Half-ton pickup redux

[Ashful]

That is for a P rated tire it can't be set to anything above 35# because it is a 4 ply tire. The ply of a tire dictates how much pressure it should be set to, see the attached chart. B is usually the same as a P rated tire.

My truck has 8 ply A/T tires that are max 80 psi. If I only put 40 psi in them it would be very dangerous hauling anything close to my trucks capacity. I usually run mine about 70 psi.

My understanding was that the weight of the vehicle also has a bearing on proper pressure setting. You can put 10-ply tires on a Dodge Neon, but you’re STILL not going to want to put 80 psi in them, or you’ll be riding on the center bead. The door sticker number is the pressure that was determined to be correct for the proper load rating tire on THAT vehicle. Putting higher ply-rated tires (they’re not actually rated in ply count anymore, another issue) on your vehicle does not increase its load rating, or necessitate higher pressure.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I’m not going to get in a pissing match over tire pressure, but a tire has a load specific pressure rating. Google “tire inflation table”. If it carries more weight, it needs more air, regardless of the tire construction. If a car puts x lbs on a tire, it needs y lbs of air. You don’t run around with 80 lbs of air in a daily driver. I run my truck tires at 40-50 lbs when not hauling because it rides better and I have enough air for a light load if I need it. If I’m loading heavy, it’s 80-100psi. I have had them up to 110 psi when running interstate with a heavy load to keep the tires cool and help with stability. I have E range tires in my truck.
The car gets 45-50 psi. This helps with mileage, handling, and hydroplaning. I don’t go abov 60 on a car.

 

[bholler]

That is for a P rated tire it can't be set to anything above 35# because it is a 4 ply tire. The ply of a tire dictates how much pressure it should be set to, see the attached chart. B is usually the same as a P rated tire.

My truck has 8 ply A/T tires that are max 80 psi. If I only put 40 psi in them it would be very dangerous hauling anything close to my trucks capacity. I usually run mine about 70 psi.

Yes i run my trucks at 80 psi but they have 10 plys and they call for 80 psi. He is talking about an escape unless he upped the load range of the tires it should be run at or a little above manufacturers recomended spec. Not to mention overinflating that much will wear out the center of the tire fast and give you a crappy ride.

 

[Jazzberry]

Remember back when steel radials first came out? They used a lot less air than bias. Looked like everyone had 4 tires that were going flat.

 

[blades]

Now they have those tires out with about a 2" sidewall on 30" rims stuck under what ever.

 

[Chas0218]

My understanding was that the weight of the vehicle also has a bearing on proper pressure setting. You can put 10-ply tires on a Dodge Neon, but you’re STILL not going to want to put 80 psi in them, or you’ll be riding on the center bead. The door sticker number is the pressure that was determined to be correct for the proper load rating tire on THAT vehicle. Putting higher ply-rated tires (they’re not actually rated in ply count anymore, another issue) on your vehicle does not increase its load rating, or necessitate higher pressure.

It does kind of but the weight of the vehicle won't change the psi within the tire. If you don't believe me try this experiment. Take the vehicles weight off wheel and tire of one of your vehicles fill it to a specific pressure say 30 psi. Put weight back on the wheel and tire it will remain the same pressure or very close (within .5 psi). The weight of the vehicle won't change the pressure rating unless you are talking big rig status. This is because the rubber tire displaces some of the air by flexing.

The other part of this is the weight of the vehicle and load range. Most passenger vehicles and small trucks will use a P rated tire (usually have a P or no letter on the side of the tire but have a LBS. rating) being that the vehicle won't always be carrying a heavy load. When you get into LT (light truck) or Load index ratings they do the same by specifying the load in lbs. or by ply (the chart I posted earlier). The heavier the vehicle and heavier payload rating call for heavier ply tire. Most half ton trucks would be fine with C rated tires, but if you do a lot of hauling and towing the stiffer sidewall of a heavier rated tire will help tame heavier loads.

