It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with the stove, though I agree that I like the gasket to be on the door. Have you tried using RTV to adhere the gasket?
Have you seen stoves that use RTV in that instance? It might work on the stove body, but it gets a lot hotter than the door-frame gasket which is shielded by the stove body. That said, I've seen RTV at the auto parts store that's rated for 850 intermittent so it
might hold. I've also seen 1000 degree stuff at a stove shop, but it's a specialty item and you have to buy a big caulk tube, I think.
A bigger one would definitely have been the way to go as now I’m not sure if we want a bigger fireplace or a stove instead.
What do you mean, "a bigger fireplace"...a bigger "fireplace insert?"
If you stuff a free-standing stove into a masonry fireplace, you'll need that block-off plate for sure. If the (masonry?) chimney is on an outside wall, it will also help to insulate the fireplace to keep the bricks from conducting radiant heat off the stove, out into the vastness of space. I have such a fireplace..at least I have the rear heat shield for the stove, so that's helping some.
A free-standing stove that leans more toward convective heat (it heats air) would be better in a fireplace than a more radiant stove (heats objects.)
I don't like blower noise either, but a blower will help. You just have to do your research and find a brand that has quiet blowers and run them on low.
But here again, we've come full circle, back to the ultra-insulated house. You should be able to easily heat that open layout with a stove, without a blower. You have no idea where you presently stand, until you get some dry wood to try, or some of the compressed-chip bricks from a farm store or the like.
You still haven't told us how arctic the tundra is where you live. Maybe you're in a government witness-protection program, and loathe to reveal your location?