Good Price for a Stihl 390

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Kenster

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 10, 2010
1,705
Texas- West of Houston
Would the low $400s be a good price for a brand new 390 with 16 inch bar and professionally modified muffler? What should be the max price? I have to make a quick decision.
 
Supposed to be broken in before a muffler mod is done. But $400 for a new 390 sounds good to me.
 
I gave $420 for a 390 with a new piston and a 20"bar last fall on ebay.
 
MMaul said:
Supposed to be broken in before a muffler mod is done. But $400 for a new 390 sounds good to me.

It was run just enough to do the muffler mod and then to retune it.
 
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
 
Post a link to ebay please..............

The 16" bar on a 390 will get old may even want to run a 8 or 9 tooth sprocket to get more out of the short chain...

Anyway I like my 290 been a great saw not had all the trouble I keep hearing about.. Some day it will get a 390 top end.. I can't wait I tells ya....
 
Here's a link to the Ebay listing.

Southbound, I'm not a pro with chain saws. Can you explain the comment:

<<The 16” bar on a 390 will get old may even want to run a 8 or 9 tooth sprocket to get more out of the short chain…>>

The 16 inch bar is plenty for about 99% of my felling and bucking. I just assumed that the shorter bar would really allow the 390 to roar. What would the change in sprockets do?

Thanks.
 
It's hard for me to put in words. I leave that up to the smart guys but here ya go...

The 390 has a lot of lower end power, It takes more to bog one down.. A taller gear will allow you to take advantage of this and cut at faster speeds with a short chain...

I hope I got that out right... Most folks running 066 with a 20" bar go for a 9 tooth gear gives it a little more speed...

O and I see no link....
 
Ooops. Link... here you go...

(broken link removed to http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300396989772&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123)
 
Great that worked!!!!!

Saw looks sweet sounds like mine too lol...............

You can do a muffler mod at any time it's just if it is new it will void your warranty....

When you get it take off the deflector cover on the front of the muffler and make sure he opened it up....

Good luck and post more pic's when you get it!!!!
 
Kenster said:
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.


yes that should be a very fast set up! Just went to the stihl site theres no 390 it went to 391. at 14.1 ponds
 
yes that should be a very fast set up! Just went to the stihl site theres no 390 it went to 391. at 14.1 ponds

I went to several sites, including the Stihl site, and could not find a 390 but in reading various message boards and product reviews I kept seeing $529 pretty often for a current price. One review should MRSP of $895!! which I knew couldn't be right. I'm happy with what I paid.
 
Kenster said:
yes that should be a very fast set up! Just went to the stihl site theres no 390 it went to 391. at 14.1 ponds

I went to several sites, including the Stihl site, and could not find a 390 but in reading various message boards and product reviews I kept seeing $529 pretty often for a current price. One review should MRSP of $895!! which I knew couldn't be right. I'm happy with what I paid.

The 390 with that set up sounds like a saw builder, most would throw a 25in. on it just to make it look more aggressive. I would think anyone would be happy with 390 and muff mod.
 
Kenster said:
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.

Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.

Zap
 

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zapny said:
Kenster said:
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.

Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.

Zap

looks good sounds good that case may have been split and rebuilt I dont know from the pics. By the sounds of it if its rebuild for what ever reason they done a good job.
 
zapny said:
Kenster said:
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.

Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.

Zap

My 290has the same mark...Looks like a casting line or something....
 
southbound said:
zapny said:
Kenster said:
golfandwoodnut said:
Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.

It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.

I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.

Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.

Zap

My 290has the same mark...Looks like a casting line or something....

I have the 310 & 390, will take a picture this evening then post. Both saws have been good for me.

Zap
 
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!
 
Medman said:
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!

with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
 
smokinjay said:
Medman said:
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!

with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
Smokinjay how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .
 
