Englander 55 TRP IP-S aka 25 IP-S

[stoveguy2esw]

Filled up my 80 lb hopper and it has been running continuously since Thursday a at 6 pm soo about 2 days plus the few hours left in the hopper. Heat wise it's keeping my house at 66-70 upstair a lttle cooler in rooms over my garage. Downstairs where the stove is its about 70-75. Temps have been 30-50 tops. Running and heating has been awesome a lot better than my 25 pdvc.

The only minor thing that I I am pretty sure I can adjut i is that at 1 it burns a little rich and gets the burn area black soot. Not sure what the settings are but I haven't changed them. Also note worthy is that I am using the home depot specials. I am trying 6 other kinds of varying quality and price.

kool! i figured you'd like it, hey i loved my P-10 right up until i put in my pah and felt heat hitting me from 10 ft away when the blower kicked on the first time. any word from our other ip newby? still waiting with baited breath to see how he's making out

 

[mchasal]

kool! i figured you'd like it, hey i loved my P-10 right up until i put in my pah and felt heat hitting me from 10 ft away when the blower kicked on the first time. any word from our other ip newby? still waiting with baited breath to see how he's making out

Here I am!

Got everything installed today, just finished a little while ago. Had to make some on the fly adjustments of the vent routing due to some more surprises behind the sheet rock, but it's all setup now.
(broken image removed)
Ignore some of the finish work that needs to happen in the back. That's just window dressing

Unfortunately, still not getting ignition. Igniter warms up, pellets feed, combustion blower runs, but no flame and it hits the E2 error code, rightly so.
I did make sure the burn pot was pushed all the way back. Also, after it gave up, I pulled the (full) burn pot out and looked through the igniter hole. Several blackened pellets visible through the hole. So, seems like it's either not getting enough heat, or I have some stubborn pellets.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Here I am!

Got everything installed today, just finished a little while ago. Had to make some on the fly adjustments of the vent routing due to some more surprises behind the sheet rock, but it's all setup now.
(broken image removed)
Ignore some of the finish work that needs to happen in the back. That's just window dressing

Unfortunately, still not getting ignition. Igniter warms up, pellets feed, combustion blower runs, but no flame and it hits the E2 error code, rightly so.
I did make sure the burn pot was pushed all the way back. Also, after it gave up, I pulled the (full) burn pot out and looked through the igniter hole. Several blackened pellets visible through the hole. So, seems like it's either not getting enough heat, or I have some stubborn pellets.

ok, what we need to check is whether the fiberboard is preventing the pot from sliding back far enough to make contact with the igniter sleeve. this is hyper critical for clean starts. if its not bottoming out against the sleeve the heated air is diverted into the surrounding space instead of being forced into the burn pot. open the door, push against the pot towards the back of the stove see if the fiberboard (fake brick) moves and rebounds when you release. if it does this is the issue, two possible ways to fix. adjust the sleeve forward a smidge, or loosen the screw holding the fiberboard and lift it upwards just enough the back of the pot slips under it (i like the first choice better but the second is easier on the fly) you get the end of that igniter sleeve in contact with the back of the pot and it will light anything

 

[kenstogie]

You'll get it sorted out I have no doubt. Install looks good, you'll love how muchheat this throws. It seems CONSIDERABLY more efficient ( heat per pellet )than my olde unit.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

trust me, if the igniter is doing anything at all its fine. its gotta be airflow, in this case "air diversion" the best fix is to move the sleeve forward just a little,

here's the procedure, leave the pot in the stove (stove is cold) loosen the allen head setscrew on the igniter sleeve in the back of the stove (access through the right side door) with the pot in you shove the sleeve forward til it hits the pot, then slip it back just a wee bit to allow the pot to set loose in the cradle and still let the igniter sleeve touch the pot when the pot is slid back.this should have been done when the stove was on the finish line (i sense a note to the section leader of that part of the assembly line in my near future.)

trust me, if this igniter sleeve is flushed to the back of the pot you could cook a hot dog in the pot, but if its gapped away, it just gets warm on the pellets as the air moving around the pot diffuses the heat with sheer air volume.

