Kids, don't try this at home. Those NIELs pack a wallop.
Jason, I'm sure this was in the name of science and quality control, right?
More like Christmas over at the in-laws and wanted the stove to burn for 30 hours (get a Blaze King right
)Envi Blocks will void my stove warranty!
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More like Christmas over at the in-laws and wanted the stove to burn for 30 hours (get a Blaze King right
)
800* is kinda the max target before completely shutting the air off. I certainly do not run there for any length of time. I wasn't poking at you with any of my comments, sorry if that was perceived. Also, the temp gauge you described is brilliant, showing the max reached temp. If it could be invented, could it be tamper proof? I am suggesting some changes to our manuals as well as researching the availability of a custom temp gauge to give model specific readings, to be included with each stove.
The early VC stoves came with a quality thermometer. I still have ours and it is still accurate after many years of service.
![[Hearth.com] Envi Blocks will void my stove warranty!](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/107/107783-1805d57ef0e1719af97387a0b2fc6338.jpg?hash=6RzA-uxcNK "[Hearth.com] Envi Blocks will void my stove warranty!")
I actually think I have seen that before; may have been a barometer. But the principle should be really easy: Just have a second, "high-temp" needle on top of the actual temp needle. The upper one has a little pin underneath on one side that touches the lower needle. When the temp rises the lower needle pushes the high-temp needle forward but since there is no fixed connection between the two the high-temp needle will stop once the lower needle goes backward. I will leave it to the actual designer to make that tamper-proof.
If you are up for suggestions, two things that I found when looking at the Kuma Sequioa insert recently. First, I could not find the necessary depth of the fireplace to put it in. On the website it said something of 23" but it was not clear to me if that was total depth or how much the fireplace needs. I could not even find that info in the manual (although I admit I may not have looked hard enough). Second, I know it's common practice but I am sure most consumers would prefer to have dedicated manual for their product and not for the stove and the insert together. Should not be too difficult to pull those apart.
That is approximately what I mean. A temperature guideline for the inexperienced customer to know when they are burning efficient and when they are overfiring the stove. Maybe you can add some additional help. E. g. When temp reaches 850 F although the primary air is closed all the way do .... (close air hole, open door, whatever you think its best). In addition, "if that happens frequently please check door gaskets for leaks etc." There is so much knowledge here in the forum that is rarely found in the stove manuals.
clemsonfor
Minister of Fire
"Burn fine in inserts but not wood stoves"???? That makes no sense. I am running my stove as an insert. But if I take the trim kit off and pit legs on it, its a free standing stove. There are several makers like that. Im pretty sure bucks are this was too. So how is this the case? Can't say I would stuff the stove every square inch full with them?? Probably like the guys at the fire station who burn 35 year old stoves and told me I would burn my house down if I loaded my stove full?
I went with my moisture meter and tested "seasoned" firewood someone was selling on craigslist - 36%
Then I wen to two more firewood businesses with my MM, again, both in the mid 30's%.
Called another seller and was told, "we do cook to order" -we split the wood into a truck when you order and bring it to you.
I have now contacted close to 20 firewood sellers and none have wood that was slip prior to spring of 2013. Of these, their wood simply sits in large piles not getting sun and wind.
I don't think I will be burning this much this season.
Then I wen to two more firewood businesses with my MM, again, both in the mid 30's%.
Called another seller and was told, "we do cook to order" -we split the wood into a truck when you order and bring it to you.
I have now contacted close to 20 firewood sellers and none have wood that was slip prior to spring of 2013. Of these, their wood simply sits in large piles not getting sun and wind.
I don't think I will be burning this much this season.
Fact of life. Firewood sellers can't afford the space to keep wood around for two or three years. And if they did most of the fireplace burners they sell to wouldn't want stuff that looks old and grey and possibly has some mushrooms on it.
clemsonfor
Minister of Fire
What do you think of this deal that I have found on Craigslist?
Pallet of hardwood firewood. Cuts offs of hard maple oak hickory ash birch and beech. This is kiln dried material used to make furniture and flooring. $100 a pallet 5'x5'x5'. Multiple pallets available. This wood burns hot and is great for wood stoves or outdoor pits. Burns very clean. The wood hasn't been treated with anything. It is clean dry hardwood. Oak maple birch hickory. We make stair treads and flooring. It is all cut offs from the raw wood. It is fine for indoor and outdoor burning. The delivery fee is $50.
So, what do you think? 5x5x5 = 125 cubic feet (almost a cord) for $100 plus delivery. This sounds like a wonderful price for kiln dried hardwood, what do you think?
Can't buy wood in Idaho for that price and it wouldn't be a hard wood either. If it's dry and really 125 ft.3 it's a deal if you ask me.
Thanks, seems like a very nice deal, considering I have no seasoned wood as a first time wood stove burner.
I might have to cut the 5 foot long peices 3-4 times to get them 18" or under but it sounds like it is worth the trouble for $100/pallet. Do you think all the cutting will be worth the trouble?
That's a steal in my book. $100 for pretty much a cord of kiln-dried hardwood? I pay $200 for a cord of green wood. Since there is no picture I would maybe drive by and have a look at it. If it is ok I would take at least 3 pallets for that price.
No pics with the craigslist posting. I was wondering about the thickness and length of the cutoffs. Seems worth pursuing for this season's heating but make sure they fit in your stove without recutting.
I burn a couple pallets of bear bricks every year... nice because you can store in the garage. Just load up the stove and when you get to 750 choke it all the way down... you can throw a couple wet pieces on top. There 100 percent wood and if they don't state it in the written warranty you can tell them to get bent... I have a Travis avalon stove and nothing about it in my manual.. if the top of the stove starts to glow you are too hot so shut the air off. I like the bricks because you have more control and my stove is undersize so I like to burn hot with the fan on high. YES YOU CAN BURN TOO HOT SO MAKE SURE YOU SHUT THE AIR OFF AFTER 750. If you load with red cedar you probably could get hotter than the bricks.
Try this link please:
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Try this link for photos, what do you think?
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Ok.. but the kindling in the pic will burn hotter than the bricks and is not cordwood either. I burn everything in my stove so I guess the warranty is void. My woodstove dealer is oldschool so don't think he will turn me in on the bricks. If I do have a problem I will tell them I was burning cedar cord wood.
Finally, I see it. Not as great as it sounded originally. Will need lots of cutting and most pieces are rather small. Will be great for kindling and to get the stove up to temp; could be mixed in with semi-seasoned wood. However, you may run the risk of overfiring your stove similar or even worse than with the Envi-blocks given that the diameter is even smaller. If that is the best you can get I would take one or two pallets and start cutting it small to mix it with your not so good oak. Get also another 2-3 cords of green wood (not oak) to stack and dry for next year.
Yea, the pieces are rather small, would be a lot of cutting. I will give it some more thought. I really do not want any over firing problems.
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