Dutchwest XL 2462 Rebuild

[Zkx14]

I have been referring to Zkx14's thread on rebuilding the Dutchwest XL. The single bolt that goes through (holds on?) the cover over the stainless air distributer (cover that leads to the upper baffle) broke off when I tried to remove it. I was able to get the four bolts out that hold on the upper baffle and am ready to replace the baffle and distributor. The cover has remained in place and seems solid, even though that single bolt through it has broken off. Does anything hold the cover up there beside the bolt? Based on your experience do you think the cover will stay up if I bolt on the new baffle and cement in the new distributor? Thanks very much.

That channel is cemented in place to both the top and side as well as sealing around the neck of the distributer. If the cement cracks and leaks from the fire box, the catalytic burner is not going to work right if at all. I don't think it would stop you from using the stove. Would just have to close the air inlet screw so smoke doesn't go out till you could fix it. If that happens you will need to take it off and remove all the old cement and extract the broken bolt so a new bolt can be put in to hold with fresh cement. Probably a do it now or do it later situation...but if it doesn't get hit by a log or overfired, the cement could continue to hold it.

 

[BobSWCO]

Hi, just received notification of your post... I'm not sure this would matter either way. I think it is really just a deflector to protect the main body of the stove especially if overfired. Apparently it did its job. I would just put the replacement in if it was me,
[/QUOTE]
OK, thanks...that is what I will do.

 

[BobSWCO]

That channel is cemented in place to both the top and side as well as sealing around the neck of the distributer. If the cement cracks and leaks from the fire box, the catalytic burner is not going to work right if at all. I don't think it would stop you from using the stove. Would just have to close the air inlet screw so smoke doesn't go out till you could fix it. If that happens you will need to take it off and remove all the old cement and extract the broken bolt so a new bolt can be put in to hold with fresh cement. Probably a do it now or do it later situation...but if it doesn't get hit by a log or overfired, the cement could continue to hold it.

Hello Zkx14 (or any others who have rebuilt a Dutchwest 2462 XL),

Thanks for your help. I am now trying to remove the front/sides/back to get the inner top out to try to remove the broken bolt that goes through the cover for the air distributor. I am following your assembly thread in reverse.

I am well along, but now I cannot tell if the four bolts located inside the top corners are all that hold the front/sides/back on to each other and if they just sit-lock into the base. Are they any other bolts at the base or elsewhere (besides at the top inside corners) that must be removed? All I see down low are the bolts that hold the legs on. Do I need to remove the right side inner cover? It is solid so I have not removed it. I did remove the inner back because it needs replacement.

I have chiseled out the cement along the edges of the inside top, but am afraid to try to start tapping to get the front off until I know for certain I have all the bolts removed. The expanded diagram in the owners manual does not tell me much. I would appreciate guidance from someone with experience on how this comes apart. Thanks again for your help

 

[Zkx14]

Hello Zkx14 (or any others who have rebuilt a Dutchwest 2462 XL),

Thanks for your help. I am now trying to remove the front/sides/back to get the inner top out to try to remove the broken bolt that goes through the cover for the air distributor. I am following your assembly thread in reverse.

I am well along, but now I cannot tell if the four bolts located inside the top corners are all that hold the front/sides/back on to each other and if they just sit-lock into the base. Are they any other bolts at the base or elsewhere (besides at the top inside corners) that must be removed? All I see down low are the bolts that hold the legs on. Do I need to remove the right side inner cover? It is solid so I have not removed it. I did remove the inner back because it needs replacement.

I have chiseled out the cement along the edges of the inside top, but am afraid to try to start tapping to get the front off until I know for certain I have all the bolts removed. The expanded diagram in the owners manual does not tell me much. I would appreciate guidance from someone with experience on how this comes apart. Thanks again for your help

I can't look till tomorrow morning, but that sounds right. There are very few bolts holding it together. I seem to recall some in the back that did nothing. I believe they are for an optional heat shield. From what I remember, I don't think the right side plate will matter.

 

[BobSWCO]

I can't look till tomorrow morning, but that sounds right. There are very few bolts holding it together. I seem to recall some in the back that did nothing. I believe they are for an optional heat shield. From what I remember, I don't think the right side plate will matter.

Anytime you have a chance to check about the bolts and then let me know I would really appreciate it.

If you recall, is the correct disassembly order to remove: 1.) the front (exterior top, doors, etc. are already off); 2.) the sides; 3.) then the back? I am assuming this because it appears you reinstalled the back first, then the sides and the front last. Again, thanks a lot for your help.

 

[Zkx14]

Anytime you have a chance to check about the bolts and then let me know I would really appreciate it.

If you recall, is the correct disassembly order to remove: 1.) the front (exterior top, doors, etc. are already off); 2.) the sides; 3.) then the back? I am assuming this because it appears you reinstalled the back first, then the sides and the front last. Again, thanks a lot for your help.

As for order. Try to go exactly opposite of how I assembled it. Front, right side. top, Then the other side and back. I thought you would be able to get the air channel off and extract the broken bolt without taking all apart. If not, then you are on the right track taking it all apart.
There are 2 more bolts in the base. They hold the inner bottom to the base, forming the space the ash pan goes in. This can probably stay together If the cement isn’t cracked.

 

[Zkx14]

Just looking at my pics and saw another bolt spot. Upper corners inside the front of the fire box. I don't think mine ever had bolts in them. I can feel a slight depression with a punch, but I don't think it was ever drilled and tapped. I will be doing fall cleanup on this thing in next week or so will get another look at them. But the metal is shaped/flanged to hold a bolt, so check it....
Also, probably obvious, but be real careful. Especially as you get to taking the inner top loose. The cement on mine didn’t loosen evenly. Some spots wanted to hang on. So your fighting that while trying to undo a house of cards. VERY heavy cards...LOL

 

[begreen]

Also, probably obvious, but be real careful. Especially as you get to taking the inner top loose. The cement on mine didn’t loosen evenly. Some spots wanted to hang on. So your fighting that while trying to undo a house of cards. VERY heavy cards...LOL

A ratchet strap around the stove body is a good safety here. It also works well as a third hand when reassembling.

