Didn't Save As Much Oil As I Thought I Might (Year 1)

[davidmsem]

I'd seriously get an estimate on a boiler replacement .
A downsize to the correct size and an increase from 60/70 -85/90 % efficiency is a chunk of change even if HHO prices stay under $3 for a couple of years.

Hello Bill. My neighbor, the HVAC guy, recommended that I stay with oil, and use an indirect for domestic hot water. He recommends a Buderus with one of the advanced controllers. He does not like condensing boilers when they are oil fired. Additionally the install would be less than switching over to propane.

I should get a formal estimate.

Thanks for the input.

 

[maple1]

Very comfortable last winter. The fan on the Regency helps get heat out of the unit and into the room.

You remind me that I should convert my electric clothes dryer to propane!

At least the Vermont skiing was really sweet this past year.

I could have quoted any one of a number of posts, I just happened to click this one.

If you have LP now, and plan to keep it & use it, I would get rid of the oil boiler and oil tank, period. And as soon as possible. I can't think of any firm reason to have both fuels, factoring in the big liability potential from a possible oil tank leak and how inefficient your oil unit is.

I would replace it with an LP boiler for backup heating.

And I would put in an ordinary electric tank hot water heater for DHW. Making that switch alone will save you more money for less up front cost than your wood stove investment. Ours costs between $20-$25/mo to run for a family of 5, at $0.18/kwh. And the heater cost less than $400. Pretty easy math on the payback.

I believe your oil consumption numbers. Mine weren't quite that high - but in the summer I had my boiler turned down as low as I could set it & still not have leaks & still be able to make us enough hot water. If you want to think longer about what changes to make - I would immediately check my aquastat settings, with the amount of oil you're using I am almost certain it is set too high for just making DHW.

 

[maple1]

Hello Bill. My neighbor, the HVAC guy, recommended that I stay with oil, and use an indirect for domestic hot water. He recommends a Buderus with one of the advanced controllers. He does not like condensing boilers when they are oil fired. Additionally the install would be less than switching over to propane.

I should get a formal estimate.

Thanks for the input.

I would definitely get estimates on both a new oil, and new LP, boiler. Even if the LP was a bit more, it is way worth it to cut the oil umbilical with another fuel source already in place. Two if you count electricity. So glad to have yanked all our oil stuff out. Might seem like a huge uncertain leap before you do it, but feels some good afterwards.

 

[davidmsem]

I could have quoted any one of a number of posts, I just happened to click this one.

If you have LP now, and plan to keep it & use it, I would get rid of the oil boiler and oil tank, period. And as soon as possible. I can't think of any firm reason to have both fuels, factoring in the big liability potential from a possible oil tank leak and how inefficient your oil unit is.

I would replace it with an LP boiler for backup heating.

And I would put in an ordinary electric tank hot water heater for DHW. Making that switch alone will save you more money for less up front cost than your wood stove investment. Ours costs between $20-$25/mo to run for a family of 5, at $0.18/kwh. And the heater cost less than $400. Pretty easy math on the payback.

I believe your oil consumption numbers. Mine weren't quite that high - but in the summer I had my boiler turned down as low as I could set it & still not have leaks & still be able to make us enough hot water. If you want to think longer about what changes to make - I would immediately check my aquastat settings, with the amount of oil you're using I am almost certain it is set too high for just making DHW.

Thank you. I have both fuels as I added a 15kw backup electric generator that runs on propane. 500 gallon in ground that holds about 420 gallons useable. Hence the access to both fuels.

The boiler is down as low as it goes, temperature range is 140 to 180.

 

[maple1]

I would drop the 180 to 160. If I understood right. I think I ran mine at 140, + 15 diff = 155.

 

[billb3]

Hello Bill. My neighbor, the HVAC guy, recommended that I stay with oil, and use an indirect for domestic hot water. He recommends a Buderus with one of the advanced controllers. He does not like condensing boilers when they are oil fired. Additionally the install would be less than switching over to propane.

I should get a formal estimate.

Thanks for the input.

I have a 74k btu Buderus G115 with a Riello Direct vent burner with a 0.50GPH nozzle.
I paid a little extra for direct vent because I wanted to get rid of the chimney . A chimney just sucks warm air out of the house. If it's not sucking it out then it's a way for cold air to come in. More $ saving.
I had a solar panel on the roof but took it down to replace the roof. With all the roof penetrations gone except the DWV vent I'm loathe to drill the 6 holes in my shiny new roof to put it back. Plus we really need a second one or a bigger one. So it sits in the garage a thorn in my side.
But I figure it cots me $14-$20 / month for hot water right now so it can wait.

