Finally been using my stove (first ever..) questions/issues...

[Sprinter]

Do you have a screen on the chimney cap? Make sure it's not clogged up with creosote. Common problem.

 

[cabinner]

More updates. . I think you might be right about the wood. It does smoke quite a bit and takes a long time to get going. I'll get some store wood to eliminate it.

But even when the stove is sizzling - if I lower the air all the way down it seems like it will die. I think that if I do this it won't finish the wood even..

Could it be a stove thing? Would a morso perform better?

 

[Sprinter]

Get in a good supply of known good dry wood before we go any further. It's the most likely thing and it has to be eliminated before we can conclude anything. Get several days worth to work with.

It's not the stove. That model stove has many satisfied users and a good reputation. Like any other stove, it just needs good food and good air in and out

 

[cabinner]

Not easy to post these with my phone. I have many more photos to show when I get home.

These three shows how it is with the door slightly open and the air full on. Then with the door closed and full air. And last with door closed and all the way down. The order was open door - > closed air down - > closed air full. .. As you can see, with the air down it fizzles away..

 

[Holiday]

Fill the stove, tough to burn big pieces like that with just a couple in there. But if the wood isn't dry it's always a fight instead of being easy and enjoyable.

 

[Sprinter]

Fill the stove, tough to burn big pieces like that with just a couple in there. But if the wood isn't dry it's always a fight instead of being easy and enjoyable.

Right, but remember that if the wood is good and dry and draft adequate, even a small load should flare up nicely door closed. I do it all the time for small burns. Right now in fact. Smaller splits will help also, especially if the wood is not great.

 

[Holiday]

True enough, most definitely a wood problem. More air and smaller pieces helps you get by with borderline wood but it's not the same. I know because I burnt a bit this fall as compared to good stuff last spring and I would have wondered the same thing if I didn't already know better.

 

[cabinner]

Btw - I have the inferno gauge for the temp. Englander recommends placing it above the door on the surface face. .But if I place it there it will be squeezed by the door..... So I put it on the side. Is that giving me false reading? Should I put it somewhere else?

 

[Holiday]

On the door itself above the glass maybe?

 

[Sprinter]

The manual is a little unclear to me. It says to put it above the door on the right or left side. But that could mean to put it on a side panel high up. You may want to get an infrared thermometer (about $20) and find the hottest spot to put the thermometer. Most stove temps are measured on the stove top. I don't know why this one would be different.

What they are clear on is the maximum temps. They don't want you more than 600 max with 650 being overfire. These temps are lower than most stoves that are owned here, so don't apply other peoples experiences with high operating temps to this stove.

One of the active members here is an Englander rep. Mike is stoveguy2esw and you may want to PM him with the thermometer placement question. He's very helpful to Englander owners here.

 

[Grisu]

That first pic clearly shows wet wood IMHO. With the door and air open that wood should be engulfed in flames not just glowing like that. Maybe look for some pallets or lumber scraps if you cannot find any other dry wood. With the wood as green as it looks like you will have a hard time to get any good fire going.

 

[cabinner]

That first pic clearly shows wet wood IMHO. With the door and air open that wood should be engulfed in flames not just glowing like that. Maybe look for some pallets or lumber scraps if you cannot find any other dry wood. With the wood as green as it looks like you will have a hard time to get any good fire going.

 

[cabinner]

Strange issue posting here with Chrome...

I agree with everyone. I need drier wood. How do I accurately test for moisture content? MY meter is sig 20%... (it is a cheap one from ebay but I feel these things should be ok regardless)

I can buy a cord from this guy but how do I make sure it is dry?

Also, any recommendations on easy and proper stacking?

 

[DanCorcoran]

Strange issue posting here with Chrome...

I agree with everyone. I need drier wood. How do I accurately test for moisture content? MY meter is sig 20%... (it is a cheap one from ebay but I feel these things should be ok regardless)

I can buy a cord from this guy but how do I make sure it is dry?

Also, any recommendations on easy and proper stacking?

To measure moisture content, take a piece of wood and split it into two fresh faces. Then measure the moisture content by placing the pins parallel to the grain. Measuring on a face that has been split for days or weeks will produce a false reading.

