Are you using the same temp controller settings as before? Think it's like 600f off/ 400f on when your timer is activated along with 275 minimum flue...
Also do you still own both of the original Tundra1 no cracks?
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
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Are you using the same temp controller settings as before? Think it's like 600f off/ 400f on when your timer is activated along with 275 minimum flue...
Also do you still own both of the original Tundra1 no cracks?
Pretty much same settings, 625f off, 425f on, 280f minimum flue. Still using both Tundra's, The one in the house that runs full time just developed its first crack this heating season.
I'm not too concerned about it ;-) This furnace owes me nothing.
When that one is worn out hit sbi up and get your new t2 lol. I'd say that's the best investment putting a temp controller on that funace. How many times does your damper open per heating cycle?
Even with the minor cracking I can see this thing going another 5-10 years no problem. I wouldn't own one with out the additional controls, my favorite part of the furnace. The variable speed blower modification is right up there too. As far a number of damper openings, it depends a lot on wood size, moisture content and wood load. A full load of really dry elm split medium/small will not cycle the damper much at all till into the coaling stage. Tonight I had a load of larger split size elm and hard maple that could be a bit dryer- that load cycled the damper some though out the entire burn cycle.
Oh yeah I found the same. Iv been burning subpar wood, but notice when I add my nice 3 year old css oak it makes a huge difference.
Thats pretty impressive results. Your still loading both shop and house stove every day?
Three loads a day thru the house furnace, shop furnace when needed for projects - couple nights a week plus week ends much of the time. I do have a propane unit heater that kicks on at 34F for times when I'm not out there to stoke the wood furnace. The propane heater really only runs when I need the extra heat to quickly warm a cold shop, the wood furnace alone would take hours - lots of cold concrete out there.
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
In a nut shell: Wet wood tends to want to smolder when only secondary air is available. Having some dry wood mixed in with the wet wood, the dry wood flames keep the wet wood burning.
Burns longer than my other wood (maple, ash, jack pine, elm). Around here oak is the premium wood if css for 3 years. I guess you could compare it to black locust because that's the only wood species here that comes close to the btu.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Sorry to hear that, but ironic I was just thinking about you a couple days ago that you're the only Tundra 1 (x2) I can think of that hadn't cracked yet.
Can we think of any uncracked Tundras out there yet?
trx250r87
Burning Hunk
Mine has not cracked yet...
Eric
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Eric
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Teglovinvtec
Member
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Teglovinvtec
Member
Guys am I missing something because this is my second season heating with this season wood super dry and this thing is struggling to keep me warm on a 30 degree day. The first season I had windows open I’m cleaning the chimney and heat exchanger is there something I’m over looking. Chimney draft on manomometer is -.04-0.6 any help would be appreciated
Hows it burning? Everything seem good overall?
Check your baffle, make sure its in its proper place and slid clear back
Check your baffle, make sure its in its proper place and slid clear back
Teglovinvtec
Member
Burns well and clean burn times are chitty bc its constantly calling for heat house is only 1300sq foot baffle is all the way back. How do the burn tubes come out so I can remove baffle and scrape maybe there buildup I couldn’t feel anything with my hand. My duct temps are only 80-85 compared to last year around 110
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
well, did you remember to close the windows?
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
What is the difference in your ΔT (return vs supply temp) from this year to last? Supply temps will only tell one side of the story.
Are you 100% SURE you are burning dry wood?
How about stack temps? Have those gone up over last year?
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The manual shows how to get the tubes out...just a partial twist, then slide it sideways and out...I'd pop a couple out and pull the baffle...check to see how much buildup is on the top of the firebox above the baffle board...that is a large heat exchange area too...doesnt usually need cleaned, but something has changed for you!
Teglovinvtec
Member
Teglovinvtec
Member
Well I pulled the burn tubes out cleaned the top part of firebox we will see what happens. I also saw that the baffle on top wasn’t seated completely where it goes I’m guessing when loading it moved
That thing running wide open for long periods of time is what SBI was claiming is making them crack...not that I buy that theory...its certainly not the most efficient way to run them!
Did you hook up a tstat that you weren't using before?
Did you hook up a tstat that you weren't using before?
Teglovinvtec
Member
sloeffle
Minister of Fire
I'd ditch the tstat. I haven't used mine in probably 6 years. All the tstat will do is send hot air up the chimney by opening up the baffle up front.
What is the MC of your wood ?
Any difference since you cleaned it?
When you clean the HE's, do they clean up real nice, like down to bare metal? I had one time I got into a little wood that was apparently not as dry as it could have been, left a hard layer of soot on the HE walls...really had to scratch to get it all off...it helped, but still didn't make a huge difference.
Mrpelletburner
Minister of Fire
Question regarding the operation of the Tundra II.
Without any mods installed, out of the box setup, does the distribution blower stay on without the thermostat calling for heat.
Trying to get a better understanding of how this furnace functions. I know the thermostat controls the primary air by opening/closing a flap. Just wondering how many people actually use the thermostat to control the heat.
Can’t locate any videos of this unit on YouTube.
Also looking for a video on how the Caddy operates.
Without any mods installed, out of the box setup, does the distribution blower stay on without the thermostat calling for heat.
Trying to get a better understanding of how this furnace functions. I know the thermostat controls the primary air by opening/closing a flap. Just wondering how many people actually use the thermostat to control the heat.
Can’t locate any videos of this unit on YouTube.
Also looking for a video on how the Caddy operates.
