Seriously!?? The specs on a T-5 say it is29.75" high. Your pic looks like it has way more than 1.25" clearance. Am I looking at the right picture?
Conflicting advice... Jotul, Harman, PE... Fireplace installation
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If max firepower is wanted a 30-NC like mine or for PE stoves a PE Summit would work. Both are around 29" tall.
My Englander has a step top on it inside the fireplace that isn't obvious so much in the pic. When I took the pic I was squatted down a little low.
ETA: And you have to remember the height of the flue collar which is two inch tall and can't be seen on mine because of the camera angle.
Believe me. It is a tight fit and attaching that liner was no picnic.
ETA: And you have to remember the height of the flue collar which is two inch tall and can't be seen on mine because of the camera angle.
Believe me. It is a tight fit and attaching that liner was no picnic.
jotul?
Burning Hunk
Not to Bogart this thread, but aren't cast stoves pretty much timeless? I know they need rebuilt at certain points, but isn't that the point of a rebuild? Let me know if I need to start a new thread.
That's what I thought too. But apparently my old Jotul (about 20 yrs old) is beyond repair, with some cracked and warped interior parts. It is certainly still usable (I used it last season) but I wonder if it is safe at this point. Repair guy told me to sell it for parts. A guy on Craigslist offered me $50 for it!
The three (side and back) plates in the F100 are a breeze to change out. Of course it is time to take it apart and re-cement all of the joints. But it would still be a small heater that only takes a 16" stick with the ends greased.
jotul?
Burning Hunk
I would think that it would be worth more than that by weight in scrap. However, I'm a sucker for old stuff so I may be steering you wrong. I did just move from a 50 year old, completely remodeled house, to a 120 year old, not remodeled house with matching barn. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain...
The Harman is a downdraft stove compared to the PE or the Jotul stoves that use secondary burn technology. Downdraft stoves are usually more tricky to operate, better suited for 24/7 burners, and more prone to costly repairs of the refractory in the back of the firebox. See also here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/downdraft-stove-operation/
Be also aware that burn times are often "determined" by the marketing department. Unless you find actual owner reviews stating such long burn times I would be cautious.
If you are searching for long burn times take a look at the catalytic stoves from BlazeKing and Woodstock. The latter sells only factory-direct and is close to you in Lebanon. They have the new Ideal Steel at a great introductory price now which can be top or rear-vented like their other stoves. They offer a 6-month, no questions asked return guarantee.
For a top-loading stove check out the F50 Rangeley from Jotul. In contrast to the Harman it is a secondary burn stove.
Regarding the PE Super: The insert needs 15" top clearance to mantel or fireplace facing but it also has a cast iron top plate. Not sure if the number is not higher for the stove and whether you can reduce clearance with a mantel heat shield. I suggest calling PE.
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To my mind, a freestanding stove is a better option than any insert (no blower required, but you will find a floor fan blowing into the hearth to be very helpful.) I would suggest at least a 2 cu ft firebox., whether steel, cast iron or soapstone.
I put a Harman in my fireplace, and though it has served me well, I would not suggest the Oakwood for a number of reasons, as Grisu mentioned (longer learning curve, tempermental burn technology, potentially more expensive to maintain, easier to overfire, harder to dial down, etc, etc.). I will eventually replace it with a cat stove, probably a Woodstock. And no, I do NOT get 17 hour burn times of useful heat, not even half that... but Blaze King cat owners do!
If you end up buying a stove from a box store (perhaps an inexpensive Englander) or direct from Woodstock, rather than from a dealer, there are sweeps and installers than can do the install for you, rather than going through a stove shop/dealer, if you don't want to do it yourself. As you can already see, many dealers can not be depended upon for complete (or even accurate) information and service, so you've come to the right place by posting questions here. The notion that a fireplace MUST require an insert, vs. a freestanding stove, is utter nonsense.
I put a Harman in my fireplace, and though it has served me well, I would not suggest the Oakwood for a number of reasons, as Grisu mentioned (longer learning curve, tempermental burn technology, potentially more expensive to maintain, easier to overfire, harder to dial down, etc, etc.). I will eventually replace it with a cat stove, probably a Woodstock. And no, I do NOT get 17 hour burn times of useful heat, not even half that... but Blaze King cat owners do!
If you end up buying a stove from a box store (perhaps an inexpensive Englander) or direct from Woodstock, rather than from a dealer, there are sweeps and installers than can do the install for you, rather than going through a stove shop/dealer, if you don't want to do it yourself. As you can already see, many dealers can not be depended upon for complete (or even accurate) information and service, so you've come to the right place by posting questions here. The notion that a fireplace MUST require an insert, vs. a freestanding stove, is utter nonsense.
Just to clarify: The stove I that is "beyond repair" is an old Jotul 8.... catalytic model. The F100 in the pics was in the house when I bought it and is just not big enough, so I am looking to replace it. As far as I know it is in great working order, and only a couple of years old.
Thank you everyone for the replies.... This has been very helpful! At least I know I am not completely nuts with thinking I could do this in the fireplace, and I will take another look at the PE stoves. And I had never even heard of the Englanders, so I may take a look at them too. This is not an install I plan to do myself, but I do want it to work!
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