Froling S3 turbo install chimney issues?

[tractorsam]

Hello, I am attempting to install a Froling S3 turbo and am running into some issues which are probably very simple/straightforward to some people here. I have installed a 6” Selkirk chimney through the wall and that was reasonably self explanatory. I am currently working on the double wall stove pipe between the S3 and the through the wall. The basic double wall stovepipe is easy enough but I’m having problems on either end, I think I have purchased every type of available fitting for this pipe and am at a loss. My main issue where the DWSP connects to the through the wall is that the stove pipe adaptor (that came with the through the wall) isn’t securely retained by the face plate (it won’t fall out but it moves more than I think it should be able to). My other problem is connecting the DWSP to the S3 outlet, the DWSP will not fit inside or outside of the connector, it all just seems to be exactly wrong. Hopefully someone here has some insight, I am attaching pictures of the components in question. Thanks, Sam

 

[PassionForFire&Water]

Your Froling S3 is a European boiler.
The inside diameter of your flue collar may be slightly off to our imperial sizes

Example: A 125mm flue collar is to small for a 5" (127mm) adaptor

Check what flue collar size you have.

Use the same brand chimney parts.
Don't mix and match; parts will not latch.

Looking at your pictures: I think you are missing the "adaptor" for that specific wall timble brand and size you are using

What is the size and chimney brand you are using?

 

[hobbyheater]

Same problem hooking up the Vedolux ( European) had to have a connector custom made !

 

[OffGridICF]

Selkirk makes a few different types of Class A chimney for outdoor use. I have the Sure Temp chimney and their double wall stove pipe (DSP) inside.

Does the Class A chimney come in through your thimble? It definitely should, but doesn't look like it in the photo. The Sure Temp through wall kit included a piece of Class A chimney that sticks through the wall. I had to get a longer piece since my ICF walls are about 13" and I wanted to space the exterior tee a little further from the wall to clear the eave above. I'll need to paint the stainless chimney or wrap it in black sheet metal. After I dust it ;-) The adapter from Class A to DSP twists into the Class A and there is a locking band to hold it. It's very solid. The DSP slides over this adapter with a snug fit. The adapter (or DSP) came with screws to secure it and a narrow finish band to cover the crimped end. Here's a picture of the wood stove chimney (same chimney types as the boiler) since it goes through the wall without an interior tee:

Here's a photo of the boiler DSP chimney transition to Class A at the ceiling support:

You can find all the Selkirk manuals and installation instructions by starting on this page: https://www.selkirkcorp.com/en/residential/

The DSP install instructions showing the adapters to Sure Temp and Supervent/Superpro are here: https://www.selkirkcorp.com/literature/DSP_Double_Wall_Stove_Pipe_Instructions_DSP_US.pdf

The flue on the S3 is connected to the DSP with an adapter from Tarm (FCA150 to 6" stainless). It slips over the S3 flue and the DSP fits onto it. You will want something that fits tightly so you can seal it well.

There are two tees in my DSP chimney to simplify cleaning and provide a place for a barometric damper if needed. The inside pipe of the DSP is not sealed, especially in the tees. I sealed all the joints between the pipes with high temp silicone (Permatex Copper, probably overkill) but failed to seal the gap between the cap of the tee and the outer pipe. This resulted in a room pumped full of smoke by the powerful induction fan. I used some stove gasket as backer rod and used the Permatex over top to seal around the caps on the tees. Cleaning the chimney will now require cutting the sealant to remove the caps but there is no more smoke in the room. Here is a picture of the boiler chimney including the 150mm adapter on the S3:

Also, watch out when reloading the boiler if it is still burning. If the smoke starts to get sucked up into the slot at the top of the loading door instead of down through the nozzle at the bottom close the door immediately. It is pretty exciting if that plume of smoke ignites with the door open! At least I still have my eyebrows ;-)

There are a lot more details on my Froling S3 Turbo install thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ith-850-gallons-of-storage-offgridicf.204701/