GeoSpring electric hot water tank
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Been thinking about a HPWH for awhile. Kills me when it's 90* outside and the oil kicks on for hot water. Does anybody know if these things can be plumbed into the oil furnace as a backup. The furnace has a hot water "zone" the heats water in a 40 galloon tank (basically an electric water heater w/out elements). Not sure there would be any real advantage, just wondering.
![[Hearth.com] GeoSpring electric hot water tank](http://s45.photobucket.com/user/gonogo/media/Untitled_zps4b03fcf3.jpg.html "[Hearth.com] GeoSpring electric hot water tank")
That's a good deal, but with those rebates it's still only $150 at Interstate Appliance.
http://www.interstateappliance.com/ge-water-product-geh50deedsr.html
http://www.interstateappliance.com/ge-water-product-geh50deedsr.html
ChadD
Burning Hunk
I saw that chad, now i'm just gunna wait till it's $999 again, have until the end of the year before the rebates expire.
I am going with the marathon from Rheem/Ruud. It is not a heat pump unit but has a poly tank that is fiberglass reinforced and has a lifetime warranty on the tank and 5 years on the elements and stats. Most utilities or Coops have discounts on them because they are in the 700+ range and have spray on insulation. I might later add a stand alone heat pump unit but I do not ever want to lug another water heater out of the basement because of rust. I calculate a much faster payback on this unit than any other electric hot water heater on the market. It might not save the $$ of a heat pump unit but it is extra insulated compared to a conventional electric and it should be the last whole unit I will have to fork out the money for as long as I own the home.
I absolutely love the technology and idea of a heat pump water heater and know they have actually been used for years in other countries with high electric rates. I just can't justify the cash unless the rebates jump here but I can justify spending the money on something with a lifetime tank warranty.
http://www.marathonheaters.com/consumers.html
My coop price for the 50 gallon tall heater is 713.00 and a 40 is like 675
I absolutely love the technology and idea of a heat pump water heater and know they have actually been used for years in other countries with high electric rates. I just can't justify the cash unless the rebates jump here but I can justify spending the money on something with a lifetime tank warranty.
http://www.marathonheaters.com/consumers.html
My coop price for the 50 gallon tall heater is 713.00 and a 40 is like 675
I retired a 32 year old oil fired water heater in 08, went electric. Need to change the anode every 5 years.
iceguy4
Minister of Fire
First off a HPWH is way more efficient then oil...second ..plumb your system to use either or. its a simple plumbing job. for me, I don't have to use a de-humidifier in my basement now as the HW heater does the job.As near as I can figure not having to use my dehumidifier now means I'm getting one or the other free
and "anything free tickles me" BTW I have the AO Smith unit...60 gallons for just me and the missis
Anyone know how much water comes out using HP mode?, for now i might just use a 5 gallon bucket and dump it until figure out to get a pump to drain in my washer drain
I've been getting about a half gallon per day of condensate from my Geospring this summer. I have a bucket under the drain outlet pipe. I use the water on the plants in the garden.
Thanks for the reply, thats not bad, i dont know how much my dehumidifier uses as it drains into a drain in the floor that was susposed to be a shower when they poured the foundation
Picked it up saturday, the height of my old tank is 4" lower, it was installed in 2008 when i bought the house, appears to be copper to a 3/4"10" long pex with shutoff valve, i will need to cut off the tank fittings and install new, now need to buy pex tools,which are not cheap, i added a toilet and used some pex clamps, but I'm nervous using those on my water heater, i have a automotive CV boot clamping tool which worked great on the pex clamps
Got it for $899...no tax!!
Got it for $899...no tax!!
Mine has been sitting in the basement for a month waiting for my basement finishing project to be over. It will be hooked up next week using Pex, and drained in to the sump pump.
Stolen from an article, but wanted those taking the fed credit to make sure they still have any of that credit to claim. Would be a kick in the pants to buy based on getting the credit and then find out you don't get it.
Read more at: http://phys.org/news/2013-01-tax-credits-energy-efficiency.html#jCp
The program still has a cap of $500 in total credits. That limit goes all the way back to 2006, when the very first credits became available, Kweller said. That means if you've already claimed $500 in credits for energy-efficiency improvements, you're not eligible for more.
Read more at: http://phys.org/news/2013-01-tax-credits-energy-efficiency.html#jCp
Read more at: http://phys.org/news/2013-01-tax-credits-energy-efficiency.html#jCp
The program still has a cap of $500 in total credits. That limit goes all the way back to 2006, when the very first credits became available, Kweller said. That means if you've already claimed $500 in credits for energy-efficiency improvements, you're not eligible for more.
Read more at: http://phys.org/news/2013-01-tax-credits-energy-efficiency.html#jCp
What about using sharkbite or similar fittings? Would save you the cost of buying the tools... they sell a water heater kit that is two flexible connections with 3/4" nipples on one end, push-to-connect on the other. Also available with built in ball valves. They aren't cheap, but are cheaper than pex tools (if you won't be using them again, that is)
Yea i was going to go with sharkbite because the cold water pipe is offset to the hot water on my heater now, which would turn the new heater slighty side way's as the condesate drains to the rear, I dont like the idea of using a stainless flex-line sharkbite line either.
So I have a plumber buddy that will hard pipe it in next Sat.
So I have a plumber buddy that will hard pipe it in next Sat.
Nice, I want to do this so bad, but the plumbing and electric costs involved scare me. Plus, I don't want to get rid of my boiler.... simply not use it as much, but keep it alive and cycling water...
If your boiler is "cold start" its going cold in the course of the day in the summer which is not much different then having it off. Now if its maintaining temp then that can be a different story even in that case though they are designed to go cold.
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