Glowing Combustor-BK's & Other Cat Stoves

[RustyShackleford]

Chris, I've never removed it and can't quite tell from looking: is the cat in my Princess (purchased in 2009 or so) a ceramic or stainless substrate ?

Is there a good inexpensive draft meter (to measure w.c. of draft) ? My single-wall connector seems to be working fine (though I sometimes detect a slight smoke odor in house during slow burns) but I'm curious what the numbers are.

 

[_CY_]

We did at one time provide numbered cat thermometers with numbers. The downside, we would get calls when the combustor dropped 100 degrees! The active line is about 550 degrees. The cat thermometers are not all that precise, so for anyone that wants to be a combustion engineer, thermocouples with digital read outs are way more precise.

My wife often says our house (stove) looks like a science experiment.

To answer your question, the most efficient way to operate your stove is to burn good quality, dry fuel and avoid "playing" with the thermostat knob. And of course, be safe.

Chris

original Condar thermometer was about 100f degree off before calibrating with a digital pyrometer. in my particular case with Buck 91 thermometer is about 1in above combustor surface. so thermometer reading is not actual combustor temp.

have noticed that combustor stays active down to about 400f at end of burn cycle. if there's still substantial fuel left at low air setting and end of burn. without opening door, open air controls quickly jumps cat thermometer to 500f to 600f .. proof that catalyst is still active.

 

[BKVP]

Chris, I've never removed it and can't quite tell from looking: is the cat in my Princess (purchased in 2009 or so) a ceramic or stainless substrate ?

Is there a good inexpensive draft meter (to measure w.c. of draft) ? My single-wall connector seems to be working fine (though I sometimes detect a slight smoke odor in house during slow burns) but I'm curious what the numbers are.

There are some handy draft meters, but none of them are cheap. The least costly that still work well are just over $200.00 As for your combustor, it is probably ceramic.

Chris

 

[RustyShackleford]

As for your combustor, it is probably ceramic.

Here's a picture. Doesn't look ceramic to me. But it works fine (nearing end of its 5th winter). I'm wondering whether to switch to ceramic when I have to replace it though.

 

[alforit]

Here's a picture. Doesn't look ceramic to me. But it works fine (nearing end of its 5th winter). I'm wondering whether to switch to ceramic when I have to replace it though.

That is not ceramic

 

[RustyShackleford]

That is not ceramic

Didn't think so. I think Chris said in another thread that some stoves shipped with metal substrate. I've always had ceramic before this (in Dutchwest) and can't really tell much difference (in the cat that is, heckuva lotta difference in the stove ...)

 

[alforit]

Didn't think so. I think Chris said in another thread that some stoves shipped with metal substrate. I've always had ceramic before this (in Dutchwest) and can't really tell much difference (in the cat that is, heckuva lotta difference in the stove ...)

I am experimenting right now with a ceramic cat in my Ashford. It came with a Stainless steel cat. So far I am noticing longer and hotter burns.. A little premature to draw a conclusion just yet but will post my results when some time has gone by.

 

[woodgeek]

Is there a good inexpensive draft meter (to measure w.c. of draft) ? My single-wall connector seems to be working fine (though I sometimes detect a slight smoke odor in house during slow burns) but I'm curious what the numbers are.

Sometimes you can pick up suitable 'Magnahelic' guages on eBay for <$40. Myself, I just made a water filled U-tube.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Myself, I just made a water filled U-tube.

YOU would. (I mean that as a compliment).