Getting wood dry enough for next season

[maple1]

I don't think the tarp cover color would matter too much except the top row. Orienting the stacks so that the prevailing winds can blow through then seems much more effective.

I have had better luck orienting stacks the other way - so prevailing winds blow against the end of the stack. And therefore across the ends of the wood. That way prevailing moisture that comes with the prevailing winds doesn't get driven into the stack, it only hits the end of the stack & won't go in very far - you could keep it out all together by covering that stack end if you wanted. Most of the time in a rain, I can look out & see the ends of my wood staying mostly dry. The wind across the ends of the wood pulls moisture out from both sides. Since my prevailing winds are southerly, that also means those stacks get early sun on one side & late sun on the other. I have no choice in how to orient one of my stacks, it runs east/west - the back side of it always seems to burn harder than the front side of it (I double stack). Which may also have something to do with the fact the the sun never hits the north facing side.

 

[Rich L]

Hey firefighterjake, as we say in Boston, "you're wicked smaaaaht!" I just scored the motherload of high quality wood exactly as you said. I've been on the lookout and found a wood burner who recently put his house on the market and was looking to get rid of his wood stash. I bought three plus cords of 3-year split (all right around 16 inches) and stacked oak, maple and a bit of cherry (some of which I'll be cutting into smaller chunks to go into my smoker and impart some delicious flavor into ribs and chicken!) for $150 I rented a 15 foot uhaul cargo truck, and made two trips (had to make two trips due to weight concerns more than space). The guy even helped me load it all up and threw in a big blue tarp, a couple nice rubber roof pieces great for covering a cord or two, and six nice wood fence posts that he had the wood stacked on. Pics below. The wood burns great and I split a few pieces after sitting in the house for a day and they measure 14% on my moisture meter. The uhaul was another $100, plus $30 in gas, so for $280 and a good days work, I've now got three cords ready to go (plus the wood I already had)! I'm feeling that I'm now in a good place as I can start thinking about getting ahead, seasoning wood for future years without stressing about the now and next season. But first, a good amount of stacking in my near future!

One question for y'all: I've got a space for about two cords build next to the foundation of my house. It's a concrete base up against the outside of the fieldstone basement of my home, and under a wooden deck. I believe it was intended for storing wood or coal. I put some pallets down to not have the wood right on the concrete. I'm thinking that as this wood is seasoned, I'll store as much of it as I can stacked there (it's the closest space for wood I have to the house and probably not great for seasoning, as it doesn't get sun and less wind than other areas). As it's right up against my home I worry a bit about bugs, especially the wood eating kind that could potentially effect my home, and possibly also mice. Should I put some bug/ant poison down and possibly some mouse traps or poison before I stack the wood there, and/or also on top of the wood? If so, what do you recommend?
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Kenny that's some good looking wood for a great price.You were blessed with that deal.I'll have to check out craig's list more often

 

[KennyK]

I'm keeping my eyes open and today I picked up a mini score of some free pine rounds. Would have gotten more, but my minivan is in the shop and I could only fit so much in my rental (a small SUV). Nonetheless, a bit more free wood for 15 minutes of work (and of course upcoming splitting), and the first of my pine stash!

 

[begreen]

Every bit helps. Split the larger rounds into halves to accelerate drying.

 

[KennyK]

Every bit helps. Split the larger rounds into halves to accelerate drying.

They are oozing sap from the ends. How long should I wait before splitting?

 

[Ctwoodtick]

If it hasn’t been said, definitely top cover that pine.

 

[maple1]

They are oozing sap from the ends. How long should I wait before splitting?

Imo all wood should be split as soon as it is in rounds. Ideally.

 

[KennyK]

Imo all wood should be split as soon as it is in rounds. Ideally.

I think I read someone here saying that with pine he lets it sit in rounds for a bit and that way it doen't sap up his maul so much when splitting.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

That’s probably right to some degree, but def get split sometime soon for use this fall.

 

[KennyK]

That’s probably right to some degree, but def get split sometime soon for use this fall.

Wow, use this fall? Does pine dry that fast? I was thinking maybe this time next year...

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Wow, use this fall? Does pine dry that fast? I was thinking maybe this time next year...

As long as not split big, yes.

 

[nola mike]

If the use you make is limited (i.e. a few hours per year) steel toe boots, chainsaw chaps and eye and ear protection will suffice IF YOU ARE VERY CAUTIOUS.
For prolonged (professional) use add helmet, jacket and gloves. It’s quite pricey gear, but will last many years.
And your arms, legs, fingers etc are pretty valuable tools.

Disagree. Helmet and face shield aren't optional. I've seen more than one kickback to the head/face. My head is more valuable than my legs...though I'm fond of all of my appendages.

 

[KennyK]

Disagree. Helmet and face shield aren't optional. I've seen more than one kickback to the head/face. My head is more valuable than my legs...though I'm fond of all of my appendages.

