Harman Tl 300 Question

[branchburner]

I hear the woosh though.

That's usually what I go by. I check the surface temps on the stove's rear burn chamber, and it usually confirms what the whooshing tells me: no whoosh means no AB, and temp in the 300-400 range; a steady, low whoosh means good AB function, and temp in the 500-800 range.

My biggest problem lately is the AB sometimes stalls out a while after I cut the air back to 1/4, so I may have ash buildup. I used to be able to close the primary air 100% and still get a long, steady secondary burn

 

[CRE10]

I got something wrong, just not sure what until I more than likely take everything apart. I think tomorrow I will try to order replacement parts and whatnot.

It's just frustrating because this year I feel like I have much better wood supply and in the past two months I've been taking further precautions to make sure wood is dry and suitable.

I would not think that adding 1' of chimney pipe would throw it off so it has to be something internally in the stove.

 

[branchburner]

I would not think that adding 1' of chimney pipe would throw it off so it has to be something internally in the stove.

Should make it better, not worse.

Did you remove the show brick when you cleaned the stove? You shouldn't need a new CP at $275 for at least a few years of operation, hopefully more.

You might try pulling and cleaning the AB, or even just running a few days with higher flue temps, before ordering parts. When you reload on a good bed of coals, open up the air and let that external flue temp push 600 (internal 1000+) for a few minutes before closing the bypass, and see if the AB kicks in.

Do you step the air back gradually after closing the bypass? Shutting the air too far / too fast can stall the AB pretty easily for me.

 

[CRE10]

I ran it up to 900 degrees last night and had it on the 3rd notch for air flow to make sure it was good and hot.

I tried calling the shop I bought it from a few times, but no answer. I think my shoe brick gasket needs to be replaced, but surely that wouldn't throw it off this much?

On this gasket kit, the solid rectangle gasket is that for the rear of the firedome where the metal stove plates bolts it in?

(broken link removed to http://www.hechlers.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_126_128&products_id=1270)

I'm thinking of ordering the shoe brick gasket, and the AB gasket kit that way when I pull it apart I have everything on hand besides the big ticket AB. Then as a last resort if it is bad then I can order one up.

I can swallow $100 in gaskets, but not wanting to spend $400 up front for a new AB if I don't need it.

 

[branchburner]

On this gasket kit, the solid rectangle gasket is that for the rear of the firedome where the metal stove plates bolts it in?

(broken link removed to http://www.hechlers.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_126_128&products_id=1270)

I think that is the base gasket for the newer version of the CP. The larger rectangle looks attached to the two smaller ones, which I think are for the same purpose as these ones sold separately, for the older CP:
(broken link removed to http://www.hechlers.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_126_128&products_id=918)

 

[CRE10]

I think that is the base gasket for the newer version of the CP. The larger rectangle looks attached to the two smaller ones, which I think are for the same purpose as these ones sold separately, for the older CP:
(broken link removed to http://www.hechlers.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_126_128&products_id=918)

I think that's correct.

I called and talked to them. The owner of the store is very very nice. Gaskets are on order.

Now I just hope my stove has the newer CP It should with it being 3 years old.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

The by pass door gets loose over time,and looser yet when its hot. i have mine adjusted as tight as i can get it. I could see if that was leaking bad it would cause you problems.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

I dont think you need a new Combustion package already unless you damaged it somehow.

 

[CRE10]

And the plot thickens. Ok so I burned for two years with minimal creosote and no tar like substance on the rain cap. I'm only 1.5' above peak now so this year I added a 1' section to be by the book to be at least 2' above any peak within 10' and to see if it would draft better (not that I wasn't drafting well already). Sunday I removed that 1' section because that is the only difference this year. I feel like this year I have better quality stacked wood versus the first two years.

I fired it up to 900 flue temp this morning then engaged the bypass and it leveled to 400 flue temp. I then ran it to 900 again and once again it leveled to 400. I could distinctly hear the whoosh and air noises much more with my lowered height. As for the pics you can see, no smoke. The probe thermometer has 400-900 as ideal for creosote build up.

This was just one morning, but I still feel like something isn't right even though it worked well today. I need to play with it more and I still have the gaskets on order.

 

[mellow]

Really cold temps outside could make up that difference and then some.