mellow said:Plenty of people run EPA stoves at 15' and they run fine, it is when you get below that you will for sure see draft issues.
Now a Pre-EPA stove that is designed for an 8" flue, that is the question, will it run on a 15' 6" liner? I would insulate the 6" liner to help with draft, but it might just be time to get a new insert. Sell that buck on CL for $300 and recoup some of your costs.
Do yourself a fovor, cut out a small section of the that damper frame. Your liner will be 6"ID , even if you get it through, you won't have any room to work.Litespeed said:mellow said:Plenty of people run EPA stoves at 15' and they run fine, it is when you get below that you will for sure see draft issues.
Now a Pre-EPA stove that is designed for an 8" flue, that is the question, will it run on a 15' 6" liner? I would insulate the 6" liner to help with draft, but it might just be time to get a new insert. Sell that buck on CL for $300 and recoup some of your costs.
I think that is the route i'm forced to take, if this "pro" will work with me now that I have a 10 in flue rather than 8in.
I pulled insert out yesterday (weather is quite warm), there is creosote all over the new liner (surprise surprise). Creosote everywhere above fireplace damper.
I'm going to ask him to line and insulate this with 6in and rework the bottom ring connection and top cap for backdraft (no more pour insulation). I measured the fireplace damper, it is right at 6 in, so should get through with a little massaging....
I can work the connection to a stove and insulate the smoke chamber. Still shaking my head.
I'll pay the original quote if he can come up with this (and given i'm sure he gets parts wholesale, should be coming out a little ahead, but not much). I'll even pay for him to sweep the chimney, but I want a thorough cleaning.
If he cannot work with finding some insulation and 6 in liner laying around, then, unfortunately, I will have no option than refuse payment. I will not pay for what I have as it is simply too dangerous to operate, and I would love to hear the excuse for not connecting once modifying the original flue, particularly when the insert has been installed the entire time. This gentlemen obviously does not work by the guidelines established by NFPA.
I'll know more Wednesday.
X2webby3650 said:Do yourself a fovor, cut out a small section of the that damper frame. Your liner will be 6"ID , even if you get it through, you won't have any room to work.Litespeed said:mellow said:Plenty of people run EPA stoves at 15' and they run fine, it is when you get below that you will for sure see draft issues.
Now a Pre-EPA stove that is designed for an 8" flue, that is the question, will it run on a 15' 6" liner? I would insulate the 6" liner to help with draft, but it might just be time to get a new insert. Sell that buck on CL for $300 and recoup some of your costs.
I think that is the route i'm forced to take, if this "pro" will work with me now that I have a 10 in flue rather than 8in.
I pulled insert out yesterday (weather is quite warm), there is creosote all over the new liner (surprise surprise). Creosote everywhere above fireplace damper.
I'm going to ask him to line and insulate this with 6in and rework the bottom ring connection and top cap for backdraft (no more pour insulation). I measured the fireplace damper, it is right at 6 in, so should get through with a little massaging....
I can work the connection to a stove and insulate the smoke chamber. Still shaking my head.
I'll pay the original quote if he can come up with this (and given i'm sure he gets parts wholesale, should be coming out a little ahead, but not much). I'll even pay for him to sweep the chimney, but I want a thorough cleaning.
If he cannot work with finding some insulation and 6 in liner laying around, then, unfortunately, I will have no option than refuse payment. I will not pay for what I have as it is simply too dangerous to operate, and I would love to hear the excuse for not connecting once modifying the original flue, particularly when the insert has been installed the entire time. This gentlemen obviously does not work by the guidelines established by NFPA.
I'll know more Wednesday.
Hillbilly said:Litespeed,
I think I have just what you need to connect the Buck stove to a 6" liner.
I had this castiron rectangle boot connected to my Buck stove. The boot will transition the rectangle to a 6" dia. ss liner.
If you are interested, it's free for the taking. Let me know!!
woodmiser said:Man it sounds crazy to just let the smoke billow out into the fireplace... but then I guess it's not much different than just an open fireplace?
Hogwildz said:Just wondering how your making out Lite?
Hogwildz said:$1,300.00 to fix his f'up? Of which the 6" liner costs about $450.00. What a POS! Almost like he had this planned from the beginning.
Did you check and see if he has a BBB rating?
If you wanted to just use the fireplace, the stove would not have been sitting in there.
Stick to your guns man! This is a big pile of BS.
EatenByLimestone said:The way this sounds like it is going, you may be in small claims court. In order to prove you aren't trying to scam the installer, find out ahead of time if you need to put money in escrow with the county clerk or somebody. It will prove the money is there pending resolution of the matter.
Matt
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