 

[mchasal]

ok, what we need to check is whether the fiberboard is preventing the pot from sliding back far enough to make contact with the igniter sleeve. this is hyper critical for clean starts. if its not bottoming out against the sleeve the heated air is diverted into the surrounding space instead of being forced into the burn pot. open the door, push against the pot towards the back of the stove see if the fiberboard (fake brick) moves and rebounds when you release. if it does this is the issue, two possible ways to fix. adjust the sleeve forward a smidge, or loosen the screw holding the fiberboard and lift it upwards just enough the back of the pot slips under it (i like the first choice better but the second is easier on the fly) you get the end of that igniter sleeve in contact with the back of the pot and it will light anything

Definitely not the fiberboard, that's well clear. I'll try adjusting the sleeve.

 

[mchasal]

Definitely not the fiberboard, that's well clear. I'll try adjusting the sleeve.

Probably won't be tonight, so don't wait up for results.

Thanks.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Probably won't be tonight, so don't wait up for results.

Thanks.

ok man, just curious how you were getting along, im on your schedule, not mine. just trying to make sure we got ya covered

 

[mchasal]

ok man, just curious how you were getting along, im on your schedule, not mine. just trying to make sure we got ya covered

Before embarking on the surgery, I bent a paperclip to make a feeler gauge to determine if the tube was touching the pot. Slid that through the igniter hole and along the back of the burn pot and pushed the pot back. My feeler could move freely, so the tube was not contacting the burn pot. Looks like you're going to have to send that note.

So off to make the adjustment, and it was not an easy one to make. Can't see that setscrew at all from the right side, even tried with a mirror, and just couldn't get it. I ended up pulling the back partially off (design improvement suggestion #1, make the back cover removable without disconnecting the vent & OAK) then I had to grind down my allen wrench because the arm was just a hair too long to fit in the space available. Finally got the setscrew loose and the tube wouldn't budge. started to remove the whole igniter to see what was up and as soon as I loosened the igniter bracket mounting bolt the tube slid freely. That bracket must just be a little out of square and it binds the tube up when tightened. No problem now that I know.

Made the adjustment as described. The tube ended up about a 1/4" further in than it was, so that was definitely out of wack.

Hit the on button and waited...and waited. Probably shouldn't have stood there and watched it, but after a while, a little smoke, then a little fire, then a lot of fire! So it looks like you nailed what the issue was. Stove is happily cranking out heat now. I even managed to kill the fire by taking too long to refill the hopper, I had only partially filled it so far, and it went back through the startup mode and relit itself.

Oh, and since I made a design improvement suggestion #1, I suppose I need to give a #2: Some lift off hinges like these: (broken link removed to http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/FURNITURE+HINGES/Lift-off+Hinges+-+Loose+Joint+Hinges/Stainless+Steel+Lift+off+Hinges) or just removable pin hinges would be really nice. When I was moving and installing the stove I removed all the doors, mostly just to prevent damage while I was moving it with the tractor (still no forks) but it was very convenient to have everything wide open during the installation. The hinged doors are nice for quick peeks into the innards, but I think any major servicing or cleaning would be a lot easier if the panels also be removed completely. With both these suggestions, it would be easy to gain complete access to all the components. It's only a 12 bolts to remove them now, but I suspect a removable hinge would only be an incremental cost and would be much more friendly.

Thanks for all your help and patience. I'm looking forward to learning how to get the most out of the stove.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

kool beans! glad its working for ya.

on the hinge thing , this is one of the reasons for the origional ones being "hangers" but it wasnt as popular with us as hinges when looked at for ease of access, i am passing your sugestion along to the lab guys for them to digest though

 

[kenstogie]

CONGRATS To Mchasel for getting it going!! It's a great stove.The hinge thing would be cool and I must agree that being able to take off the back cover without disconnecting (doesn't the 25 PDVC do this?) would be good. Maybe 2 piece back.


Another thing that made me scratch my head a little was the door latch. I never have had an issue with it and it surely works but it doesn't seem as "locked in" as the other Englander stoves.

I notice there are holes (see pic below)..... is there a handle I am missing?? It did come with the typical brass springy handle like on many of the other Englanders but not sure how or if that would hook on.
mike/mchasel what are your thoughts on this?

On a side note I won a Hearth.com hat yesterday YEAAAA!

 

[mchasal]

Another thing that made me scratch my head a little was the door latch. I never have had an issue with it and it surely works but it doesn't seem as "locked in" as the other Englander stoves.

I notice there are holes (see pic below)..... is there a handle I am missing?? It did come with the typical brass springy handle like on many of the other Englanders but not sure how or if that would hook on.
mike/mchasel what are your thoughts on this?

