smoke show said:
Fair enough... Seems I dont have to many anyways.
Couple Haters out there.... In your famous words.
Just sayin....
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Fair enough... Seems I dont have to many anyways.
Couple Haters out there.... In your famous words.
Just sayin....
Nice Dex! No way that's dirty either. I am embarrassed to even take pictures of my basement. We have so much junk its pitiful! I need to do some 5S to tidy things up. Too many hobbies and lots of toys. Never grew up either!
Curious on how its gonna work for you. Mostly wondering how much radiant you'll get off it to warm the basement. Should be toasty upstairs. Planning on a stat?
Programmable can save some coin. I drop mine 4 degrees at night and about 6 to 8 during the day(counting on solar). Stoves off during these times and not eating pellets. But I have great heat rise and can afford to do so. Only thing I change is when temps drop below 20ºF at night, I switch the control to hi/lo and it lessens the heat loss. Still go to auto/off just before I leave for work in the am. I only do hi/lo when the bitter stuff comes around during weekdays. But don't want to jack your thread with my stuff. Just passing on tips for you. Just saying use it like a furnace if possible, May lesson your pellet consumption some? Worked for me anyway.
Did you hook up the return air?
Keep us posted! ;-)
Curious on how its gonna work for you. Mostly wondering how much radiant you'll get off it to warm the basement. Should be toasty upstairs. Planning on a stat?
Programmable can save some coin. I drop mine 4 degrees at night and about 6 to 8 during the day(counting on solar). Stoves off during these times and not eating pellets. But I have great heat rise and can afford to do so. Only thing I change is when temps drop below 20ºF at night, I switch the control to hi/lo and it lessens the heat loss. Still go to auto/off just before I leave for work in the am. I only do hi/lo when the bitter stuff comes around during weekdays. But don't want to jack your thread with my stuff. Just passing on tips for you. Just saying use it like a furnace if possible, May lesson your pellet consumption some? Worked for me anyway.
Did you hook up the return air?
Keep us posted! ;-)
mepellet
Minister of Fire
DexterDay said:
Looks nice! I'm jealous of your HUGE DRY CLEAN basement! Mine's small, wet, and cluttered... Each time I go into my basement I'm always trying to rearrange things to figure out how to fit more pellets in!
I'm curious what the airflow is through that 10" supply duct? Two 90's right off the unit will create a lot of static loss. Do you have a fan curve for the supply fan? We can figure out what your airflow loss is with those 90's if you have the curve and a good description of the rest of the supply & return air paths. I've never done it for a residential situation so it would be interesting.
mepellet said:
Will post all the measurements when I get home this evening.
And yes Jay, I have a programmable T stat I bought. Not hooked up yet. Its a touch screen Hunter model from Lowes. Little pricey, but lots of features.
DexterDay said:
this clarifies alot of your posts on safety and doing things right , for me
once you have something like this happen you never look at simple things the same
between my aircraft background and a similar incident, outside brush burning gone bad
you check double check and just dont do certain things anymore
DexterDay said:
Kind of figured you'd go all out there too! You must be tough to get gifts for? Man has everything you can think of and those you can't! ;-)
Eatonpcat
Minister of Fire
j-takeman said:
Just send the gift you were gonna get for Dex to me...I need lots of stuff!! %-P
mepellet
Minister of Fire
DexterDay said:
The elbows look to be 1x radius with 4 sections correct? If so, assuming an airflow of 1000 cfm, (complete guess on my part) there's about 0.2" of static pressure just in those two elbows assuming even airflow in the cross section of the 10" duct. In a perfect world, a straight duct about three duct diameters in length is recommended after anything in the airstream that would disrupt the flow. Examples in your system would be the fan in the stove or a duct fitting like an elbow. This is to allow the air to have a clean flow throughout the cross section. I can't think of a way to accurately determine the cfm loss unless we have a fan curve. Nothing to worry about especially since you seem to be happy with how it turned out, but just got me curious anyways.... Got to admit, I am certainly jealous!
I will most certainly listen to what you have to say. As I am feeding 6 registers upstairs and seem to have good flow.
It has a 800 CFM blower on it. There is a 36" section after the last of the 2 90*'s. Then it goes into the insulated Certainteed Duct. That runs almost the length of the house. Have dampers installed so it only feeds that one side. I will measure the main trunk that the registers feed off of later and post the measurements.
I am inpressed so far. Ran it on level 1 all night and kept the whole house about 72*. Granted it was onlu 36* for the Low outside, but not to bad in my book.
It has a 800 CFM blower on it. There is a 36" section after the last of the 2 90*'s. Then it goes into the insulated Certainteed Duct. That runs almost the length of the house. Have dampers installed so it only feeds that one side. I will measure the main trunk that the registers feed off of later and post the measurements.