You are right if he put 50psi in P rated tire he is just asking for trouble and you don't want to run a higher load rated tire at max pressure all the time unless you are constantly hauling or weighted down.

I will admit that I use my 1/2 ton more as a 3/4 ton so when it was time to replace my spring shackles and shagging springs I opted for a bit of an upgrade. I added a set of 3/4 ton springs, 3/4 ton shocks, and 3/4 ton rated tires (E range tire). This helped tremendously hauling firewood and towing trailers. Not to mention I get a lot less cupping and scaling effect on the tires with the heavier rated tires.

 

[blades]

Ok guys I spent about 2 hours wrapping my head around the dang near off the wall, convoluted, about as clear as mud, pressure tire rating, speed index, load rating, and what ever. So here is my rule of thumb for general use everyday driving take the max pressure listed on tire x 75% that will put you just about dead on. If going to be at max vehicle load try about 90% of max tire pressure- Now I am from the old school if my tires look like they are flat( bulging out at the bottom with a load on) I am increasing the pressure to where they stand about normal ( roughly 90% of max). Tire ply rating- that is just what it says but it does not mean that an E rated tire actually has 10 plies might only have 4 or 6 = the equivalent of the the old 10 ply but just to muck up the works some more there are now 2 classes of E rated tires. both rated 10 ply

So for all this hash.. the tires on my escape are 235/55/r17 99H . the 99 is 1709 lbs load the H is 130mph, from what I gather this a metric radial but no marking such as s or st- x or xl indicating standard load or heavy load load ( no marking indicates standard load supposedly) , but 1709/ is over the top for most anything rated s or x. Isn't this fun.
For all this, Yep I am running too much pressure at 49psi supposedly, ah, but if I have the 6x10 trailer back there with 1 ton load ( rated at 35xx tow capacity- got recheck tongue weight ) maybe not. You all have a great day. oh ya oem door sticker is 35 psi all around- with what ever was the as shipped tires on it.

 

[Jazzberry]

Now they have those tires out with about a 2" sidewall on 30" rims stuck under what ever.

Ya we got a few of that type up here. We get the "look at me crowd" from the valley with their monster trucks and rubber band tires. Especially during ski season. During the winter they must have a car and clothes contest at the local ski resort on the weekends.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

I will admit that I use my 1/2 ton more as a 3/4 ton so when it was time to replace my spring shackles and shagging springs I opted for a bit of an upgrade. I added a set of 3/4 ton springs, 3/4 ton shocks, and 3/4 ton rated tires (E range tire). This helped tremendously hauling firewood and towing trailers. Not to mention I get a lot less cupping and scaling effect on the tires with the heavier rated tires.

The weakest link in that setup now is your braking system. Sure a 1/2 ton can carry a lot of weight with the right tires. But can you stop it? I recently had to do a panic stop with 1 ton of cement blocks on my 3/4 ton truck to avoid an accident . No way would my 1/2 ton truck have stopped that fast with a ton of weight in the bed.

 

[bholler]

The weakest link in that setup now is your braking system. Sure a 1/2 ton can carry a lot of weight with the right tires. But can you stop it? I recently had to do a panic stop with 1 ton of cement blocks on my 3/4 ton truck to avoid an accident . No way would my 1/2 ton truck have stopped that fast with a ton of weight in the bed.

You also only have pretty chinsy retainer clips holding those axle shafts in place unlike most heavier trucks that are bolted in. And lighter bearings spindles fewer wheel studs etc etc.

 

[Chas0218]

The weakest link in that setup now is your braking system. Sure a 1/2 ton can carry a lot of weight with the right tires. But can you stop it? I recently had to do a panic stop with 1 ton of cement blocks on my 3/4 ton truck to avoid an accident . No way would my 1/2 ton truck have stopped that fast with a ton of weight in the bed.

You are correct, I have upgraded the pads and rotors. With a load of wood I can engage the ABS when stopping hard.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

You also only have pretty chinsy retainer clips holding those axle shafts in place unlike most heavier trucks that are bolted in. And lighter bearings spindles fewer wheel studs etc etc.

