So the auger motor I just pulled off does not spin freely. I also have an old auger motor that is in working condition (it was when I pulled it off about 6 months ago) and does not spin freely. Also, the auger itself I can turn by hand, so it is not seized up on the stove.
Harman Accentra 2 Free Standing (FS) - Blowing fuses / auger not moving
- Thread starter shubbah
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Good, but I don't understand why your new motor does not spin? Is that just a motor, or is there a gearbox attached? I don't remember if you have chain drive. I guess that "new"motor is the one that released some factory smoke, so I doubt if it can be returned, but do you remember if you ever turned it by hand? You still need an auger motor and a proper fused jumper. I can help you order something from Amazon, and give you a quick electrical lesson on what black (hot) and white (neutral) mean. To me it's easy as I do my own electrical.
The auger motor is 120 volts If it burnt up, it was bad
Maybe that's what is the cause of the fuse blowing
It is difficult to turn an auger motor by hand
Maybe that's what is the cause of the fuse blowing
It is difficult to turn an auger motor by hand
I appreciate all the input thus far and recognize I'm a bit out of my element in regards to anything electrical.
With that said, I intend to either test or have the two auger motors tested to determine if they're still in working order. What is interesting is I hooked up both auger motors to the stove and turned it on the test setting and still neither auger motors turn (the one I likely damaged), but the distribution and combustion fan appear to run fine. What also is surprising is that it hasn't blown any fuses in these last couple attempts. Perhaps its the igniter quick disconnects are no longer shorting due to taping them up, or something else that I'm unaware of.
Anyways, I think I will order some inline fuses to test both auger motors and move forward from there.
That is interesting. If you can purchase an inexpensive multi-meter then you can start testing the motor windings. Just look on Amazon for a multi meter that uses a 9V battery and has good ratings. The quick disconnects are normally insulated however if they were not then they would have needed tape for sure. Rory is my hero..if your into watching golf
Lets hope none of the motors draw more than 5 amp ( most draw .95-1.5 amp) the auger motor you will not be able to turn the shaft by hand it is gear driven. Does the old auger motor turn with the extension cord attached?
I think we are getting a bit off track on turning the auger motor by hand. I f this is what you have you can't turn the shaft by hand you have to plug it in. This is due to the gearbox as Ssyko has said. However, the chain driven shaft for the auger needs to be free and I know you have checked that a few times. I don't know if you want to retest the augers and try and determine why they blow fuses. Could be a burned out motor or jammed gearbox. If you can, try and unbolt the motor from the gearbox. Then you can spin the motor and the gearbox input shaft separately. I found a link to an auger motor. Is this what you had/have?
Harman Auger Motor XXV / Accentra / Advanced (3-20-08752)
This is the official OEM Harman Pellet Auger Motor. This part ships new in original Harman packaging. Applicable Harman Models Accentra FS (Pre serial #
friendlyfires.ca
That is CCW direction and 0.74 Amps Stalled/jammed amps would be about 4 amps which is why testing with a 15A breaker is dangerous as it will burn up. Really the fuse for testing it needs to be maybe 5 amps, and you need to watch it very closely to see if it turns. If it does not turn you need to unplug it.
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Harman Accentra 2 Free Standing (FS) - Blowing fuses / auger not moving](/talk/data/attachments/338/338349-d50fa02b36992159c55ba8d08a693ce3.jpg?hash=49DvG_a3KL)
![[Hearth.com] Harman Accentra 2 Free Standing (FS) - Blowing fuses / auger not moving](/talk/data/attachments/338/338350-7a682bee5ea8c68a5536c2919bd08a69.jpg?hash=E4fwWRO8SX)
Last edited:
Yes, the motor you linked is the same as the two I have for my Accentra FS (chain driven, runs CCW). One thing to note is I noticed I had the auger chain on the wrong side of the tensioner (outside). 🤦♂️Potentially could have put more strain on the auger motor causing it to fail/blow a fuse? The chain was snug, but not impossible to turn.I think we are getting a bit off track on turning the auger motor by hand. I f this is what you have you can't turn the shaft by hand you have to plug it in. This is due to the gearbox as Ssyko has said. However, the chain driven shaft for the auger needs to be free and I know you have checked that a few times. I don't know if you want to retest the augers and try and determine why they blow fuses. Could be a burned out motor or jammed gearbox. If you can, try and unbolt the motor from the gearbox. Then you can spin the motor and the gearbox input shaft separately. I found a link to an auger motor. Is this what you had/have?
