cold air intake for eko 40

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huffdawg

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Oct 3, 2009
1,457
British Columbia Canada
Just like to know what others have been using for a cold air intake for their gassers. I read something about a reverse p trap style but I cant find it in the search tab.

Cheers Huff
 
I put a 4" vent in the wall behind the EKO, then ran insulated flex duct in a U shape up the wall, then down the wall and under the EKO to create a heat trap. The open end of the duct is under the middle of the boiler. When I load and have the draft fan on, you can feel the cold air being drawn in from outside. The wall vent has a metal screen to keep the chipmunks and other critters out.
 
A contractor friend in Colorado would run his combustion air duct down into a 5 gallon plastic bucket, no lid. He claimed this would form a trap and stop drafts.

On some jobs requiring large combustion air in small mechanical rooms, we got an ok from the AHJ to interlock a motorized damper. I have seen mechanical rooms with snow drifts inside from the combustion air louvers!

I have also seen hoods that would adapt the combustion duct right against the boiler firebox. I thought about that concept for my EKO, bring the outside air right to the fan cover.

My next upgrade will be a motorized skylight above the boiler. In addition to allowing some daylighting in my windowless room, it could be opened to allow smoke out when the boiler door is opened to fuel the beast.

hr
 
in hot water said:
My next upgrade will be a motorized skylight above the boiler. In addition to allowing some daylighting in my windowless room, it could be opened to allow smoke out when the boiler door is opened to fuel the beast.

hr

Wow, that is a excellent idea. I open the exterior entry door but allot still stays above the door.
 
While putting up some sheetrock in the boiler room today I could smell a musky odour coming from my water drain that I installed for the boiler. Then I got an Idea why not use this as a air intake for the boiler? It just drains into a drainage ditch in front of my house . (Its not sewer).

Does anyone have any reasons why not to do this?

Huff
 
huffdawg said:
While putting up some sheetrock in the boiler room today I could smell a musky odour coming from my water drain that I installed for the boiler. Then I got an Idea why not use this as a air intake for the boiler? It just drains into a drainage ditch in front of my house . (Its not sewer).

Does anyone have any reasons why not to do this?

Huff

No reason other than the smell it could bring along from the ditch. When the fire is burning it will pull air from somewhere. Usually leaks around doors or overhead doors provide a portion of that.

With super insulated tight construction you can pull all the O2 from a room and smother a fire or worse cause a backdraft where combustion air is being pulled down the vent pipe. Along with the byproducts of combustion like CO. I learned from CO experts this is a main cause of CO poisoning and deaths. It's the reason I am so determined to see CO detectors installed on every fuel burnin g appliances, especially wood burners! Be safe with you installations.

Some or the woodstoves built years back had the ability to pipe combustion air right into them. Keep in mind how MUCH air you need to support combustion, it ends up being a large pipe or opening.

The NFPA and Fuel Gas Codebooks have tables for sizing combustion air, they did scale them back a number of years ago for cold climate conditions. Years ago we were required to provide 1 square inch per 2000 BTU input, both high and low in the room. So 100 square inches for a 200,000 BTU/hr input appliance. Some of the air provided was for combustion, some for dilution air for the divertor hoods to draw properly. Two 10"X10" grills are like leaving a window open regardless if the boiler was firing or not!

hr
 
huffdawg said:
While putting up some sheetrock in the boiler room today I could smell a musky odour coming from my water drain that I installed for the boiler. Then I got an Idea why not use this as a air intake for the boiler? It just drains into a drainage ditch in front of my house . (Its not sewer).

Does anyone have any reasons why not to do this?

Huff


Make sure that there is some sort of grate or screen to prevent rodents from using it as an entry way.
 
in hot water said:
huffdawg said:
While putting up some sheetrock in the boiler room today I could smell a musky odour coming from my water drain that I installed for the boiler. Then I got an Idea why not use this as a air intake for the boiler? It just drains into a drainage ditch in front of my house . (Its not sewer).

Does anyone have any reasons why not to do this?

Huff

No reason other than the smell it could bring along from the ditch. When the fire is burning it will pull air from somewhere. Usually leaks around doors or overhead doors provide a portion of that.

With super insulated tight construction you can pull all the O2 from a room and smother a fire or worse cause a backdraft where combustion air is being pulled down the vent pipe. Along with the byproducts of combustion like CO. I learned from CO experts this is a main cause of CO poisoning and deaths. It's the reason I am so determined to see CO detectors installed on every fuel burnin g appliances, especially wood burners! Be safe with you installations.

Some or the woodstoves built years back had the ability to pipe combustion air right into them. Keep in mind how MUCH air you need to support combustion, it ends up being a large pipe or opening.

The NFPA and Fuel Gas Codebooks have tables for sizing combustion air, they did scale them back a number of years ago for cold climate conditions. Years ago we were required to provide 1 square inch per 2000 BTU input, both high and low in the room. So 100 square inches for a 200,000 BTU/hr input appliance. Some of the air provided was for combustion, some for dilution air for the divertor hoods to draw properly. Two 10"X10" grills are like leaving a window open regardless if the boiler was firing or not!

hr

I here ya IHW. I have caught my mom not turn the knob for the gas cook top off all the way off a couple times. I noticed it by the smell . If propane gas sinks, where do you install the CO detector.

In my last house I used make the Blazeking stove backdraft intensionally by loading it up with cedar kindling and letting it get going real good . Then damp it right down and shut the door for a couple minutes . Then standing to the side whip the door open . I could get a 6 foot flame to shoot out the front of the stove..LOL :red:
Yes the house is still there . But I was always worried someone might open up that stove under the wrong circumstances and get a bad surprise.
I will be gettting some CO detectors for my boiler room and my house.
 
LP gas alarms are mounted low as the LP collects at the floor level.. That is a different detector from a CO. CO is just for carbon monoxide detection. I have one near my mechanical room and one near the bedroom door.

George Kerr is the best source for info and low level CO alarms www.coexperts.com

hr
 
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