OK thanks for the heads up on the thermostat.......and I was just checking for info on the best way to hook furnace up to the chimney tee with the black stovepipe.....not wanting to take shortcuts. ...
drolet tundra install
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Describe your chimney. You may not need a baro...you will need to check the draft though, if it's too high then it will need to be controlled. Drolet recommends a baro, it's either that or a key damper, which they do not recommend...
Bobthe
New Member
The FocusPro 5000 seems pretty high-tech. Does the furnace actually respond to any of the advanced functions of this thermostat, or does the furnace only respond to ON/OFF like what you'd get from an old mercury thermostat?
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
^^That's right, it's no more complicated than that.
I think I paid $4.99 on sale for a bare-bones basic thermostat at Menards. It still has a bunch of modes and settings and programmings that I don't use, but all you need is on/off at the temperature setpoint.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
A thermostat is just a temperature controlled switch, when the switch closes it activates the damper motor on the Tundra. The way the FP5000 comes out of the box has always worked fine for me. There are some more advanced things in the menu that could be messed with though...
I don't like the old tech tstats for wood furnaces, too much swing in the temp from on to off. The FP 5000 will hold the temp within 1*, most older tstats were 2*, in others words, set it at 70...69 kicks it on, 71 kicks it off
I don't like the old tech tstats for wood furnaces, too much swing in the temp from on to off. The FP 5000 will hold the temp within 1*, most older tstats were 2*, in others words, set it at 70...69 kicks it on, 71 kicks it off
My chimney will be running up about 3 feet to the left of the peak in the roof...factory made 2 inch think insulated pre fab chimney....
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Can someone post a pic here if the filter on the back of the blower housing.....the attachment that u have to buy separate? Thanks
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
No one posted yet so you're stuck with my not-too-detailed picture for now. This is before I rearranged my ductwork and added a return plenum, so I can't get a picture now without the return plenum blocking it.
![[Hearth.com] drolet tundra install](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/image-14-webp.165005/ "[Hearth.com] drolet tundra install")
The filter holder thingy is a C-shaped piece that bolts to the 3 black screws at the top of the blower box and the additional 3 black screws at the bottom of the blower box. In the picture above, the piece is a reversed C, as follows:
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The filter holder thingy can be mounted on the blower box to the left facing backward, right facing backward, rear facing left, and rear facing right. The three sides of the filter holder have flanges that contain the filter against the blower box. You can kind of make out the metal flanges overlapping the white cardboard that makes the perimeter of the filter.
Is that enough detail?
The filter holder thingy is a C-shaped piece that bolts to the 3 black screws at the top of the blower box and the additional 3 black screws at the bottom of the blower box. In the picture above, the piece is a reversed C, as follows:
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The filter holder thingy can be mounted on the blower box to the left facing backward, right facing backward, rear facing left, and rear facing right. The three sides of the filter holder have flanges that contain the filter against the blower box. You can kind of make out the metal flanges overlapping the white cardboard that makes the perimeter of the filter.
Is that enough detail?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
The site has not been reliably sending me alerts since the "upgrade" Pahtooey!
I dont have any pics as of right now, but I think the filter holder would be very easy to make. It is just thin sheet metal (like duct work) it would be easy to DIY a holder if you have or have access to a few tinknocker tools...all you hafta do is hold the filter in place over the hole, heck, I 'spose you could "redneck it"...duct tape it in place
Hey folks...quick update....got er hooked up...very happy so far......however I didn't hook up thermostat yet.......but my damper don't close all the way when I got a real good fire going in the furnace, any ideas why?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Take the little square box off the front where it covers the damper linkage. Also take off the cover of the metal controls box in the back. Check out the linkage front and rear, make sure everything is in place and seated, and not hanging up or binding on anything when it cycles. Does the damper door work freely by hand? (when cold!)
Some people have reported that the linkage rod bounced out of place during shipping/handling and or installation
Some people have reported that the linkage rod bounced out of place during shipping/handling and or installation
It works perfect when fire is not in....seems like when the fire gets going real good it only closes halfway...
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
OK, I'd put some heavy leather gloves on and see how the damper works by hand when it is hot. When the damper control motor is not pulling open on the door, you should be able to move the damper by hand, very freely. Gravity is the only thing that makes it close
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
FYI, if you want to, you can easily remove the damper door once the linkage cover is off, just back the two pivot screws out. The screws thread into the cover, not the front of the furnace, so they only need to be backed out far enough to release the door from the furnace
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Mine did the same thing. @brenndatomu is right, just take the covers off front and rear and you should see where the hang-up is. Mine was on the front, the end of the rod is bent into a hook that connects to the damper lever, the hook was bent a little too tight and would bind on the lever. A few seconds with the needle nose pliers and it was obvious the problem was solved.
FWIW, I busted off one of the screws holding the front box, the end of the screw is still stuck in the 3/16" plate steel. Maybe work your magic or penetrating oil if you're concerned about it. Mine is working just fine with the single screw holding it in, but I know it's not right.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Those screws sometimes will come right loose if the stove is hot, sometimes if it is stone cold, have to check it both ways. My lil stove in the upstairs fireplace can only be worked on stone cold, if it is warm or hot the screws/bolts won't budge. Cold, no problem
Another quick question.....do u only put a filter on one side? If so what do u cover the other side and back up with?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
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