no, not for the travel time. They do reimburse for warranted parts, and a small amount for labor ($50?). Harman contends that the original selling dealer should factor in possible warranty issues into the selling price to offset some of these costs. Therefore, if the dealer who is fixing the unit isnt the original selling dealer, its not uncommon to see then charge for a service call, even if the unit is under warranty. Harman will will reimburse for parts in that situation though.
harman P43 pellet stove won't light
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no, not for the travel time. They do reimburse for warranted parts, and a small amount for labor ($50?). Harman contends that the original selling dealer should factor in possible warranty issues into the selling price to offset some of these costs. Therefore, if the dealer who is fixing the unit isnt the original selling dealer, its not uncommon to see then charge for a service call, even if the unit is under warranty. Harman will will reimburse for parts in that situation though.
I had an issue with mine the other day same thing, I did call my dealer she told me to take the plate of and clean out where the ignitor is, I had done that right before new years day when I cleaned the stove. I borrowed a customer inspection camera and took the plate off and found it looked clean, but tapped the pot to know anything loose out and then discovered I had a lot of ash laying on the lip towards the back of the pot where the air comes into it, I cleaned a lot of ash from this area and it relit and no problems.
As for my dealer she is at least 35 minutes away, and said she could send someone out or I could bring the old ignitor in and she would give me a new one, same with my distribution blower, which ,makes noise on the high end.
I am very happy with my stove and even the dealer so far.
I did pick up the hand sanitizer that someone on here mentioned for getting it started manually.
As for my dealer she is at least 35 minutes away, and said she could send someone out or I could bring the old ignitor in and she would give me a new one, same with my distribution blower, which ,makes noise on the high end.
I am very happy with my stove and even the dealer so far.
I did pick up the hand sanitizer that someone on here mentioned for getting it started manually.
mepellet
Minister of Fire
You don't have to wait for the stove to get running to flip it to manual. After the igniter light illuminates you can flip it to manual.
Lerxst
Member
Got a problem, happened right when i switched pellet brands. Early this season i was burning leftover "Platinum Pellets" from last year, did so for a month. The stove works perfect. This year i ordered "Blazers" which the pellet company states "Blazers / now Packsaddle" Douglas Fir pellets. Started burning them with the old brand still in the hopper, so it ignited the old brand, new brand came in burned fine.
Problem is the new brand will not ignite. it has a shiny finish on the pellets. Everything is clean clean, tried everything in this thread. Any suggestions getting a difficult pellet to ignite.
Loaded 3 tons of these in my basement, and do not want to return them.
Problem is the new brand will not ignite. it has a shiny finish on the pellets. Everything is clean clean, tried everything in this thread. Any suggestions getting a difficult pellet to ignite.
Loaded 3 tons of these in my basement, and do not want to return them.
railfanron
Minister of Fire
Make sure the latch assembly on the pellet hopper lid is tight. There is a small nut on the inside on the bottom of it that sometimes will loosen over time and causes the hopper to leak air and mess up the suction through the burnpot. That can cause funny/ no light situations. Sounds stupid but believe me it gave me quite a headache before I found it.
Ron
Ron
Lake Girl
Moderator
Blazers went out of business so not to sure Packsaddle is anywhere near the same pellet but may be made at the former blazers mill.
Your supplier told you that?
Lerxst
Member
I ordered online, that's what the website said.
I'm starting to think its not the pellets.
They are lighting up intermittently.
I got them to light by cleaning the stoves compartment that you get to by going in the bottom right hand side, and loosening the wing nut, and taking that door out.
But after a few burns, its back to not lighting.
I'm starting to think its not the pellets.
They are lighting up intermittently.
I got them to light by cleaning the stoves compartment that you get to by going in the bottom right hand side, and loosening the wing nut, and taking that door out.
But after a few burns, its back to not lighting.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Take the time to do a real deep clean on the stove. You've checked the ESP to make sure it is clean, pulled the exhaust blower to clean that pathway and replaced gasket, cleaned around the igniter behind the plate? I'm not 100% sure of the exhaust pathway set up but use brushes and a flexible house on mine to get to all recessed exhaust pathways.
