low or low/med as I read here, can engineers not design a similar stove that provides a range that shifts toward a lower output capability, even at the expense of top-end output? Rant over.


[Hearth.com] Help size my future BK
 
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It appears that I will have a decision on my hands as my nearby friend got back to me and has had a WS Fireview in his home for 10 years. Says it's the easiest stove he's ever had. His home is 842 ft2 and he typically burns it low 24/7 and says it stays warm with 2x/day reloading. He is adding an additional bedroom which will make it identically sized as mine at 1100 ft2. I don't know if he is heating it all yet: he might find the stove too small.

His wood collection/prep is much different than all the recommendations I've received. He gets his spruce in Aug/Sept, burns only 1.5-2 cords a year in that hybrid/cat stove the same season, and has yet to have any cat issues. He stores his wood in a shed but says I won't need to since I get very little snow and even less rain, but suggested I have a roof over it anyways. I'll discuss both his stove and wood more with him.

Although they could hardly be more different in material, size and aesthetics, I have narrowed down my list of contenders to the following as I believe they are the only stoves that can possibly check all of my selection criteria (especially minimum output of decent duration). Please suggest other brands/models in the event I may have missed them. I excluded many stoves due to their lowest min output combined with sleep-all-night (SAN) capacity (we're in the age of acronyms for everything aren't we?). Who would ever want a stove without SAN capacity? (feel free to use it, it's not trademarked) 😂

In random order due to differing attributes:

WS Soapstone
-7.6k BTU min output (lowest I've seen on the EPA site), a friend has one here in the same locale at 8000 ft altitude, with identical fuel obtaining adequate reload times in his somewhat similar home, beautiful to look at but not our style, it's small

BK Boxer BX24
-9.6k BTU min output (lowest minimum BK stove) with decent firebox size, favorite appearance among other BK

BK Chinook/Sirocco 30 pedestal
-12k BTU min output with good sized N-S capable firebox and burn time, preferred appearance vs other BK

BK Princess PE32
-13.6k BTU min output with great, deep N-S firebox and burn time, acceptable appearance,

I'm currently leaning toward the BX24, dependent on price/availability, as it has the lowest BK output, decent firebox/ burn time, fits our decor well, and hopefully, minor shortcomings such as a shallower firebox, and damper handle hook. 9.6k vs 13.6k BTU output =42% greater heat output in the PE32 vs the BX24: that's significant. Does anyone know if the BX24 price typically falls above or below the Chinook 30 or PE32?
 
If the WS Fireview is something you like, which it appears lowest on your list, they are fabulous stoves. One thing you haven’t considered though when mentioning this stove is it WILL have HOTTER exhaust which translates to heat lost up the chimney…any way you slice it. That said, they burn beautifully and I’ve read under the right circumstances with hard wood up to 15-18 hrs. Soft wood as you know will be different so compare with your friend who has one.

Before I got too hung up on which one had the lowest btu output I would heavily way N-S loading ( a log can’t rollout) and the deepest box over looks and btu’s. Remember those low btu numbers were most likely given as the lowest output “with a full firebox”. So remember that you have a way to to further control the burn rate with the amount of fuel (or lack of it) you place in the fire box. One stick of wood, or two, loaded on some ash may call for a higher dial setting, burn clean, will likely burn over night, yet still not overload the home with heat. You’ll likely only use the higher end heat output of any of these stoves your coldest few days of the year (even if it lasts a few weeks) and you may still do this without reaching the stove’s maximum capacity.

I haven’t checked in a while but you might look and see if the BK BX 24 offers enough space to load N-S without cutting wood to a special or odd length.

Also, aside from the additional fuel capacity of successively larger stoves, don’t get to caught up with percentages as it can give you a false sense of things. Bigger box means longer burns. Keep it simple.

Also, if you just want heat…not concerned with NOT being able to see a fire…just know the bigger stove you choose will likely provide less ambience…usually important to some, especially the ladies.

Contact @BKVP … keep it short, list your goals them your wants (which will be less important than needs) and let him suggest a BK stove he thinks might fit your needs. Take that information and what you’ve been given in this thread and make a decision.

