Englander 17-VL
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I would recommend compressed wood logs instead of bundled wood. The bundled wood generally has been heated in a kiln to kill any bugs but has not necessarily been kiln dried. I have tested some of that at 23% and 24% before. Some of it is actually kiln dried but you cant count on it. The compressed wood logs are going to be dry or they will be all swelled up
Because the last time i saw them at a store it was $30 and that is the value i put out there if you can find a good one at $15 dollars good for you.
Their insert is a pacific energy stove
ok good when you get it split a piece and take a reading on that fresh face. If it is under 20% then we know it is probably either lack of draft due to lack of temperature differential of due to house depressurization issues. Also the wood should be close to room temp when you test it if it is to cold it can give you a false reading as well
OK, so I got the meter and took some readings. The kindling that wouldn't stay lit yesterday read 11%. End grain of the mystery species I'm using also read 11%. The freshly split face reads 15%. It's extremely hard to push the pins into the wood. BTW, this meter has a setting for mortar, concrete or plaster. How can they possibly expect you to push the pins into these?
I basically have 2 questions at this point:
1. Is it reasonable or unreasonable for me to expect to achieve a smokeless fire in under 2 minutes like in that video I linked to?
2. Is there a video where I could watch an expert load and start the 17-VL in the proper manner? Something showing the size of the kindling and the arrangement of the paper and kindling? I feel certain my technique is what's holding me back the most.
I basically have 2 questions at this point:
1. Is it reasonable or unreasonable for me to expect to achieve a smokeless fire in under 2 minutes like in that video I linked to?
2. Is there a video where I could watch an expert load and start the 17-VL in the proper manner? Something showing the size of the kindling and the arrangement of the paper and kindling? I feel certain my technique is what's holding me back the most.
It is unreasonable to expect a smokeless fire in 2 minutes .... I'm happy with 15 - 30 minutes, unless I'm reloading on a smoking hot coal bed <joke, which you will get later in the process 
>
I got question, where is your air control set when you start this fire ... open or closed?
>I got question, where is your air control set when you start this fire ... open or closed?
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Why is this unreasonable for the 17-VL but not for the Renaissance Rumford?
Are you saying the moisture meter is wrong?
Nope. Think your expectations are to unrealistic.
It can take me 1/2 an hour to an hour to get a good coal bed going from a cold start.
Did ya hit 7 11 for some bundled fire wood?
It can take me 1/2 an hour to an hour to get a good coal bed going from a cold start.
Did ya hit 7 11 for some bundled fire wood?
Rebelduckman
Minister of Fire
I had the 17-vl before I got the 13nc I have now. I never had a problem getting the stove going and up to temp in less than 30 min. That little stove packed a punch it just didn't burn long enough for my needs. Something just don't sound right about this
There is an exhaust fan above their chimney sucking the smoke out and probably greatly increasing the draft. I have never seen a fire take off that quick with natural draft. If that 15% reading is correct that means it is probably a draft issue what is the outside temp?
All I really expect is that I can actually light a fire without it going out on me. Is 6 full sheets of newspaper not enough?
I would hate to do that. It would mean that all my work to cut, split, stack and season was worthless.
Mid 50's yesterday.
That is probably your main problem right there with tems that high you are going to have trouble.
Didnt you say you just split it yesterday?
You don't need or want a grate for this stove. There is an easier, more effective way to start the fire. Take two ~2" short splits (about 10-12" long) and place them N/S about 4" apart centered on the middle of the stove. Put 3 newspaper balls in between or a chunk of firestarter. Then place more 2-3" pieces of wood E/W oriented on top of those two splits leaving some air gap betwen them. Branch material works great as a source of those short sleepers, but so does a 2x4 scrap split in half. Loading this way will allow air from the boost manifold to get under the bed of wood. This will greatly improve quick lighting.
Or try top down lighting. Here is a video showing how- Go to the Efficient Wood Stove Operation video on this page:
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html
Or try top down lighting. Here is a video showing how- Go to the Efficient Wood Stove Operation video on this page:
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html
This is a straight-up interior 2 story chimney, correct?
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