Half-ton pickup redux

[Stelcom66]

The Powerglide was 2 speeds. I think the Turbo Hydramatic was 3. I had a Powerglide in my 1967 Chevy Caprice. I managed to break it though - or maybe the previous owner. It started slipping really had. I had a used replacement installed by Aamco in '75 for just $100. Drove the car for a few more years. Watched it turn over to 00000 miles. (100k). That was kind of a big deal back then.

 

[jetsam]

You sure that Power Glide wasn't a 2 speed? Wasn't aware Chevy made a 3 speed Power Glide. My best buddy had a 64 Impala with a 2 speed PG and he used to get scratch four or five times when he took off using neutral lol. Those thing would take some unbelievable abuse.

Maybe it was... it's been a lot of years. Wikipedia is backing you up here so I am going to concede the point.

(My brain is still insisting it was a 3 speed...)


One time I was doing maybe 65 and I dropped something on the floor. I leaned over to snag it and whacked the column-mounted shifter on the way back up, and the transmission wound up in reverse. I slid down the road while I tried to whack it back into neutral, then coasted off the road and gave it a few minutes to cool off.

Decided to see if I could limp down the road enough to get to a transmission shop.... and that thing was FINE. Just like nothing happened, and I had just slammed a 3500 pound car into it, more or less.

I still didn't like it, but I sure respected it after that!

 

[Chas0218]

There have been many very durable turbo gas motors through the years. No reason these cant be as well. I hope so my wifes escape has one.

The cars with turbos isn't the problem it is the trucks. They are producing higher boost to get the HP and torque numbers where cars don't need much more than 3 #or 4#. The little displacement motors in trucks need 8# or more boost to get those numbers to compare to the larger V8 displacement motors. The problem is people buying trucks for the status symbol more so than needing it then we wouldn't need these trucks to get higher MPG.

I buy my vehicles for their intended purpose, when I drive my truck it is either towing for hauling and seldom gets driven otherwise. Nothing against anyone daily driving a pickup as they can be but I don't think people should complain about MPG ratings if they are buying a truck. They aren't meant to be commuter cars. When I first bought my truck I was commuting 70 miles a day and get 15 MPG for what it was costing driving it to work everyday it paid for my wife's monthly car payment.

 

[Chas0218]

The Powerglide was 2 speeds. I think the Turbo Hydramatic was 3. I had a Powerglide in my 1967 Chevy Caprice. I managed to break it though - or maybe the previous owner. It started slipping really had. I had a used replacement installed by Aamco in '75 for just $100. Drove the car for a few more years. Watched it turn over to 00000 miles. (100k). That was kind of a big deal back then.

2 speed and overdrive, pretty much the only transmission drag race cars run. The more Street/Strip guys run the 3 and 4 speeds but mostly 3 speed turbo 400 trans and the Ford C6 (I think that's what it's called). I'm a Chevy guy so not sure on the Ford transmission.

 

[Chas0218]

Maybe my viewpoint is skewed, I used to work in Germany, but I believe they are largely responsible for this. They were doing 100 hp per liter in daily commuters 25 years ago, but due to the speeds they drive (Autobahn), they also tend not to keep cars nearly as long as we do. Longevity does not mean the same thing, over there.

But I am a fan of them. It can be a heck of a lot of fun to drive a hot little A3 or 500 Abarth, when you’re used to big honkin’ V8’s.

There is one issue we have here in the States it is called EPA/emission requirements. In Europe they run a lot of diesels and get great MPG 50+ the gas motors also get great mileage compared to the State side counter parts because there is less of a restriction on emissions. A big issue in the past was BMW was popping engines faster than a 70 year old popping the little blue pill living in the villages. This was because of the adding Ethanol in our fuels which wasn't taken into account at the factory in Germany causing the engine to run lean and burning holes in pistons, scoring cylinders, and melting valves.

So because of our emission requirements the diesels and gas motors here in the States are getting less MPG and wearing out faster. I'm not going to get into detail but it has to do with running engines as lean or rish as possible along with lighter weight oils to reduce rotational mass and drag within the engine, ect. All of this is to get the best possible smog rating from a motor. I'm by no means a mechanical engineer so take my knowledge about this with a grain of salt but am a bit of a gear head. I think there is a trade-off to some extent you can get better MPG which means emitting less Greenhouse gasses or get the emissions down but burn fuel less efficiently and emit more greenhouse gasses but try to purify those gasses instead.

