getting a new stove..

[begreen]

Did you get the stove used? If new, the warping should be covered under warranty. The stove should easily heat 1100 sq ft unless there is some serious leakage in the house or the wood is still damp at the core.

 

[Cornelis]

It is not your stove but that is how a secondary burn should approximately look like when you have the stove up to temp and the air closed:

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How does it look in your case?

Less than yours more off wave motion I send you a picture hope it works

 

[Cornelis]

Did you get the stove used? If new, the warping should be covered under warranty. The stove should easily heat 1100 sq ft unless there is some serious leakage in the house or the wood is still damp at the core.

Bought it new...First thing they say I over fire it.. I can't even get the stove top over 700 and the rest of the stove is in range of the temp readers I have on the stove. I have 2 of them one on the corner and one in front of the stove pipe

 

[aansorge]

I wonder about the warp...is it bad enough to not allow the door gasket to properly seal? If so I think you would get a raging out of control fire.

 

[begreen]

The place looks old, is it a log home? I'm wondering if leakage through the chinking is bad?

PS: That is a real tile floor, right?

Bought it new...First thing they say I over fire it.. I can't even get the stove top over 700 and the rest of the stove is in range of the temp readers I have on the stove. I have 2 of them one on the corner and one in front of the stove pipe

I would fight them on that and demand they prove it. There aren't visible signs of overfiring.

 

[Cornelis]

The place looks old, is it a log home? I'm wondering if leakage through the chinking is bad?

PS: That is a real tile floor, right?



I would fight them on that and demand they prove it. There aren't visible signs of overfiring.

No every thing is fine.

 

[Cornelis]

I wonder about the warp...is it bad enough to not allow the door gasket to properly seal? If so I think you would get a raging out of control fire.

the dollar bill doesn't work you pull it out very easy

 

[Cornelis]

The place looks old, is it a log home? I'm wondering if leakage through the chinking is bad?

PS: That is a real tile floor, right?



I would fight them on that and demand they prove it. There aren't visible signs of overfiring.

Very old house.. Real tile floor.. not a log home I wish

 

[begreen]

Very old houses usually had no house wrap or wind barrier. It could be this is a pretty leaky place. With an underperforming stove I can see how heating could be marginal when it is cold. The main question is whether this is the wood or the stove. If you want to replace the stove I can tell you about the PE Summit and Alderlea. I'm heating our place with the T6 and like it a lot.

 

[Cornelis]

Very old houses usually had no house wrap or wind barrier. It could be this is a pretty leaky place. With an underperforming stove I can see how heating could be marginal when it is cold. The main question is whether this is the wood or the stove. If you want to replace the stove I can tell you about the PE Summit and Alderlea. I'm heating our place with the T6 and like it a lot.

At the moment there is no money for remodeling maybe next year if I think it is worth to put money into it.

I think I have to put the stove to the max every time to heat the house.

Like to know how the EBT works.

 

[begreen]

The T6 can put out some serious heat and with good hardwood will burn for 10-12 hrs between refills when it is moderate outside, 8 hrs when it is very cold. They have changed the EBT design on the new models. I have the old style series A EBT and have it blocked off because it worked on the primary air. I get better burn control without it. The new series B design is much better. It works on the secondary air only, acting much like a barometric damper. Folks that have it are reporting it works very well at extending burn times. The nice thing with the Alderlea is that in close quarters you are going to get a soft heat off the sides. The sheer mass of the cast iron holds the heat for a long time which evens out the burn cycle temps very nicely. The swing away trivet top is a nice bonus too.

Here's a good article on the EBT by one of the Pacific Energy experts and hearth.com member, Tom Oyen:

(broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoebt.htm)

 

[Cornelis]

The T6 can put out some serious heat and with good hardwood will burn for 10-12 hrs between refills when it is moderate outside, 8 hrs when it is very cold. They have changed the EBT design on the new models. I have the old style series A EBT and have it blocked off because it worked on the primary air. I get better burn control without it. The new series B design is much better. It works on the secondary air only, acting much like a barometric damper. Folks that have it are reporting it works very well at extending burn times. The nice thing with the Alderlea is that in close quarters you are going to get a soft heat off the sides. The sheer mass of the cast iron holds the heat for a long time which evens out the burn cycle temps very nicely. The swing away trivet top is a nice bonus too.

