Correct. The hearth needs to extend at least 16" in front of the stove door, but there is no harm and some benefit to extending if further.Micore 300 has an R value of 2.06 per inch of thickness so that might be the best material to use.
Correct. The hearth needs to extend at least 16" in front of the stove door, but there is no harm and some benefit to extending if further.Micore 300 has an R value of 2.06 per inch of thickness so that might be the best material to use.
The difference being that the Jotul and BK stoves were/are freestanding and this is an insert with no legs. I'm not sure there is an insert with a low R value hearth requirement for a flush hearth installation. The Sirocco 25 for example needs R=1.06 for a flush hearth install.I know you already own the Drolet, but it might be much easier to do the hearth extension if you don't have to meet these R-value requirements. My stoves (both the Jotuls I had before, and the Blaze Kings that replaced them) only required ember protection. So my extension was as simple as getting 1/2" cement board + tile to come out flush with the existing wood flooring. I can post photos on how I did it (tonight), but it won't be directly applicable for a case requiring R-value.
You are spot on, ash. I was pretty frustrated by the SBI requirements compared to others that I looked at. They must have a bigger team of lawyers. Can't fight it though. Just gotta follow the manual requirements.I know you already own the Drolet, but it might be much easier to do the hearth extension if you don't have to meet these R-value requirements. My stoves (both the Jotuls I had before, and the Blaze Kings that replaced them) only required ember protection. So my extension was as simple as getting 1/2" cement board + tile to come out flush with the existing wood flooring. I can post photos on how I did it (tonight), but it won't be directly applicable for a case requiring R-value.
Comparing freestanding to insert requirements is comparing apples to oranges. One has legs, the other doesn't. Likewise, a cast iron jacketed stove is going to have closer clearance requirements than some inserts. Not all inserts are designed the same; some have convective jackets on the sides and some have the bare steel of the firebox extending into the room. Likewise some inserts have convective tops and some have the stove top exposed. There are advantages both ways. Testing results have more to do with clearances than lawyers do.You are spot on, ash. I was pretty frustrated by the SBI requirements compared to others that I looked at. They must have a bigger team of lawyers. Can't fight it though. Just gotta follow the manual requirements.
Right you are, begreen. If my memory serves me, I compared similar stoves when I was researching (fully jacketed steel inserts) when comparing. SBI seemed to have the "safest" level of clearances of most that I looked at. Not a complaint, just makes things more complicated to get to code.Comparing freestanding to insert requirements is comparing apples to oranges. One has legs, the other doesn't. Likewise, a cast iron jacketed stove is going to have closer clearance requirements than some inserts. Not all inserts are designed the same; some have convective jackets on the sides and some have the bare steel of the firebox extending into the room. Likewise some inserts have convective tops and some have the stove top exposed. There are advantages both ways. Testing results have more to do with clearances than lawyers do.
Hadn't thought of that, a real positive. We do put a humidifier on ours, and plan to cook beans, soup, and chili in the future.The advantage is that the SBI inserts are a bit more radiant and one can cook on the top. I haven't run one, but would suspect that the SBI inserts are better than some for heating in a power outage with no fan running.
Its conflicting because the wordage says "front of the unit" but the actual picture points to the fireplace opening.... So I guess I don't know which. If its referring to the hearth extension from the fireplace opening as evidenced in the diagram, then its compliant because its 17" from that. However if it really means stove face(in which the diagram is wrong), then there is no way possible for me to be compliant at this time.
A level installation requires 16" of 5" deep hearth slab in front of the stove, from the face. Plus, 13" (or) more of hearth extension, with a minimum of R=2. That's what the picture describes with zero ambiguity.So there's multiple dimensions in the diagram. A is the dimension for the existing hearth extension measured from the fireplace opening. C is how far from the fireplace opening the insert's face is. B is the dimension that is constant depending on the hearth (raised within spec or not). D is the additional extension needed as necessary. The formula given is D=B-(A-C) and if it's 0 or negative, no additional extension is needed. Based on your photo, the distance of A-C is 10". B is 29". So D is 19". If you're going to use the Micore and have it start at the insert or even in the fireplace, it just needs to measure out 29" in front of the insert measured from the face.
