engalnder 25-PDV - recesitation question?

[DexterDay]

Search "Englander Bottom 3 Buttons" or "Englander Mode".

LOTS of results... Numerous threads under that search that explain the mode and also how to reset the board and run diagnostics. Just takes a simple search. More info here on Englander pellet stoves, than any other (Thanks Mike).

 

[Don2222]

BTW, you guys rock, i didnt get to help at all with this OP's issues , as i read down either the Op or the rest of you guys systematically fixed everything.

Hi Mike

From > http://www.doityourself.com/forum/f...638-englander-pellet-stove-auger-motor-2.html
Is this statement fact or fiction? Did your company change the augers rotation?
25-PDV Both AUger's died

Just sent the company an e-mail asking for replacement auger. I found over 100 complaints about the original installed augers on these models. These augers should be recalled. Hopefully the company will cover the replacements. I clean my stove daily, and this augers starting having issues after only 2 years. This year both augers died at the same time. I was reading online that the original augers installed rotated clockwise but the company modified these augers and that is were most repairmen believe the failures started. Whatever the case I have my fingers crossed.​

 

[Don2222]

start here- https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-25-pdvc-settings.76453/#post-76453

Thanks Smoke Show
I will try this and see what it is. Do you know what the 25-PDV should be?

~Turn off stove, allow to cool
~Unplug it for a few
~Plug back in
~Immediately press and hold the up and down arrows for the blower, then release.

I think this is correct.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Ok, I just tried that.

The program is d

Is that what the 25-PDV should be?

 

[smoke show]

If I were you, I'd call or email Englander that way you know for sure you got the correct answer.
Although I've done that in the past and got conflicting answers.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I can't answer for Mike but all c-frame auger motors are reversible.

I would not think that any company would buy a batch of motors only to have to pay someone on staff to flip the coils on all of them. I makes no sense at all guvner.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Hi Mike

From > http://www.doityourself.com/forum/f...638-englander-pellet-stove-auger-motor-2.html
Is this statement fact or fiction? Did your company change the augers rotation?
25-PDV Both AUger's died

Just sent the company an e-mail asking for replacement auger. I found over 100 complaints about the original installed augers on these models. These augers should be recalled. Hopefully the company will cover the replacements. I clean my stove daily, and this augers starting having issues after only 2 years. This year both augers died at the same time. I was reading online that the original augers installed rotated clockwise but the company modified these augers and that is were most repairmen believe the failures started. Whatever the case I have my fingers crossed.​

fiction, the 2 auger stoves have since inception in 1990 have always rotated the same way, the only augers we have which rotate the other way are the single auger stoves

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Hello

Ok, I just tried that.

The program is d

Is that what the 25-PDV should be?

depends on the mfg date. is it posted yet?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

If I were you, I'd call or email Englander that way you know for sure you got the correct answer.
Although I've done that in the past and got conflicting answers.

best thing is to smply ask me smoke, i know every combination we have ever run by model and mfg date. i can rattle them off at will

 

[smoke show]

best thing is to smply ask me smoke, i know every combination we have ever run by model and mfg date. i can rattle them off at will

Yes, I did. Got the answer I needed. Thank you.

 

[Don2222]

depends on the mfg date. is it posted yet?

The MFD is 03/2005 for my 25-PDV

 

[stoveguy2esw]

The MFD is 03/2005 for my 25-PDV

i clicked te "like button" first meant to reply, anyway, the stove is fine in "d" mode, the prestets for that date code are 5-9-1 this is how it left the factory

 

[DexterDay]

I vote for an "Englander Sticky".

There are so many stoves out there. Along with So many combination of Programs and Bottom 3 button settings.

Having a sticky that has each model, by year, with there corresponding program (C, D, Etc) along with the Factory bottom 3 #'s (6-4-1).

So many users buy a used stove and have NO Idea abiut these things. May never happen. But seems like a good idea. Seeing how Harman, Quad, Enviro, Etc dont use any of these features and are a little easy to figure if buying used (set heat level, fan, damper, etc and your good to go) An Englander is very easy to understand. But 1st you must learn how to understand them!! My 2 pennies.

 

[Don2222]

sounds like a drop chute jam, working the motor will most times clear this up , if not pull the LOWER auger to gain access to the chute work in and up at about a 45 degree angle to insert a screwdriver or similar up the drop chute to dislodge any long pelets which may have "stovepiped' in the chute

as for overfire the stove will drop an E-3 if the board is set in A mode, it will simply stop the top auger in c or d mode until the stove cools past the high limit. another thing to check is the door ajar vac switch port in the firebox area. if the port gets occluded with ash you could drop the switch when the stove heats up. this will not result in an error message either

Hi Mike

I found the drop chute drop problem!
I put it in a separate thread
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-25-pdv-drop-chute-jam.85348/

 

[Don2222]

i clicked te "like button" first meant to reply, anyway, the stove is fine in "d" mode, the prestets for that date code are 5-9-1 this is how it left the factory

Thanks Mike
I really appreciate your great info!

 

[Don2222]

i clicked te "like button" first meant to reply, anyway, the stove is fine in "d" mode, the prestets for that date code are 5-9-1 this is how it left the factory

Hi Mike

I am really beginning to like these stoves! Great heat!

One question?
Is there anyway to remotely start these stoves? Even if I have a toggle switch and a 2 conductor wire. Can I wire it into the On/Off touch switch somehow?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

You might need a little electronic circuit in there Don if the switch on the stove is a press on press off momentary contact kind.

 

[smoke show]

I vote for an "Englander Sticky".