I am inpressed so far. Ran it on level 1 all night and kept the whole house about 72*. Granted it was onlu 36* for the Low outside, but not to bad in my book.
Hey Dex, I am originally from Sandusky so I know what winter on the lake is like and I know that is why you have all those stoves. Lol.
Do you have it tied in to the return air? Or just sucking in air where it sits?
Do you have it tied in to the return air? Or just sucking in air where it sits?
Right now it has no return. I run the woodstove in the basement and can easily get it 85* down there. So that furnace aids in moving the hot air. Only about 45 min from Sandusky. Lake effect snow sucks!!
Sandusky. Home of Cedar Point. The greatest theme park in the USA!
Sandusky. Home of Cedar Point. The greatest theme park in the USA!
Eatonpcat
Minister of Fire
Cedar point was right in my backyard when I was a kid. I havent been in 10 years probably.Still have a lot of family up there.
Mepellet- The house is 70 ft long. But the Main "Trunk" that the Fahrenheit feeds is just about 50' long. With 20' of it being 6" tall x 14" wide (actual 4" x 12") and the last 30' being 6" tall x 18" wide (actual 4" x 16"). Its Certainteed UltraDuct Gold. Its 1" thick on all sides (reason for actual internal duct size).
2 of the ducts run right from the Main Trunk (registers above, with a 5 x 10 hole cut into main line). Then the other 4 ducts that lead off of the Main line are 5 ft long and what appears to be 4" or 5" diameter (Its also very insulated - its about 8" in diamter with insulation on them).
6 ducts total - 2 in line and 4 with 5 ft 4" or 5" feed lines
50 ft of Main line (20 ft is 12" x 4" and last 30 ft is 16" x 4")
Fed from Fahrenheit with 10" duct - 90* off of furnace (8" of horizontal that houses the backdraft damper) then another 90* straight up with 32" of vertical before entering duct for house.
800 CFM blower and getting 135* air temps in the trunk on the Furnace (32" vertical section has a small screw hole I'm stick thermocouple through)
Feels pretty good upstairs. Had my Sons Boy Scout meeting tonight. Sealed it up before I started this post. Damn it works good. Much better than I thought. Granted its only half the house, but the way the return air is, and the woodstove cooking too.... Whoa....
Hope your findings are not terrible. I was thinking of hooking the Cold air Return up, but with the heat from the woodstove available. Its seems stupid not to take advantage of all that hot air thats so hard to move upstairs.
And to the loose wires across the ducts, (Jay-Smoke) the entire house is wired this way. Nothing drilled through the rafters. Asked about it when purchasing. Was told its legit. As long as the junction boxes are sealed. Its been that way for 17 yrs. When we had the fire, they had to replace all the insulation in-between the rafters, all the HVAC, and some of the electrical and plumbing. When they did all that, I think they made it look a little worse. But Insurance agent said it was A.O.K.... Just an FYI. I have looked into it because I thought it wasnt right. My little township out in Bo-Dunk Ohio dont care much about anythin???
Anyways. T-stat hook up tomorrow and then a little more sealing. Found where they half @$$ed some of the ducts feeding off the main line. Only heat taped where you can see. Top 6"-8" across, where you can see, has no tape and it blows the flame of my lighter out. As much as I like this, I hope it only gets better. Long Post.......
2 of the ducts run right from the Main Trunk (registers above, with a 5 x 10 hole cut into main line). Then the other 4 ducts that lead off of the Main line are 5 ft long and what appears to be 4" or 5" diameter (Its also very insulated - its about 8" in diamter with insulation on them).
6 ducts total - 2 in line and 4 with 5 ft 4" or 5" feed lines
50 ft of Main line (20 ft is 12" x 4" and last 30 ft is 16" x 4")
Fed from Fahrenheit with 10" duct - 90* off of furnace (8" of horizontal that houses the backdraft damper) then another 90* straight up with 32" of vertical before entering duct for house.
800 CFM blower and getting 135* air temps in the trunk on the Furnace (32" vertical section has a small screw hole I'm stick thermocouple through)
Feels pretty good upstairs. Had my Sons Boy Scout meeting tonight. Sealed it up before I started this post. Damn it works good. Much better than I thought. Granted its only half the house, but the way the return air is, and the woodstove cooking too.... Whoa....
Hope your findings are not terrible. I was thinking of hooking the Cold air Return up, but with the heat from the woodstove available. Its seems stupid not to take advantage of all that hot air thats so hard to move upstairs.
And to the loose wires across the ducts, (Jay-Smoke) the entire house is wired this way. Nothing drilled through the rafters. Asked about it when purchasing. Was told its legit. As long as the junction boxes are sealed. Its been that way for 17 yrs. When we had the fire, they had to replace all the insulation in-between the rafters, all the HVAC, and some of the electrical and plumbing. When they did all that, I think they made it look a little worse. But Insurance agent said it was A.O.K.... Just an FYI. I have looked into it because I thought it wasnt right. My little township out in Bo-Dunk Ohio dont care much about anythin???
