Flue damper on a Jotul F500 V3

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Brogan007

Burning Hunk
Hearth Supporter
I'm having a new one installed soon, and after reading so many posts about inability to shut air down low enough...I bought an in-line flue damper. Simple 6" butterfly valve...purpose made for job. The insert I took out drafted great, and also had issues not being shut down enough, for a long burn.
Now, the installer is refusing to use a flue damper, saying it's against Govt regs and will interfere with clean burn tech.
Has anyone fitted a flue damper on one of these new Jotuls? Yes, I know I'll just retro fit the sucker afterwards...but this irritates me. What happened to the customer holding all the cards?
 
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I'm having a new one installed soon, and after reading so many posts about inability to shut air down low enough...I bought an in-line flue damper. Simple 6" butterfly valve...purpose made for job. The insert I took out drafted great, and also had issues not being shut down enough, for a long burn.
Now, the installer is refusing to use a flue damper, saying it's against Govt regs and will interfere with clean burn tech.
Has anyone fitted a flue damper on one of these new Jotuls? Yes, I know I'll just retro fit the sucker afterwards...but this irritates me. What happened to the customer holding all the cards?
How tall is the flue?
 
If draft was fine for the insert, then it will probably be ok for the Jotul. What is the length of the liner that the stove will be connected to?
 
I'm having a new one installed soon, and after reading so many posts about inability to shut air down low enough...I bought an in-line flue damper. Simple 6" butterfly valve...purpose made for job. The insert I took out drafted great, and also had issues not being shut down enough, for a long burn.
Now, the installer is refusing to use a flue damper, saying it's against Govt regs and will interfere with clean burn tech.
Has anyone fitted a flue damper on one of these new Jotuls? Yes, I know I'll just retro fit the sucker afterwards...but this irritates me. What happened to the customer holding all the cards?
I’m with you completely. I installed a damper like your talking about purely because where I live it gets very windy at times. Shutting the damper in the piping quiets the howling of the wind a lot. I don’t find myself needing it to additionally damp the stove but my jotul (upstairs- I have 2 stoves) is the pre emissions model.
 
I wonder if using a flue damper on a stove with a cat would burn it up? Not
Sure I would use one on my cat stove.
Burn what up?
 
Burn what up?
I guess now that I think about it it wouldn’t burn the cat up like over fueling or leaving the door open or just not using it correctly. Maybe I shouldn’t have said burn it up. I just mean damage the cat, clog it or anything. Any risks with a cat stove using a flue damper?
 
I guess now that I think about it it wouldn’t burn the cat up like over fueling or leaving the door open or just not using it correctly. Maybe I shouldn’t have said burn it up. I just mean damage the cat, clog it or anything. Any risks with a cat stove using a flue damper?
If used properly no it shouldn't be an issue.
 
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My Hearthstone manual clearly states a damper is ok to use if there is excessive draft. Does Jotul say the same? Or Do they specifically say not to install a damper? I would think that should be all you and or the installer needs to know?
 
My Hearthstone manual clearly states a damper is ok to use if there is excessive draft. Does Jotul say the same? Or Do they specifically say not to install a damper? I would think that should be all you and or the installer needs to know?
Yes, Jotul says the same in the F500 v3 manual. However, I would try it first without one. A damper can be added if needed.

How tall would you estimate the chimney flue is above the stove? One story, two, three?
 
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If draft was fine for the insert, then it will probably be ok for the Jotul. What is the length of the liner that the stove will be connected to?
25 ft or so. Draft is good, I just feel convinced that these stoves are designed to work. No matter what...so air flow will be more than many of us want. The ability to shut the air down far enough, so we can experiment....is likely not designed in to the unit.
 
