Everything's cooling down
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
I missed the 11' distance previously, but this is correct, assuming the OP's pitch is something less than 24:12.
No, the measurement to the closest part of my roof is 11'. Not to the peak, that would make my chimney easily 30-35 feet!
WriteNoob
Burning Hunk
I think we're crossing wires, here. (If that post was in answer to mine.)
If you measure ten feet, from your chimney, then imagine a level line from that point back to the chimney, your stack should be a minimum of two feet above that, at the top. With the air cooled, outside pipe, and the various 90* bends, you've already got a few others obstacles to overcome, if I'm getting everything else right. Being below that minimum may be the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back?
Remember that 2' is the minimum, and may not be enough, if other factors warrant. If I'm wrong, here, I hope someone will please correct me. I'm new to this, as well.
If your place is as drafty as you say it is, I'd be surprised if just an exhaust fan would tip the balance, but a big old interior masonry chimney might do that to you.
Have you made sure your old fireplace is sealed up tight and not creating a vacuum inside your place that's working against your stove draft?
Have you made sure your old fireplace is sealed up tight and not creating a vacuum inside your place that's working against your stove draft?
Lots of good - and not so good - information in this thread.....
Firstly, the idea that taller chimneys do not reverse is bunk. I have had the strongest reversals on some of the tallest chimneys...this makes perfect sense since the cold air has a longer path in which to fall and gain speed and pressure.....
I suspect that the post mentioning the Draw Collar may be the easiest solution...or at least one part of the solution. Whether or not the chimney is tall enough can probably be figured out by how well the stove and chimney work once the chimney is warm and going well.
But this seems to be a case of negative pressure in the home pulling against the chimney and winning.
http://www.gulland.ca/fhs/hhstoc.htm
is about all you'd ever need to know, but we don't need to study it all here. Basically, the problem at hand needs to be looked at and solved.
Chimney height is usually figured out by subtracting the total by the resistance caused by the elbos. If the total chimney is 18 feet from the stove flue collar - the two turns reduce it by about 5 foot each, so the effective height is only 8 feet. So, adding a bit would not harm anything and would help draft during the burning of the stove. BUT, it will likely not solve the reversal when things get low.
That would be solved - at least partially - by the combo of the draw collar and making sure that the room does not have excess negative pressure caused by a nearby furnace, exhaust fans, etc.....
Firstly, the idea that taller chimneys do not reverse is bunk. I have had the strongest reversals on some of the tallest chimneys...this makes perfect sense since the cold air has a longer path in which to fall and gain speed and pressure.....
I suspect that the post mentioning the Draw Collar may be the easiest solution...or at least one part of the solution. Whether or not the chimney is tall enough can probably be figured out by how well the stove and chimney work once the chimney is warm and going well.
But this seems to be a case of negative pressure in the home pulling against the chimney and winning.
http://www.gulland.ca/fhs/hhstoc.htm
is about all you'd ever need to know, but we don't need to study it all here. Basically, the problem at hand needs to be looked at and solved.
Chimney height is usually figured out by subtracting the total by the resistance caused by the elbos. If the total chimney is 18 feet from the stove flue collar - the two turns reduce it by about 5 foot each, so the effective height is only 8 feet. So, adding a bit would not harm anything and would help draft during the burning of the stove. BUT, it will likely not solve the reversal when things get low.
That would be solved - at least partially - by the combo of the draw collar and making sure that the room does not have excess negative pressure caused by a nearby furnace, exhaust fans, etc.....
Bagelboy
Feeling the Heat
I don't think making fun of me, Joful, is very constructive! I may not be as "intelligent" as others on this site, but I have been burning wood for over 35 years and helped a few install their stoves. I come to this site to learn and to try and help others, not to get put down! I did also state that his other fireplace could be causing some of the problem if not sealed up.
Forgetting about the off-topic part - extending a chimney would be the solution IF he reported that the stove didn't work right once burning, etc.
But, extending chimneys almost never solves the problem of reversing chimneys - and what he has is a reversing chimney.....
I don't think Joful was trying to be nasty....maybe just bantering which should have been kept out of the thread. Anyway, let's solve the problem and not have back and forth of what our respective IQ's are!
As Gulland says - you'd expect chimneys to be simple, but they are not! That's why he wrote a book on them...and that book is just part of the info. Still, I think the advice I gave in my former post is correct - a little of this and a little of that is needed to solve this one.
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