 

[bholler]

The cars with turbos isn't the problem it is the trucks. They are producing higher boost to get the HP and torque numbers where cars don't need much more than 3 #or 4#. The little displacement motors in trucks need 8# or more boost to get those numbers to compare to the larger V8 displacement motors. The problem is people buying trucks for the status symbol more so than needing it then we wouldn't need these trucks to get higher MPG.

I buy my vehicles for their intended purpose, when I drive my truck it is either towing for hauling and seldom gets driven otherwise. Nothing against anyone daily driving a pickup as they can be but I don't think people should complain about MPG ratings if they are buying a truck. They aren't meant to be commuter cars. When I first bought my truck I was commuting 70 miles a day and get 15 MPG for what it was costing driving it to work everyday it paid for my wife's monthly car payment.

I ran 9 on my eclipse for years and it lasted till i traded it well over 200000 miles. It has been done for years. I agree they are not good for work ttucks yet but if they keep at it they will get there.

 

[Ashful]

2 speed and overdrive, pretty much the only transmission drag race cars run. The more Street/Strip guys run the 3 and 4 speeds but mostly 3 speed turbo 400 trans and the Ford C6 (I think that's what it's called). I'm a Chevy guy so not sure on the Ford transmission.

This is correct. I’ve had two C6’s, both converted to manual valve body, and bullet-proof. And to tie this back to the OP, both came out of Ford pickup trucks, before going into my hot rods.

 

[SuperSpy]

About the only place i would welcome this, is in line at the drive up teller window at the bank. Or at a fast food drive up.

Yeah, I wouldn't have minded if it waited 30 seconds or so after stopping, but IIRC it was like 3-4 seconds it would wait (basically as soon as the vehicle came to a complete and definite stop). If it was configurable it would be an ok feature, although I can't imagine it saves that much gas overall unless you spend a lot of time in stop-and-go traffic.

 

[jetsam]

Yeah, I wouldn't have minded if it waited 30 seconds or so after stopping, but IIRC it was like 3-4 seconds it would wait (basically as soon as the vehicle came to a complete and definite stop). If it was configurable it would be an ok feature, although I can't imagine it saves that much gas overall unless you spend a lot of time in stop-and-go traffic.

The press release said the fuel savings on 1 cylinder operation could hit 8%, so in the real world ... :/

 

[Ashful]

Yeah, I wouldn't have minded if it waited 30 seconds or so after stopping, but IIRC it was like 3-4 seconds it would wait (basically as soon as the vehicle came to a complete and definite stop). If it was configurable it would be an ok feature, although I can't imagine it saves that much gas overall unless you spend a lot of time in stop-and-go traffic.

I used to get rental cars with this feature in Germany. At least on those (Mercedes), the car would only shut off if you pushed the brake pedal well past what was required to stop and hold the car. Essentially, push half way to stop and hold, push all the way to the floor to shut off. This was designed to make it possible to sit at a traffic light without shutting the car off, although being Germany, folks would give you nasty glances if you did.

 

[Stelcom66]

.

The press release said the fuel savings on 1 cylinder operation could hit 8%, so in the real world ... :/

I really wonder what it would be like driving a V8 on one cylinder

 

[woodhog73]

The cars with turbos isn't the problem it is the trucks. They are producing higher boost to get the HP and torque numbers where cars don't need much more than 3 #or 4#. The little displacement motors in trucks need 8# or more boost to get those numbers to compare to the larger V8 displacement motors. The problem is people buying trucks for the status symbol more so than needing it then we wouldn't need these trucks to get higher MPG.

I buy my vehicles for their intended purpose, when I drive my truck it is either towing for hauling and seldom gets driven otherwise. Nothing against anyone daily driving a pickup as they can be but I don't think people should complain about MPG ratings if they are buying a truck. They aren't meant to be commuter cars. When I first bought my truck I was commuting 70 miles a day and get 15 MPG for what it was costing driving it to work everyday it paid for my wife's monthly car payment.

I haven’t read this entire post. But just want to say I drive a 2016 f150 with the 5.0 and it’s not that hard to get 20mpg avg empty no pay load no towing with a light foot. When I tow my camper or trailer it drops. I can’t say 20mpg is that terrible for commuting.

