Follow Up: is this much wood worth buying a splitter for?

[Jags]

I am not aware of any "special" oil for break in on these little motors. Most people won't put 25 hours on a splitter per year. At a "normal" rate of 1 cord per hour that is 25 cords - or even at a slow pace of half a cord per hour, its still 12.5 cords. Far more than most people will produce in a year.

 

[lml999]

I did not use it, drove home in the dark and parked it in the garage. I'm off of work the next two weeks so I will let you know.

Without pictures it never happened!

 

[matt1@]

Just now reading this I thought I might mention especially since you have a new splitter I would agree with changing the oil sooner than 25 hours. Keep in mind that there is a specially formulated oil for air cooled engines such as mowers, tractors, some motorcycles and yes, splitters. I see people all the time use conventional automotive grade oil in their mowers and other small air cooled engines. I've been using synthetic motorcycle grade oils designed for air cooled engines for years because they have no radiator or coolant they tend to run much hotter than say a car with water cooled system for example. Knock on wood I've not had any engine issues in anything for over ten years. This includes my riding mower, push mower, generator, and snow blower. They are all older and run like brand new. Not trying to sound like a jack hole, just giving some food for thought when changing oil that's all

 

[Jags]

Keep in mind that there is a specially formulated oil for air cooled engines such as mowers, tractors, some motorcycles and yes, splitters.

I don't find any special oil requirements other than what is below. SG (SF) is a dirt common rating.

Virtually all small kohler engines require SF (Old) or SG rated oils with a viscosity appropriate for the temps it is operated in.

SG – 1989 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service –
Service typical of gasoline engines in cars, vans and light trucks, beginning
with the 1989 model year operating under manufacturers’ recommended maintenance procedures. Provides improved control of engine deposits, oil oxidation, sludging and engine wear relative to previous categories. Rust and bearing corrosion limits are the same as SF oils. May be used where SF, SE, SF/CC or SE/CC is recommended. All of LE’s MONOLEC Engine Oils exceed this classification.
(Exert stripped from here: (broken link removed to http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE%20Engine%20Oil%20Service.pdf))

There really isn't anything special about the oil that I can find. Open ears - willing to learn.

Just to check myself I reviewed service manuals for three different familys of Kohler engines and they all had pretty much the same language for the oil:

Other high-quality detergent oils (including synthetic)
of API (American Petroleum Institute) service class SJ
or higher are acceptable. Select viscosity based on
air temperature at time of operation as shown in table
below.

(stripped from manual here: (broken link removed))

 

[Montanalocal]

I have a Ramsplitter HV16 16 ton electric splitter, and I absolutely love it. Plug it in, flip the switch and you are in business. Tackles most everything in Ponderosa pine. It also goes vertical for the really big rounds.

 

[davidmsem]

Go through it check all bolts, fitting and such before you put it to work is my suggestion.

....found two loose screws.....hydraulic fluid was low......thanks!

 

[davidmsem]

Without pictures it never happened!

 ...let me know if you want a picture of the pizza oven......

 

[BrotherBart]

Congrats. That sucker looks nice.

 

[1kzwoman]

It may burp hydraulic fluid once you get it warm..like a auto tranny if overfilled.
FYI nice splitter

 

[WiscWoody]

Nice piece of serendipity for you there. I don't think I would have passed up that opportunity either.

A serious wood burning neighbor of mine passed on my idea of going in on a splitter so now he just borrows mine for a day every summer. He's the only one I'd borrow it to. Many burn wood up here and when they hear that you have a new splitter they seem to come out of the wood work...

 

[WiscWoody]

I don't find any special oil requirements other than what is below. SG (SF) is a dirt common rating.

Virtually all small kohler engines require SF (Old) or SG rated oils with a viscosity appropriate for the temps it is operated in.

SG – 1989 Gasoline Engine Warranty Maintenance Service –
Service typical of gasoline engines in cars, vans and light trucks, beginning
with the 1989 model year operating under manufacturers’ recommended maintenance procedures. Provides improved control of engine deposits, oil oxidation, sludging and engine wear relative to previous categories. Rust and bearing corrosion limits are the same as SF oils. May be used where SF, SE, SF/CC or SE/CC is recommended. All of LE’s MONOLEC Engine Oils exceed this classification.
(Exert stripped from here: (broken link removed to http://www.motorexbih.com/API-SAE%20Engine%20Oil%20Service.pdf))

There really isn't anything special about the oil that I can find. Open ears - willing to learn.

Just to check myself I reviewed service manuals for three different familys of Kohler engines and they all had pretty much the same language for the oil:

Other high-quality detergent oils (including synthetic)
of API (American Petroleum Institute) service class SJ
or higher are acceptable. Select viscosity based on
air temperature at time of operation as shown in table
below.

