tabner
Feeling the Heat
do you have a STove Top Temp Gauge?
I'd be curious to know how hot you're running the actual stove top in that 7:45 photo. For me i think that'd be pushing an overfire
Help on Green mountain 60
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I'd be curious to know how hot you're running the actual stove top in that 7:45 photo. For me i think that'd be pushing an overfire
No, but I liked the look of yours, I think I'll get one. In the past I've used an infrared thermometer gun but I did not that night.
What max temp should I have? What are the consequences of an overfire? I guess I thought the exit gas temps would indicate if I was in the danger zone.
(Also, side note, I forgot I reduced the exposure on the 8:10 picture of the fire. It's a stop underexposed)
What max temp should I have? What are the consequences of an overfire? I guess I thought the exit gas temps would indicate if I was in the danger zone.
(Also, side note, I forgot I reduced the exposure on the 8:10 picture of the fire. It's a stop underexposed)
tabner
Feeling the Heat
I'm not sure how accurate/stable the relationship is between internal Flue and stove top temps, on different people's setups. It may depend on what type of wood, and the draft setup, etc. For me my stove top tends to run much higher than my exhaust gases (with the exception of the first 30 mins on a cold start). If I was at 800 inside the flue, i'd be over 800 on stove top.
Don't quote me on over fire temps exactly, but for a cast iron stove, i think what i've learned here is anything from 400 to 600 is very comfortable operating range, 600 to 750 is running hot but definitely still safe. over 750 you maybe want to avoid doing that too often cause you're pushing it. Someone like @begreen can maybe fact check me on those rough guidelines.
For stove top temps, that's a good guideline. If something is starting to glow, it's too hot. The consequences of overfiring the stove depend on how long and how frequently. Most stoves are fairly robust and can take a few hot forays as long as they are not for hours. Signs of overfiring will vary with the stove design. A typical visual cue is the paint turning a chalky grey or white. Other symptoms can be warped and sagging internal parts, cracks, weld pops, etc.
Thanks for the heads up. I didn't read the stove top temps (with the infared thermometer) when I let it get that hot the day of those photos. In fact it was intentional because mdocod suggested I the 750+ Flue temps are needed to start burning soot, and I thought it could use a hard burn.
Yesterday when tabner, mentioned this, my cat temps were 3/4 the way to "too hot" and my stove top read at 600. I'll keep an eye on that.
Yesterday when tabner, mentioned this, my cat temps were 3/4 the way to "too hot" and my stove top read at 600. I'll keep an eye on that.
That was an incorrect statement.
That sounds good actually. Are you measuring flue temps too?
He was very generous with his time helping me understand how to better care for my stove, although he did have a completely different stove that was much bigger it sounded. If the temperature he stated that is needed to burn soot is incorrect could you please correct it for me?
I want to make sure I bring my stove periodically up to a temperature required for good maintainence. The GM60 manual simply states, "To minimize creosote accumulation, run the stove on high once or twice daily for 35 to 45 minutes to fully heat the stovepipe and chimney" without giving any actual temperatures.
The equipped Cat Thermometer doesn't have actual temp readings on it but I do have the FlueGuard probe. The manual is even vague regarding cat temps. It simply states "Properly functioning [catalytic] combustors typically maintain temperatures in excess of 500 °F, and often reach temperatures in excess of 1,000 °F" while also stating elsewhere "The Green Mountain 60 typically operates in the 800F to 1300 F range." So it's hard to tell where the "active" range begins temperature-wise on the included thermometer.
It's entirely possible I'm reading into this too much, but want to learn to have good practices to get the most from my investment.
Yes, I recently bought a FlueGuard (I mentioned above) to help me have a better picture of what's going on.
One individual's setup and practices do not make them universal.
There are a number of ways to keep creosote accumulation down. Creosote forms when the vapors coming off the fresh wood load are able to condense on the interior of the chimney pipe. Keeping those vapors (wood smoke) above 250º all the way up to the chimney cap.