But as far as turbos ? Or super chargers ? The Ford 3.5 eco boost is a beast. Best motor in the half ton class of trucks no question about it. It gets over 20mpg unloaded. But towing it’s an animal. My buddy had an older f250 with the V10 triton and traded it on the 3.5 eco boost in an f150 and it destroys the V10 towing a 5th wheel 8,000 lb camper. I didn’t believe it till I was in his truck. The 3.5 ecos will run high mileage plenty out there with 150,000 miles etc look it up. But towing a big camper and stepping on the gas you feel the truck accelerate kinda like a diesel. No other gas motor i know of will put you in the seat when mashing the pedal and towing 8,000 lbs like the 3.5 eco boost. It’s an impressive motor. As far as towing 8,000 lb with a half ton that’s another discussion. I wouldn’t buy a 1/2 ton for a camper that big. But my friend did. There’s no reason I can think of why the 3.5 eco boost isn’t offered in the 3/4 ton other than Ford must assume the typical buyer wont want it. Too Bad. Shame cause it’s a power house.

 

[Stelcom66]

I haven’t read this entire post. But just want to say I drive a 2016 f150 with the 5.0 and it’s not that hard to get 20mpg avg empty no pay load no towing with a light foot. When I tow my camper or trailer it drops. I can’t say 20mpg is that terrible for commuting.

But as far as turbos ? Or super chargers ? The Ford 3.5 eco boost is a beast. Best motor in the half ton class of trucks no question about it. It gets over 20mpg unloaded. But towing it’s an animal. My buddy had an older f250 with the V10 triton and traded it on the 3.5 eco boost in an f150 and it destroys the V10 towing a 5th wheel 8,000 lb camper. I didn’t believe it till I was in his truck. The 3.5 ecos will run high mileage plenty out there with 150,000 miles etc look it up. But towing a big camper and stepping on the gas you feel the truck accelerate kinda like a diesel. No other gas motor i know of will put you in the seat when mashing the pedal and towing 8,000 lbs like the 3.5 eco boost. It’s an impressive motor. As far as towing 8,000 lb with a half ton that’s another discussion. I wouldn’t buy a 1/2 ton for a camper that big. But my friend did. There’s no reason I can think of why the 3.5 eco boost isn’t offered in the 3/4 ton other than Ford must assume the typical buyer wont want it. Too Bad. Shame cause it’s a power house.

Sounds like 'There's no replacement for displacement' no longer applies. 20mpg IMO is great for a truck. The Honda Pilot I had (also with a 3.5 V6) once got 17mpg with 90% highway driving, the best it ever did.

 

[Ashful]

Sounds like 'There's no replacement for displacement' no longer applies.

It still counts for something! The Ford eco boost is impressive, a friend drives one and pulls his 9000 lb camper all over the country with it. But the HP and torque are both lower than the 5.7L Hemi, and the power band is narrower.

He does beat me on MPG, but since I normally only use mine for towing and bad weather, it is not a factor for me.

Plus, worst of all... it’s in a Ford. [emoji2961]

Full disclosure, I’ve only been in that truck unladen, never with a tow.

 

[Chas0218]

It still counts for something! The Ford eco boost is impressive, a friend drives one and pulls his 9000 lb camper all over the country with it. But the HP and torque are both lower than the 5.7L Hemi, and the power band is narrower.

He does beat me on MPG, but since I normally only use mine for towing and bad weather, it is not a factor for me.

Plus, worst of all... it’s in a Ford. [emoji2961]

Full disclosure, I’ve only been in that truck unladen, never with a tow.

I have to agree, there isn't any replacement for weight of tow vehicle either. If that 9000lbs. camper ever gets whipping that little F150 will be in the ditch or worse on its lid. Just because it is rated for the weight doesn't mean it should be pulling something that big. I would never feel comfortable pulling a 5th wheel camper or trailer with a truck that weighs 1/3 or less the setup. It can tow all that weight but safely is a whole other story.

I have pulled my boat with 4 different vehicles and out of those 4 vehicles my father in laws Silverado 1500hd towed it the best with the best gas mileage. At the pump the mileage was 13mpg. The f150 eco boost did ok but only got 8 mpg my 1500 5.3 silverado got 11 and my fathers Ram 5.7 hemi got 11 mpg. The ecoboost didn't have any more "a$$" than the other trucks when towing the same road same boat. I did notice the Ecoboost motor was at higher RPM for the majority of the trip.

The trip was 260 miles round trip and the boat was a 23' Pro-Line weighing 5000lbs.