(stripped from manual here: (broken link removed))

The only special oil I buy is for my ATV since it has a wet clutch hydro matic (Hondamatic) transmission and it calls for something that's made for the clutch and tranny setup. The ATV takes nearly 6 quarts of oil for a 500CC, 2.3 quarts more than my Toyota car does! Otherwise I use normal engine oil in all of my air cooled engines and they run forever it seems. I broke in my splitter with Dino oil but after two changes I now use synthetic in it.

 

[davidmsem]

A serious wood burning neighbor of mine passed on my idea of going in on a splitter so now he just borrows mine for a day every summer. He's the only one I'd borrow it to. Many burn wood up here and when they here that you have a new splitter they seem to come out of the wood work...

They are coming out of the wood work.....

 

[davidmsem]

The only special oil I buy is for my ATV since it has a wet clutch hydro matic (Hondamatic) transmission and it calls for something that's made for the clutch and tranny setup. The ATV takes nearly 6 quarts of oil for a 500CC, 2.3 quarts more than my Toyota car does! Otherwise I use normal engine oil in all of my air cooled engines and they run forever it seems. I broke in my splitter with Dino oil but after two changes I now use synthetic in it.

Thanks......I'm using synthetic ......it only takes 0.6 quarts. I'm really enjoying this splitter!

 

[WiscWoody]

Thanks......I'm using synthetic ......it only takes 0.6 quarts. I'm really enjoying this splitter!

Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two. Are you using it this winter? I store my saws and the splitter for the winter and kick back to enjoy the heat from my labors.

 

[davidmsem]

Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two. Are you using it this winter? I store my saws and the splitter for the winter and kick back to enjoy the heat from my labors.

The break-in was done with conventional oil. Yes I'm using it this winter to prepare for next winter, as I'm splitting about 4 cords of mostly Ash. I did not expect to be a burner, found plans for my wood shed here and figured a fireplace insert would be a good idea. Insert installed in December and loving the warmth.

 

[Jags]

Did you break the engine in with conventional oil? They say that synthetic oil should be used only after running conventional oil for the first oil fill or two.

I too was in this camp for thought. That said - I have been told that I was in error. Syn oil is just fine for small engine break in runs. It was from a very reputable source and further investigation on the web seems to support this.

 

[1kzwoman]

So tell me was it enough to warrant spliter purchase. Have you proved it by hand splitting an hour??

 

[lindnova]

Perfect. I was thinking the same thing but wondering if they had some special lightweight oil in there for the first 25 and one of the rings to seat before proceeding. I'm comfortable with going after a few hours if people think it's a good idea.

They come with whatever oil speeco or tractor supply put in it. Probably 10W30, but nothing special.

I changed mine out to 5w40 CJ (diesel) rated oil after 2 hours to get the sand & metal chunks out, and then again at around 15 or 20 hr - no meter. No smoke or burning, runs great and starts ok in cold (mostly in garage at 50°). Yearly changes will be more than enough from here on. The diesel rated oil has more antiwear additives. If I was starting outside in the cold & would use a synthetic 5w30 or 0w30.

Oils labeled for air cooled engines are fine, but I have never used them and would not pay extra for them. These briggs are pretty simple and not particular about oil.

 

[WiscWoody]

I too was in this camp for thought. That said - I have been told that I was in error. Syn oil is just fine for small engine break in runs. It was from a very reputable source and further investigation on the web seems to support this.

You are correct as from the six or so sites I looked at said it would be fine to break in a engine with synthetic oil and that some cars come with synthetic oil from the factory. But a Popular Mechanics writer and Briggs and Stratton said that they would use conventional oil for breaking in a engine and then synthetic but they also said that the newer engine technology doesn't require that method any longer. The PM writer said it would simply be cheaper considering that the first two low miles oil changes for a car would be cheaper using conventional oil. I learn something new everyday.

 

[KenLockett]

For that new splitter - remember to change oil very early in the game. Like after a couple of hours of run time. It might very well be the best thing you can do for longevity.

Engine oil or splitter hydraulic oil?

 

[KenLockett]

Do you guys think using synthetic 5w30 in the briggs and stratton that came on the huskee 22 ton would make winter starting easier?

 

[WiscWoody]

This page has a lot of oil info and opinions from users. There's also a site on the web ran by a guy that tears down oil filters and rates them for all kinds of things like filtering, strength and flow. You can find it with a simple search.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Jags]

Engine oil or splitter hydraulic oil?

Engine oil. Only one reason to change hydro oil - contamination.

 

[psebowhunter]

I'm sure you're already past this point as you said the break in was done, but for what its worth i bought my huskee 22 last fall and the manual said to change the oil after the first 5 hours.

 

[FishKiller]

no one has mentioned the best part about having a good splitter.... the wife can run one!. I run the saw and log up the bucked pieces and she runs the splitter (besides really big rounds). after a few hours we have a very nice pile of splits. plus between the saw and the splitter i can hardly hear her yelling