Okay guys I am better now I think that It wasn't working cause it is too warm outside. What do you think was that my issue cause I think my wood is fine. Also, I think the smell is gone but how can I tell the stove got just up to 600!
Englander 30 First Fire Issue
- Thread starter 04HemiRam2500
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Also, guys is it normal for the stove to keep the same temp and the flue temp to keep going down how far down will it go.
eclecticcottage
Minister of Fire
I know you don't want to believe it, but from what you described and personal experiance....I'm betting your wood isn't seasoned well enough. Been there, done that.
One trick if your flue isn't drawing well enough is to use a bit of paper-pop it in, light it and close the door. Sends a bit of heat up the stack and helps establish the draft.
One trick if your flue isn't drawing well enough is to use a bit of paper-pop it in, light it and close the door. Sends a bit of heat up the stack and helps establish the draft.
I see cracks at the end of the wood However you do raise a point why did the fire get going with the 2 by4 and not my wood? If it is my wood will I still be able to heat this year with it should I remove the burn tubes I will use more wood but it will at least heat.
Again though I do not think it is the wood. I think it is the fact it is still 68 outside now. It makes sense to me know that you cant get a good draft if the difference between temperature is low.
Do you think it is the fact that it is warm outside doesn't this affect it or no?
Plus it could have been that I did not get the fire going enough before adding my wood no?
Again though I do not think it is the wood. I think it is the fact it is still 68 outside now. It makes sense to me know that you cant get a good draft if the difference between temperature is low.
Do you think it is the fact that it is warm outside doesn't this affect it or no?
Plus it could have been that I did not get the fire going enough before adding my wood no?
Augie
Feeling the Heat
Yea sounds like your wood is wet, was it dead standing or on the ground? even if dead standing it prob is still wet. Sorry to be the barer of bad news.
600 Stove top should have cured the paint on your stove sufficiently.
You should have two thermometers, on on the stove top one on the flue. And yes When I have the stove dialed in I have temps of 600-700 on the stove top and around 300-400 flue temps.
Since you are new and your wood is questionable I would recommend having your flue cleaned sometime in December before Christmas.
600 Stove top should have cured the paint on your stove sufficiently.
You should have two thermometers, on on the stove top one on the flue. And yes When I have the stove dialed in I have temps of 600-700 on the stove top and around 300-400 flue temps.
Since you are new and your wood is questionable I would recommend having your flue cleaned sometime in December before Christmas.
Augie
Feeling the Heat
Dont remove the burn tubes, that is silly
Try starting the fire with 2x4's like you did but then adding your wood, when the fire burns down a bit is when you add your wood. you will have to keep the primary air open more but you will get the heat out, just using more wood in the process.
Try starting the fire with 2x4's like you did but then adding your wood, when the fire burns down a bit is when you add your wood. you will have to keep the primary air open more but you will get the heat out, just using more wood in the process.
Okay, so if wood is yet I can still get the heat from just need to leave the dampner open and will use more wood?
Also, I still think that since it is warm outside it led to at least part of my problem no? I think this because now looking at the fire all wood is glowing but not on firewood and there is alot of it left? Should this be? I think if it was colder outside, the fire would have went down more and used most of the wood not alot of it left like there is now.
Also, I still think that since it is warm outside it led to at least part of my problem no? I think this because now looking at the fire all wood is glowing but not on firewood and there is alot of it left? Should this be? I think if it was colder outside, the fire would have went down more and used most of the wood not alot of it left like there is now.
BCC_Burner
Feeling the Heat
I think there were multiple factors, including wet wood, mediocre draft(I have the same issue with my 30), inexperienced operator, warm temps. You should buy a moisture meter to find out for sure. I split some rounds last weekend that have been bucked to length for a year, and were cut from a dead standing tree. The wood was cracked, but when I split them, my axe blade would be dripping. Cracks in the end don't mean a whole lot with regards to internal moisture content. The fastest drying woods take 8 or so months from being split to be burnable, but more often it takes 12-18 months after splitting for wood to be in top shape for burning.
I thought people were exaggerating (or simpletons) when they said that there is a learning curve with this stove, or any EPA stove, but there really is. I have been burning in my 30 for coming up on a month, and I feel like I am just starting to figure out how it works and how to run it efficiently given my system. By New Years I think I will have it pretty dialed, but it will take dozens of fires, under different atmospheric conditions, to really get a feel for your particular install.
I usually get about 3 hours of flame off of a 75% or so full load, then occasionally lazy flames and secondaries, but primarily glowing coals. At this point the wood is largely done outgassing, so it is burning cleanly and still producing a lot of heat. Others will chime in, but your situation with flames dying as it moves into the coaling stage sounds normal to me.
I love my 30, but once my budget allows me to have a nice chimney system, I am absolutely going with a cat stove.
I thought people were exaggerating (or simpletons) when they said that there is a learning curve with this stove, or any EPA stove, but there really is. I have been burning in my 30 for coming up on a month, and I feel like I am just starting to figure out how it works and how to run it efficiently given my system. By New Years I think I will have it pretty dialed, but it will take dozens of fires, under different atmospheric conditions, to really get a feel for your particular install.
I usually get about 3 hours of flame off of a 75% or so full load, then occasionally lazy flames and secondaries, but primarily glowing coals. At this point the wood is largely done outgassing, so it is burning cleanly and still producing a lot of heat. Others will chime in, but your situation with flames dying as it moves into the coaling stage sounds normal to me.