Thanks webie, that was what I was thinking about the 16 inch bar - that's the reason I went to 20" in the first place. I need to swing by the dealer today anyway to pick up some more oil, so I will ask about the sprockets. The dealer here has a lot of professional loggers as customers, using up to 36" bars. They probably know a thing or two about increasing the power from my saw. I am using Sthil yellow chain now, and have had great luck keeping edges sharp. Much better than my older Homelite with oregon chain.
 
webie said:
sm said:
Medman said:
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!

with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .


sprocket are just changing the gearing you do one thing and you lose on another the best all around sprocket is the 7 pin imo for work saw. If you bring that 360 with a 9 pin and work all day against my 460 its going to be a long day for you...16-18 in. wood is very small the 390 will rock and roll with a 16 in. set up without changing sprockets. Now the 360 and the 390 are pretty close saw why in the heck you running a 16in. on it? because it works 9 pin will be ok with that short of a bar but stick in some hard wood when the rpm drop and your going to slow down quick(try it with a 25 in. bar see what happens). Its all a give and take its best not to over think it.( pin set up would be a modd. 660 with a 28in. bar..A super modd. out 460 is marginal with a 8 pin cant see a 9 pin on a 360 work saw!
 
smokinjay said:
webie said:
sm said:
Medman said:
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!

with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .


sprocket are just changing the gearing you do one thing and you lose on another the best all around sprocket is the 7 pin imo for work saw. If you bring that 360 with a 9 pin and work all day against my 460 its going to be a long day for you...16-18 in. wood is very small the 390 will rock and roll with a 16 in. set up without changing sprockets. Now the 360 and the 390 are pretty close saw why in the heck you running a 16in. on it? because it works 9 pin will be ok with that short of a bar but stick in some hard wood when the rpm drop and your going to slow down quick(try it with a 25 in. bar see what happens). Its all a give and take its best not to over think it.( pin set up would be a modd. 660 with a 28in. bar..A super modd. out 460 is marginal with a 8 pin cant see a 9 pin on a 360 work saw!
Ah yes but you miss the part that this is only a .325 chain there is much less cutter surface , also the biggest bar you can get in a .325 is a 20 inch .
I have lots of saws and all the 360 does is buck wood and anything up too about 14 inches it will out run the 460 . I guess specs wize there is only about a 1.5 hp difference .
I can honestly tell you the sprocket is a special order from stihl , if you can get one and borrow a 16" .325 bar and chain and try it .
Oh its a bear to fit the bar and chain on it just barely clears the sprocket .
 
Oh one of these days that same 9 toth .325 sprocket will fit the 460 its going to have to be a try and see what happens .
 
webie said:
sm said:
webie said:
sm said:
Medman said:
I just saw this thread.

I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!

Thanks!

with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .


sprocket are just changing the gearing you do one thing and you lose on another the best all around sprocket is the 7 pin imo for work saw. If you bring that 360 with a 9 pin and work all day against my 460 its going to be a long day for you...16-18 in. wood is very small the 390 will rock and roll with a 16 in. set up without changing sprockets. Now the 360 and the 390 are pretty close saw why in the heck you running a 16in. on it? because it works 9 pin will be ok with that short of a bar but stick in some hard wood when the rpm drop and your going to slow down quick(try it with a 25 in. bar see what happens). Its all a give and take its best not to over think it.( pin set up would be a modd. 660 with a 28in. bar..A super modd. out 460 is marginal with a 8 pin cant see a 9 pin on a 360 work saw!
Ah yes but you miss the part that this is only a .325 chain there is much less cutter surface , also the biggest bar you can get in a .325 is a 20 inch .
I have lots of saws and all the 360 does is buck wood and anything up too about 14 inches it will out run the 460 . I guess specs wize there is only about a 1.5 hp difference .
I can honestly tell you the sprocket is a special order from stihl , if you can get one and borrow a 16" .325 bar and chain and try it .
Oh its a bear to fit the bar and chain on it just barely clears the sprocket .


my 361 runs 16 in bar cuts as fast as I can put in on the wood. You are the first I have ever heard that runs that set up '9 pin" and wouldn't recommend it to anyone . You would have to have a lot of saws making it so "one set up only " like that. I run 16 and 20in. on the 361 and the 460 with a 28 in. only...Got any videos of it running? 1.5 a lot of hp when running a bigger bar and that just stock #s what pin you running on the 460? Theres a reason why it speical order your not the first to try it but the first I have heard that like that set up...even in time racing the nine pin just is not used till around 90cc 8pin at aournd 70cc when you have an extreme builder....Be great to see a 7pin video and the one of the 9 pin?
 
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