The chimney sweep went up and took that measurement.. and yes he mentioned mortar joints. What was your solution?
The chimney sweep went up and took that measurement.. and yes he mentioned mortar joints. What was your solution?
Again you dont have to use duraliner. You can use an ovalized flex liner that you insulate your self. It doesnt cost near as much. You could also call around to local sweeps and see if anyone has an ovalizer. We have run liners through our for people for $50 if they bring it to us.
Rectangle wont gain anything and costs allot moreWould he be better with oval or rectangle what would fit better?
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/oval-chimney-liner-liner-only.php
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/rectangle-chimney-liner-liner-only.php
Rectangle wont gain anything and costs allot more
Not needed there is plenty of room for a properly sized oval. And the corners of the rectangle are usless space anyway all they do is create more turbulence.Wouldn't you gain more clearance putting a rectangle liner in a rectangle flue then an oval in a rectangle flue?
Not needed there is plenty of room for a properly sized oval. And the corners of the rectangle are usless space anyway all they do is create more turbulence.
If the mortar is hanging out bad you knock it off either with rotary chains or a chisel pn the end of rods. And it dorsnt have to be that smooth the mesh doesnt get caught that easily.So how do you get the liner and insulation and wire mesh through the flue without it hanging up on every jagged Mortar joint?
Could I theoretically ovalize the whole pipe, stuff it down the flue, then de-ovalize the bottom part to connect to the stove?If the mortar is hanging out bad you knock it off either with rotary chains or a chisel pn the end of rods. And it dorsnt have to be that smooth the mesh doesnt get caught that easily.
So how do you get the liner and insulation and wire mesh through the flue without it hanging up on every jagged Mortar joint?
If the mortar is hanging out bad you knock it off either with rotary chains or a chisel pn the end of rods. And it dorsnt have to be that smooth the mesh doesnt get caught that easily.
Yes or ovalize all but the bottom and pull it up. Either way works fineCould I theoretically ovalize the whole pipe, stuff it down the flue, then de-ovalize the bottom part to connect to the stove?
You don't expect a professional to give away all his secrets do you?
I dont really think clearing rough spots is that valuable of a trade secret. LolI paid big bucks to join this forum I better get my money's worth
So I'm just going to keep throwing 'what if's' out there....
What if I ordered an ordinary 6" round SS liner, had it ovalized to 5" width, then (assuming that wrapped insulation would likely make it too bulky to fit) just pouring some vermiculite down. Wouldn't that not only work, but probably save me $500-600?
I'm sure there are some dudes on here that have good advice on this, but I'd assume having a buddy hold on to it while you pour would be sufficient as they could probably shake it in to place while the insulation settles.That sounds like a good idea, I'm wondering how you keep the liner centered in the Flue why your pouring the vermiculite down so the oval liner does not get pushed against the side loosing your 1" fire clearance.
Maybe you could use spacers something like this.
View attachment 220403
That's the issue...that and its really messy!I'm wondering how you keep the liner centered in the Flue why your pouring the vermiculite down so the oval liner does not get pushed against the side loosing your 1" fire clearance.
You actually need more room to properly use pour in insulation for a wood liner. Just either order an ovalized liner or find someone local with an ovalizer and order round. It should be 4.5 or 4.75 wide. Ant to msintain volume you will probably have to go up to a 7" liner.I'm sure there are some dudes on here that have good advice on this, but I'd assume having a buddy hold on to it while you pour would be sufficient as they could probably shake it in to place while the insulation settles.
You actually need more room to properly use pour in insulation for a wood liner. Just either order an ovalized liner or find someone local with an ovalizer and order round. It should be 4.5 or 4.75 wide. Ant to msintain volume you will probably have to go up to a 7" liner.
Golly gee... I am a frugal 20 something... but all this is really steering me towards just pulling the trigger on the ovalized rigid duralinerI took geometry in Junior high and I'm wondering how you think making a round into a oval wound would change the volume? Am I missing something.
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