Englander 55 TRP IP-S aka 25 IP-S
- Thread starter kenstogie
- Start date
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Just wondering if you should try 4-4-1 and see how that burns for you. Or did you do that already?
Yea I was wondering that myself. I will give it a shot and see how it goes. I am kinda glad it's not burning with that black soot. That $h!$$ gets on everything. Couldn't hurt to give it a go soooo....
FWIW 4 4 1 burned a little rich and dirty, which may be fine for my dates but not my pellet stove so back to 4 5 1.
Ok, stupid question time. Is there a way to "wake up" the display? If I hit On, it goes to startup mode, if I hit one of the up/down buttons it changes that setting. Maybe I'm a little OCD but sometimes I want to check what settings are active without changing anything. I suppose room fan down will usually not change anything, so if there's nothing else I'll just go with that.
push one of the bottom buttons, al that will do is display the setting for the bottom button, but the hr and bs settings will display after that
btbeam
New Member
I am interested in getting an ip as well. How is it doing in this miserable cold we are currently having?
Well, mine's been running gangbusters with no problems at all. Puts out lots of heat, but I've still needed to kick on the heat upstairs on a couple of the coldest nights to keep it warmish. I have the thermostat up there at 63. Upside is that it runs noticeably cleaner with less ash when it's running full bore most of the day as opposed to when it idles more on the thermostat.
While I'm sad that I had to burn some dinos to keep up, it's actually been heating the whole house (2000sf 2 story cape) more effectively than I anticipated. With the rated output I was expecting to have to run the upstairs heat more often than I've needed to.
Mine has been doing well........ However it was running with a lazy flame and filling the burn pot with pellets..... turns out the heat exchanger can get "clogged"
The fix?
Take off the fake brick and bang the living #@#&^&^ out of it with a "framing hammer" . That's according to englander too.
on a side note it has basically heated my house which is a two story split level ranch app 2100sf.
(I edited this to read what I typed originally not what that darn auto correct did on my phone.)
The fix?
Take off the fake brick and bang the living #@#&^&^ out of it with a "framing hammer" . That's according to englander too.
on a side note it has basically heated my house which is a two story split level ranch app 2100sf.
(I edited this to read what I typed originally not what that darn auto correct did on my phone.)
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More photos please! Getting real close to pulling the trigger on one of these... Let's see em burning
Its a taller unit...... i didnt realize how high when i bought it and the heat exchanger (on mine anyway) needs to be "tapped" on semi regular.basis BUT......the thing heats like a beast is very efficient and heats my house. Its a great unit!
I can't find this measurement online..
How far from the floor is the flu exit and oak ?
Also, this will be installed infront of a fireplace replacing a wood stove. Also curious if an OAK can be routed through the floor.. Unfortunately I don't have an outside wall to work with. Are you running an OAK on yours?
Thanks!
Those measurements are on page 5 of the manual: http://englanderstoves.com/manuals/25-IP.pdf
I've read of OAKs being routed into a basement, but the manual doesn't state whether that's ok or not. I think it is possible during a power outage for the flow of exhaust to reverse, so you don't want to possibly dump that into your basement.
Englander does require the OAK, though I don't know all the reasons for it. Maybe some more details of your install would help with a solution?
The stove will be replacing a current wood stove.
The chimney is lined with a 6 inch stainless rigid liner. I plan to adapt the pellet stove to this liner using the duravent adapter.
The stove is located in front of the fireplace, in the center of the room. I don't really have anywhere to go with an OAK except up, or down. Up, would be impossible...
Here is a photo to help out.. Sorry for the hijack, if this needs it's own thread lemme know
![[Hearth.com] Englander 55 TRP IP-S aka 25 IP-S](/talk/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F14%2F02%2F10%2F3y7ydequ.jpg&hash=66ec3f189e854c8e85edcc1d3d363cb8 "[Hearth.com] Englander 55 TRP IP-S aka 25 IP-S")
The chimney is lined with a 6 inch stainless rigid liner. I plan to adapt the pellet stove to this liner using the duravent adapter.