Here's a good article on the EBT by one of the Pacific Energy experts and hearth.com member, Tom Oyen:

(broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hoebt.htm)

Great info.. Thanks

 

[Cornelis]

I have looked a bit at your old thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/looking-for-a-new-stove-for-next-winter.105281/
In there you complain about a lot of coals in the morning. A few things are still unclear to me. There you say you split the wood 2 years ago but stacked it just the summer before. If that has been sitting in a big heap in your yard most of the time only the outer layer will be dry, the rest will still be wet. You may need a moisture meter to confirm if it is truly seasoned. (e. g. http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-mini-moisture-meter-67143.html) Are those truly splits or just logs with a smaller diameter (aka larger branches)? Those need much longer to season IMHO. You also say you burn softwood; has that been split and stacked for a year?

I bought a moisture meter. What are good readings.

 

[webby3650]

I bought a moisture meter. What are good readings.

Anything under 20% is best. It has to be measured in a fresh split.

 

[Cornelis]

Anything under 20% is best. It has to be measured in a fresh split.

Ok. I just took one from the middle of the pile the outside was about 14% and than split it and that is 24%

 

[webby3650]

What kind if wood is it? If its oak, this could be an issue. Until its stacked in the sun and wind, it might never get any dryer than that. That measurement means that app. 24% of its weight is water that has to be boiled out of the wood before it can make heat. In turn, this steam kills secondary combustion and efficiency.

 

[Cornelis]

What kind if wood is it? If its oak, this could be an issue. Until its stacked in the sun and wind, it might never get any dryer than that. That measurement means that app. 24% of its weight is water that has to be boiled out of the wood before it can make heat. In turn, this steam kills secondary combustion and efficiency.

No clue what wood it is but it is not oak.. So you are saying 24% is too high.

 

[webby3650]

No clue what wood it is but it is not oak.. So you are saying 24% is too high.

Yes, it's too high. It needs to be under 20%. 15% or so is ideal. For hardwood it can take another year to get from 24% down to 15%. Get it stacked out in the sun ASAP

 

[begreen]

No clue what wood it is but it is not oak.. So you are saying 24% is too high.

24% will burn by winter. It won't be ideal, but it will probably be down to 22% by Nov.. That isn't awful. If this is the same wood you were burning last year you should notice a nice improvement. Stack the wood so that it is a right angles to the prevailing wind and cover it on top only.

 

[Cornelis]

24% will burn by winter. It won't be ideal, but it will probably be down to 22% by Nov.. That isn't awful. If this is the same wood you were burning last year you should notice a nice improvement. Stack the wood so that it is a right angles to the prevailing wind and cover it on top only.

Ok will do there is always a lot of wind and sun where the wood is

 

[begreen]

If you can get hold of some ash that is already seasoned that would be ideal to mix in.

 

[Cornelis]

like to thank everybody for there help and comments

 

[Cornelis]

That is a modern EPA-stove with a 2.7 cu ft firebox; should be plenty to heat your house even when it is drafty. Do you have problems getting enough heat or why do you want to replace it? Right now I would say there is more a problem with your installation (like potentially missing a chimney liner) and maybe the stove operation and wood than with the stove itself. Do you use seasoned wood? How long has it been split and stacked?

I did measure the box and I come out on 2.32 maybe I did something wrong can you tell me how to do this.
It is not much of a difference was just wondering

 

[Grisu]

I did measure the box and I come out on 2.32 maybe I did something wrong can you tell me how to do this.
It is not much of a difference was just wondering

I don't have the stove; was just looking up the firebox size the manufacturer gives on his website. There does not seem to be a defined standard regarding the measurement of firebox sizes. Thus, you may be perfectly right and the size is actually closer to 2.3 than 2.7. It is just too bad that your stove seems to be broken beyond repair as its size should be sufficient to heat your house when using properly seasoned wood. I really wished we could have saved you the expense of buying a new one; money that would be well spent in upgrading your insulation and fixing leaks.

 

[begreen]

Some manufacturers measure the "firebox" including the area above the baffle. This is disingenuous IMO.Your measurement is probably more accurate for the actual usable capacity.

Before giving up on the stove. Take a good straight-edge and put it across the front top face of the stove where the door gasket makes contact. See if that area is flat and true. Then do the same thing for the door edges. If the door is warped, insist that the dealer replace it under warranty. If they suspect overfiring, make them prove it.