Cutting UNIFORM length's for the spliter ?..................

[Poindexter]

I had a separate measuring stick for a while, put a mark on my woodchuck hookaroon thingy instead, one less piece of gear to lose in the woods.

I do fine with one piece of yellow and one piece of blue sidewalk chalk in my saw box. One or the other shows up real nice.

I probably will try a pair 10d or so nails connected with a 16" piece of string someday. For that to work good I want the nails to be big enough to grip easy with gloves on, but small enough to pocket easy.

The hookaroon with the mark is 32", I just used a permanent marker 16" from each end.

 

[SawdustSA]

I use 2 nails with a piece of string inbetween. Quick to mark a log and it takes up no space in the toolbox. I fact, I keep it in my pocket while bucking a tree.

 

[Vikestand]

The old eyeball gets it close enough. my stove doesn't discriminate against a piece that is 17" or 16".

 

[Hasufel]

I just let my bar be my guide--the visible part is almost exactly the right length. That works surprisingly well, at least with my current saw. Sometimes I'll adjust if I encounter some big knots--cut the knotty part short so it's easier to split, and maybe leave the straight sections a bit long. I like having a mix of longer and shorter pieces for my outdoor fireplace so that works out pretty well.

 

[jetsam]

I like the chainsaw bar because it seems to be the best answer to the question, "What measuring tool is easiest to lug through the woods, assuming I'm already lugging chainsaw, hatchet, wedges, and often a maul?"

 

[Ashful]

I like the chainsaw bar because it seems to be the best answer to the question, "What measuring tool is easiest to lug through the woods, assuming I'm already lugging chainsaw, hatchet, wedges, and often a maul?"

Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw. It will get old VERY fast. "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.

I love the string and nails idea... never tried that. I'm a 17" stick in left hand, with top-handle saw or big chalk in right hand, guy.

 

[baseroom]

Eyeball it. I actually don't want everything uniform. The IR has a narrower section at the back. So if I'm loading E-W I need shorter logs to fill the back and longer to fill up the front. Now if i load N-S I need another length log to fill most of the stove but some real short ones on both sides. So the loading game is much more fun and productive with different sized splits. I will say it does make stacking much more of a challenge!

 

[sportbikerider78]

Eyeball. I aim for 19-21"

 

[Vikestand]

Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw. It will get old VERY fast. "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.

I love the string and nails idea... never tried that. I'm a 17" stick in left hand, with top-handle saw or big chalk in right hand, guy.

Why? As a quote from braveheart "Some men are bigger than others!"

 

[DougA]

I cut a stick the correct length, painted it fluorescent yellow and it lasted a week before it got lost.

Now, I just hold the saw at the correct spot on the handle at the end of the last cut and the end of the bar is at the right spot for the next cut. If I loose the saw, well, can't cut anyway If I have a helper with me, I get them to do the same thing with the bush axe and chop a mark where to cut.

 

[jetsam]

Uh... try doing that turn-the-saw technique to eye the length of each round with a real saw. It will get old VERY fast. "Real saw" means something over 75cc, or anything useful for actually bucking logs.

The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!

 

[Pennsyltucky Chris]

I have a 48" 2x4 that I have marked at 16" and 32". I line either end up and make 3 marks with spray paint. I move down the trunk accordingly.

 

[billb3]

I use the bar for 16"
No BFD if some are longer, one stove can take 20" easy .
My sister has a top loader that can take 24/25 maybe longer.

 

[Ashful]

The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!

I use an 85 cc saw for bucking. It's so damn fast with a 28" bar, that my cutting partner doesn't even bother starting his 50cc Echo anymore. I'm mostly cutting stuff in the 40 - 48 inch range, since the land-owner keeps the smaller stuff for himself.

 

[Vikestand]

The biggest trees around here are 36" and down for the most part. I don't need to be carrying a motorcycle engine through the woods to cut firewood!

I laughed lol

 

[Vikestand]

I use an 85 cc saw for bucking. It's so damn fast with a 28" bar, that my cutting partner doesn't even bother starting his 50cc Echo anymore. I'm mostly cutting stuff in the 40 - 48 inch range, since the land-owner keeps the smaller stuff for himself.

what variety of tree?

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I use 2 nails with a piece of string inbetween. Quick to mark a log and it takes up no space in the toolbox. I fact, I keep it in my pocket while bucking a tree.

Great idea- I'm switching to your technique! Thanks Sawdust.

 

[Ashful]

what variety of tree?

On that property, almost entirely oak and ash. I've hauled out a few sassafras and two hickory, but cords and cords and cords of oak and ash. The sass and hickory are smaller, with the oak and ash varying from maybe 18" to 60" diameter. As mentioned previously, he keeps the manageable stuff for his own needs, and gives me the big stuff. It's a mutually-beneficial relationship... I think.

 

[Vikestand]

Trees that size can bring some money.

 

[Ashful]

Yep... but not for me! Not my land. The owner has thought a little bit about having it logged, but has decided against it, since the wood is not accessible without going thru the yards of the two houses he has on this property, and doing a lot of damage getting back to the big stuff. Good for me!

 

[firefighterjake]

I use Global Positioning Satellites and laser surveyor tools . . . nah . . . I just use the chainsaw bar and after awhile you can get pretty good at eyeballing it . . . and as someone else said, usually an inch or two or three doesn't make that much of a difference (at least in my case since I aim for 18 inches and my stove can take a longer split.)

 

[venator260]

I also paint my measuring stick orange and have had it for several years now. I put it up against the log and note where the end is, keep my eye on it, and keep the stick in my left hand as I cut.

This is what I do. Seems to be the fastest way. It's easier to progress up the tree to the left, as I'm right handed. Measure with the left hand with the saw resting against my leg in the right. Eyeball the spot, swing the saw up around, grab it with my left hand that has the stick in it, and cut. I can keep this up for a few hours, although i suppose my saw doesn't quite meet the "real man" definition laid out previously. It's only 60cc (Husky 562 XP) This one is quite a bit easier to lug around than the McColluch Timber Bear that cut the logs to buy the saw (13lbs. vs. 18lbs)

I'm usually processing full length trees less saleable logs, so some of the systems I've seen that involve placing trees on top wouldn't work for me. The above works pretty well, and the tractor with forks allows me to pile up the wood and keep my chain out of the dirt. This system also worked on the logyard cleanup my dad and I got into this spring processing butt cuts and end cuts. Just had to roll the piece over to finish the cut.

 

[jb6l6gc]

Wow some guys definitely overthink it kinda reminds me of that artisan firewood video. My eye is calibrated to a certain range. Haven't cut one yet that doesn't fit or stack well!

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Wow some guys definitely overthink it kinda reminds me of that artisan firewood video. My eye is calibrated to a certain range. Haven't cut one yet that doesn't fit or stack well!

I have! And way too often when I don't mark em first. Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun. I greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor). When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.

 

[jb6l6gc]

I have! And way too often when I don't mark em first. Pulling a burning split back out of the stove when it is just a half inch too long to close the glass door is no fun. I greatly prefer loading North-South, as I can stuff it full and the they don't want to roll forward (onto the floor). When you have just over 16 inches, you want to get your money's worth.

Then again I have a furnace and a Zc fireplace both can take a good length not like most stoves.