Econoburn 150 Nozzle replacement

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You would definitely need a long chisel because there is no way both my shoulders are fitting in the top burn chamber. once the nozzle and refractory were in place I would pull the tape off tubes and light fire. The heat will remove the plastic tubes in short order. do you have phone number to call for nozzle? I also need the refractory for lower chamber. It just broke in 2 yesterday while cleaning out ashes. Good timing for refractories I guess.
 
You would definitely need a long chisel because there is no way both my shoulders are fitting in the top burn chamber. once the nozzle and refractory were in place I would pull the tape off tubes and light fire. The heat will remove the plastic tubes in short order. do you have phone number to call for nozzle? I also need the refractory for lower chamber. It just broke in 2 yesterday while cleaning out ashes. Good timing for refractories I guess.

Yeah, I guess leaving the tubes in is what I'll have to do.
I called Dale - 716 792-2095 - and I had the nozzle in 2 days.
 
When I got my boiler I could see the plastic tubes in the air holes. There were no instructions on removing them. They burned away in short order.

gg
 
Hi All
So i chiseled out my old nozzle.Tried a hammer and chisel,very awkward working through the top door.More so on mine because i have a smoke flap.After hitting my hand instead of the chisel a couple of times,and lack of progress i had a brainwave.
I went to my shop and got my Snapon air chisel.Using it very carefully i was able to remove the nozzle in very short and painless process.
COMPLETE DISCLAIMER.......if you aren't familiar to using an air chisel find someone that is or be very careful.
Then it turned out that i was sent the wrong nozzle.Talked to Dale at Econoburn and he confirmed it was the wrong nozzle,and said the correct one would be on it's way that day.
Awesome customer service at Econoburn,any problems or questions are dealt with in a timely manor.
Thomas
 
few years ago noted wear around top of nozzle -
I used 1/4" plate steel - cut out center slot - to fit flat on bottom of upper chamber ~8 inches wide - then positioned same length steel plate along sides to angle in toward the center slot ~12 inches high (had to cut notches where air comes into upper chamber) - works great, I think it protects the nozzle.
No ash build up along the side edges.
Have not had trouble with steel warping from the heat.

Have new nozzle on the way -
 
This season I cut four plates from a 5/8" thick fireplace hearth refractory plate from the local stove/fireplace shop. Two side plates the whole length of the nozzle and small plates the width of the nozzle opening for the ends. I think once the side plates get beveled I may try to flip them. We'll see.

Working great. Dusty but easy to cut and enough scrap material for 2 seasons. I posted pics in a another thread about guards. Much better than my steel guard of last year. Cheers.
 
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