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Hard to believe that a 2.3 box wouldn't suffice, given his level of insulation and air-sealedness.
Yeah, I saw that, Regency has a couple that project from the plane of the fireplace opening quite a ways..great if his location is subject to power outages.

It’s a 1.7 cu ft burn box on the Morgan. Unless you’re referring to the size of a new insert.
 
If it will fit, look at 3 cu ft. fireplaces. Do you know your fireplace dimensions including depth (top and bottom)?

Are you sticking with a flush insert or would one that projects further out onto the hearth be ok? This might mean adding a hearth extension, but more radiant heat and better convection too.

To get exact measurements I’ll have to take the insert out but it’s roughly 22” high x 39” wide x 23“ deep. I’m definitely not opposed to one that projects forward, we have 3 ft of tile on the floor as well as roughly 10” slab directly under the fire so should be fine for clearances.
 
On a side note since I disassembled and cleaned the stove last weekend it has been substantially warmer in our house. I’m wondering if the baffle got knocked out of position at some point when loading and it was restricting air flow? There really wasn’t any substantial build up or anything that I saw during cleaning but the wood has actually been burning and producing heat since it was reassembled. Before that we were having to leave the door unlatched and the damper wide open just to get visible flame.
 
It’s a 1.7 cu ft burn box on the Morgan. Unless you’re referring to the size of a new insert.
Yeah, I'm guessing that 2.3 would be plenty big for your new rig, given the weatherization you've done..it's only a guess though.
To get exact measurements I’ll have to take the insert out but it’s roughly 22” high x 39” wide x 23“ deep. I’m definitely not opposed to one that projects forward, we have 3 ft of tile on the floor as well as roughly 10” slab directly under the fire so should be fine for clearances.
You'll need those measurement to know for sure what will fit. Plus depth from the bottom and top of the fireplace opening, and width in the back, where masonry fireplaces may narrow.
On a side note since I disassembled and cleaned the stove last weekend it has been substantially warmer in our house. I’m wondering if the baffle got knocked out of position at some point when loading and it was restricting air flow?
May well have been. Good job, taking care in putting it back together. Hey, we can't always remember all the stuff to ask..or I can't anyway. ;lol
 
To get exact measurements I’ll have to take the insert out but it’s roughly 22” high x 39” wide x 23“ deep. I’m definitely not opposed to one that projects forward, we have 3 ft of tile on the floor as well as roughly 10” slab directly under the fire so should be fine for clearances.
Good, that means there are several options. An insert that projects into the room more will heat better, especially with the blower off.
On a side note since I disassembled and cleaned the stove last weekend it has been substantially warmer in our house. I’m wondering if the baffle got knocked out of position at some point when loading and it was restricting air flow?
Possible, but somewhat dubious. Usually, that leads to less constriction as the flue gases bypass the baffle and head straight up the flue. Maybe that load of wood was drier? It could also be that there has been an improvement in starting and loading technique
 
The wood is definitely no different from before. In hindsight it was really hard getting the baffle out and much easier getting it in after so I do think it was jammed. Either way I’m glad it’s producing some heat now. Meeting with the manager I purchased from tomorrow so we’ll see what happens.
 
Well I met with the stove provider today, he offered me $1300 for the insert which we paid $4200 for 15 months ago. Looks like we’ll be sticking with what we have for now and hoping the modifications I make in the warmer season will help. Thanks for all your advice and expertise, appreciate it.
 
  • Wow
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Did you pay $4200 for just the insert or for the insert, liner and installation? The actual insert should have been more like $2600. If so the store is offering 50% which is not unfair.

It sounds like adding an insulated block-off plate and maybe some insulation behind the insert + good, dry firewood will make a good difference and a better heating experience.
 
Did you pay $4200 for just the insert or for the insert, liner and installation? The actual insert should have been more like $2600. If so the store is offering 50% which is not unfair.

It sounds like adding an insulated block-off plate and maybe some insulation behind the insert + good, dry firewood will make a good difference and a better heating experience.
No the total bill for fireplace installed was $5980, just the insert was $4200. Sounds like I got gouged.
 
Looks like we’ll be sticking with what we have for now and hoping the modifications I make in the warmer season will help. Thanks for all your advice and expertise, appreciate it.
Yeah, at some point you just have to bite the bullet and go for a while with what you already have invested. As has been said, wet wood is your main problem right now. If you get some lightweight, quick-drying wood split and stacked now, you'll be good for this fall. Overnight burns won't be great with this type of wood, but you'll get by.
Also stack some higher-BTU stuff this summer, like hard (Sugar) Maple, for the subsequent winters.
With that wood, and more experience loading and running your stove, plus your efficient house, I still think you can get enough heat from it, and an overnight burn where room temp won't drop all that much..