Installers in this area, my own, and two others I've done, are definitely sealed at the top of the chimney. Stainless chimney liner, with an insulated second layer of stainless pipe lined with 1/2 insulation, taped at the seams. Then 1/2 inch blanket insulation, taped at the seams, with a steel mesh to protect it when it's horsed into the chimney. The insulated layer ends at the top of the flu, chimney pipe continues up another 6 inches to a foot.
A stainless plate just fits over the chimney pipe. It is "pitched" around the hole in the center so water will not run into the gap if any should make its way in there. Before this is put on, high temp silicone caulking compound is liberally applied to the chimney top, and the plate is set on this.
All the connections are completed between the liner and the insert before this step.
A helper lifts the liner up slightly from the top, just taking a strain on it and maybe lifting about an inch or two, "take the slack out of it.", and holds it.
Push the top plate down on the caulking compound and the chimney, sealing that joint. Immediately apply a bead to the joint between the top plate and chimney pipe, and the bottom of the inclined "collar" with the clamp in it.
Add the "collar" with the clamp in it, and tighten it. Once it is tightened, helper can let go. Then caulk around the seam between the collar and the pipe.
Airtight, watertight, no leaks. There is a little "tension" in the liner, which will lessen the effects of expansion and contraction because it has more freedom of movement than if it was sitting full weight on top of the insert and clamped there.
It's what most are doing now, and seems to be working. Might be some out there not sealing things up well at the top, allowing air travel through the chimney to the outside. These situations should absolutely put a block off plate in.
A stainless plate just fits over the chimney pipe. It is "pitched" around the hole in the center so water will not run into the gap if any should make its way in there. Before this is put on, high temp silicone caulking compound is liberally applied to the chimney top, and the plate is set on this.
All the connections are completed between the liner and the insert before this step.
A helper lifts the liner up slightly from the top, just taking a strain on it and maybe lifting about an inch or two, "take the slack out of it.", and holds it.
Push the top plate down on the caulking compound and the chimney, sealing that joint. Immediately apply a bead to the joint between the top plate and chimney pipe, and the bottom of the inclined "collar" with the clamp in it.
Add the "collar" with the clamp in it, and tighten it. Once it is tightened, helper can let go. Then caulk around the seam between the collar and the pipe.
Airtight, watertight, no leaks. There is a little "tension" in the liner, which will lessen the effects of expansion and contraction because it has more freedom of movement than if it was sitting full weight on top of the insert and clamped there.
It's what most are doing now, and seems to be working. Might be some out there not sealing things up well at the top, allowing air travel through the chimney to the outside. These situations should absolutely put a block off plate in.