Nola Mike, to you and all the folks who have offered safety advice, thank you! All of this is a very helpful and welcome reminders. I think it's very easy for many people (myself included) to forgot just how important it is to never put your guard down when using something like a chainsaw. I will take this advice all very seriously. One related questions. My neighbor has a small 14inch electric chainsaw. He will be teaching me to use a chainsaw with this, and then down the line I'll decide if I'm going to invest in my own and at that point I'll decide on size, gas vs. electric, etc. In terms of safety, is a small electric chainsaw any different than using a gas chainsaw? I imagine that even though it's probably not as powerful as a gas saw, one still has to exercise the utmost caution and safety, but perhaps it's a little less prone to things like kick-backs due to less power - not sure. Any thoughts or input?

 

[maple1]

Disagree. Helmet and face shield aren't optional. I've seen more than one kickback to the head/face. My head is more valuable than my legs...though I'm fond of all of my appendages.

I also wouldn't consider standard steel toe boots, as saw boots. They leave a lot of your foot/shin unprotected - that toe doesn't go very far. Any nicks in my boots are into sort of the side of them - behind the toes.

 

[Simonkenton]

Here I am ripping a white pine beam for my new log cabin. I am not saying you should not use safety gear, you should.
A chain saw is a very dangerous tool and it can kill you.

However this is my way, I would find all that gear cumbersome, and hot, so this is what works for me and I do a lot of chainsaw work.

 

[obie1kanobe]

If I split winter-cut oak into small pieces (2"x3"x18") how much will that speed up the exit of water from within the cells? It needs to be dry enough to burn efficiently when added to an existing fire in a Hearthstone stove. I'll stack it along a ridgeline that gets full day sun and frequently gets 15mph minds.

I don't want to go to the extra work if it doesn't cut at least a year off the drying time. (The downside is, at that small size, it will burn too fast once dry.)

 

[Ctwoodtick]

If I split winter-cut oak into small pieces (2"x3"x18") how much will that speed up the exit of water from within the cells? It needs to be dry enough to burn efficiently when added to an existing fire in a Hearthstone stove. I'll stack it along a ridgeline that gets full day sun and frequently gets 15mph minds.

I don't want to go to the extra work if it doesn't cut at least a year off the drying time. (The downside is, at that small size, it will burn too fast once dry.)

I think that that wood should be good in 18 months. It may not be 15% mc, but likely around 20, IMHO.

 

[Rich L]

I also wouldn't consider standard steel toe boots, as saw boots. They leave a lot of your foot/shin unprotected - that toe doesn't go very far. Any nicks in my boots are into sort of the side of them - behind the toes.

Man if your nicking your boots with a chain saw your cutting method is so unsafe it's ridiculous.

 

[KennyK]

Another score today! Almost a cord of 3 year, cut, split and stacked seasoned oak, plus about an 1/8 cord of green split unidentified wood for $80! Close to my house, so two full loads today in the minivan with seats down and another tomorrow! Working towards the three year plan! Here's the oak, I'll post then unidentified tree tomorrow when I pick it up for some identification help!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

80 bucks is a great bargain for more than a month and half of heat in the winter. Excellent score!

 

[Simonkenton]

3+ cords for 80 bucks! You ought to be arrested. Dammn what a deal.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

Another score today! Almost a cord of 3 year, cut, split and stacked seasoned oak, plus about an 1/8 cord of green split unidentified wood for $80! Close to my house, so two full loads today in the minivan with seats down and another tomorrow! Working towards the three year plan! Here's the oak, I'll post then unidentified tree tomorrow when I pick it up for some identification help!

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You should look into getting a trailer hitch put on that van. We used to be mini-van scroungers as well, and it was much nicer to be able to keep the wood (and spiders) out of the seating area. We had the hitch put on and used a rental U-Haul on occasion until we found a suitable trailer on Craigslist. The rentals are so inexpensive that it could be a viable long-term option.

 

[KennyK]

3+ cords for 80 bucks! You ought to be arrested. Dammn what a deal.

It was a good deal, but not quite that good! More like a cord (I think you misread that it was seasoned for 3 years as 3 cords).

 

[KennyK]

You should look into getting a trailer hitch put on that van. We used to be mini-van scroungers as well, and it was much nicer to be able to keep the wood (and spiders) out of the seating area. We had the hitch put on and used a rental U-Haul on occasion until we found a suitable trailer on Craigslist. The rentals are so inexpensive that it could be a viable long-term option.

That's a great idea! Fortunately, my minivan is 13 years old, and not in pristine condition so I don't mind putting down a blue tarp and when I'm done with everything getting in here with the vacuum. That said, the trailer hitch seems like a great plan, would be easier, and gives me something to think about for when I eventually get a new car which probably won't be another minivan.

 

[KennyK]

Just picked up the final load. Here's a pic of the unidentified green wood. Any thoughts of what species?