Cold corner in fire box

[task]

We have noticed since we first fired up this used stove that the right back corner seems to stay cold. In fact, it's almost the whole right side of the stove - the left side front and back do all the work, all the flames happen over there, and only ever now and then do we see anything happening on the right side, particularly back corner.

I have also noticed over the past 2 weeks that it acts as though it's starved for air. I can't get hot temps anymore. I can barely get the flue to 350. Opening the door gives it the air it wants and it roars to life, then dies to almost nothing when the door is shut. It was not like this just 2 weeks ago.

Then my wife just informed me that when she was bringing it home the stove fell over and she had to restack the fire brick inside without a manual or pattern to go off of. Could we have inadvertently blocked an air hole or something by not stacking the fire brick correctly?

 

[Gearhead660]

Pics of the inside would be helpful. How severe was the "fall over"? Double check the damper, maybe something happened when it tipped over.

 

[task]

Ok, I will take pictures tonight. I've got the firebrick layout now so we'll pull those out and take a look at everything, see how the damper is working.

I'm just not entirely sure about the anatomy of a modern wood stove, how the air is delivered from the intake at the bottom of the stove somehow routing to the firebox. Should there be vent holes or something in the firebox for that air to get there? Could we have stacked a firebrick in front of a vent hole?

 

[Ludlow]

Most stove manuals have a schematic of how the brick are arranged.

 

[Gearhead660]

Ok, I will take pictures tonight. I've got the firebrick layout now so we'll pull those out and take a look at everything, see how the damper is working.

I'm just not entirely sure about the anatomy of a modern wood stove, how the air is delivered from the intake at the bottom of the stove somehow routing to the firebox. Should there be vent holes or something in the firebox for that air to get there? Could we have stacked a firebrick in front of a vent hole?

Air should come in at the damper. These types of steel tube stoves usually run square/rectangle tube inside the firebox delivering air to the glass wash above the door and back to the secondary tubes. Don't think you covered any holes. As Ludlow mentioned, check your manual, lots of useful info.

 

[Ludlow]

When it fell over did you inspect the baffle and blanket?

 

[Gearhead660]

When it fell over did you inspect the baffle and blanket?

Totally forgot about that... think you're on to something.

 

[task]

Air should come in at the damper. These types of steel tube stoves usually run square/rectangle tube inside the firebox delivering air to the glass wash above the door and back to the secondary tubes. Don't think you covered any holes. As Ludlow mentioned, check your manual, lots of useful info.

So, the manual doesn't have a drawing of how the stove is built, air is routed or any of that. However, it does hint at it in the operation section when it suggests spreading the coal bed with a trough down the middle from front to back for air intake. That makes it sound like there's some kind of air hole/port somewhere near there, but it doesn't specify.

I took the firebrick out and cleaned inside and, sure enough, I noticed there is a square/rectangle tube inside the firebox that runs up both sides of the door frame, presumably delivering air to the glass wash above the door, as you said.

The manual also does not say anything about how the baffle is supposed to sit.

 

[task]

When it fell over did you inspect the baffle and blanket?

It appears to be a simple baffle board, no blanket, and does not appear to be damaged. I'm not sure it's been sitting in the right spot though, and the manual doesn't specify how it should sit on the tubes. I looks like an oversized pocket that it sits in, but can be pushed forward or pushed back - it's actually angled toward the back making me think it should be pushed back.

 

[Ludlow]

They must be pushed tight to the back.

 

[begreen]

Baffle installation is on page 3 of the manual. It indicates there is an insulation blanket. Fish around back there and see if it is bunched up along one side or toward the rear of the stove.

 

[task]

I wonder if I have the right manual then. My page 3 is about installing an outside air kit. There is no drawing of the stove anywhere in mine.

It sounds like I'm going to have to disconnect my stove to get this baffle part correct. I don't have 2 baffle bricks either, just one baffle board that appears to require taking the tubes out in order to remove.

The stove appeared to burn a little better last night, but not a dramatic difference. What part does the baffle and blanket play in the draft of the stove?

 

[Gearhead660]

The baffle should be centered and all the way back. Should be able to move around by hand from underside. Tubes most likely need to be twisted slightly to be removed. I would go to their website and download the manual for the stove and see if its the same as the one you have.

 

[begreen]

I wonder if I have the right manual then. My page 3 is about installing an outside air kit. There is no drawing of the stove anywhere in mine.