I love my 30, but once my budget allows me to have a nice chimney system, I am absolutely going with a cat stove.
You can burn wet wood in a non-cat stove if you must. Split it smaller, stack it looser, avoid the really wet stuff, open the intake more, and expect shorter burn times. You can burn green wood just cut with leaves still on if you have to.
Like right now there are alot of coals but then again I did put in alot of scrap wood someone please tell me it is because it is warm outside not my wood. If my wood is wet how bad will this be to keep it going.
The other thing I just noticed cause I tossed in a small piece is that you need to have the new wood on top of where the flames are to get it going.
eclecticcottage
Minister of Fire
Ok...here's what WE did in years #1 and #2, your mileage may vary and this is just what we did, it's by no means gospel.
We mixed loads of splits and ecobricks (I've heard it suggested to use dimentional lumber cut offs or pallet pieces). We almost never damped down much more than half way because it would kill the fire pretty quick. We always started from a good coal bed or with a lot of good kindling and a firestarter. The trick is keeping the heat in the firebox. Basically, you're seasoning the wood IN the stove and that takes heat and energy to dry it. Make sure you check your flue frequently for buildup and brush it or get it brushed if needed. You'll use more wood and won't get as good of heat, but it's possible. We had no other heat so it wasn't much of an option.
We mixed loads of splits and ecobricks (I've heard it suggested to use dimentional lumber cut offs or pallet pieces). We almost never damped down much more than half way because it would kill the fire pretty quick. We always started from a good coal bed or with a lot of good kindling and a firestarter. The trick is keeping the heat in the firebox. Basically, you're seasoning the wood IN the stove and that takes heat and energy to dry it. Make sure you check your flue frequently for buildup and brush it or get it brushed if needed. You'll use more wood and won't get as good of heat, but it's possible. We had no other heat so it wasn't much of an option.
As Highbeam says, you can burn less than ideal wood in a tube stove. You will need to be mindful of your chimney, though, because you'll probably have more creosote buildup than you would if you were burning dry wood.
Augie
Feeling the Heat
First off slow down, even with perfect wood almost everyone here has a steep learning curve. It is going to be tougher with wet wood, but tough to get used to the stove regardless of how dry your wood is.
Start looking on Craigs list for scrap wood or pallets, break them down and it will help you to get through this year, more work, but you will be fine, many here have gone the pallet route for a couple of years until they had seasoned wood. Take your time, read here, relax and enjoy it
BCC_Burner
Feeling the Heat
This isn't really the kind of stove where you occasionally toss in a piece or two. Load it, let it catch, damper it down, let it burn until you have nothing but coals, then reload. If your draft is weak and your wood is wet then it will take awhile for wood you add to catch. I usually run my stove with the primary air wide open for 15-20 minutes after a reload before I have enough flame to start shutting the damper down.
eclecticcottage
Minister of Fire
They can contibute, that's for sure. Your best test will be to let this load completely burn down and go cold then try again on a cooler day.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
You will find a huge difference in how your stove works at 68* vs 30*! Heck, I can tell a difference in draft between 30* and 40*! Also, when you reload on hot coals, the fire will totally take off vs a cold start. FYI, it is not recommended to reload on hot coals if your stove top temp is over 250-300*, you risk a almost uncontrollable high temp stove doing that, especially with dry wood on a cold day!
Don't feel bad, getting a fire going on a warm day in a cold stove can be pretty difficult for even the most experienced burner. The best way I have found is to start with a pile of really dry twigs from the yard over top some paper, then when that is going good, add some small kindling, after that is good n hot, add some small splits, once that is burnt to coals you can load in the big stuff.
Don't feel bad, getting a fire going on a warm day in a cold stove can be pretty difficult for even the most experienced burner. The best way I have found is to start with a pile of really dry twigs from the yard over top some paper, then when that is going good, add some small kindling, after that is good n hot, add some small splits, once that is burnt to coals you can load in the big stuff.
Augie
Feeling the Heat
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
You've never had a stove go "nuclear" on you after putting a big load of dry wood in a hot stove on a cold day?
Thanks brenndatomu good to hear from you again. Sunday it is suppose to be cold a low of 29 so that will be a good night it is crazy that for me it is November tomorrow and it is warm enough to not need heat in the house.
Again, I am thinking draft issues due to the warmth I did not think it through when I started today. Here is my other question. I am not going to use it till sunday I will remove the ashes once it cools or should I? also, what about the coals since they will be cold? Should I remove them too or keep them in there?
Again, I am thinking draft issues due to the warmth I did not think it through when I started today. Here is my other question. I am not going to use it till sunday I will remove the ashes once it cools or should I? also, what about the coals since they will be cold? Should I remove them too or keep them in there?
Augie
Feeling the Heat
I have, but your comment was
When My stove is 350 and I have some room I will add two big pieces, as big as I can fit, think crotches, and they will take off quickly, but because they dont have a ton of surface area they wont off gas as quickly as a load of small splits.
So no I disagree, if you load like I recommend, loading when the stove temp is 300+, shouldn't cause you any issues
BCC_Burner
Feeling the Heat
Leave the ashes in the firebox. You will get a better coal bed established if there is a nice insulating blanket of ash for them to nestle down into.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yeah, I suppose those temps are on the low side of the safe range, probably should have said more like over 350-400*
And you are right, a couple big chunks would help keep the lid on things compared to loading in regular splits.
And you are right, a couple big chunks would help keep the lid on things compared to loading in regular splits.
- Status
Similar threads