Anyone who does brake jobs on these trucks can see the substantial difference in the size and capacity of the 3/4 ton and 1 ton setup. I have both a 3/4 ton truck and a 1/2 ton truck,so i use each for their intended purpose. The 1/2 ton has a way better ride due to lighter suspension an no 4WD.So that gets the light duty work,and long trips. Any kind of serious work, towing, pulling or hauling ,i feel much safer and less likely to damage something with HD truck . Wheels too make a difference. Iv seen a half ton truck ruin a set of aluminum wheels trying to haul a camper that was a little too much for it.

 

[bholler]

Anyone who does brake jobs on these trucks can see the substantial difference in the size and capacity of the 3/4 ton and 1 ton setup. I have both a 3/4 ton truck and a 1/2 ton truck,so i use each for their intended purpose. The 1/2 ton has a way better ride due to lighter suspension an no 4WD.So that gets the light duty work,and long trips. Any kind of serious work, towing, pulling or hauling ,i feel much safer and less likely to damage something with HD truck . Wheels too make a difference. Iv seen a half ton truck ruin a set of aluminum wheels trying to haul a camper that was a little too much for it.

Yes there is allot of difference for sure. Way more than tires springs and brakepads. The new pads and rotors may give more friction but with the smaller calipers and rotors there is more heat which can cause brake fade or boiling of the fluid. Which is really scary.

 

[bholler]

Ok so yesterday out of curiousity i ran the tire pressure up to 45. And there is no way i would ever drive it like that. The traction was seriously compromised. Traction and stability control qas kicking in all the time i am sure the stopping distance was seriously lengthened.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

You also only have pretty chinsy retainer clips holding those axle shafts in place unlike most heavier trucks that are bolted in. And lighter bearings spindles fewer wheel studs etc etc.

The safest way for a half ton truck to deal with 1 ton plus loads is to use a small trailer. They are fairly inexpensive and greatly increase the load you can move. If i didnt already have a 3/4 ton truck i would do exactly that.

 

[bholler]

The safest way for a half ton truck to deal with 1 ton plus loads is to use a small trailer. They are fairly inexpensive and greatly increase the load you can move. If i didnt already have a 3/4 ton truck i would do exactly that.

Yeah it is a good option for some people. I have a 1 ton truck and easy access to several heavy trailers if i need more capacity.

 

[Ashful]

Lots of disrespect for the 1/2 ton pickup in the last page or few. Claims that it’s stupid for commuting to a desk job, and useless for truck work, while it was out-selling the heavy trucks way before it was cool to drive a pickup.

For me, it’s the perfect compromise. I will drive it to work on Friday, and pick up some lumber or shingles during my lunch break, for a weekend project. Then I hook up my 7000 lb tandem axle trailer (with electric brakes) to fetch three or four cords of firewood on Saturday, pick up a new washing machine after church on Sunday, and then drive it to the airport on Sunday night, where it will sit in economy parking for the week. I don’t need to spend $60k - $80k on a heavy duty truck, for any of those jobs, and I have honestly had many weekends like that.

The 1/2 ton truck deserves high praise, by those who actually use them for their intended purpose. The crew cab also makes it an acceptable family vehicle, when towing one of my boats on vacation, just don’t make fun of me when I get a locking tonneau cover, to protect the luggage from rain or theft. It’s not because I’m afraid to get my bed dirty, there was likely a yard of mulch in that bed the week before.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Lots of disrespect for the 1/2 ton pickup in the last page or few. Claims that it’s stupid for commuting to a desk job, and useless for truck work, while it was out-selling the heavy trucks way before it was cool to drive a pickup.