My Hearthstone manual clearly states a damper is ok to use if there is excessive draft. Does Jotul say the same? Or Do they specifically say not to install a damper? I would think that should be all you and or the installer needs to know?
I'm of the opinion that we never get told the truth. We get told what's in the best interest of the person we're asking. So, when the installer says dampers are not allowed, because, because, because....my psyche sees right thru each answer and views it all as CYA for installer. Bottom line, I was looking for someone who had actually done this, and wanted to ask if they noticed a negative drafting effect, with the damper wide open. My installer said it would "negatively impact the swirling of the air that creates the draft" and he refused to install it.
LMAO. After using the new stove, maybe by Feb 2022, I'll decide to cut flue & install the damper. It's all good.
First World Problems!!! Our new Jotul F500 V3 stove looks awesome. Doors are so tight, not once did a paper sheet test move. Excited to try it.
[Hearth.com] Flue damper on a Jotul F500 V3
 
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These stoves have an issue with the Ashpan door sealing properly on a regular basis. A pipe damper only helps slow down an inherent problem. Jotul won’t own up to it but I’ve seen it in a few different situations, including our display burn model.
 
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These stoves have an issue with the Ashpan door sealing properly on a regular basis. A pipe damper only helps slow down an inherent problem. Jotul won’t own up to it but I’ve seen it in a few different situations, including our display burn model.

Recognizing the problem is more than half way to solving it. I'll leave the ashpan door tight closed, never opening it from new. That might help.
 
These stoves have an issue with the Ashpan door sealing properly on a regular basis. A pipe damper only helps slow down an inherent problem. Jotul won’t own up to it but I’ve seen it in a few different situations, including our display burn model.
Is this a design change with the V3 or the same as the old model? I can’t see any obvious changes from the parts diagram.

I’m sure bad ash pan door seals have damaged many stoves. I found a small leak in mine. What is acceptable? I like mine ash pan but could live just fine without it. I do think I can clean ash with less dust using it.
Evan
 
I'm of the opinion that we never get told the truth. We get told what's in the best interest of the person we're asking. So, when the installer says dampers are not allowed, because, because, because....my psyche sees right thru each answer and views it all as CYA for installer. Bottom line, I was looking for someone who had actually done this, and wanted to ask if they noticed a negative drafting effect, with the damper wide open. My installer said it would "negatively impact the swirling of the air that creates the draft" and he refused to install it.
LMAO. After using the new stove, maybe by Feb 2022, I'll decide to cut flue & install the damper. It's all good.
First World Problems!!! Our new Jotul F500 V3 stove looks awesome. Doors are so tight, not once did a paper sheet test move. Excited to try it.
View attachment 280964
There is absolutely no set answer as to how a damper will work. In some setups it could cause problems because even open it is a restriction. In other setups you will need one to control excessive draft.
 
Looks like a nice sotve setup. Was an insulated block-off plate installed in the damper area for the stove?

The mat in front of the hearth looks a little wimpy, even for ember protection. Is it fiberglass?
 
Tonight is first night we had the new, V3 stove operating, after the 3 break in fires. Stove top sitting at 400, cat temp ( side thermo that came installed , is at 1100). Air has been shut down fully for 2 hrs. half load of dry oak put in 2 hrs ago.
My initial impression is as I expected, there's more air getting in than I really want...and a flue damper would be nice to play with to shut down further. Oh well. I keep realizing I know more than most "professionals" and should tell them to stfu and just do what I tell them.
Predicting a 6 hr burn for the half load.. Not bad & the flames look pretty.
 
That sounds about perfect operating and cat temp for low air.
 
So it's 6.30am, 7 hrs since I left it and the V3 stove temp on top is 200, it still has a full bed of coals, lit right up when I added wood and opened up the air.
What else could I ask for? This is NC, so temps are very moderate. Farmhouse is old, with a ton of new glass in walls...so we'll see how it all plays out in Jan/Feb. Bottom line, I approve of the V3 stove.
 
If you should start developing a increasing pile of AM coals you could take some time to burn them down before reloading. Wide open primary air control for some time alone or with a additional 1 or 2 splits of softwood. Good to hear it's working out well initially. Keep up the reviewing if you have time.
 
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I decided to never open the ash pan door. So, it's been closed tight from day one. In fact, I don't use the front door either, doing all loading from left side door. Opening up the air lever on front, really sets it going, and closing it down completely....really shuts it all down with little flames. We had a Quadrafire 4100i insert for 4 yrs before this. The V3 shuts down further, is more airtight and puts out tons more heat. I pushed out the hearth & the VS is sitting well out from fireplace, so radiant heat is totally different. I sit 13 ft away & at 400 degrees it's pretty warm. Very pleased with stove. We own 60 acres, have a ton of wood, years out in front...so wood is as good as it gets.