Listen…it is possible to do as I did and what my neighbor did…be patient, look for a used stove on the market that you choose and buy it to first try it out. That is precisely why I wrote this to you. A new stove is a significant investment. How would I feel with this giant stove had I spent thousands on it??? Not good! For less than 1K for either stove you can get a decent used model to try and them KNOW exactly which stove will fit your needs for a new purchase. Honestly, that is what I would do….especially if there is doubt about which will best serve your needs. Hint: the stove I have and those you’re looking for I rarely see for less than $800, but cheaper and in good shape can be found for less if you are real patient. Just make sure to get serial numbers and check build dates. Don’t buy any BK older than my friend I mentioned in my other post…his is a 2004 and burns like a gem for him. Newer the better, obviously, just check them over good and plan on spending and figuring buying a new catalyst for an about $200, I think is what his catalyst cost him. Just remember a few less than $1k total when done adding new catalyst. They are out there, but you may have to drive for it.

Honestly, I’m glad I bought used stoves first.
 
It appears that I will have a decision on my hands as my nearby friend got back to me and has had a WS Fireview in his home for 10 years. Says it's the easiest stove he's ever had. His home is 842 ft2 and he typically burns it low 24/7 and says it stays warm with 2x/day reloading. He is adding an additional bedroom which will make it identically sized as mine at 1100 ft2. I don't know if he is heating it all yet: he might find the stove too small.

His wood collection/prep is much different than all the recommendations I've received. He gets his spruce in Aug/Sept, burns only 1.5-2 cords a year in that hybrid/cat stove the same season, and has yet to have any cat issues. He stores his wood in a shed but says I won't need to since I get very little snow and even less rain, but suggested I have a roof over it anyways. I'll discuss both his stove and wood more with him.

Although they could hardly be more different in material, size and aesthetics, I have narrowed down my list of contenders to the following as I believe they are the only stoves that can possibly check all of my selection criteria (especially minimum output of decent duration). Please suggest other brands/models in the event I may have missed them. I excluded many stoves due to their lowest min output combined with sleep-all-night (SAN) capacity (we're in the age of acronyms for everything aren't we?). Who would ever want a stove without SAN capacity? (feel free to use it, it's not trademarked) 😂

In random order due to differing attributes:

WS Soapstone
-7.6k BTU min output (lowest I've seen on the EPA site), a friend has one here in the same locale at 8000 ft altitude, with identical fuel obtaining adequate reload times in his somewhat similar home, beautiful to look at but not our style, it's small

BK Boxer BX24
-9.6k BTU min output (lowest minimum BK stove) with decent firebox size, favorite appearance among other BK

BK Chinook/Sirocco 30 pedestal
-12k BTU min output with good sized N-S capable firebox and burn time, preferred appearance vs other BK

BK Princess PE32
-13.6k BTU min output with great, deep N-S firebox and burn time, acceptable appearance,

I'm currently leaning toward the BX24, dependent on price/availability, as it has the lowest BK output, decent firebox/ burn time, fits our decor well, and hopefully, minor shortcomings such as a shallower firebox, and damper handle hook. 9.6k vs 13.6k BTU output =42% greater heat output in the PE32 vs the BX24: that's significant. Does anyone know if the BX24 price typically falls above or below the Chinook 30 or PE32?
Great list but I would drop the bx24 and also consider that there are several Woodstock models. Keystone?
 
His wood collection/prep is much different than all the recommendations I've received. He gets his spruce in Aug/Sept, burns only 1.5-2 cords a year in that hybrid/cat stove the same season, and has yet to have any cat issues. I excluded many stoves due to their lowest min output combined with sleep-all-night (SAN) capacity

BK Boxer BX24
-9.6k BTU min output (lowest minimum BK stove) with decent firebox size, favorite appearance among other BK

BK Chinook/Sirocco 30 pedestal
-12k BTU min output with good sized N-S capable firebox and burn time, preferred appearance vs other BK
I agree with Highbeam, you can drop the BX24 from your shopping list I think.

I don't know the WS whatever from Adam's cat.

Seasoning firewood a couple or three months is not a good long term plan. There is currently a bunch of standing dead timber in Colorado, I don't dispute that; but OP needs a plan for once all that is burnt.

The thing about the BX 24 is it is the same firebox as the 25 series BK inserts. I really want to borrow one so I can hook it up to my existing 6" chimney pipe and beat on it with a leather riding crop (aka spruce at 14%MC) to see what it can do in 1200 sqft at 64 degrees north, but anyone with half a brain knows that stove is too small for my needs. The floor is an irregular hexagon to better fit existing fireplaces. If I ever get one my plan is to cut some of my 16" splits in half and stand those offcuts vertically in the front corners. And beat on it like a rented mule or redheaded stepchild.