When you look at page 35, notice is says Note 1 for dimension B in the table. Also note that the examples in the table are for a raised hearth. Here's the text for Note 1, found on page 37:
From door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is included in the calculation of the floor protector’s dimensions. The masonry hearth should be at least 4" (102 mm) higher than the combustible floor in front of it and a floor protection must extend at least 16" (406 mm USA) and at least 18" (457 mm Canada) with an R value of 1.24 or more. If the hearth elevation is lower than 4", the non-combustible (B) floor protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 2.00 and shall extend 29" (737 mm) in front of the unit.
So let's break that down. The first two sentences in your case is the 10". The next sentence, since your hearth is not higher than 4", your extension cannot be 16". The next sentence applies to you, since the hearth is lower than 4", and it defines B as 29" with R value of 2.00 in front of the unit aka from the face of the insert.
Hope that helps.
29" would be serious overkill. The math is wrong. In the US the hearth protection needs to extend at least 16" in front of the stove face. In Canada it's 18". Here is the table and formula for the calculation.This makes intuitive sense, as I believe they are trying to get 29" total of ember protection from the opening of the stove when loading, etc.
View attachment 201229
Here's the picture. For a level install hearth must be 5" thick and extend at least 16" in front of stove face. This is designated by the continuous slab in the picture and measurement "A".
What makes this confusing is the depth of the install is a variable (C). If it's a flush install, "C"=0, and A + D = B = 29.
So, a flush install requires at least 13" of R=2 protection beyond hearth slab.
An install that sticks out 2" needs at least 15" of the R=2 protection beyond the hearth slab.
This makes intuitive sense, as I believe they are trying to get 29" total of ember protection from the opening of the stove when loading, etc.
29" would be serious overkill. The math is wrong. In the US the hearth protection needs to extend at least 16" in front of the stove face. In Canada it's 18". Here is the table and formula for the calculation.
View attachment 201231
Seems like the whole equation is void in this case. Its void because of note 1 on page 37. "From the door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is included in the calculation of the floor protector's dimensions(depth as in height above the floor, not thickness). The masonry hearth should be at least 4" higher than the combustible floor in front of it and a floor protection must extend at least 16" with an R value of 1.24 or more. If the hearth elevation is lower than 4", the non-combustible (B) floor protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 2.00 and shall extend 29" in front of the unit.
That seems to void out everything else to me, that no matter what the equation produces I need 29" in front of the stove with an R value of 2.0.
To me, the best most logical permanent solution is to extend the hearth out that far. Given that I have about 10" or 11" already, I only need to extend the hearth 18" or 19".
For now I am just going to run a hearth pad. I got one from tractor supply. Its only got a R value of 1.5 but it will work for now as a temp solution.
Seems like the whole equation is void in this case. Its void because of note 1 on page 37. "From the door opening. The depth of the hearth extension in front of the insert is included in the calculation of the floor protector's dimensions(depth as in height above the floor, not thickness). The masonry hearth should be at least 4" higher than the combustible floor in front of it and a floor protection must extend at least 16" with an R value of 1.24 or more. If the hearth elevation is lower than 4", the non-combustible (B) floor protector in front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 2.00 and shall extend 29" in front of the unit.
That seems to void out everything else to me, that no matter what the equation produces I need 29" in front of the stove with an R value of 2.0.
To me, the best most logical permanent solution is to extend the hearth out that far. Given that I have about 10" or 11" already, I only need to extend the hearth 18" or 19".
For now I am just going to run a hearth pad. I got one from tractor supply. Its only got a R value of 1.5 but it will work for now as a temp solution.
Dro lay in French Canada (SBI headquarters) and Dro let in red States.Is it pronounced Dro-let, or Dro-lay?
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