For me personally my next truck will be a diesel no matter what brand. I'm not brand loyal just base my purchases from personal experiences. My next truck will likely be a 2500 ram diesel. Ram didn't used to have all the creature comforts other brands had but have come a long way from the utilitarian style and much more dependable. Also their packages are more customized so I can get a specific package in the truck that I will utilize without having to pay more for the options I won't need or use.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

.


I really wonder what it would be like driving a V8 on one cylinder

Slow

 

[Stelcom66]

I have to agree, there isn't any replacement for weight of tow vehicle either. If that 9000lbs. camper ever gets whipping that little F150 will be in the ditch or worse on its lid. Just because it is rated for the weight doesn't mean it should be pulling something that big. I would never feel comfortable pulling a 5th wheel camper or trailer with a truck that weighs 1/3 or less the setup. It can tow all that weight but safely is a whole other story.

I have pulled my boat with 4 different vehicles and out of those 4 vehicles my father in laws Silverado 1500hd towed it the best with the best gas mileage. At the pump the mileage was 13mpg. The f150 eco boost did ok but only got 8 mpg my 1500 5.3 silverado got 11 and my fathers Ram 5.7 hemi got 11 mpg. The ecoboost didn't have any more "a$$" than the other trucks when towing the same road same boat. I did notice the Ecoboost motor was at higher RPM for the majority of the trip.

The trip was 260 miles round trip and the boat was a 23' Pro-Line weighing 5000lbs.

For me personally my next truck will be a diesel no matter what brand. I'm not brand loyal just base my purchases from personal experiences. My next truck will likely be a 2500 ram diesel. Ram didn't used to have all the creature comforts other brands had but have come a long way from the utilitarian style and much more dependable. Also their packages are more customized so I can get a specific package in the truck that I will utilize without having to pay more for the options I won't need or use.

I've never towed. Interesting when towing the eco boost returned the lower mpg. I guess displacement still applies when towing. If I had won that 1.6 billion, or even part of it - I'd buy a Ram 2500 diesel with the manual transmission if it's still offered. If not, I'd look for a used one.

Now that I have a car the mpg I get with the truck really isn't a concern. I'll mostly use it when needed, or because I miss driving it which will happen.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Been pricing out new Silverados and coming up with around $45k for what i want. Also iv found a half dozen 2017s with crazy low miles 2k ,4k ,5K ect and loaded with even more options than the 45k new trucks for around 30k . Not sure i want to lose 15k in the first year of operation. Seriously considering one of these practically new low milers. Looking at the 5.3 engine and the 6.2.

 

[Ashful]

If I had won that 1.6 billion, or even part of it - I'd buy a Ram 2500 diesel with the manual transmission if it's still offered. If not, I'd look for a used one.

With $1.6B, you’d do better to buy the east-coast network of Ram dealerships, and then hire General Managers to run each one, for you. Or better yet, diversify, buy a few dealerships within each brand.

 

[blades]

Big loads require more guts in the drive train/ stopping. You can move anything if you have enough gear ratios. I am still a believer in no replacement for displacement. Slush boxes are the let down in the scheme of things. they have definite life spans. If you are doing a lot of heavy towing then spend the coin for a good quality tranny cooler - the factory ones if so equipped are inadequate. towing wise it's low end torque that gets the job done. Long hauls the diesel wins hands down around town horse apiece - over the past 25 years all fords 6.9 diesel F350, V10 F350, and a 6.0 f250 diesel turbo emissions deleted these were/are my heavy work units. I do not remember mpg on the 6.9 , v10 with a 4.77 rear end was 10mpg , 6.0 is 15mpg (don't remember the rear end right now) @65 mph with 10k+ behind. Current grocery cart 16 Escape 2L turbo 30mpg no load 6x10 trailer on back and a 1/3 cord green ( about max towing weight) 15mpg at 70 mph- not bad but does get tossed around in a bad wind or not so hot road surfaces. Trailer is wider than the Escape so there is a drag factor involved as well not to mention the trailer tail gate that acts like parachute. even with the full load I can easily pass other vehicles at 70 mph quickly and efficiently, but i definitely know the trailer is back there. Stopping take a little planning though as I can feel the push from the trailer.

