That's not below freezing, but below zero. Like -20 and windy. I'm pretty sure any stove would have a hard time keeping up. Not that the house is cold, but upper 60s feels cold when it's usually 75.
Heats How Many Square Feet?
- Thread starter MovingOffGrid
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
That's not below freezing, but below zero. Like -20 and windy. I'm pretty sure any stove would have a hard time keeping up. Not that the house is cold, but upper 60s feels cold when it's usually 75.
Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
I'm having a summit put in the end of the month. Sounds like a very good stove . What r ur average room temps when it gets really cold out? Don't mean to jump in , but thought I'd ask a few questions if y'all don't mind
My house is 1250 sq ft down and 1250 sq ft up - stove is on lower floor - central chimney (definite plus) with some passive brick heat storage that radiates into upstairs - R20 in walls and R40 in ceiling - double glazed windows - good perimeter slab insulation on sides and underneath - I know because I built the house.
Sorry no exact temps but a rough gauge would be on the very coldest nights downstairs (-20 F), it's always shirt sleeve toasty warm (too hot standing directly in front of stove for long) when burning 24/7, as long as I don't miss a beat reloading the stove and timing the burn down of the coal bed before last re-fill at night (hence my quest for longer burn times).
Getting airflow upstairs is just fine in shoulder season for a comfortable shirt sleeve temp, but in dead of winter upstairs has a few spots that are cool and wifey will wear a light fleece jacket and fluffy slipper boots - but overall house stays cozy warm and with me at home office, furnace is seldom used.
Every home has its own challenges when trying to spread radiant heat to different areas all from one location. An accommodating house design and some practical methods to move warm air around to most of the rooms is just as essential as a strong stove and good insulation. Scandinavian homes were traditionally built around a central chimney - in my experience, central chimney makes a big difference.
Which Summit did you buy? What's your layout like?
Last edited:
Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
I bought the reg summit , no fan on stove( yet) , our home was originally a basement home and the upper part of the house was added on so it's pretty open . I can see stove from dining room. We have a buck 27000 rite now and it can be 80+ degrees in the house ( upstairs mostly) , we have ceiling fans so well use them to help circulate the heat. I can always get a blower if need be. That 80+ degrees is with 3-4 splits but the buck needs fed about every 1.5 hours and don't let it go out before you wake up cause it'll be cold with no coals after 4-6 hrs. It's a good heater I just want longer burn time and a radiant stove for when the power goes out
I have the pedestal Summit as well. I have no experience with a buck stove but you will have to feed the Summit as well. Perhaps not as often as you are now, but I want longer burn times and that;s why I started this thread, to find out which stove can put out max BTU's like the Summit, but also provides large firebox and less reloading intervals. So far jury is still out on new Large Regency Cat/Hybrids and BKing gives no stats on max BTU's but I am guessing it is still the one to beat.
Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
I figured we'd have to feed it just not as often. If I could afford it I'd get a bk king ultra or the regency 5100 . Have talked to a few about the regency and it sounds like a good heater as wells as the bk. when it gets real cold just gonna have to use good seasoned wood and that's all I have anyway, we have lots of hard wood in Indiana .
Ya $3500 for the Regency F5100 here - not cheap.
For a non cat stove I think the Summit rates near the top of the list.
I'd like to hear how the Summit works out for you compared to your Buck. Real hardwood well seasoned is a plus for sure.
Cheers
For a non cat stove I think the Summit rates near the top of the list.
I'd like to hear how the Summit works out for you compared to your Buck. Real hardwood well seasoned is a plus for sure.
Cheers
Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
It's $3900 here for the regency and the bk is rite behind it. I was thinking next year maybe put in a cc aspen or small jotul in the kitchen for a cook top and a few xtra heating horses
$3900 - yikes.
They make Regency around my neck of the woods so I assume that's the difference in cost.
Ya I think a second small stove would be a better investment if your home/wife can handle 2 stoves
Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
Your shorter burn times may be due to the older EBT design. I have the same firebox with the same wood and am getting better burn times, but my EBT intake hole is closed off with aluminum tape. FWIW, I get the best burn times with thick, well seasoned, doug fir splits (8-9"), but also try to keep a stash of madrona, fruit wood and locust on hand for the very cold days.
The heat is going somewhere. Are there a lot of recessed can lights? Leaky attic door? Poor door seals?
when did the newer EBT come into effect and how does it differ?
I have thought about taping mine as well ... may do it this year. What did you notice after you taped it?
The new EBT is now relocated to the rear of the stove and it controls secondary air via a draft regulator. It started showing up in Summit B's last year. The old model EBT fed the boost manifold pointing to the base of the fire. It was designed to burn off large blooms of wood gas efficiently, which it did, but at the cost of burn time. It also made the stove a bit more dramatic to operate with certain loads of wood. Temp spikes in the 750-800F range were seen on our stove. Normally I am not a big proponent of stove mods, but this made a positive difference, YMMV. With the old EBT blocked off it now just gets up to temp and cruises. No more flareups. I like the new EBT design a lot better, it reduces secondary air as the draft weakens later in the burn cycle. but it would be a challenge to retrofit.
(broken link removed)
(broken link removed)
Thanks - just taped mine off and looking forward to seeing how she performs this year. Too bad a retrofit is not easily do-able - the newer solution feeding only the secondary burn is what it should have been from the get-go. damn!
Glad that I am not the only one experiencing this. When I started to burn a lot of pine I had that boost air go crazy on me a few times. Since that adds additional heat to the lower burn zone I am wondering whether that leads to an even quicker outgassing of the wood fueling the fire even more. I think it is a good idea they changed that design. I was contemplating reducing the hole that feeds the air into the boost air manifold. Anyone tried that?
The Super does not have the same configuration. There is no EBT on that insert. Boost air is primarily for starting fires. If one is using good dry kindling and dry cord wood boost air is superfluous IMO. One could try blocking it off with tape or a magnet to see if there is a noticeable change. Some 30NC folks have done this with good results. I don't think I'd do this if the wood isn't fully seasoned or the chimney is short.
The way PE describes the boost air you would think it gets turned off with the primary air but that is not the case, at least with my insert. I cannot really reach the inlet from the outside and thus need to close/reduce the hole in the channel. I doubt that tape or a magnet would withstand the temps. I will see if I can come up with something and if that makes the stove more controllable.
- Status
Similar threads