 

[davidmsem]

I would drop the 180 to 160. If I understood right. I think I ran mine at 140, + 15 diff = 155.

Aquastat does not go below 180 as the max temp. She cycles from 140 to 180.

 

[davidmsem]

I have a 74k btu Buderus G115 with a Riello Direct vent burner with a 0.50GPH nozzle.
I paid a little extra for direct vent because I wanted to get rid of the chimney . A chimney just sucks warm air out of the house. If it's not sucking it out then it's a way for cold air to come in. More $ saving.
I had a solar panel on the roof but took it down to replace the roof. With all the roof penetrations gone except the DWV vent I'm loathe to drill the 6 holes in my shiny new roof to put it back. Plus we really need a second one or a bigger one. So it sits in the garage a thorn in my side.
But I figure it cots me $14-$20 / month for hot water right now so it can wait.

I would be loathe to put holes in my new roof. Do you like the Buderus? Does it setback based on outside temperature?

 

[billb3]

I would be loathe to put holes in my new roof. Do you like the Buderus? Does it setback based on outside temperature?

We didn't get the outdoor reset as we only have 2 zones, one being the water maker.
We did put the G125 next door which comes with a controller as that house has 6 zones.
The outdoor reset is supposedly highly recommended for multiple zones.

The triple pass Buderus is quiet compared to the boiler we had before, but all the newer boilers are likely quiet.

 

[maple1]

Aquastat does not go below 180 as the max temp. She cycles from 140 to 180.

What model aquastat do you have? Pics of it?

Most use a differential setting/dial to set the operating temp spread.

I think a good portion of your excessive DHW oil use is due to that high 180 cut-out. It should be possible to adjust that back, to something like 160.

 

[davidmsem]

What model aquastat do you have? Pics of it?

Most use a differential setting/dial to set the operating temp spread.

I think a good portion of your excessive DHW oil use is due to that high 180 cut-out. It should be possible to adjust that back, to something like 160.

Thank you Maple..so very nice of you.....if you click on the thumbnails the pictures can be blown up.

 

[maple1]

Looks like the range of adjustment on your stat is 180-240. From some searching, I think that stat came in either that, or 120-240. So you're likely stuck unless you replace that stat with one with a lower setting. But if you don't make any other changes for a while, it might be worth the cost to replace. $138 on SupplyHouse site.

IMO, I don't know why they would put a stat that had a low range of 180 for its high limit. That leaves you with practically no adjustment range. And wastes a LOT of oil heating dhw in the off- heating season.

But there isn't another stat on the boiler anywhere is there? But on further thought on that, if there was that would be your low limit, which would set the min temp the boiler would maintain itself at, and have no effect on the high limit.

 

[davidmsem]

Looks like the range of adjustment on your stat is 180-240. From some searching, I think that stat came in either that, or 120-240. So you're likely stuck unless you replace that stat with one with a lower setting. But if you don't make any other changes for a while, it might be worth the cost to replace. $138 on SupplyHouse site.

IMO, I don't know why they would put a stat that had a low range of 180 for its high limit. That leaves you with practically no adjustment range. And wastes a LOT of oil heating dhw in the off- heating season.

But there isn't another stat on the boiler anywhere is there? But on further thought on that, if there was that would be your low limit, which would set the min temp the boiler would maintain itself at, and have no effect on the high limit.

Is this the one? . . Interesting......you can't specify which version you get..
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...ount-Aquastat-Relay-8F-differential-5477000-p

 

[maple1]

I think so. The specs listed say 120 is the low side of the temp range. But if interested, they should be able to confirm with a phone call.

Also, that one has an 8° differential. I would see if I could find one with a 15° differential, which I think they also make - but I don't see one on their site and not sure it would really matter that much anyway.

(I could swear when I was looking at that last night the price was $138...)

 

[davidmsem]

I think so. The specs listed say 120 is the low side of the temp range. But if interested, they should be able to confirm with a phone call.

Also, that one has an 8° differential. I would see if I could find one with a 15° differential, which I think they also make - but I don't see one on their site and not sure it would really matter that much anyway.

(I could swear when I was looking at that last night the price was $138...)

Thanks....I will give them a call and see....and yes the 8 degree differential caught my eye as well. Right now I see my temperature gauge dip to 140 and then, when running, rise to 180ish.

Two things I wonder: 1) If I keep the boiler for 8 more years (say 30 years of life), would this payback? 2) Could I do this install myself? I work with electric no problem, I'm more concerned about the attachment to the well.

I will do some additional homework and see about this change.