Chimney clean-out door whistles… Is that ok?

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It is not an emergency, just seat up the cleanout for now. When you have a safe time to get up on the roof in spring is soon enough. It will take removing the tee snout, pulling the liner up and adding the extension with a cap on it. Attach to bottom of the tee and reinstall.Or you can just cap the tee and vacuum it out after sweeping.

Wow! I have to admit, that sounds pretty involved! Is it something I can do if I'm pretty handy or should I have a professional do it?

With regard to seating/sealing the clean out, how would you recommend I do that? Juvenile question I know...
 
With regard to seating/sealing the clean out, how would you recommend I do that? Juvenile question I know...

Already answered twice. Reread the last response or post #13 in this thread.
 
The way to fix it would be to cut an 8.5"x8.5" hole on the back of the chimney right where the bottom of the Tee is located. Then you can put a clean out door over the hole after you install a Tee cap. It's very easy.i just did one and it took only 30 minutes.
There is no reason to ever remove the Tee cap! The stove pipe needs to be cleaned every time the chimney gets cleaned anyway. I don't understand how leaving the Tee cap off would be of any advantage if you are cleaning the entire system like it should be.

So, could I simply install some kind of cap without removing the entire liner by doing so through the hole the thimble goes into?
 
So, could I simply install some kind of cap without removing the entire liner by doing so through the hole the thimble goes into?
No, the cap is slightly larger diameter than the tee. webby knows from experience how to do this if no extension is being added. Though I would just brick the chimney back up The upper cleanout is not going to be that useful it seems to me.
 
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Okay. I'm going to seal up the clean out door and re-visit this issue when spring arrives.

There are a number of things I'm still questioning. Are many of you still on here during spring early summer for a follow up?

Many thanks to you all! I can't believe how much knowledge there is on here!
 
Though I would just brick the chimney back up The upper cleanout is not going to be that useful it seems to me
That's right. it's not useful. It's just quick, and brick and block are very hard to match.
 
That's right. it's not useful. It's just quick, and brick and block are very hard to match.

Just to be clear, the clean out door is below where the thimble is located. The SS liner extends past the Tee/thimble all the way to the basement floor about another 3 feet below the thimble opening. But, it is SS liner all the way to the basement floor clean out.
 
That doesn't show in the pictures. About how far above the cleanout door is the liner's end? Can you easily touch it?
 
That doesn't show in the pictures. About how far above the cleanout door is the liner's end?

Can you easily touch it?

The clean out door is about 3 feet BELOW the thimble. The liner seems to end only a matter of 6 inches from the bottom. I can touch the ribbed liner material. Photo should show what it looks like inside:

[Hearth.com] Chimney clean-out door whistles…  Is that ok?
 
Well, that changes things. I would just stuff some cerimac wool in the clean out door and seal it up. Each time it's cleaned the wool can be pulled out.
 
Rectangular liner I see. Looks nice and clean. Check with Rockford and see if they will sell the cap separately. Or seal the cleanout door with a silicone gasket and call it done for the season.

(broken image removed)
 
Well, that changes things. I would just stuff some cerimac wool in the clean out door and seal it up. Each time it's cleaned the wool can be pulled out.

Oh! So, you wouldn't pull the liner, put a Tee cap on and stuff?

I don't know what ceramic wool is but I'll get some from the hardware store. I'm assuming that it will not catch fire if hot creosote lands upon it? And finally, will any form of silicone caulking work? Meaning, is there special silicone caulk for this kind of thing?
 
It won't burn
Regular silicone is fine, get black for looks.
I would not pull that liner for any reason, no reason to. And it's not physically possible without a winch at the top.
 
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if the Op can reach the bottom of the liner the simple cure would be as above , order the cap if possible (im sure it is) once its sealed at the bottom of the liner the clean out door wont matter. would be a simple matter of popping off the cap when cleaning is done remove the ash at the cleanout door and reseat the cap at the bottom of the liner,

having the liner run so far down below the thimble is a great stroke of luck
 
It won't burn
Regular silicone is fine, get black for looks.
I would not pull that liner for any reason, no reason to. And it's not physically possible without a winch at the top.
Won't ceramic or roxul still leak air? If so I don't see how stuffing it in there is going to make a big difference. To me it seems like all he needs to do is seal the cleanout door by making a silicone gasket.

If you want to try a cap, Rockford has them for rectangular tees.
http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/
 
Won't ceramic or roxul still leak air? If so I don't see how stuffing it in there is going to make a big difference. To me it seems like all he needs to do is seal the cleanout door by making a silicone gasket.

If you want to try a cap, Rockford has them for rectangular tees.
http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/
Just thought it be a good back up, if there was any future leaks it would slow it down tremendously.
 
packing with roxul will help, but its not likely going to be airtight, sealing the cleanout door is the easy solution I've done it with clay lined chimneys in the past with nothing more than the weather stripping you slam in your window sashes to seal under them. its cheap and it works fine , comes with an adhesive backing. putting a cap on the bottom of the liner is the "letter perfect" solution at least its the intended way to do it. this way there is no possible way for unheated air to get in to the liner itself. now if the liner passes through a sealed top plate just sealing the cleanout door would do exactly the same thing, but if the top plate is not sealed then there is still potential to pull cold air in at the top which could cool off the liner up in the top of the flue
 
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That looks like an 8"x12" heavy wall liner. I really doubt that cap will fit through the clean out door. It will if you take the door frame off though.
 
Hello members,

Well, I've done the simple fix of sealing the clean out door with silicone caulk and it seems to be doing the trick. Easy enough I guess! Now, anytime I need to get in there, all I need to do is reseal it up. But I can't see many reasons to do that more than once a year - during chimney sweeping time.

Some of you commented about my chimney liner being rectangular… Is that a good thing? Rare?

As it turns out, sealing that leak in the clean out gave rise to a new whistling leak at the connector pipe elbow (adj elbow) as well as a very very slight (like faint) one somewhere related to the glass on the door. I've already confirmed with a paper test that it isn't the door gasket - actually ripped 2 dollars trying to pull them out.

I'll start a new thread about these issues…

Thank you all greatly! This place is such a valuable resource!
 
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