 

[BobSWCO]

Just looking at my pics and saw another bolt spot. Upper corners inside the front of the fire box. I don't think mine ever had bolts in them. I can feel a slight depression with a punch, but I don't think it was ever drilled and tapped. I will be doing fall cleanup on this thing in next week or so will get another look at them. But the metal is shaped/flanged to hold a bolt, so check it....
Also, probably obvious, but be real careful. Especially as you get to taking the inner top loose. The cement on mine didn’t loosen evenly. Some spots wanted to hang on. So your fighting that while trying to undo a house of cards. VERY heavy cards...LOL

Thanks Zkx14, I appreciate you help. I thoroughly cleaned the cement out the upper joints and removed the right side and then the inner top, etc., without damaging anything. I am working on removing the old cement and soot from all the joints on the upper parts (front, sides, backs).

It sounds like you used the caulking tube size Rutland stove cement product. Do you recall if it took one or two tubes to complete the rebuild? I will not be disturbing anything below the floor of the firebox/inner base, just reassembling the front, sides, backs, inner top and gaskets on the three doors, flue adapter and bypass damper. I live in a rural area and do not want to run out of cement once I get started with the final iron-on-iron reassembly.

For anyone else with this stove following along, note that you do need to lean the top of the outermost back piece away from the stove to release the sides. It is probably obvious to most, but I failed to realize this at first.

 

[Zkx14]

Thanks Zkx14, I appreciate you help. I thoroughly cleaned the cement out the upper joints and removed the right side and then the inner top, etc., without damaging anything. I am working on removing the old cement and soot from all the joints on the upper parts (front, sides, backs).

It sounds like you used the caulking tube size Rutland stove cement product. Do you recall if it took one or two tubes to complete the rebuild? I will not be disturbing anything below the floor of the firebox/inner base, just reassembling the front, sides, backs, inner top and gaskets on the three doors, flue adapter and bypass damper. I live in a rural area and do not want to run out of cement once I get started with the final iron-on-iron reassembly.

For anyone else with this stove following along, note that you do need to lean the top of the outermost back piece away from the stove to release the sides. It is probably obvious to most, but I failed to realize this at first.

I really don’t recall, but I see 2 tubes in the first pic. Definitely better to get too much and have to take one back. If you run out, you’re starting over...

 

[Drew777]

Now cement the right side and place it. A clamp across the top will hold everything together (not pictured). I decided to cement the air gap in the back corner. (questioned this on my first thread posted). The more I look into it I am nearly certain it serves no purpose. They just wanted to use the old style casting.
View attachment 170750

Hey Zkx, I'm doing a full rebuild on a 2460 and came across your thread. This airgap I went back to your first post on here to see what you were talking about. Is this the little rectangular section kinda in the middle of the back right corner? Was there a visible gap after you reassembled? Mine is broken down and I'll look at it in more detail when I do a dry fit, but do you still agree with your original instincts that the gap should be filled? I feel like the box should be 100% tight with the exception of the air control.
Also thank you for the pointer with regard to avoiding the the air control lever getting set in cement, you said you just coated yours in antiseize, I'd rather mine not touch any cement at all so hopefully I'll figure out a way to avoid that.

 

[Drew777]

It sounds like you used the caulking tube size Rutland stove cement product. Do you recall if it took one or two tubes to complete the rebuild?

For future reference to anyone, I used about 3-1/2 caulk size tubes of Rutland furnace cement on the body of mine and a tube of stove and gasket cement on the gaskets, full rebuild entire stove.

 

[Drew777]

With the primary air manifold already bolted in place with new 5/16 gasket, cement all the tracks on the front. I was not sure what to do where the air adjuster rod passes through the cement. I decided to coat it with neversieze. So the cement should not stick and let it run free when dry. Set and attach front similar to back.

I wanted to add to this for future reference to anyone. Where the rod passes thru to the outside, my stove had an extra piece of gasket behind the rod. I went a little further and made like a gasket sandwich before cementing the front on the unit.

Everywhere that the rod passes over the gasket I skipped the cement. I also had to take a real sharp blade and cut into the gasket a tiny bit so that the air doors sat flush. Used 5/16" VC gasket and couldn't get the air doors to sit flush otherwise.

Then right before cementing the front on the unit I added another piece of gasket over top of the rod with a bit of cement on both ends to hold it in place.

The air doors work great, the front mounted perfect, and it's slightly tighter than how it was done at the factory. Hope this helps anyone who doesn't know what to do in this situation!

 

[vinny11950]

I wanted to add to this for future reference to anyone. Where the rod passes thru to the outside, my stove had an extra piece of gasket behind the rod. I went a little further and made like a gasket sandwich before cementing the front on the unit.
View attachment 325400 View attachment 325401
Everywhere that the rod passes over the gasket I skipped the cement. I also had to take a real sharp blade and cut into the gasket a tiny bit so that the air doors sat flush. Used 5/16" VC gasket and couldn't get the air doors to sit flush otherwise.
View attachment 325402
Then right before cementing the front on the unit I added another piece of gasket over top of the rod with a bit of cement on both ends to hold it in place.
View attachment 325403
The air doors work great, the front mounted perfect, and it's slightly tighter than how it was done at the factory. Hope this helps anyone who doesn't know what to do in this situation!

Great information, Drew. Thank you very much.