The stove is located in front of the fireplace, in the center of the room. I don't really have anywhere to go with an OAK except up, or down. Up, would be impossible...
Here is a photo to help out.. Sorry for the hijack, if this needs it's own thread lemme know
I use my "dead blow" hammer. Slightly heavier, and more importantly, MUCH quieter. Does a nice job of getting the ash to let loose.
PoolGuyinCT
Feeling the Heat
Nice signature ken, Sure your not heating your house with radiant cigar heat?
Just put down a fuente anejo, a treat!
Starting a new thread would probably get more eyes on this. You're not dealing with a problem specific to this stove, so many who have the expertise may not be looking in here.
Kinda beyond my comfort zone here, I'm assuming that this whole hearth is not on an exterior wall. Here' a couple of things to think about:
- What's below the stove? Can you go down and then out a side wall? You'd probably need to go with something of a larger diameter if it's goes any distance, but it doesn't need to be vent pipe that's $20 a foot.
- I know you said up is impossible, but is there a specific reason? Is there space between the liner and the chimney that an air intake could be snaked through? Or another unused flue? I know it's probably a pain, but just want to not rule out all the options.
For those of you with the 55-TRPIP. .... do you find that tapping on the heat exchanger pretty much a necessary maintenance procedure? Cuz I sure do! For me its once every 2 weeks. So much so I have removed the fake brick.
Came home after work yesterday to find my burn pot, ash pan and chute too (
) filled with smoldering pellets the ones that were mounding in the burn pot were cherry red.
Shut it down, let it cool, clean out every darn nook and cranny tap (aka bang) on the heat exchanger (the part that surrounds the chute exit hole) and voila! it works perfectly again. Once a month I take off the heat exchanger cleaning plates and vacuum away.
I also find that I need to do it before I need to do it.... if that makes sense.
Came home after work yesterday to find my burn pot, ash pan and chute too (
) filled with smoldering pellets the ones that were mounding in the burn pot were cherry red. Shut it down, let it cool, clean out every darn nook and cranny tap (aka bang) on the heat exchanger (the part that surrounds the chute exit hole) and voila! it works perfectly again. Once a month I take off the heat exchanger cleaning plates and vacuum away.
I also find that I need to do it before I need to do it.... if that makes sense.
I have not had that issue. My cleaning routine at this point is:
I'm also clean out of pellets, so looks like I'm done experimenting for the year.
I do get some buildup of ash in the pot, the daily stirring helps to break it up and eject it, but it still builds up after a while. I don't think I could go too much longer than a week without a shutdown before that would start to be a problem.
I also wonder about running without the firebrick. Isn't that providing some heat protection to the thin steel behind it? I would hate to see you erode the back of the firebox because of that.
- Daily: Stir up the burn pot without shutdown
- Weekly: Shutdown and remove ash, scrape burnpot, remove baffle and clean behind/above it.
- Monthly: Weekly+remove heat exchanger plates and suck out ash
- Bi-Monthly: Monthly+clean vent pipe.
I'm also clean out of pellets, so looks like I'm done experimenting for the year.
I do get some buildup of ash in the pot, the daily stirring helps to break it up and eject it, but it still builds up after a while. I don't think I could go too much longer than a week without a shutdown before that would start to be a problem.
I also wonder about running without the firebrick. Isn't that providing some heat protection to the thin steel behind it? I would hate to see you erode the back of the firebox because of that.
I do about the same give or take but of course i bang on the heat exchanger. I didn't know anyone else stirred up the burn pot with out shutting down. I am waiting for the fireproof gloves from Harbor Frieght because my thick leather ones are hurting after this winter.
I am going to check out/figure out the Spring maintenance thing here shortly.
I am going to check out/figure out the Spring maintenance thing here shortly.
Light in the Dark
Feeling the Heat
It's alittle bit more tempermental than the 25 series i have had but you are rewarded with alot more heat... last year was one of the colder winters i have seen too.
Light in the Dark
Feeling the Heat
In what regard is it more tempermental? It is a stove that I am considering purchasing, so your complete thoughts (good and bad) are definitely appreciated.
