EKO 40 is here...but I am not sure....

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trumpeterb

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 15, 2009
110
Western PA
My new Eko 40 arrived in it's new home today, and is awaiting installation. I am not sure, believe it or not, that I was sent the correct stove...maybe someone could help.
This boiler has the control panel on the top upper right side....not on the top in the middle as I have seen in pictures. It also has the lever on the side which cleans the heat
exchange tubes instead of the brush tool that I have seen. This one, I am thinking, may be the "super" version of the Eko 40, but I am not positive. Does anyone know? If it is a Super, is there anything horribly different between them and the non-super versions? Should I try and return it....AHGH!!!!
 
I have the super model, the only difference I know of is the cleaning lever you mentioned. The super is supposed to be better than the regular because you can clean the tubes so easily.
 
All of the EKO's sold in the US in the past two years (or so) have been EKO "Supers". Do a search here of "new EKO" or something like that and you'll see the new body style they released late last year/early this year. I'm betting you have the proper boiler....post a picture if you're not sure and we'll put your mind at ease.
 
Also you can just check the boiler plate on the back side.
 
I was just on connecticut gren heats website and they have a very different looking "red" eko 40. Did you buy from them?
 
You have the new style boiler if it's grey (not green) and has square sheet metal corners (not 45'd).
 
That's it!!! That's the one I have...I guess it IS the super version...thanks a ton for all of your input and help. I feel much better now knowing that I have the correct boiler.
 
The super also has the overheat protection coil (those 1/2-inch threaded pipes poking out from each side which very few people use). I don't believe the standard EKOs have that, either.

IMO, the self-cleaning turbulators on the Super are a HUGE upgrade.
 
Eric Johnson said:
The super also has the overheat protection coil (those 1/2-inch threaded pipes poking out from each side which very few people use). I don't believe the standard EKOs have that, either.

IMO, the self-cleaning turbulators on the Super are a HUGE upgrade.
Your right the super does have the cooling coil as well. I thought about using my cooling coil and did a test to see how much heat it can remove, the test was to see if I could use it as a DHW coil. It really didn't pull much heat from the boiler, I was seeing about a 1 degree rise at 7 gallons a minute. Since I have a well the cooling coil wouldn't do much for me, if I lose electric I lose water flow
 
That's a steel coil, so you might have a corrosion problem over time if you ran oxygenated water through it. OTOH, some people do, and I've never heard of them having a problem.
 
Eric Johnson said:
That's a steel coil, so you might have a corrosion problem over time if you ran oxygenated water through it. OTOH, some people do, and I've never heard of them having a problem.
I doubt there was a corrosion problem, I did this on my second burn so the boiler had very little running time. I don't know how big the coil is, I just don't think it is meant to remove a lot of heat.
 
I'm sure any corrosion problem would develop over a matter of years of continuous use, not days, weeks or months.
 
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
The coil is welded in place. If the coil failed inside the boiler it wouldn't be a problem, just cap the threaded ends. I do agree that it is a shame to not be able to use it for anything.
 
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
The coil is welded in place. If the coil failed inside the boiler it wouldn't be a problem, just cap the threaded ends. I do agree that it is a shame to not be able to use it for anything.

Just in the interest of trying to come up with some possible use for it, perhaps if you had a second fairly low demand heating circuit that you wanted to keep isolated from the main water supply for some reason? I.e. if you had an intermittent use heater in the garage or on a porch that you were running w/ glycol, and the rest of the system was running on plain water... Don't know if you'd get enough heat out of it at 2-3gpm to be worth while or not, but might be a possibility.

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
The coil is welded in place. If the coil failed inside the boiler it wouldn't be a problem, just cap the threaded ends. I do agree that it is a shame to not be able to use it for anything.

Just in the interest of trying to come up with some possible use for it, perhaps if you had a second fairly low demand heating circuit that you wanted to keep isolated from the main water supply for some reason? I.e. if you had an intermittent use heater in the garage or on a porch that you were running w/ glycol, and the rest of the system was running on plain water... Don't know if you'd get enough heat out of it at 2-3gpm to be worth while or not, but might be a possibility.

Gooserider
Actually you have me thinking now. Maybe I could be used for a hot tub. I was planning on buying one so when I do I could try that. I understand they don't use a tremendous amount of heat?
Sorry for the change in topic. I noticed most posts get their topic changed within a page or two.
 
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
The coil is welded in place. If the coil failed inside the boiler it wouldn't be a problem, just cap the threaded ends. I do agree that it is a shame to not be able to use it for anything.

Just in the interest of trying to come up with some possible use for it, perhaps if you had a second fairly low demand heating circuit that you wanted to keep isolated from the main water supply for some reason? I.e. if you had an intermittent use heater in the garage or on a porch that you were running w/ glycol, and the rest of the system was running on plain water... Don't know if you'd get enough heat out of it at 2-3gpm to be worth while or not, but might be a possibility.

Gooserider
Actually you have me thinking now. Maybe I could be used for a hot tub. I was planning on buying one so when I do I could try that. I understand they don't use a tremendous amount of heat?
Sorry for the change in topic. I noticed most posts get their topic changed within a page or two.

DON'T use it for your hot tub as the hot tub water has a lot of o2 in the water and I think you would have problems. Thats why they don't use any steel fittings in a hot tub.
leaddog
 
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
clarkharms said:
Gooserider said:
Interesting to see the comments on that coil, as I had been wondering about the idea of using it for DHW... Seems sort of a waste to have such a coil in place and not use it for anything, but if using it might cause problems it probably wouldn't be worth it... Is it something that could be replaced w/ a copper or Stainless coil to give a DHW coil, or is it permanently welded in?

By the same token, what happens if that coil does fail, is it a "fatal" failure, or would it be repairable?

Gooserider
The coil is welded in place. If the coil failed inside the boiler it wouldn't be a problem, just cap the threaded ends. I do agree that it is a shame to not be able to use it for anything.

Just in the interest of trying to come up with some possible use for it, perhaps if you had a second fairly low demand heating circuit that you wanted to keep isolated from the main water supply for some reason? I.e. if you had an intermittent use heater in the garage or on a porch that you were running w/ glycol, and the rest of the system was running on plain water... Don't know if you'd get enough heat out of it at 2-3gpm to be worth while or not, but might be a possibility.

Gooserider
Actually you have me thinking now. Maybe I could be used for a hot tub. I was planning on buying one so when I do I could try that. I understand they don't use a tremendous amount of heat?
Sorry for the change in topic. I noticed most posts get their topic changed within a page or two.

I would tend to say that a hot tub would be a VERY bad idea as an app for that coil... According to an earlier post, the coil is made from steel, which does not like oxygenated water. Thanks to the blowers, a hot tub is probably the ultimate in oxygenated water, so that would be about as bad as it can get... I was suggesting a heating circuit specifically for that reason, as a heating circuit tends to be rapidly deoxygenated and OK for steel. Looking at the European Eko website and manual, it looks like the way the coil is used in Europe is to have one side hooked up to a cold water source and the other to a drain - the water source only turns on in an emergency overheat condition. Hopefully this would only happen a couple times over the life of the boiler (if that) so the coil would be dry most of the time, and not get any serious issues with the occasional oxygenated water exposure.

Gooserider
 
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