 

[bholler]

Big loads require more guts in the drive train/ stopping. You can move anything if you have enough gear ratios. I am still a believer in no replacement for displacement. Slush boxes are the let down in the scheme of things. they have definite life spans. If you are doing a lot of heavy towing then spend the coin for a good quality tranny cooler - the factory ones if so equipped are inadequate. towing wise it's low end torque that gets the job done. Long hauls the diesel wins hands down around town horse apiece - over the past 25 years all fords 6.9 diesel F350, V10 F350, and a 6.0 f250 diesel turbo emissions deleted these were/are my heavy work units. I do not remember mpg on the 6.9 , v10 with a 4.77 rear end was 10mpg , 6.0 is 15mpg (don't remember the rear end right now) @65 mph with 10k+ behind. Current grocery cart 16 Escape 2L turbo 30mpg no load 6x10 trailer on back and a 1/3 cord green ( about max towing weight) 15mpg at 70 mph- not bad but does get tossed around in a bad wind or not so hot road surfaces. Trailer is wider than the Escape so there is a drag factor involved as well not to mention the trailer tail gate that acts like parachute. even with the full load I can easily pass other vehicles at 70 mph quickly and efficiently, but i definitely know the trailer is back there. Stopping take a little planning though as I can feel the push from the trailer.

How are you getting 30 mpg out of an escape 2.0t? I cant average that with cruise set at 65 on a flat highway.

 

[blades]

check your tires pressure- was driving me nutz that I could not achieve more than about 25 mpg - dang dealer had tire pressure at 30 #- tire side wall states 50# running at 49# warm temps above 50 - i will avg 30 hwy at apx 72 mph dropping down to 65 and the mileage goes down seems the sweet spot on mine is 71-72 mph the daily run is 46.5 miles one way 7 mi back roads most are 50 mph about 1 mile though town@ 30mph then freeway for apx 35mi then back roads to shop avg 450mph. Now that it is avg temp wise about 40deg outside running about 28 mpg on reg ethanol. I can run non ethanol or the higher test stuff but the mileage gain isn't enough to offset price. 73500 on the clock. been a few days where the run one way was 31.5 mpg ( just might be something to those fuel warming gadets)
Run synthetic oil change every 3k. Tires are a big part. Aggressive tread patterns cut mileage , If I have to go out in bad weather I take the F250 at around 8000 lbs it will stay on the road 98% of the time. Best I've done with the o4 deleted diesel f250 has been 17 empty at 65mph on the speedo. worst was with a full cord of green ASH on 6x10 trailer at 70+ mph 13-14.5 mpg. heck I can live with that. same load at 65 mph will get 15 mpg+. Pulling 10K at 65 avg was 15mpg on a 3.5 hour run up north repeatedly, all freeway this past summer. 218000 mi on the clock in that unit. and it is a 4x4. I do not have any fancy reprograming chip in it. the 16 Escape is also a 4x4 some sort of self adapting engagement system on that- not real crazy about it though.

Note: with the turbos - need to put your foot in them every so often to keep the variable vanes working correctly- other wise they will carbon up and get stuck-

 

[Ashful]

dang dealer had tire pressure at 30 #- tire side wall states 50#

Holy crap... do NOT set your tire pressure according to what it says on the sidewall of the tire! That is simply the maximum pressure the tire can handle (without danger of exploding) at maximum load. You are supposed to set your tire pressure according to the sticker typically found in the driver’s side door jamb. Here’s one from a Ranger or an Explorer:

Your dealer is probably saying, “this dang owner keeps setting his tires to 50#, he’s going to kill himself!”

 

[blades]

well you are right door says 35 psi- but as I come from a world of trucks and the tire is rated at 51psi for a max load of 1750 I will stay with my 49psi saves the time of constantly raising and lowering pressure when the trailer is on it ( spare - door sticker 60 psi course that is one of those space saver units). My trucks are all at 75psi. At 30psi I got a lot of alligatoring up front in 5k miles- do not see that happening now. This primarily a front wheel drive unit, the 4x4 adds the rear- just the reverse of the trucks.

 

[Chas0218]

Holy crap... do NOT set your tire pressure according to what it says on the sidewall of the tire! That is simply the maximum pressure the tire can handle (without danger of exploding) at maximum load. You are supposed to set your tire pressure according to the sticker typically found in the driver’s side door jamb. Here’s one from a Ranger or an Explorer:

View attachment 231992

Your dealer is probably saying, “this dang owner keeps setting his tires to 50#, he’s going to kill himself!”

That is for a P rated tire it can't be set to anything above 35# because it is a 4 ply tire. The ply of a tire dictates how much pressure it should be set to, see the attached chart. B is usually the same as a P rated tire.

My truck has 8 ply A/T tires that are max 80 psi. If I only put 40 psi in them it would be very dangerous hauling anything close to my trucks capacity. I usually run mine about 70 psi.