thinkxingu said:
I don't know "how" or "why." But I do know that I have an 18" bar on my 290 and it loses nothing when running a skip tooth.
Chain saw recommendation (Stihl)
- Thread starter heffergm
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
I don't know "how" or "why." But I do know that I have an 18" bar on my 290 and it loses nothing when running a skip tooth.
Having fewer cutters in the wood at one time means there is more horsepower per cutter so unless you have more horses than you need, it helps.
There's full skip, half-skip and standard chains. The less cutters on a chain, the less drag on the chain as it goes through the log, the higher the chain speed....on a pro saw running 12000 plus rpm, you can lose a few thousand rpm and not notice it by feel or sound.
As a bar gets longer the more pronounced it becomes, assuming your using the length of the bar...on a 24" bar you won't notice it cutting through and 8" limb, but will cutting through a 20" trunk.
As a bar gets longer the more pronounced it becomes, assuming your using the length of the bar...on a 24" bar you won't notice it cutting through and 8" limb, but will cutting through a 20" trunk.
dogsluvtrux said:
I dunno about any of that. What I do know is that my saw cuts just as fast with a skip tooth chain.
All this jive about "pro" saws when the OP is cutting 3 cords of small diameter wood per year and is currently cutting with box store junk. The only thing you'll notice (the OP) is that the pro saw has a white handle (gotta fix your avatar saxman) and costs nearly twice as much.
After you get your 290 you can then swap chains around and enjoy further obsession issues. I use skip chain too.
Oh and I love my full case. I went out and bought it special because I wanted it so bad. It allows me to store the saw without it being coated in dirt and grime from the barn dust. Also, I can set it inside the truck and the fumes and drips are contained. Maybe it just depends on how/if you take care of your equipment.
After you get your 290 you can then swap chains around and enjoy further obsession issues. I use skip chain too.
Oh and I love my full case. I went out and bought it special because I wanted it so bad. It allows me to store the saw without it being coated in dirt and grime from the barn dust. Also, I can set it inside the truck and the fumes and drips are contained. Maybe it just depends on how/if you take care of your equipment.
I have about 2 months on my 290. Have both the safety chain and the semi. The Semi works better but the safety chain is just fine for me too. I have a 20" bar on it. When I pull out my old Husky it feels like I have a toy in my hands after using the 290.
I figured I should close this out as I bought my saw.... and the verdict is: 260 pro. I looked at it and the 290. Aside from the 260 clearly being a level above in terms of construction (which is no way a shot against the 290) the main consideration for me was the size and weight. I only weigh a buck 35 myself, so the 290 was just a bit much. Thanks for all the recommendations!
List. I think it was $520 all said and done. Given that it was only $160 more than the 290 I felt somewhat justified. At least that's what I told my wife.
Just for consideration, I don't like my tool-less tensioner. I have had it about a year now, thought if I gave it time it would grow on me, but I don't like it and am going to switch it out soon, (when I find a free, or very cheep way of doing it).
At least one guy has gone for the 361. I love it. No matter what, do not go with the easy chain adjuster, from what I've seen and heard, they can break at the worst time. Two nuts isn't that bad. Learn how to use that and you will be good to go. Had a friend who was dead set on a 390, talked him into a 361 and he is very happy. Lighter saw, pro model, more HP for a small upcost. These will pay for themselves over the course of a 10 year lifespan.
Hope this helps a bit.
Chad
Hope this helps a bit.
Chad
I do have to say, the safety chain sucks. If anything it seems worse than the standard Oregon safety chain I have on my Poulan. Full chisel is on the way....
Chad,
I've been looking at the 390 and 361--you mention a small upcost, but I've received prices of $450 and $660, which is 50% more. Are these prices not right?
S
I've been looking at the 390 and 361--you mention a small upcost, but I've received prices of $450 and $660, which is 50% more. Are these prices not right?
S
heffergm said:
I have the 260 pro too and I like it a lot. In fact, the more I use it, the more I like it. My dealer was a little cheaper, got it for $460 out the door.
heffergm said:
Great saw! Run Stihl Ultra and 93 in it and it may be the last saw you ever have to buy.
heffergm said:
I shouldn't have slagged the safety chain so badly. I decided to practice some sharpening on it and the rakers were all high. I suspect when I try using it again it will be quite a bit better.
HittinSteel said:
Yes on the high octane---No on the Ultra. The Ultra is a fully synthetic and works great in the 4-mix engines. The older style chain saws (including the 260Pro) should run the High Performance synthetic blend.
It sounds a little strange, but the Ultra burns too clean. It doesn't leave any ash when it burns. Those older engines need the ash for lubrication as well as the oil/fuel mix...One of the issues with ethanol is that it cleans all of the ash out of the engines along with destroying the lubrication of the oil in the mix.
- Status
Similar threads
