I see what you're saying.. that brings up another point.. right now my oil furnace is running up a 9x13 clay flu.. I was considering running a 6 inch stainless liner for the wood stove and a 5 inch stainless for the furnace.. it's a straight shot for the oil furnace only 4 feet to the chimney.. the manual says not todo this.. I figured if they had indepenant flu what could it harm.. especially since its going to be rare they run simultaneously... any thoughts? I'm going to make a new thread soon. This is my last question here.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
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Yeah it should be fine if you run 2 liners. Hopefully you can get insulation on the 6"...even 1/4" would be better than nothing...I'd strive for the standard 1/2" insulation though!
I'll keep an eye out for your new thread
@Jpops , send me a private message, or I can send you one, just let me know.
I have info on an old Kuuma 1 for sale...might be a good interim solution for this winter...
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Teglovinvtec
Member
Guys thinking about adding an adjustable snap disc my furnace is serial number 688 just not getting the duct temps I want. I’d rather fan run hot for a shorter time then longer with cool air. I tried to search this thread but at 116 pages it’s not easy. If anyone knows the location of the disc on mine think it’s gen 1 and a link or details that would be greatly appreciated. Fan setting is at 1 or lowest
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-drolet-tundra-heatmax.140788/post-1895709
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Here is a couple that some have used...anything similar would work (other brands, etc)
As far as where it is...on early models it will be on the back...if you have the metal raceway that runs from the back, across the top and in between the 2 duct connectors, then you will find it under that raceway/cover in the middle of the top. The switch with the white wires (IIRC) is the one you want...confirm with the wiring diagram in your owners manual that is the fan control switch though. The switch with the red wires is the high temp limit switch, again, IIRC.
If you can wade through this thread a few pages at a time, it is worth it IMO, lots of valuable info...should answer about any question you'd have on a T1...
You can click to expand my sig line for this link...it will take you to an index of sorts for this thread...at least the first half of it…guess it needs an update for the last 40+ pages... http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/tundra-heatmax-information-guide.157330/
I think you'll find that the longer the blower runs the more heat is stripped from the flue and put into the house...even if the duct temps are low...now if it is heating the house fine as is and you just want it to shut off sooner...carry on.
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It might have been touched on but what do people think about a manual damper in your 6 inch exhaust? I have the heat pack and when I want to have a fire in my fire place it makes my heat pack down draft when I'm not using the heat pack. Thinking i could just install a damper and close it when the heat back is not in use to cut down on the smell. I read in the manual not todo this however, but I could have sworn I read of people doing it before in this thread.
To use it as you suggest should be okay...just make sure you open it before firing the HP.
Might not totally solve the issue though...manual damper doesn't close of the pipe completely... more like 80%.
Are the two flues tied together?
Might not totally solve the issue though...manual damper doesn't close of the pipe completely... more like 80%.
Are the two flues tied together?
No they aren't the fire place is a modern prefab. It draws a ton of air when it drafts that it just pulls from the hp too. I can solve it somewhat also by cracking the basement window as well.
Ah I see, yeah makeup air for a fireplace can be a rediculous volume...the main reason they are so inefficient. Probably still need to crack that window when you use it ..the air has to come from somewhere. Does the FP have doors? Running with the doors closed (if you can) would help limit air flow some
I dont have doors at the moment but I did plan on getting them. It actually kills the draft on the HP when they are both going at the same time as well. I was planning on some sort of a fresh air for it (HP) for when we run both. Plus leave that window open does help for that instance too.
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Quick question I'm checking the static pressure in my heat pack plenum.. I,m getting around .17. To increase the pressure what do I do? Close dampers or open? Or should I add one more feed from the plenum to the main duct work? Or change the fan settings which I really dont know what they are set to, I'm thinking high.. not sure what factory are.
Sounds like you are close enough IMO (call for .20"?) ...I don't worry about SP too much...basically if you are getting good temp rise between the return and the supply temps...good enough.
40-50* temp rise is common with my VF100...was about the same with the Tundra. Gas or oil furnaces often run more like 70* temp rise.
To answer your question though...closing dampers or registers on the supply side will raise SP
40-50* temp rise is common with my VF100...was about the same with the Tundra. Gas or oil furnaces often run more like 70* temp rise.
To answer your question though...closing dampers or registers on the supply side will raise SP
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
That's WAY high from what ours is. Our 75KBTU LP furnace has a temp rise of 48° using the LOW speed tap and 42° using the MEDIUM-LOW speed tap. I'm currently using the LOW speed tap as it still falls within spec. These were measured after 15 minutes of the furnace running.
Yes...but no point in getting the temp rise too high...start to lose efficiency to a small degree...more cool air over the HX strips heat from the flue gasses better
I'll have to test the temps with, seems like some registers are hotter than others. Also depends on when the fan kicks on.
Yeah you will probably have to cut the closer registers back to push the heat to the further ones...if you want more there. Its a balancing act
That makes a lot of sense my concrete floor is atleast 5-10 degrees lower than my first floor. I'll have the cold air return kit. I just need to install. Which I can see why would make a big difference now.
Gbawol42
Burning Hunk
Ok a little question on the heatmax 2, the manual states the blower has 4 speeds. I have never heard the blower change speeds, is it a manual change that I have to do based on static pressure needs? Or is it a variable speed blower based on plenum temps.
I have only heard the blower kick on at , I think, 130 degree and back off at 115 degree. Only one speed heard.
I have only heard the blower kick on at , I think, 130 degree and back off at 115 degree. Only one speed heard.
Both...you can change the "normal" speed manually by switching which tap is powered up (just like the T1) or it will switch to high speed if needed...but I think it takes a real hot fire to make it switch...like almost to the point of over firing.
Never have seen anyone say what temp it happens at...would be nice to know. Maybe shoot SBI an email and ask them point blank what temp it switches at...
Mine switched to high mode automatically today and I checked the temp and it said 175.
Quick question if I add one more 6 inch air duct from my plenum to my main supply duct. Currently i have 6. I'm getting .15ish and that's with most of my first floor ducts closed 70 to 80 percent of the way. If I add one more duct will it increase my sp or decrease? I feel it seems kind of inefficient that most my ducts on the first floor are close so much to get the heat up stairs plus my sp where it should be. Not to mention I heard my fan jump into high mode today so I'm nervous.