There are so many stoves out there. Along with So many combination of Programs and Bottom 3 button settings.

Having a sticky that has each model, by year, with there corresponding program (C, D, Etc) along with the Factory bottom 3 #'s (6-4-1).

So many users buy a used stove and have NO Idea abiut these things. May never happen. But seems like a good idea. Seeing how Harman, Quad, Enviro, Etc dont use any of these features and are a little easy to figure if buying used (set heat level, fan, damper, etc and your good to go) An Englander is very easy to understand. But 1st you must learn how to understand them!! My 2 pennies.

x2! ! ! ! !

 

[Don2222]

You might need a little electronic circuit in there Don if the switch on the stove is a press on press off momentary contact kind.

Yes, Smokey you are correct.
Instead of a toggle I can get a Mometary push switch from Radio Shack. The problem is attaching it to the stove's digital control board. If the only way to do that is to solder the leads to the circuit board that could get messy.

I was hoping Mike Holton would have a better answer.

 

[Don2222]

You might need a little electronic circuit in there Don if the switch on the stove is a press on press off momentary contact kind.

Hi Smokey
I also tried to see if it did have the built-in On/Off T-Stat function in the control panel. Unfortunately it is only on the newer control panels that go into the 10-CPM. In fact the 10-CPM defaults to On/Off and you have to change it to hi/lo. The 10-CPM does use the same J-18 pins as all the other control panels.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Hi Mike

I am really beginning to like these stoves! Great heat!

One question?
Is there anyway to remotely start these stoves? Even if I have a toggle switch and a 2 conductor wire. Can I wire it into the On/Off touch switch somehow?

the problem with "on/off" with that stove is that it was designed as a manual start and teh auto start was later added to the existing design. the igniter port is not "self cleaning" and ash can get pushed into the hole if the pot is not cleared prior to starting. we played with the on off setup when we first put in the igniter but couldnt get it to work consistantly enough to offer it with the stove, it lights up a few times with a dirty pot but eventually it balk starts. as for a 'remote' start like a button in the house that would start it out in an outbuilding like a shop, would probably have to be a soft solenoid mounted where it would physically push the button. building it right into the control board would be pretty hard to do unless you were in the business of doing that sort of stuff to begin with (i dont know how to do it personally) factor in also that the pot needs to be cleared before startups to prevent balk starts anyway.

it could be done with a thermostat in our top feed units but that design just isnt gonna give a simple solution. as for the physical "touch switch mentioned in a previous post, i would shunt power off the cord or a different power source , do not solder it to the hot on the board, too risky when another option is safer to the board

 

[Don2222]

the problem with "on/off" with that stove is that it was designed as a manual start and teh auto start was later added to the existing design. the igniter port is not "self cleaning" and ash can get pushed into the hole if the pot is not cleared prior to starting. we played with the on off setup when we first put in the igniter but couldnt get it to work consistantly enough to offer it with the stove, it lights up a few times with a dirty pot but eventually it balk starts. as for a 'remote' start like a button in the house that would start it out in an outbuilding like a shop, would probably have to be a soft solenoid mounted where it would physically push the button. building it right into the control board would be pretty hard to do unless you were in the business of doing that sort of stuff to begin with (i dont know how to do it personally) factor in also that the pot needs to be cleared before startups to prevent balk starts anyway.

it could be done with a thermostat in our top feed units but that design just isnt gonna give a simple solution. as for the physical "touch switch mentioned in a previous post, i would shunt power off the cord or a different power source , do not solder it to the hot on the board, too risky when another option is safer to the board

Hi Mike
I do understand about the ash buildup in the corner above the ignitor. That would not be a problem for me as long as I could start it once a day from the house.
There is a possible way of doing this.

If I changed the control board in the 25-PDV to a newer control board used in the 10-CMP, then connect the toggle switch to J18 in place of the jumper. The 10-CPM has the Auto On/Off as default when you remove the jumper. So a toggle switch would become the manual on-off !

So my question is:
Will the 10-CPM control board fit and connect to all the standard components in the 25-PDV?

 

[DexterDay]

I dont know if it would work. Nor do I have any comments on that. So this is purely hypothetical.

If you could swap the board. It has an On/Off function. So why would you need the toggle switch?? Makes no sense...

I dont see it as a good idea. The next owner may not use it as you will and will expect it to start. Just something else to go wrong..

 

[Don2222]

I dont know if it would work. Nor do I have any comments on that. So this is purely hypothetical.

If you could swap the board. It has an On/Off function. So why would you need the toggle switch?? Makes no sense...

I dont see it as a good idea. The next owner may not use it as you will and will expect it to start. Just something else to go wrong..

Hi Dexter

First of all, the control board buttons look the same so for the next owner I could just put the jumper back on.

The reason for the wire and the toggle is for the remote start. I have a toggle switch in the house. So if the 2 wires in the shed were connected to J18 on the board, closing the switch would turn the stove on when the board was programmed for Auto on/off.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

Hi Mike
I do understand about the ash buildup in the corner above the ignitor. That would not be a problem for me as long as I could start it once a day from the house.
There is a possible way of doing this.

If I changed the control board in the 25-PDV to a newer control board used in the 10-CMP, then connect the toggle switch to J18 in place of the jumper. The 10-CPM has the Auto On/Off as default when you remove the jumper. So a toggle switch would become the manual on-off !

So my question is:
Will the 10-CPM control board fit and connect to all the standard components in the 25-PDV?

no CPM board will not run that stove. we use the same layout actually the board is generic to all of our stoves , its the PROM chip which determines what happens on each circuit