For me, it’s the perfect compromise. I will drive it to work on Friday, and pick up some lumber or shingles during my lunch break, for a weekend project. Then I hook up my 7000 lb tandem axle trailer (with electric brakes) to fetch three or four cords of firewood on Saturday, pick up a new washing machine after church on Sunday, and then drive it to the airport on Sunday night, where it will sit in economy parking for the week. I don’t need to spend $60k - $80k on a heavy duty truck, for any of those jobs, and I have honestly had many weekends like that.

The 1/2 ton truck deserves high praise, by those who actually use them for their intended purpose. The crew cab also makes it an acceptable family vehicle, when towing one of my boats on vacation, just don’t make fun of me when I get a locking tonneau cover, to protect the luggage from rain or theft. It’s not because I’m afraid to get my bed dirty, there was likely a yard of mulch in that bed the week before.

Thank you!

 

[Seasoned Oak]

I don’t need to spend $60k - $80k on a heavy duty truck, for any of those jobs, and I have honestly had many weekends like that.

.

Exactly ,trailers are so much cheaper ,more useful and safer than overloading a half ton.. And dont cost anywhere near $60 -$80K . As far as buying a gas miser for that occasional trip unloaded, that cost at least 100-1000 times more than the gas you just saved.

 

[bholler]

Lots of disrespect for the 1/2 ton pickup in the last page or few. Claims that it’s stupid for commuting to a desk job, and useless for truck work, while it was out-selling the heavy trucks way before it was cool to drive a pickup.

For me, it’s the perfect compromise. I will drive it to work on Friday, and pick up some lumber or shingles during my lunch break, for a weekend project. Then I hook up my 7000 lb tandem axle trailer (with electric brakes) to fetch three or four cords of firewood on Saturday, pick up a new washing machine after church on Sunday, and then drive it to the airport on Sunday night, where it will sit in economy parking for the week. I don’t need to spend $60k - $80k on a heavy duty truck, for any of those jobs, and I have honestly had many weekends like that.

The 1/2 ton truck deserves high praise, by those who actually use them for their intended purpose. The crew cab also makes it an acceptable family vehicle, when towing one of my boats on vacation, just don’t make fun of me when I get a locking tonneau cover, to protect the luggage from rain or theft. It’s not because I’m afraid to get my bed dirty, there was likely a yard of mulch in that bed the week before.

As long as you know the limits of a 1/2 ton and dont exceed them i see absolutly nothing wrong with them. Personally i need a heavier truck but most people dont.

 

[Jazzberry]

As long as you know the limits of a 1/2 ton and dont exceed them i see absolutly nothing wrong with them. Personally i need a heavier truck but most people dont.

Drive what you want. Don't let someone else's phsyco analysis determine what you want to drive. You like commuting in a 3/4 ton do it. Drive a Peterbilt if it makes you feel better.

 

[bholler]

Drive what you want. Don't let someone else's phsyco analysis determine what you want to drive. You like commuting in a 3/4 ton do it. Drive a Peterbilt if it makes you feel better.

I dont care what people think. I have a 1 ton truck because i regularly carry heavy loads and that is what i need. I only take issue with guys who buy a 1/2 ton and carry way more than it is intended for. That endangers others on the road with them.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

If you need a heavy truck for a business as Bholler and I , its less hassle then a trailer. But for the average homeowner occasionally hauling heavy loads, a trailer is a good substitute.

 

[Jazzberry]

I dont care what people think. I have a 1 ton truck because i regularly carry heavy loads and that is what i need. I only take issue with guys who buy a 1/2 ton and carry way more than it is intended for. That endangers others on the road with them.

I dont care what people think. I have a 1 ton truck because i regularly carry heavy loads and that is what i need. I only take issue with guys who buy a 1/2 ton and carry way more than it is intended for. That endangers others on the road with them.

I meant that in general not at you B. If you die not having any fun cause you are doing the smart thing you lose.

 

[bholler]

If you need a heavy truck for a business as Bholler and I , its less hassle then a trailer. But for the average homeowner occasionally hauling heavy loads, a trailer is a good substitute.

I have a heavy truck for work and one of my own. Mine gets used for work as well at times though.