I think the BX24 is probably a really good stove. For size and price I suspect the BX24 is a really high performance stove for the money, but I also think ironglen and I both have a few too many square feet in our respective climates to be truly satisfied with the product.

BK 30 box remains my suggestion, with spare budget going to wife's lingerie repeatedly.
 
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I agree with Highbeam, you can drop the BX24 from your shopping list I think.

I don't know the WS whatever from Adam's cat.

Seasoning firewood a couple or three months is not a good long term plan. There is currently a bunch of standing dead timber in Colorado, I don't dispute that; but OP needs a plan for once all that is burnt.

The thing about the BX 24 is it is the same firebox as the 25 series BK inserts. I really want to borrow one so I can hook it up to my existing 6" chimney pipe and beat on it with a leather riding crop (aka spruce at 14%MC) to see what it can do in 1200 sqft at 64 degrees north, but anyone with half a brain knows that stove is too small for my needs. The floor is an irregular hexagon to better fit existing fireplaces. If I ever get one my plan is to cut some of my 16" splits in half and stand those offcuts vertically in the front corners. And beat on it like a rented mule or redheaded stepchild.

I think the BX24 is probably a really good stove. For size and price I suspect the BX24 is a really high performance stove for the money, but I also think ironglen and I both have a few too many square feet in our respective climates to be truly satisfied with the product.

BK 30 box remains my suggestion, with spare budget going to wife's lingerie repeatedly.
Not a fan of the BX24 I take it? My wife says you're a hoot! hahaha

We really dislike the appearance of the WS Keystone and Palladium (especially the lack of soapstone on the face). I'll get with my friend after the holiday to really dig deeper into its performance in his home and its similarities/differences to my home.

Yeah, I plan to get wood much sooner, even if I have to buy some initially. I have an empty space along a 50' long chainlink fence with oilfield pipe for posts that I can weld an overhang on to provide protection from precip. It's on the side, away from the house, and can back up my trailer and unload loads, make a mess, etc. I mentioned before I've not seen a single woodshed or cover on the huge rows of firewood in neighbors' yards, but a covering will help in 'monsoon' season when we get occasional thunderstorms.

Most indicators are pointing toward the Princess after looking at the most recent BK manuals and the specs were different from the previous material I read on brochures, etc...I'll trust the official BK operation and installation manual as listed below. Any BK stove will be mostly recessed on an end wall so you mostly see the front and upward pipe anyway from the living room. Either the Princess (and King) was a very special design, or BK needs some better engineers to develop their newer products as it's better in practically every aspect.
BX24 10.1k-26.3k
30 Series 11.6k-27.1k
Princess 9.1k-30.4k
 
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I'm currently leaning toward the BX24, dependent on price/availability, as it has the lowest BK output, decent firebox/ burn time, fits our decor well, and hopefully, minor shortcomings such as a shallower firebox, and damper handle hook. 9.6k vs 13.6k BTU output =42% greater heat output in the PE32 vs the BX24: that's significant. Does anyone know if the BX24 price typically falls above or below the Chinook 30 or PE32?
This is the first season using the Boxer 24. My first cat stove despite burning wood exclusively since '87 and the 5th wood stove I've owned overall. I have one stove in a outbuilding, a wood furnace in my basement and now the Boxer on the main level of my 1300 sq ft home. The Boxer's purpose is to make my life a bit easier by not using my wood furnace unless I really need to. The furnace works great and overheats my house in temp a Minnesota cold snap can muster up.

First off, the price. Locally, I saw the Boxer for the first time this fall when looking at stoves. It caught my eye because it stood tall compared to most stoves perched on top of platforms to make them appear taller than they really are, the price tag was 5k. But more than I would spend on a stove alone. The price was equal to the other BK 30 size stoves. My search took me 150 miles north where I saw the Boxer for 4k, and a demo model for $3300, used one season on the showroom floor. At that price it was cheaper than the smaller BK 20 size units, plus it was broke in, no smells to deal with.