Burning only fully seasoned wood is the most important step. Excess water vapor cools the wood smoke. Is there double-wall stovepipe installed on the stove? If so, that also is a good step toward keeping creosote buildup down. An insulated interior chimney system is going to keep flue gases hotter throughout the flue system. Starting with a hot fire before turning down the air is a good general practice, but it doesn't mean you need 750º+ flue temperatures to do this unless you have a poor setup with a long run of single-wall stove pipe or a cold exterior chimney.
Stove manuals give general advice because the stove may be installed in a wide variety of situations from mild to cold climates, short to tall chimneys, interior vs exterior flues, varying flue sizes, varying wood supply, and varying operation by the owner. It's better to learn how one's specific system runs. Initially, it's a good idea to clean the chimney once for every cord burned. This will give you an idea of how much creosote is accumulating. Then you can decide on how serious or not the accumulation is. If the wood is dry, and the stove is properly run on a 6" interior flue system with double-wall stove pipe, you may find only a cupful of soot and creosote generated in a full season of burning. If the stove is venting out to a cold, say 8" masonry flue and the wood is marginal, then the same stove may generate a gallon of creosote.
Sorry for the long explanation, but I hope it helps. Keep asking questions.
There are a number of ways to keep creosote accumulation down. Creosote forms when the vapors coming off the fresh wood load are able to condense on the interior of the chimney pipe. Keeping those vapors (wood smoke) above 250º all the way up to the chimney cap.
Burning only fully seasoned wood is the most important step. Excess water vapor cools the wood smoke. Is there double-wall stovepipe installed on the stove? If so, that also is a good step toward keeping creosote buildup down. An insulated interior chimney system is going to keep flue gases hotter throughout the flue system. Starting with a hot fire before turning down the air is a good general practice, but it doesn't mean you need 750º+ flue temperatures to do this unless you have a poor setup with a long run of single-wall stove pipe or a cold exterior chimney.
Stove manuals give general advice because the stove may be installed in a wide variety of situations from mild to cold climates, short to tall chimneys, interior vs exterior flues, varying flue sizes, varying wood supply, and varying operation by the owner. It's better to learn how one's specific system runs. Initially, it's a good idea to clean the chimney once for every cord burned. This will give you an idea of how much creosote is accumulating. Then you can decide on how serious or not the accumulation is. If the wood is dry, and the stove is properly run on a 6" interior flue system with double-wall stove pipe, you may find only a cupful of soot and creosote generated in a full season of burning. If the stove is venting out to a cold, say 8" masonry flue and the wood is marginal, then the same stove may generate a gallon of creosote.
Sorry for the long explanation, but I hope it helps. Keep asking questions.
This will be my first winter using a stove. I bought a GM60 around Sept last year and had it installed in April. I've run two fires in it so far. I haven't had near the trouble as some in this forum. But it could also be ignorance on my part and I just don't notice.
Here we have mostly hardwoods. I even bought some Osage Orange for this winter. It's plentiful around here. It will be interesting to see how it runs. I didn't get in a hurry during startup nor did I restrict air flow for at least an hour before closing things down. Waited until the initial burn was done and I had good coals before adding more and shutting things down.
It was still warm there next morning with some red coals in the fire box.
I'm also planning on having an outside air intake installed in a week or two. Hopefully that will help with any drafting issues that may occur. So far so good.
Here we have mostly hardwoods. I even bought some Osage Orange for this winter. It's plentiful around here. It will be interesting to see how it runs. I didn't get in a hurry during startup nor did I restrict air flow for at least an hour before closing things down. Waited until the initial burn was done and I had good coals before adding more and shutting things down.
It was still warm there next morning with some red coals in the fire box.
I'm also planning on having an outside air intake installed in a week or two. Hopefully that will help with any drafting issues that may occur. So far so good.
