Harmon P35i fire plate rattling?

[tobaccogrower]

This is driving me crazy! Started 1st bag this season. (2.3 tons to date). I believe the Flame diverted plate behind the burn pot is the culprit. Starts as soon as the stove heats up. Flames come up, rattling starts, flames die down, it goes away. Almost seems like the plate may be warped,but appears to be flat. When i slide the plate in behind the firebox, it doesn’t lock in tight. Slides easily back and fourth at the top a half inch or so. Cleaned,scraped, brushed everything clean but no avail. OAK is clean, all blowers clean and operating properly. Stove has been totally deep cleaned 3 times this season. Also worth noting problem occurs in constant burn or room temp.
It’s so loud it’s hard to hear tv when it happens.
Burning Wood and Sons white pine. Tried other brands and same thing. This is stoves 3rd season.

Thoughts?

 

[Whitenuckler]

Is everything quiet when in test mode and the stove is cold?

 

[tobaccogrower]

Wisper quiet

 

[Whitenuckler]

Wisper quiet

If you suspect that flame guide, perhaps you can use a bit of heavy duty tin foil to fill in the gaps. You would need to get it back out of there once the test is done as it could melt eventually

 

[tobaccogrower]

Gets a lot louder than this. Of course it’s shy when I’m taking a video. It’s after the auger feeds into the burn pot.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Gets a lot louder than this. Of course it’s shy when I’m taking a video. It’s after the auger feeds into the burn pot.

Sounds like a metal panel vibrating. Does it only vibrate if the auger is turning?
Was only the combustion blower running at the time, and no auger? If so maybe the combustion blower fan blades are dirty or the bearing are gone, or the whole thing came loose? Other than that check all the panels to make sure they are tight

 

[tobaccogrower]

After the auger feeds, the flames ramp up and the noise starts. Continues after the auger has stopped. Combustion motor and fan is a few weeks old. Bearings were getting loud so I know it’s not that. Can i run the stove for a hour or so without the flame plate safely? That would eliminate the plate theory

 

[Whitenuckler]

After the auger feeds, the flames ramp up and the noise starts. Continues after the auger has stopped. Combustion motor and fan is a few weeks old. Bearings were getting loud so I know it’s not that. Can i run the stove for a hour or so without the flame plate safely? That would eliminate the plate theory

I would rather you use some tin foil in the slot to tighten things up snug for a test run, then remove the foil.
Did you clean the panel wall behind the combustion blower fan blade? I have not done this yet but I understand you can keep the fan on the shaft and use a putty knife. I guess you probably already did if you changed the blower.
You may have to slide it out and check when you can hold pressure on all the external panels to see if it goes away.

 

[Ssyko]

That is a fan blade hitting a gasket or something. Pull the exhaust blower and check the blade

 

[Ssyko]

Did iit make the noise before the combustion blower change?

 

[tobaccogrower]

It did make the noise before the combustion blower/blade change. Yes, i scraped and vacuumed everything behind and around that area. I’ll try the tin foil tonight. I’m betting something is warped. Maybe the burn pot? It’s all straight forward putting the top plate on the burn pot then sliding in the flame plate. Only goes in one way. IDK
Manual is sitting right here in front of me.

 

[Whitenuckler]

It did make the noise before the combustion blower/blade change. Yes, i scraped and vacuumed everything behind and around that area. I’ll try the tin foil tonight. I’m betting something is warped. Maybe the burn pot? It’s all straight forward putting the top plate on the burn pot then sliding in the flame plate. Only goes in one way. IDK
Manual is sitting right here in front of me.

"It’s all straight forward putting the top plate on the burn pot"

What is this top plate? Is that the igniter hole cover? It really sounds like a panel vibrating. Could there be something in back vibrating where the vent tee ect are? Can you press down on any panels/areas and it goes away?

 

[Washed-Up]

I’ll put money on that being a fan blade on the combustion blower…it’s not uncommon for the blades to get covered with dust and become unbalanced. That is where I would start. Keep us posted.

 

[tobaccogrower]

This is the loose plate. Tried rolling tin foil up last night and wedged behind the plate, Still banging.
I’ll double check the combustion fan. It’s a brand new motor and blade less than a month old. Did it before the replacement and still does it.

 

[Whitenuckler]

This is the loose plate. Tried rolling tin foil up last night and wedged behind the plate, Still banging.
I’ll double check the combustion fan. It’s a brand new motor and blade less than a month old. Did it before the replacement and still does it.

Now I know what the top plate is. Mine has a firebrick. You are right that fits loose.
Maybe clean and inspect your original fan blade and try that. Spin it by hand and make sure it is not touching. If they used balance weights see if they fell off. If you have a spare shaft of some kind mount the fan blade in a drill and watch it spin (slow speed)
Or bench test a fan and motor on the workbench mounted on a vice or wood and check vibration.

 

[Ssyko]

I would pull the plate out and inspect it to see if warpage is the culprit. Does it just sit in behind the flame guild? If its warped, some damn good flame to warp a 1/4” plate steel, so we know it has good fire 😏

 

[Whitenuckler]

I would pull the plate out and inspect it to see if warpage is the culprit. Does it just sit in behind the flame guild? If its warped, some damn good flame to warp a 1/4” plate steel, so we know it has good fire 😏

Yes he has a video posted and it shows the steel plate behind/above the flame guide. Take a look, it is very loose for sure. It is called steel frame guide extension and has to be installed curving in. Install manual page 21

 

[Ssyko]

I saw the video, the vibration sounds to fast for a plate to move on its own that why i was thinking fan blade.

 

[tobaccogrower]

Ok, maybe I found the problem?
After pulling the stove back out and re checking everything I noticed the door doesn’t close flat on the face of the firebox. The bottom of the door latch side is significantly farther out than the top. Hinge side its even. Maybe it’s like this from the factory? I’ve never noticed. I have not done the dollar bill trick yet. Ill do it today after i shut it down.
I did some messing with the latch. When the stove is rattling like crazy, if i lift the latch so it doesn’t fully disengage, the rattling stops. Maybe the latch needs to be adjusted? I cant find anything in the manual to do so. I’ll check it out today. I’m going to replace the door gasket this week. It’s supposed to be in the upper 60’s here. Good time to get this squared away.

 

[tobaccogrower]

Pic’s

 

[Whitenuckler]

Pic’s

I think there could be three issues. The first could be the gasket. It may be need to be replaced. The door hinges could be worn. The latch assembly may be worn or something loose. Once the door is closed, you should be able to barely drag a dollar bill through. And there should be nothing rattling or loose. That could affect operation too if the door is not making a seal.

 

[Ssyko]

More than likely its from welding as it was assembled. Thats the purpose of the gaskets, they make up the distance. You could open the door a foot then give it a manual twist clockwise to bend it back some.

 

[tobaccogrower]

Dollar bill test failed. Gasket replacement time. Latch doesn’t look like it’s adjustable. Anyone know the diameter of the door gasket? No Harmon dealers anywhere near me anymore. Local pellet store has various thicknesses. Id like to have it in hand before i take the old one off.

 

[NS P-68]

It should be a 3/8 diameter gasket