Harman Auger Motor XXV / Accentra / Advanced (3-20-08752)
This is the official OEM Harman Pellet Auger Motor. This part ships new in original Harman packaging. Applicable Harman Models Accentra FS (Pre serial #
That is CCW direction and 0.74 Amps Stalled/jammed amps would be about 4 amps which is why testing with a 15A breaker is dangerous as it will burn up. Really the fuse for testing it needs to be maybe 5 amps, and you need to watch it very closely to see if it turns. If it does not turn you need to unplug it.
I am going to order some inline fuses on amazon and test both these auger motors with a 5A fuse as you've suggested.
I'm not sure about the chain position however if the chain is installed incorrectly and that causes increased load on the motor that could damage the motor. If you get a meter you can use ohms and check those motors with no power. It would be better to remove the motor from the gearbox if you can. I'm 100% certain you would blow more fuses the way is is now. You can get fuses that are the same as your control board (s) use also. Then fuse holder will say the size of fuse it holds.
Harman Control Board Fuse (5amp): 1-00-05237
Replacement Control Board Fuse for Harman Pellet Stove Models Advance, P43, P68, XXV, and More. Replacement Part Number 1-00-05237. Genuine Original Part. Included Warranty & Technical Support!
pellet-stove-parts-4less.com
I bought two of these for general testing. I have a $300 Fluke as my main meter
Last edited:
NS P-68
New Member
Insure you indeed have a CCW motor... verify the rotation... if its turning backwards your definitely going to blow the fuse
NS P-68
New Member
Use a test cord....
Plug in each motor individually
Either the motor will run or not
Don't worry about having a cord with a fuse...Your only using it for testing purposes... you'll know within 10 seconds if the motor is good or not.
Ssyko is trying to tell you...every time time you blow a fuse you risk compromising your circuit board ...that will get expensive...
Plug in each motor individually
Either the motor will run or not
Don't worry about having a cord with a fuse...Your only using it for testing purposes... you'll know within 10 seconds if the motor is good or not.
Ssyko is trying to tell you...every time time you blow a fuse you risk compromising your circuit board ...that will get expensive...
I tested both auger motors on a test cord with a 5A inline fuse. The old auger motor appears to work find and rotates very slow and the fan spins. Note: this motor is an old spare and was not on the stove when I was having the fuses blow. I did try installing it on the stove and it did not blow fuses, but the auger never rotated quickly to feed the stove in test mode.
The second auger motor blew the 5A fuse when I tested it. This was the motor installed on the stove when I had the original issue of blowing fuses. The motor was new and installed when I replaced the combustion motor about 6 months ago, so surprised it would possibly fail this quickly as its an OEM (Gleeson Avery) motor.
I'm going to test the combustion fan and distribution fan once I head back to my mothers (where the stove is) this weekend.
The second auger motor blew the 5A fuse when I tested it. This was the motor installed on the stove when I had the original issue of blowing fuses. The motor was new and installed when I replaced the combustion motor about 6 months ago, so surprised it would possibly fail this quickly as its an OEM (Gleeson Avery) motor.
I'm going to test the combustion fan and distribution fan once I head back to my mothers (where the stove is) this weekend.
Shoot I wish you had a new auger motor/gear box assembly to test. Seems to me that 6 month old one failed under warranty......
I don't know why it would spin slow, unless the gearbox was not working right. I have a new one and I can give you some measurements if you can get an ohmmeter. The problem with those units is that unless you take it apart you can't test each part. It also makes them very expensive. It's like buying a sump pump. You have to buy the motor and the pump.
This is a good video for most auger motor problems. This is going to come in handy for me too as it appears you take it apart to reverse direction (which I think I need to do with my new spare). Then if you don't torque the screws down correctly or have the bearing cap miss aligned that tiny motor will jam. When the motor jams it draws more current. The motor would then overheat. These simple motors don't have any protection built in. If your new spare was blowing the fuse right away, it didn't work properly when new. Everyone should try their motors (all of them) on the bench before installing. I'd even test the igniter. No use installing something that does sent work and may damage the control card too.
Similar threads