Exhaust blower making any usual noises? Igniter is glowing as it should? Checked gaskets on doors (hopper too if it is gasketted) by dollar bill test?
Exhaust blower making any usual noises? Igniter is glowing as it should? Checked gaskets on doors (hopper too if it is gasketted) by dollar bill test?
Lerxst
Member
ESP and exhaust is very clean, I used my ash vac attachment that is really thin and has the brush at the end. I clean the igniter behind the plate weekly.
Gasket behind the igniter plate? Which igniter plate? In front the plate with 2 wing nuts has no gasket (never has never thought it was supposed to.)
Door and hopper gasket I will check.
How do you tell if the igniter is glowing. I mean I can't see it. The pellets show signs of charring. So it's doing something.
Gasket behind the igniter plate? Which igniter plate? In front the plate with 2 wing nuts has no gasket (never has never thought it was supposed to.)
Door and hopper gasket I will check.
How do you tell if the igniter is glowing. I mean I can't see it. The pellets show signs of charring. So it's doing something.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Harman usually have a test mode to ensure all components are working ... check the manual. If you don't haveone, it can be downloaded off their website under owner resources section.
Bioburner
Moderator
Lerxst, how old of stove? Trying to get idea as to what will contribute to your hard starting. If three years I would lay odds on door gaskets not as tight as they need to be. I forgot how many watts the stove has to pull to have a properly operating igniter. That's where a Kill o watt devise can tell you what the draw is to help diagnose things like bad igniters and motors failing. Good luck
Lerxst
Member
This is the stove's 3rd season at my house. When i purchased it, it was a floor model, at the stove store.
Never did a gasket before......easy?
Bioburner
Moderator
Pretty easy. Usually the first thing I do to a stove that I get used. Graphite impregnated rope gasket is great. A drill operated wire brush for about $5 to help route out the old adhesive and the rope kit with adhesive should be around $15 or less. 3/8 inch I believe. Less than half hour project for the main door and about the same for the ash bin door.
Lerxst
Member
Graphite impregnated rope gasket, got it....allready got a wire wheel and drill.
Who sells Graphite impregnated rope gasket?
like a boiler supply house?
Who sells Graphite impregnated rope gasket?
like a boiler supply house?
Lerxst
Member
Bioburner
Moderator
Bioburner
Moderator
bogieb
Minister of Fire
This is probably it, or at least real close.
My money is on that there is some sort of obstruction to the air flow to below the pot. If your hand's are skinny enough, reach way back there under the pot. If you feel a mound of ash (which can be left even after a vacuum), clear that out with your fingers. Also, check your OAK (if you have one) and where the flapper is to the stove air intake. There may be something holding the flapper from opening properly, or something got into the OAK line.
Another thing to check is the igniter. You may have cleaned under the igniter, but bang on the pot with the scrapper while you have the cover off. More than likely you will see a whole bunch of ash come out. Bang on the pot until you no longer have that puff-cloud.
Lerxst
Member
Thanks BioB
bogieb at work right now, when I get home I'm checking way under my pot for any mounds of ash. I removed my OAK in my process of chasing down this problem, so access should be easy, I will check out the whole OAK line.
Did not mention before, but I removed my igniter (carefully) and cleaned it (never did it before). 2 or 3 fins were partially obstructed.
This morning the stove started up, slower than usual.
Thanks for the help everyone.
bogieb at work right now, when I get home I'm checking way under my pot for any mounds of ash. I removed my OAK in my process of chasing down this problem, so access should be easy, I will check out the whole OAK line.
Did not mention before, but I removed my igniter (carefully) and cleaned it (never did it before). 2 or 3 fins were partially obstructed.
This morning the stove started up, slower than usual.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Lerxst
Member
Update for everyone. Had the igniter replaced, I got the stove as a floor model, so the igniter that was in there was aftermarket. I now have the correct one in, working just fine for the past 2 1/2 months.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Weird that it was an aftermarket ignitor on a stove shop floor model... Great to hear it is working as it should! Glad you followed up.
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