Gbawol42
Burning Hunk
I'm sure its buried in the post somewhere, but what did you set your high and low temps at?
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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I'm sure its buried in the post somewhere, but what did you set your high and low temps at?
What happens if you simply detach one of the wires from the thermostat? This should cause the damper to close (because there is an open circuit).
I took a little time to be sure I was connecting to the correct terminals on the thermostat. With a multimeter, check for continuity to find the two terminals that open when the thermostat is not calling for heat, and close when the thermostat is calling for heat.
Also, the manual damper switch on the control box has to be in the position that allows the damper to close -- you can disconnect the thermostat and figure out which position that is (and then label it so no one flips it and forces the damper open).
Low temp is at 320f and high of 460f. Few people have thier temps set lower but my draft is minimum. (I dont even use a baro damper) my chimney stays clean as a whistle. It usually cycles 2-3 times before it keeps the secondary burn going. I have the timer (60 minute) in parallel with the temp controller. I'll usually crank it to 60 mins every fresh reload... since my furnace idles at 320-370f flue it wont reopen the damper once the secondarys take off. I love the setup.
On cold snaps I have another relay that connects directly to the furnace with no timer. I have it set to open at round 220f to burn the coals off. (Regular weather disable it by returning the Alam2 values back to 0.)
Gbawol42
Burning Hunk
Awesome, thanks. I am currently trying to dial in my temp controller so these values are helpful. I have never gone more than 20 minutes on a fresh reload (30 on a cold stove) do you find a better burn leaving the damper open longer? Just wondering if there was too much heat heading up the flue or if it was beneficial
By turning the dial to 60 mins won't keep the damper open any longer than it needs to achieve temperature wise.
Say if you have a few damp pieces of wood mixed in with your firebox and the secondarys don't take off to keep the flue at above 320f. (Which I have found to be the sweet spot on my furnace). It might need more than 2-3 tries (20mins). And if the secondaries do light they are usually always keeping the inside flue temp (for me) little about 320f. Just gives me extra confidence the fire won't smolder out.
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Believe I am running into this situation. Temps outside are right around 32F, so it is not hard to satisfied the thermostat. So the flap closes, secondaries are going for a bit only to eventually die down. At this point the blower cycles on and off all while the fire smolders. At some point we will get that camp fire smell, not there is smoke entering into the basement, but just that smell.
Does that mean I need to add a nail or something to keep the flap open or do I need to connect up my mypin to open the flap when the flue temp goes below 320ish?
Gbawol42
Burning Hunk
Ok it hits the upper limit of the temp controller, didn't think of that. This makes perfect sense now. I believe this is a setup that I may be coping in the future as it would solve the problem of me going downstairs and opening the damper again if the fire didn't take off like it should.
I think that 15 ft is just so the tstat doesn't get too much heat, too fast, directly from the furnace...
Paper clip on the damper flap works good...try it, see what happens. Sounds like wood may be marginal too...try adding some dry construction (pine) scraps to the load.
My draft ran more normal, to high...I had my T1 temp controller set to 350* high (close) 300* low (re-open)
I bent a nail to hang then grinded it flat on both sides untill I got desired flue temp.
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Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Are these temps for when the timer is active or were you controlling the draft over the entire burn cycle via the internal flue temp before the BD?
It is only when there is a "call for heat"...either from the timer, the tstat, or the manual switch. If there is no call for heat, then the damper is closed, and the only thing controlling the temp of the firebox (from getting too high) is the chimney draft not being allowed to be excessive...which a properly setup baro will generally take care of.
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
How did you program the MyPin?
Thinking about this low/high limit?
So the low limit keeps the damper flap opened under 320F and the high limit does? Just trying to figure out what the high limit is set for.
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Like I said above, first you need a call for heat from somewhere...that opens the damper. The controller will close the damper at your "high temp" setting. It will stay closed until the controller sees your low setting...at which point it will allow the damper to reopen, IF, there is still a call for heat. That's how mine worked...I didn't do the burn down coals thing like some do...I just didn't have as much problem with it as some...probably because I just fired up the stove in the fireplace if it was super cold out...no need to "push" the furnace then. (I ran both units at once)
And I tried using the tstat...I didn't like it, unhooked it. I just gave the timer 20 minutes or so after a reload, that was it...it was on "cruise control" the rest on the time...because I found for me, the best overall heat output was to leave the damper shut after the secondary combustion was started. The wood starts to go away fast if that damper is left open for too long...
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Think I figured out my issue...
I think what I didn’t have set is the “green” temp value under the TC temp reading. This value is set by pressing the blue AT button and setting the value to the high limit value set?
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Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Gearhead660
Minister of Fire
Sorry, still trying to understand all the temp controller info as I plan to add this mod to my burner...the temp controller is controlling the damper for the whole burn cycle of the load?
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
What is Hy1 set to? That is your hysteresis...or the range between high/low, or open and closed. If you want it to close at 440, then reopen at 340 Hy1 needs to be 100
And I just went out and looked, my temps were not 350/300 like I said before, they were 350/250.
I've got my old Tundra dug out and cleaned up after being ignored in the garage the last two winter's...she's gonna go to a loving home where she can once again serve her purpose by eating her master's firewood pile, and then warming his/her hands and feet!
I've got my old Tundra dug out and cleaned up after being ignored in the garage the last two winter's...she's gonna go to a loving home where she can once again serve her purpose by eating her master's firewood pile, and then warming his/her hands and feet!
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Is this setting correct?
Hy1 was set to 1. Tried to change it and now I can only set it between 320 (low limit set) and up to my hi limit of 440
What am I missing?
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
So I set the lower limit to 100, which allowed me to set hy1 to 100. I then set the lsp to 250 and hsp to 1200.
So lsp 250, hsp 1200 & hy1 100 and the “out” is triggering at 320 not at 250 and 350.
Now the green text reads 320 which is the value of alarm 1 and ao1 is set to 1.
So lsp 250, hsp 1200 & hy1 100 and the “out” is triggering at 320 not at 250 and 350.
Now the green text reads 320 which is the value of alarm 1 and ao1 is set to 1.
Gearhead660
Minister of Fire
Ok, I think I get it now. The temp controller is to keep it blowing hot air when heat is called for. I don't have mine hooked up to a t stat. I just load mine and let it put out the heat.