My impressions. The odd size box to me isnt a issue other than the overall height, N/S the stove is 17" long. The overall height is limited by the cat taking up a lot of real estate in the center of the stove. With a coal bed taking up a few inches of height on the bottom, it limits how high splits can be stacked. It would take some narrow splits stacked on top of the bottom row of wood to pack the stove full. Something I really dont do. I just pack as much wood as I can get in comfortably which will give me a overnight burn. As far as heat output, I found the stove itself doesnt give a lot of radiant heat, unlike any other stove I've had. The blower fan must be used to push the heat between the double walls. I have a ceiling fan in my living room to keep air moving which helps when i'm not running the blower fan. I've never been big on background noise of any kind in my home so having to use the fan is a negative imo. Turning the thermostat way down to the lowest setting doesnt produce much heat. Using the blower fan in the lowest setting seems to outweigh any heat the stove is putting out. The lowest setting it will also mess up the glass window big time. So I tend to burn it a bit hotter to keep things inside the stove a bit cleaner. If I get shorter burn times, so be it. I',m not trying to set records here. We had a cold snap last week where the temps were sub zero for highs and lows. The stove did well by keeping it a good 75 plus degrees inside as long as the stove was going at a good pace with the fan running. My wood is 95% red oak seasoned at least 8-10 years. Good luck in your search,
 
This is the first season using the Boxer 24. My first cat stove despite burning wood exclusively since '87 and the 5th wood stove I've owned overall. I have one stove in a outbuilding, a wood furnace in my basement and now the Boxer on the main level of my 1300 sq ft home. The Boxer's purpose is to make my life a bit easier by not using my wood furnace unless I really need to. The furnace works great and overheats my house in temp a Minnesota cold snap can muster up.

First off, the price. Locally, I saw the Boxer for the first time this fall when looking at stoves. It caught my eye because it stood tall compared to most stoves perched on top of platforms to make them appear taller than they really are, the price tag was 5k. But more than I would spend on a stove alone. The price was equal to the other BK 30 size stoves. My search took me 150 miles north where I saw the Boxer for 4k, and a demo model for $3300, used one season on the showroom floor. At that price it was cheaper than the smaller BK 20 size units, plus it was broke in, no smells to deal with.

My impressions. The odd size box to me isnt a issue other than the overall height, N/S the stove is 17" long. The overall height is limited by the cat taking up a lot of real estate in the center of the stove. With a coal bed taking up a few inches of height on the bottom, it limits how high splits can be stacked. It would take some narrow splits stacked on top of the bottom row of wood to pack the stove full. Something I really dont do. I just pack as much wood as I can get in comfortably which will give me a overnight burn. As far as heat output, I found the stove itself doesnt give a lot of radiant heat, unlike any other stove I've had. The blower fan must be used to push the heat between the double walls. I have a ceiling fan in my living room to keep air moving which helps when i'm not running the blower fan. I've never been big on background noise of any kind in my home so having to use the fan is a negative imo. Turning the thermostat way down to the lowest setting doesnt produce much heat. Using the blower fan in the lowest setting seems to outweigh any heat the stove is putting out. The lowest setting it will also mess up the glass window big time. So I tend to burn it a bit hotter to keep things inside the stove a bit cleaner. If I get shorter burn times, so be it. I',m not trying to set records here. We had a cold snap last week where the temps were sub zero for highs and lows. The stove did well by keeping it a good 75 plus degrees inside as long as the stove was going at a good pace with the fan running. My wood is 95% red oak seasoned at least 8-10 years. Good luck in your search,
Thanks Reaperman1, you've provided me with a wealth of real-world feedback to help in my decision-making. I too prefer to maintain a quiet space. I'm annoyed by the existing furnace ductwork that in undersized and noisy when operating.
 
Thanks Reaperman1, you've provided me with a wealth of real-world feedback to help in my decision-making. I too prefer to maintain a quiet space. I'm annoyed by the existing furnace ductwork that in undersized and noisy when operating.
My forced air LP furnace has a terribly annoying blower/ductwork noise. Blower speed is likely set to high?
Bad enough i feel the need to adjust the TV volume to offset the blower noise.
The BK blower noise for me is not even on the same wavelength. BK is much much quieter at the rate we run them (never over halfway). My experience fwiw.
 
My forced air LP furnace has a terribly annoying blower/ductwork noise. Blower speed is likely set to high?
Bad enough i feel the need to adjust the TV volume to offset the blower noise.
The BK blower noise for me is not even on the same wavelength. BK is much much quieter at the rate we run them (never over halfway). My experience fwiw.
Blower duct can be undersized (common), but blower speed is dependent on furnace output (temp rise) according to specs, usually 30-50F rise. Thanks for the info, I would likely have the blower set low/med as well when in use.
 
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