Anyways. T-stat hook up tomorrow and then a little more sealing. Found where they half @$$ed some of the ducts feeding off the main line. Only heat taped where you can see. Top 6"-8" across, where you can see, has no tape and it blows the flame of my lighter out. As much as I like this, I hope it only gets better. Long Post.......
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DexterDay said:
Long thread.....
I thought maybe those loose wires were an old indian trick. :lol:
BTW I'm calling dibs on the Fahrenheit.
Long post? I'd say took an hour to read it! ;-)
Looks good dex, Glad its working for you. Return air? I don't have it either. By the time the air gets back to my basement its cooler than the air upstairs. My return path is right by my drafty front door. Keeps that area warm as there isn't any duct there either! Nice convection loop for the whole house. Basement stays in the mid 60's which is fine for me.
So if I ever hooked up a return? I'd have to have a tee with a damper or something I could open to allow heated basement air in. This way I could use the wood stove and do just what your doing. Suck the heat with the Omega's fan and force it upstairs. A back up JIC!
Your about done besides the stat. Are you going to run it like a furnace and set it back when away or sleeping?
Looks good dex, Glad its working for you. Return air? I don't have it either. By the time the air gets back to my basement its cooler than the air upstairs. My return path is right by my drafty front door. Keeps that area warm as there isn't any duct there either! Nice convection loop for the whole house. Basement stays in the mid 60's which is fine for me.
So if I ever hooked up a return? I'd have to have a tee with a damper or something I could open to allow heated basement air in. This way I could use the wood stove and do just what your doing. Suck the heat with the Omega's fan and force it upstairs. A back up JIC!
Your about done besides the stat. Are you going to run it like a furnace and set it back when away or sleeping?
Jay, I got the T-stat installed today... One problem. It doesn't work. I thought I had it hooked up correct, but I guess not. Its on the RH and W1, then there is a jumper wire from Rh and RCR (said to leave jumper in for 2 wire system).
Never used a regular t-stat for a Pellet stove.
Someone please correct where I have gone wrong. The furnace is set to T-stat (Was off and cold when I hooked it up) and the wires are hooked up internally.
Thanks for any thoughts. Its a touch screen hunter model. 7 Day programmable.
Never used a regular t-stat for a Pellet stove.
Someone please correct where I have gone wrong. The furnace is set to T-stat (Was off and cold when I hooked it up) and the wires are hooked up internally.
Thanks for any thoughts. Its a touch screen hunter model. 7 Day programmable.
Did you turn the controller on the furnace on after hooking every thing up?
Then there is always the ever enjoyable break in the wire going to the t-stat issue. Remove the wiring from the screws (or whatever) on the stat and twist them together.
Is the stat in heating mode and are all of the programming slots set to allow it to operate. Then we have the is the temperature such that it should call for heat at all issue.
Then there is always the ever enjoyable break in the wire going to the t-stat issue. Remove the wiring from the screws (or whatever) on the stat and twist them together.
Is the stat in heating mode and are all of the programming slots set to allow it to operate. Then we have the is the temperature such that it should call for heat at all issue.
SmokeyTheBear said:
Yep. Furnace set in T-stat mode, cranked the temp to 90* on Thermostat. All looks good with the actual stat and wires. Im guessing that a 2 wire system is a 2 wire system (hooked up per operating instructions).
The break in the wire could be possible. I was pretty gentle running it. Just bought it the other day. Its a standard 2 wire thermostat wire, sold at my local hardware store.
May try and twist the 2 wires that go into the T-stat and see of that will fire the furnace. If it does, I know its my wiring of the stat. If it doesnt, then its in the wire or something may be wrong with the terminals in the stove. Its about a 25' run of wire.
Will check it out and post the results when I get home this evening. Try and post a pic of the wiring.
Eatonpcat
Minister of Fire
Eatonpcat said:
Thanks B.. Called around today looking for diffenent pellets. Reports (guy at work) of Hamers near Middlefield and then Old Dominion in Middlefield at TSC (I called to see if they had Hamers).
Never burned either brand. Also there was a Hearth shop in Norwalk that had Appalations. Just throwing it out there in case you wanted to take a Drive one day..
hey dex, i have the same stat i think model # 44668 or 44660. just hooked it up 2 months ago. you dont need the jumper for pellet stoves just go to RH and W/B. does it call for heat? should be a little flame next to the word heat.
bigdaddyste said:
Its a 44860. Pretty nice unit. Just getting home, but taking the Wife out to Dinner. So all testing will be put on hold.
So remove the jumper?? Roger. Will try that when I return. Parents are gonna watch the kids for a few hours. 1st time in forever we have went out alone. Gonna be nice.
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