It sounds like I'm going to have to disconnect my stove to get this baffle part correct. I don't have 2 baffle bricks either, just one baffle board that appears to require taking the tubes out in order to remove.

My copy is old, from 2012 I think. There may be updates and changes to the stove that I am not aware of.


Edit: Yes, looks like the manual was revised last year. The new one shows a single baffle board.

 

[task]

We're getting closer. Here's the snapshot of the manual I'm working with. May 2018. I don't see the date on yours, but I suspect it's updated from the one I've been using. I'm going to see if I can find that manual online now...It sounds like it has more information I need, too.

 

[begreen]

We're getting closer. Here's the snapshot of the manual I'm working with. May 2018. I don't see the date on yours, but I suspect it's updated from the one I've been using. I'm going to see if I can find that manual online now...It sounds like it has more information I need, too.

5/2/18 is the date of the one I just downloaded. You have the latest version.

 

[jetsam]

Next question: Is the OP's manual the right one for the stove the OP actually has? If the manual was downloaded but the OP has the older version of the stove, there could still be a blanket wadded up in there.

 

[begreen]

Yeah, I don't know when the baffle change was made, assuming it was in 2018. Also, don't know the OP's stove mfg. date.

 

[jetsam]

I think at this point I'd just call the manufacturer and ask them if there should be a blanket or not. They can probably also give some model specific troubleshooting tips.

If one side of my stove didn't burn, I'd be looking at intake air and wood quality first. If intake air was good but a blanket was blocking part of the exhaust path, we'd be hearing "why is my stove smoking" or other poor draft stuff.

 

[task]

I have no idea at the moment, but I remember seeing a label on the back of the stove. I thought I had already taken a pic of it and blew it up on my phone here but I'm not finding it so I'll have to look at it again tonight.

Thanks for your help, ya'll.

TK

 

[Woody Stover]

What part does the baffle and blanket play in the draft of the stove?

The baffle board routes the smoke past the reburn tubes or secondary air baffle. If the board isn't all the way back, exhaust can escape directly from the box to the flue exit, bypassing the reburn section and you might get a smoky burn as suggested by jetsam. If there's a blanket out of position or wadded from when the stove tipped over, it might be blocking one side of the exhaust path, causing the fire to burn hotter on the other side.
Yep, get a look at the metal tag on the stove to get the model number and date of manufacture, then you can get the right manual and go from there.

 

[Grizzerbear]

You say it was working fine two weeks ago. Was this after your wife brought it home or before.

have also noticed over the past 2 weeks that it acts as though it's starved for air. I can't get hot temps anymore. I can barely get the flue to 350. Opening the door gives it the air it wants and it roars to life, then dies to almost nothing when the door is shut. It was not like this just 2 weeks ago.

Just curious trying to narrow down if the falling over had anything to do with it at all. And which way do you load your firebox. I agree with jetsam on wood quality, but also if you are loading ew this will sometimes slow a fire down to where it burn more on one side depending on air gaps and path of least resistance for air to travel. This doesnt always happen but i have noticed it even with good dry wood that sometimes it seems one side burns better than the other. But i never have a problem with flue temps regardless. Just a thought.

 

[Woody Stover]

You say it was working fine two weeks ago. Was this after your wife brought it home or before...I agree with jetsam on wood quality

Oh yeah I forgot he said it was OK a couple weeks ago. And wood quality hasn't been questioned yet. Could be two separate issues: Air flow within the stove from the beginning, possibly due to a blocked air duct (mouse nest etc) or baffle blanket out of position, recently compounded by getting into some wetter wood that won't burn strong with the door closed and doesn't put out as much heat.

 

[task]

Ok, so after we reset the baffle board and blew out the air tube, as best we could, it seems to have resolved most of these issues. I no longer have a cold spot in the stove and it does seem to get a little more air now. We can get the fire nice and hot, and then close the damper as well. I have also started playing around with the door handle and how tightly it seals.

There was no baffle blanket found when I reached up there to feel around. And, as this weekend was hectic and busy, I totally forgot to take a picture of the stove label to see if it indicates the correct model and manufacturing date.

We did get a moisture content meter and most of our wood is wet. We do have quite a pile of dry (15% or under) wood to work with, but I know we were burning wet wood in there. After a full day of measuring, splitting and stacking, we finally have an organized firewood supply. But now we're going to have to buy some seasoned firewood while mine seasons for next year or so....

 

[Ludlow]

Split the wetter stuff smaller and mix sparingly in with the dry stuff.