Some suggest testing the meter by pressing the pins into the palm of your hand. With my inexpensive Harbor Freight meter, I get a reading around 32%. (P.S. Don't break the skin!)

 

[cabinner]

I'll do that.

By the way, is it possible to get MUCH better results with a morso?

 

[DanCorcoran]

I'll do that.

By the way, is it possible to get MUCH better results with a morso?

Before you think about a new stove, most folks on this site would suggest you work on the wood issue. Your stove is probably just fine. Hard to believe, but all of us who've stayed the course and let wood dry for 2-3 years (after bucking and splitting) are now believers.

 

[cabinner]

I trust you guys. Problem is - how do you know you are buying good wood? Splitting it in front of the guy and testing it seems extreme

 

[Sprinter]

I can buy a cord from this guy but how do I make sure it is dry?

It probably wouldn't be. It just isn't economical for suppliers to take the time and expense of adequately drying their wood. If it's truly dry, it's going to be very expensive and the guy will be willing to prove it to you. Tell the guy that's what you need to do because it's essential.

I don't know what the meter problem is. But put the pins on your palm like Dan says. It's pretty rough, but it should be in the low 30's normally. Then make sure you're using it correctly on the wood by pushing the pins in firmly on the freshly split face.

Let us know how that goes.

 

[BurnIt13]

You may have to limp though this winter, even with "seasoned" delivered wood since it is usually not as dry as it should be. If I were forced to buy wood I would probably buy compressed bricks first. You know they are dry, but it is mandatory that they be stored indoors. Is that an option for you?

Is it possible to buy wood in advance for next winter? That way it should be good enough by then. I bought wood for our first season in 2011. After going through exactly what you are going through I vowed to cut, split, and stack all on my own so that I have complete control. The guys that sell wood never have wood that is dry enough for EPA stoves it seems.

 

[cabinner]

BTW - my chrome browser stopped working with this site... using explorer for it. Anyone having the same issue?

Ok - then if buying wood doesn't guarantee me good dry wood as well then how about this: I walked my land a bit and I have many dead trees (still standing but clearly dead for several yeas) that I can cut, split, and stack. I will burn those with the hardwood floors I have and just deal with it... Then hopefully next winter this wood should be good by then. Right?

I don't see any other options...

 

[Sprinter]

I have many dead trees (still standing but clearly dead for several yeas) that I can cut, split, and stack.

Sorry, but they still won't be dry inside. Bark is waterproof and wood just can't dry with bark on it. Just a few days ago, I cut down a snag that was dead for several years and it was still 35% moisture content and even starting to get punky.

Try some "biobricks" or similar commercial compressed wood product like that. Or pallet wood, mill ends, etc to get by. If the wood is not too green, maybe like 30% or so, you could probably mix those materials in and get by.

 

[cabinner]

Then even if I cut those dead trees, split, and stack them now - they won't be dry for next winter?

 

[Sprinter]

Then even if I cut those dead trees, split, and stack them now - they won't be dry for next winter?

That depends on the species. If they are pine, for example, it likely would. But a lot of hardwoods would need more time. But it sure won't hurt to do it. The sooner the better for sure.

It helps a lot to split small for quicker drying also. and stack loosely for good air flow in a breezy area.

 

[Holiday]

The sooner and MORE that you get cut, split, and stacked the better. Whether you do it or buy it or whatever. I'm doing the same, put a stove in last spring and cut and split some maple in the spring. Well it was a late spring so that wasn't done til May and cold July so the wood is marginal and not ideal burning like some old stuff I had on my covered deck for 7 years. Did a bunch more this fall but it's tough getting ahead when just starting out.

 

[DanCorcoran]

One factor contributing to confusion in this regard is the issue of old stove vs. new stove. People who have been burning woodstoves for many, many years think that drying wood for 2-3 years is crazy. The difference is the stove. Older, pre-EPA approved stoves, were meant to take in lots of air and burn wood in any condition, emitting lots of smoke/pollutants. The EPA-approved stoves are designed specifically to burn very dry wood (15-20% moisture) with little to no smoke and pollutants. Thus, what constitutes adequately "seasoned" wood depends on your background and experience and, most importantly, the type of stove you're burning.