There should have been a red handled thing included with your stove. Mine was in the bag with the literature. It's basically a long handled allen wrench with a red plastic screwdriver handle. It inserts into the matching hole on the latch. If it's missing, I'm sure Mike will get one out to you, but you can just use the proper size allen wrench in the meantime. I did not get any brass springy handle with mine, perhaps you got the wrong part?

 

[mchasal]

CONGRATS To Mchasel for getting it going!! It's a great stove.The hinge thing would be cool and I must agree that being able to take off the back cover without disconnecting (doesn't the 25 PDVC do this?) would be good. Maybe 2 piece back.

Yeah that would work, or just slotting the openings all the way to the bottom. I may end up doing that mod myself at some point.

On a side note I won a Hearth.com hat yesterday YEAAAA!

Congrats! It's like my Massey Ferguson hat. It was $20,000, but it came with a free tractor

 

[kenstogie]

Thanks for the quick reply mchasel! No I don't think I got any red handled anything or an allen wrench but I will check the accessory box that I have. I think all I got was this....

 

[kenstogie]

As much as I will like my hat I would trade it for the $20,000 or a tractor. If your interested. LOL.

Anyway that's exactly what I was thinking of doing with the two piece mod thing. File down those burrs!!

 

[mchasal]

Thanks for the quick reply mchasel! No I don't think I got any red handled anything or an allen wrench but I will check the accessory box that I have. I think all I got was this....

Yeah, that's not your huckleberry.

From page 42 of the manual:
(broken image removed)
If you can't find anything like that guy in the middle, get ahold of ESW and I'm sure they'll get one right out to you. Check the bottom of the front door to make sure it's not there. I'm surprised you're able to open the door without it. It's pretty tight and I need to pull up on the handle pretty firmly to pop it. Though I suppose if you're only closing it by hand it will only be so tight.

 

[PoolGuyinCT]

Let it smoke.. Nothing. 601 blue wont negate

 

[kenstogie]

@ mchasal I will, that'd be funny if it was there the entire time.

@PoolGuyinCT Yea I love those 601 blues and they have some kick! the greens were good back in 07 if I recall my years correctly not sure how the recent years have been. The two that have stood out for me are the Tatuaje "Reserva" and the My Father "La Bijou, 1922" Awesome cigars that come with awesome pricetags, LOL

 

[PoolGuyinCT]

Agreed, the greens are still excellent cigars..

Something is going on with 601, partnership dissolved ?.

Been hitting 5 packs like a champ on he monster.. With code grabbing sub 4$ a pop, multiple orders to hit 50$ and get free shipping

 

[kenstogie]

I hadn't heard but could certainly check. That would stink the 601's are great. I usually hit up the bid aka the devil site. You have to be careful not to order to much though. it'll fill up that humidor quick!


Just noticed......That's funny "the art of buying habanos online" LOL

 

[kenstogie]

so my stove was running rich (black soot on the window and inside burn chamber) on 1 with the pellets I am using and I dropped the LFF (low fuel feed?) To 4 from 5 as it was also leaving some unburned/partially burned pellets at the bottom of my burn pot and clogging the air holes.....which made it burn a little richer and clogged more holes etc.

I took out my burn pot and gave it a clean dropped it back in and hit start but it never lit up. I pushed the burn pot back as far as it could go and it did fire up. I guess the point is that position matters or maybe my igniter is a little to far back too. Easy adjustment if I care to do it.
I also put in the brick fire board (?) while I was in there and I didn't think it would matter but it does look nice so I am glad mike sent it , thanks Mike. I cant believe how much heat this thing throws AND how much less in pellets it burns, its pretty awesome.

 

[mchasal]

Did you find the handle or is it MIA?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

its on its way to him

 

[kenstogie]

It was not there, but before I even had a chance to look Mike sent one out to me, which was pretty g.d. cool.

Dropping to 4 from 5 on the LFF cleaned up the burn nicely though it did cool it down a touch too. I may try returning the LFF to 5 and increasing the LBA (low burn air) to 6. My stock settings are 5-5-1.

I would imagine that with each brand of pellets settings may be different, not a lot but a little anyway.

 

[mchasal]

Dropping to 4 from 5 on the LFF cleaned up the burn nicely though it did cool it down a touch too. I may try returning the LFF to 5 and increasing the LBA (low burn air) to 6. My stock settings are 5-5-1.

Hmm, mine are (and Mike confirmed them upthread) 4-4-1