Would the low $400s be a good price for a brand new 390 with 16 inch bar and professionally modified muffler? What should be the max price? I have to make a quick decision.
MMaul said:Supposed to be broken in before a muffler mod is done. But $400 for a new 390 sounds good to me.
golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
Kenster said:golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.
I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
yes that should be a very fast set up! Just went to the stihl site theres no 390 it went to 391. at 14.1 ponds
Kenster said:yes that should be a very fast set up! Just went to the stihl site theres no 390 it went to 391. at 14.1 ponds
I went to several sites, including the Stihl site, and could not find a 390 but in reading various message boards and product reviews I kept seeing $529 pretty often for a current price. One review should MRSP of $895!! which I knew couldn't be right. I'm happy with what I paid.
Kenster said:golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.
I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
zapny said:Kenster said:golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.
I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.
Zap
zapny said:Kenster said:golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.
I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.
Zap
southbound said:zapny said:Kenster said:golfandwoodnut said:Excellent, I think I paid the Stihl List price (close to $500) with no muffler mod. The dealer threw in a few extras like the case and oil supply. How can you get one that cheap? Usually Stihl dealers will not discount around here. Also what advantage is the muffler mod? I see Stihl now has 391s.
It was on eBay. The listing even had a video of him starting and running the saw.
I just bought it. I did not bid until the last few seconds. The last bid was for $440.01. I punched in $453.37 with five seconds to go and won the saw for $445.01.
Still a pretty fair deal, I think. With the muffler mod and the 16 inch bar it ought to tear through some wood just fine.
Looks like it has a crack in it. If its not clear on my picture look on ebay the 4th picture down under the video.
Zap
My 290has the same mark...Looks like a casting line or something....
Medman said:I just saw this thread.
I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!
Thanks!
Smokinjay how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?smokinjay said:Medman said:I just saw this thread.
I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!
Thanks!
with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
webie said:Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?sm said:Medman said:I just saw this thread.
I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!
Thanks!
with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .
Ah yes but you miss the part that this is only a .325 chain there is much less cutter surface , also the biggest bar you can get in a .325 is a 20 inch .smokinjay said:webie said:Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?sm said:Medman said:I just saw this thread.
I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!
Thanks!
with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .
sprocket are just changing the gearing you do one thing and you lose on another the best all around sprocket is the 7 pin imo for work saw. If you bring that 360 with a 9 pin and work all day against my 460 its going to be a long day for you...16-18 in. wood is very small the 390 will rock and roll with a 16 in. set up without changing sprockets. Now the 360 and the 390 are pretty close saw why in the heck you running a 16in. on it? because it works 9 pin will be ok with that short of a bar but stick in some hard wood when the rpm drop and your going to slow down quick(try it with a 25 in. bar see what happens). Its all a give and take its best not to over think it.( pin set up would be a modd. 660 with a 28in. bar..A super modd. out 460 is marginal with a 8 pin cant see a 9 pin on a 360 work saw!
webie said:Ah yes but you miss the part that this is only a .325 chain there is much less cutter surface , also the biggest bar you can get in a .325 is a 20 inch .sm said:webie said:Sm how does a 16 inch bar give you more power than a 20 inch bar ?sm said:Medman said:I just saw this thread.
I have a 390 with a 20 inch bar, most of the wood I am cutting is in the 12-18" range. I recently got a load of red oak and hard maple that seems to bog the saw more than usual. I am curious about the muffler mod - waht is involved and how easy is it to do? Will I see an increase in power, especially with these big hardwoods?
It's taking me longer than usual to buck up this load. Any advantage I could get would be great!
Thanks!
with 12-18in. hardwood you can get that extra power by using a 16in. bar full chisel on that saw...and yes a muff. modd. would also give you another 10 percent power.
The saw chain is still running the cutters over the wood at the same cuts per second , you just have a little gain in saw chain speed with a couple of less cutters with a 16 inch bar .
Medman see if you are running a rim sprocket which you probably are . If you need more power to the chain check to see if you are running a 7 tooth sprocket or an 8 tooth . the 7 will give you a little more power for hard cutting woods where as the 8 will be faster in softer cutting woods .
Yes muf mod will help if thats what you are into for kicks , your saw makes a bunch of power already .
If all you are doing is bucking I have my MS 360 modified running a 9 tooth rim sprocket with a .325 chain rakers are cut to 30 thousands on a 16 inch bar . This thing will bury my MS 460 any day of the week even tho its about 2 HP less .
But then the 460 is set up for knocken them down with a 7 toth and a 3/8 chain on a 25 inch bar . It all depends on your needs .
I personally would not change to a 16 inch bar if you were regularly cutting in wood 16-18 , you will be hateing it .
sprocket are just changing the gearing you do one thing and you lose on another the best all around sprocket is the 7 pin imo for work saw. If you bring that 360 with a 9 pin and work all day against my 460 its going to be a long day for you...16-18 in. wood is very small the 390 will rock and roll with a 16 in. set up without changing sprockets. Now the 360 and the 390 are pretty close saw why in the heck you running a 16in. on it? because it works 9 pin will be ok with that short of a bar but stick in some hard wood when the rpm drop and your going to slow down quick(try it with a 25 in. bar see what happens). Its all a give and take its best not to over think it.( pin set up would be a modd. 660 with a 28in. bar..A super modd. out 460 is marginal with a 8 pin cant see a 9 pin on a 360 work saw!
I have lots of saws and all the 360 does is buck wood and anything up too about 14 inches it will out run the 460 . I guess specs wize there is only about a 1.5 hp difference .
I can honestly tell you the sprocket is a special order from stihl , if you can get one and borrow a 16" .325 bar and chain and try it .
Oh its a bear to fit the bar and chain on it just barely clears the sprocket .
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